Worldwide Wilbur

10 Amazing Things To Do in Lanai will get you on board the ferry from Maui, into the seat of a 4×4 jeep tour, underwater snorkeling with dolphins, and exploring isolated beaches and WWII shipwrecks.

by Worldwide Wilbur June 2019

As a longtime Maui resident, and a frequent visitor to Lanai, I have explored all over this beautiful island.  I’ve narrowed things down to the ten most amazing things to do in Lanai, and share them below.  But first, let’s learn some facts about this unique Hawaiian island.

Who Owns Lanai?

Can you imagine what it would be like to own a Hawaiian island? Just ask Larry Ellison. The founder of Oracle, and seventh richest man in the world, bought 97% of the island of Lanai for the bargain price of 300 million dollars in 2012. Larry now owns both of the Four Seasons Resorts, a championship golf course, and more than 88,000 acres of land.

You might not be a billionaire in a position to buy an island, but you are more than welcome to visit his. Lovely Lanai, “The Pineapple Island” is open for business. It offers some of the most high-end luxury vacation opportunities in all of Hawaii. Bill Gates famously rented out every room on the island and every helicopter on Maui to ensure privacy at his 1994 wedding. And, with a little planning, it is possible to enjoy a budget visit as well. I’ll show you what to see and do, and how to afford a weekend on Lanai.

How big is Lanai?

Lanai is the 6th largest of the main Hawaiian islands, just behind Molokai, with 140 square miles.  You could fit 28 Lanai’s into the Big Island of Hawaii!   It has just 3100 people, nearly all of whom live in little Lanai City in the center of the island.  It has a high school, a small hospital, but no stoplights.

The island has been populated by the Hawaiian people for over a thousand years.  The first Europeans sighted it in 1779.  Soon after, European, American, and Asian people came to Lanai to farm and serve as missionaries.  In 1922, James Dole, President of Dole Pineapple Company, bought the island for just over one million dollars.  For 70 years it became one of the largest pineapple plantations in the world, garnering the name “The Pineapple Island”.  The plantations last harvest ended in 1992, and tourism has been the mainstay of the economy ever since.

10 Amazing Things To Do in Lanai:

#1 Go Off-Road on a 4×4 Jeep Tour

Some of the best sights of Lanai simply can’t be reached by car. You need to get off the pavement and onto the dirt with a jeep. Then you can see the Garden of the Gods, a strangely beautiful land of colorful rock formations, the Munro Trail Lookout, where you can see breathtaking views of deep canyons, and Shipwreck Beach, with its wreckage of a massive World War II fuel tanker, and nearby ancient petroglyphs.  Wildlife abounds on Lanai, as you might spot axis deer, wild turkey, pheasant, as well as corrals of horses, goats, and sheep.

Expeditions Ferry offers a full-day guided jeep tour, including ferry service from Lahaina Maui. You’ll get to all the above spots, as well as visiting Hulopo’e Beach, the Four Seasons Manele Bay, Lanai City, and The Lodge at Koele.

#2 Snorkel with Dolphins at Hulopoe Beach

It takes a lot of patience and some luck, but it can be done. A pod of little spinner dolphins cruises back and forth along the Hulopoe Bay each day. If you are willing to sit with snorkel mask and fins in hand, and eyes on the horizon, you just might get to meet them. You’ll have to dash into the water and head for where they will be, not where they are, cause they swim a LOT faster than you. You won’t be able to catch them, and even if you could it is illegal to “harass” dolphins. But if you get close enough they’ll see you, and if they are in the mood, they’ll pop over to say hello. That moment a fellow mammal looks you straight in the eye…is magical.

Even if you don’t get to meet a dolphin, Hulopoe Beach is a wonderfully scenic location to hang out, swim, snorkel, and have a barbeque. The waves are calmest in summer, which is the best time for both swimming and snorkeling. The beach is just about perfect, and consistently ranks among the top ten beaches in Hawaii.

#3 Explore the Garden of the Gods

Don’t expect any actual “gardens” here. Instead you’ll be seeing big boulders, reddish orange sand, and outstanding views of Molokai.  At sunset the colors morph into a landscape not unlike Mars. Best reached on foot, mountain bike, or a 4×4 jeep.

#4 Pet a Kitty at the Lanai Cat Sanctuary

The Lanai Cat Sanctuary houses, feeds, spays and neuters over 600 cats! Their hard work has saved the lives of hundreds of feral cats as well as the endangered shorebird population of Lanai. Come spend some time with a kitty, and maybe even take one home. Entry is free, donations accepted. Open every day 10am to 3pm. Located out by the airport.

#5 Hike out to Shipwreck Beach

This is one of the most unique things to do in Lanai, because there are no other Hawaiian islands with major shipwrecks onshore.  Way over on a deserted northeast beach, lies a massive 365 foot WWII tanker beached on the reef just 200 meters offshore. The YOGN-42, a WWII U.S. Navy fuel tanker made of iron and cement, was intentionally scuttled here in 1954. It was taking up space in Pearl Harbor, so the Navy hired a contractor to tow it to the empty coast of Lanai and leave it. 65 years later, it sits still slowly rusting away. And, this is just one of several wrecks along this six-mile long beach. Further along lies the YO-21, a Navy oiler that was present in Pearl Harbor the day of the Japanese attack.

It takes 30 minutes to get here from Lanai City. Take highway 430 out of town. At the sign, turn left onto the dirt road. Park at the end of the dirt road, then walk heading left on the beach. Walk about 10 minutes on the beach and you can view the YOGN-42. A jeep will get you right to the beach. A car will have to be left on the highway, and adds to your hike.

#6 Hike, Bike, or 4×4 the Munro Trail

This is the top choice for active things to do in Lanai.  Starting from Lanai City, this 12.8 mile dirt path/road will take you to Lanai’s highest point, Mount Lanaihale an inactive volcano at 3,366 feet, where (on a clear day) you can see six Hawaiian Islands at once (Lanai, Maui, Molokai, Kahoolawe, Oahu, Hawaii). The views of forests and canyons, towering pines, and white sand beaches are amazing. It can be hiked or mountain biked. Start early. Bring water, a jacket, sunscreen, and a camera. If it has rained recently, it might not be so fun.

Start in Lanai City and head north on Hwy 44. A mile past the Four Seasons Koele, turn right onto the paved road that ends in half a mile at the island’s cemetery. The Munro Trail starts at the end of the road on the left.  The only sign you’ll see is the little one pictured above.

After a long climb, the main trail descends 6 miles to the central plateau. Keep the hills to your left and turn right at the big fork in the road. The trail ends back on Manele Rd (Hwy 440) between Lanaʻi City and Manele Bay. From here you can easily walk downhill a couple of miles to Hulopoe Beach. If you are heading back towards Lanai City, it’s an uphill 5 miles, so maybe walk with your thumb out for a ride.

#7 Venture out to Polihua Beach

This remote two-mile long beach on the desolate north shore is stunningly beautiful. You’ll need a 4×4 vehicle to get there, but the views of Molokai and the solitude make up for the effort. Here you can experience what Hawaii looked like when the first Polynesian sailors arrived hundreds of years ago.

Polihua is 12 miles north of Dole Park in Lanai City. You’ll need a 4×4 jeep or a mountain bike to get there. Head north on Keomuku Hwy. At 1 mile, turn left on Kanepuu hwy, which becomes Awalua hwy, which becomes Polihua rd, which becomes Polihua Trail. You’ll pass the Garden of the Gods along this trail as well. If you are biking, it’s easy on the way out as you drop 1700 feet elevation. Save some energy for the uphill slog back.

#8 Tee off at the Manele Golf Course

Jack Nicklaus designed this stunning seaside 18 hole course formerly known as “The Challenge at Manele”. Lush vegetation, ocean cliffs, and excellent service define this course as one of the best in the world.  Bill Gates got married at the 12th hole tee-box.  Open 730am – 6pm. The only other golf course on Lanai, “The Experience at Koele” has closed permanently.

#9  Appreciate Fine Art at the Mike Carroll Gallery.

This gallery features the beautiful work of Mike Carroll, as well as other local and mainland artists works that feature Lanai.  They also have locally made hand-carved jewelry.  Open 10-5:30 Mon-Sat

#10 Stroll around Lanai City

The best cultural experience of all the things to do in Lanai is to simply visit its only town, and see how people live.  Located in the center of the island, Lanai City is a cool reprieve from the scorching beach. It sits among the shade of towering Cook pines, at 1700 feet of elevation, and feels more like a small town in the Pacific Northwest than a tropical island. It seldom gets much over 80 degrees here, and 50’s are common on winter nights. With only 3000 people, all of its sights are within walking distance, clustered around the grassy open space of Dole Park. While you are there, be sure to:

• Learn about the history of this island at the Lanai Culture and Heritage Center. Open 8:30-3:30 Mon-Fri.

• Do some Hawaiian-style clothes shopping in The Local Gentry. Open 10-6.

• Create something new, or buy a local artists work at the Lanai Art Center

• Get all your gifts for back home at Lanai Hula Hut. 

• Sit under a majestic Cook Pine in Dole Park and watch the clouds drift by.

• Catch a movie at the Hale Keaka Lanai Theater  The historic theater had been shut down since the 1970’s and was just recently restored.
• And beyond all these shops, there are also wonderful athletic facilities open to the public just next to Dole Park.  You’ll find a swimming pool, basketball court, volleyball court, baseball field, soccer/football field, and tennis courts.  Everything is in like-new condition.

Things to do On Lanai – Know Before You Go:

Backpacker Daily Budget:

$78. Lanai is not cheap by any means. The only way to see it on a backpacker budget is by travelling in a group of four, splitting camping fees and car rental. Four people camping at Hulopoe Beach would be $20 per-person per-day. Splitting a rental car will run $25 per-person per-day, plus another $4 for gas. Bring your eggs and dinner cookout supplies from Costco for $10, get a sandwich at Blue Ginger Cafe for lunch in Lanai City for $8. Three beers will run you $12 at Pele’s Other Garden. Entry to all the best natural sites in Lanai are free.

More Budget Tips:

• Instead of renting a car, consider riding a mountain bike. There is no bike rental on island, but you can rent one on Maui and take a bicycle on the Expeditions Ferry for just $10 each way. I brought mine over, and rode it all over the island. You’ll have to be reasonably fit, because the initial climb out of Hulopoe Bay is no joke.  It starts with a back-breaking 1500 foot ascent in just the first 3.2 miles!  If you can survive that, it’s a more mellow 250ft of climbing over the next 4.8 miles to Lanai City.   From Lanai City the ride out to Garden of the Gods isn’t too tough, about 10 miles roundtrip, with only one tough hill by the Lanai Ranch.  But if you ride down to Shipwreck Beach or Polihua Beach, you’ll have to make a massive 1900ft climb a second time on the way back. Biking on Lanai is sooooo much fun. Well marked trails, dirt roads, no traffic.
• Bring all your food and drinks from Costco on Maui. It will be half the price of whatever you can get on Lanai.  The ferry allows large rolling coolers.

Cheap Beer Index:

$4 for a bottle of Bud Lite at Pele’s Other Garden.

Best Time to Visit Lanai:

Anytime is a good time to visit. Lanai has warm weather year round. In my opinion, the best time is January through March for low humidity, and the chance to see whales. But it really depends on your plans:

• The temperature hardly changes. The hottest month is August with highs of 86 and lows of 74. The coolest month is February at 79 and 66.
• Humidity does change: August is the worst at 85% humidity. February and March are the best with low humidity at around 25%. If you like sunny, but not muggy, choose winter.
• Rainfall varies quite a bit. The driest month is June with only 0.5 of an inch. The “wet season” is December through April 15 with averages between 2 and 2.5 inches per month. This isn’t really very much rain, but it is possible to get a week where it rains every single day in these months, particularly January and February.
• Ocean temperatures vary by 5 degrees, peaking at 80 in September, and bottoming out at 75 in March. Visitors will probably judge the ocean to be plenty warm anytime, but as a local, I find it very chilly in March and nice in September. If you plan to spend a lot of time in the water, for snorkeling or SCUBA diving, August-September-October might be the best for you.
• Humpback whales visit in the winter, with peak whale density from January 15 to March 31. You can possibly see one or two as early as October, and as late as May. If you are going on a whale watch, February and March are perfect.
• Surf swells change seasonally. But, Lanai isn’t a good place for surfing anyway.
• Price of accommodations change dramatically throughout the year. Rates peak the week between Christmas and New Year, when every single room on the island is sold out. Room rates are at their lowest in September and October. A typical AirBnB that goes for $300 in January, might be only $200 in October.

What languages are spoken on Lanai?

Everyone speaks English cause Hawaii really is part of the USA. However, folks who grew up here will speak Hawaiian Pidgin to each other. Shoots Brah!

Do you need a U.S. visa?

Americans obviously do not need any papers to come to the 50th state. Canadian visitors do not need a visa, and can stay for 182 days out of a year. AUS and UK visitors need to complete an Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA) before arrival, and then get 90 days to visit.

How to Get to Lanai:

The Ferry from Maui to Lanai:

Expeditions Ferry runs the Lanai ferry from the public dock in Lahaina, Maui to Manele Harbor, Lanai.  The dock is directly in front of the Pioneer Inn on Front Street.  It’s a passenger ferry only, no cars.  Adult tickets are $30 each way, and kids age 2-11 are $20 each way. Under 2’s are free.  You should book online ahead of time as it can sell out.

The ride is usually smooth and takes 45-50 minutes. The ship has air conditioned, plush indoor seating, as well as outdoor seating mostly in the sun on the upper deck.  You have to drag on your own stuff, and there is plenty of room to store it all on racks.  There are bathrooms onboard, and they sell water and soda.  Alcohol cannot be consumed onboard.  If you go between December and March, it’s like getting a free whale watch thrown in! Although, the captains job is to get you across the channel quickly, so he’s not going to stop unless the whale is in the boats path.

PRO TIP: Get to the ferry dock early, because parking is AWWWWWWWFUL in Lahaina. If you have 20 minutes to spare, you can drive around in expanding concentric circles until you find a free parking spot on a distant side road. It might pay off to stalk a tourist walking with big shopping bags. If you show up right before departure, you’ll be stuck parking in one of the overpriced lots by the dock for $10+ per day.

Maui to Lanai Ferry Schedule:

• Ferry from Maui to Lanai at: 6:45am, 9:15am, 12:45pm, 3:15pm, 5:45pm. Tickets are $28.85 adults, $19.23 kids 2-11.
• Ferry from Lanai to Maui at: 8:00am, 10:30am, 2:00pm, 4:30pm, 6:45pm. Tickets are $28.85 adults, $19.23 kids 2-11.

From Manele harbor on Lanai it is 15 minutes by car to Lanai City, and only 3 minutes to the Four Seasons Lanai.  You can easily walk to Hulopoe Bay for the beach or the campground.

Flights to Lanai:

The only airport is Lanai Airport (LNY). It is located in the center of the island, 4 miles away from Lanai City. All flights to Lanai Airport are turbo-prop aircraft. No jet planes land here. Flights to Lanai Airport arrive from just two destinations on two airlines:

• Honolulu (Oahu)- Ohana by Hawaiian starting at $138 round-trip. They fly big twin turbo-prop planes.
• Kahului (Maui) –Mokulele starting at $118 round-trip.  Mokulele flies tiny single-engine nine-seater planes. Window seat guaranteed.

From the airport it is 10 minutes by car to Lanai City, and 25 minutes to the Four Seasons Lanai/Manele Bay.

How to Get Around Lanai:

Getting around Lanai is expensive. All car rentals are 2-3 times what you would pay on the mainland. But, if you want to explore the island, you’ll need to rent a car on Lanai, ideally a 4×4 jeep. Only 30 of the islands 400 miles of roads are paved. The paved roads are in good shape, and with only three main roads that all lead to Lanai City, you can’t really get lost on this small island. Oh, and be forewarned that there is only one gas station, and gas is around $4.70 a gallon!

Be careful when booking a car with an internet booking site. There are NO NATIONAL CHAIN CAR RENTALS on Lanai. Dollar Rent A Car closed down in 2018. Most of these sites have no common sense built in, and will show you available cars FROM ANOTHER ISLAND! Yep. If you aren’t paying attention, you might end up booking a car, just 10 miles away ON MAUI! Whoops!

Lanai Car Rental:

Here is EVERY car rental option on Lanai, listed from most expensive to least expensive:

• If you plan to arrive by ferry, and want to rent a 4×4 jeep, Expeditions Ferry offers a combo roundtrip ferry ticket and full-day jeep rental for $300. This is the most convenient option for getting around, as they whisk you right from the ferry, to the car lot, and put you in a jeep, which can go anywhere.
• Lanai Cheap Jeeps has a hilariously unreadable website and rents Jeeps for $196 a day, and Subaru Crosstreks for $175 a day.
• 808 Day Trip has on-road vehicles only, with SUV’s for $155 a day, and hatchbacks for $135. They deliver to the airport or ferry for free.
• ABB Auto Rentals has 4-door jeeps for $190 a day, and 2-door jeeps for $155 a day. They also have regular (non off-road) vehicles for $124 a day. They list right in their rental rules that they discriminate against campers, and will only rent to the rich and famous staying at the Four Seasons or Hotel Lanai.
• Turo – is a another pricey option for Lanai. I found a few vans and jeeps starting at $128 a day, with pickup/drop-off at Lanai Airport or the boat harbor. If you have never used Turo before, click HERE for $25 off your first rental.
• Lanai Car Rental has a fleet that includes the all-electric and compact Chevy Bolt for $95, the four-wheel drive Jeep Wrangler Sahara for $195, and the Ford Transit minivan capable of transporting up to seven passengers for $155. They knock $20 off all those rates for Kama’aina (Hawaii residents). They do NOT deliver to the airport or harbor. You’ll have to take a taxi to their Lanai City location.

If you are staying at the Four Seasons (either Manele Bay or Lodge at Koele) you can use the Lanai City Shuttle. They go to and from the airport – Lanai City – Four Seasons Koele – Four Seasons Lanai – ferry boat harbor for a $10 (cash only) fee per-person per-way. They arrive at every ferry landing 7 days a week.

If you are really adventurous, and um…cheap, you could attempt to get around solely by the free MEO Bus. This single bus goes back and forth around the island.

There is no Uber or Lyft on Lanai.

There are a couple of taxi services. Arrange rides a day in advance to ensure pick-up.

• Rabaca’s Limousine Service at 808-565-6670

• Lanai Taxi Service at 808-649-0808

Stay Connected:

There is nowhere to buy a SIM card on Lanai. You should sort this out in either Maui or Oahu before you arrive. Cell phone coverage on Lanai is pretty good.  I had strong service at Manele Bay, of course in Lanai City, and even way out at Garden of the Gods I could get a signal on high points.

Where to Stay on Lanai?

Your choices for accommodations are pretty slim on Lanai. It’s either camping for $80 a night, an AirBnB for $225-300 a night, the Hotel Lanai at $300 a night, or the Four Seasons Lanai at $1000 a night. That is literally all there is.

Camping on Lanai:

There is one campground on Lanai; Hulopoe Beach Park is an absolutely fabulous white sand beach on the south shore of Lanai. It is great for swimming and snorkeling. A pod of spinner dolphins stop by at least a couple of times a day. The Four Seasons Lanai is right next door, and if you camp here you’ll get to enjoy seeing the unwashed masses hobnob with the upper crust staying just 100 meters away for twelve times the price.

There are eight campsites on the grassy area set back from the beach, and up to four people are allowed at each site. There are two very nice public bathrooms, cold water showers, barbecue grills, and picnic tables. Hulopoe is a privately owned campground, and the cost to stay here (for non-Lanai residents) is an outrageously expensive $80 per night, per permit. You can stay a maximum of three nights. I’m wondering if Pulama Lanai does not really want campers, and are just having a laugh seeing how high they can raise the fee before people stop coming? But at the same time, bless their heart for keeping this campsite open, as there is nowhere else even remotely affordable near the beach on Lanai.

The beach park is packed and busy on weekends.  While you have to pay $80 to camp back in the grass, Lanai residents can camp right on the beach for FREE, and on weekends they camp in multiple packs of a dozen tents and boom-boxes and inflatable beach toys.  During the week, you’ll find the beach to be much quieter.

To book a campsite, you must email info@lanaibeachpark.com with the following information:

• Contact person name, phone number, and email address
• Dates requested (3 nights maximum)
• Names of all campers in your group
• Travel itinerary (i.e., dates, and times of arrival and departure, and whether traveling by plane or ferry)

Getting to Hulopoe Beach is an easy half-mile walk from Manele boat harbor.  There is the Manele General Store (open 7am to 7pm weekdays, til 4pm Sundays) at the boat harbor if you forget anything, or need to restock beer and ice.

Hotels on Lanai:

This is an easy section to write. There are only TWO HOTELS on all of Lanai at the moment.  The third hotel will be priced in the grand-a-night range when it opens in 2019 or 2020.

• Hotel Lanai – Rooms starting at $300 a night.  Located right in Lanai City, it has a casual elegance and all-around comfiness to it.  Lots of tall pines shade the grounds, and it is a relaxing place to stay and be part of the Lanai community.  It’s the oldest hotel on the island, built in 1923 by the Dole Company, and it was the only hotel on Lanai until 1990.

• Four Seasons Resort Lanai – Rooms starting at $1000 a night.  Clearly one of the finest places to stay in all of Hawaii, the Four Seasons combines service and luxury with a peaceful view over Manele Bay.  The newly re-designed pool is a fabulous rock garden full of little waterfalls, multiple small pools and hot tubs, and foliage covered private nooks to lounge in and feel like you are the only ones there.  Mr. Ellison has invested over 450 million into remodeling the resort.
• Four Seasons Lanai at Koele – In the cool air just above Lanai City, this equally luxurious retreat has just re-opened after 4 years of renovations.  Rooms start at $1000 a night with a three night minimum.

Lanai Condo Rentals: There are no condos on Lanai. None. Zero.

AirBnB on Lanai: There are only a half-dozen home rentals in Lanai City on AirBnB. The cheapest one is a small plantation house going for $225 a night. There is also a room in a B&B for $224 a night. There are no privately owned homes or condos anywhere else on the island outside Lanai City.

Best Restaurants in Lanai:

You can get five-star dining at the Four Seasons Lanai (at 10 star prices). Or, you can venture into Lanai City and get good food at normal (for Hawaii) prices. Here are some of the best places:

Lanai City Restaurants:

• Pele’s Other Garden – A popular and reasonably priced spot for pizza and beer. Serving cold sandwiches for $11, hot sandwiches for $12, and pizza starting at $11. Beers are $5. Open Mon-Fri 11am to 9pm, Sat 430pm-8pm, Closed Sun.

• Café 565 – Burgers, plate lunch and Asian local favorites all in the $8-10 range.  I can recommend their specialty, the Korean chicken wings.  Sometimes the only place open in Lanai City in the afternoon.

• Blue Ginger Café – Another great budget dining option on Lanai. You can get burgers and sandwiches mostly in the $10 range, and they have a full breakfast menu. I enjoyed a simple bacon, egg and cheese sandwich for $7.50.  Open 6am to 8pm Thurs-Fri-Sat-Sun-Mon. 6am to 2pm Tues and Wed.
• Coffee Works – Serving up the best coffee on Lanai.  You’ll have to know where to look, cause it’s a block off of Dole Park, right behind the Blue Ginger Café.

• Lanai City Service / The Plantation Deli – Great deli style sandwiches for $9-10.  Don’t be put off by it’s combo deli/gas station location.

• Lanai City Bar & Grille This restaurant and bar in the Hotel Lanai, is undoubtedly THE fine dining option in Lanai City. Entrees from $18-38. Live music on weekends. Open 5pm to 10pm Tues-Sat, 10-2 Sunday, Closed Monday

• Richard’s Market – If you are just looking for some sandwiches to go, or groceries and liquor, this newly renovated market is stocked with everything you could want.  It’s like a little Whole Foods in Lanai!

At the Four Seasons Lanai:

• Views at Manele Golf Course – The um…views are indeed fantastic here, and the prices are a tad cheaper than the other Four Seasons eateries. Sandwiches and salads in the $24-34 range.
• One Forty – Steak and Seafood.
• Malibu Farm – Brunch and Lunch spot with entrees in the $25-50 range. Try the Poke Ceviche.
• The Sports Bar & Grill – The most low-key of the resorts eateries. Burgers and Pizza for $25-29, Entrees for $34-42. Open 11am to 11pm.
• Nobu Lanai – The signature restaurant of the island. Take out a second mortgage before sitting down.

Nightlife on Lanai:

There’s only a handful of options, and most everything closes up early.

• The Sports Bar & Grill (at Four Seasons Lanai)
• Lanai City Bar & Grille (at the Hotel Lanai) stays open til 11pm on Friday and Saturday, and has live music those nights.

Get a Guidebook:

I am unimpressed by the available print and eBook guidebooks to Lanai. Things change, restaurants come and go, and no print guidebook is going to beat the up-to-date information I’ve researched and listed here. But, there is one guide to Lanai that I do recommend:

Lanai Map – Franko’s Lanai Guide Waterproof Map is an invaluable resource for the off-grid adventurer. If you plan to bike and hike or even drive off-road around Lanai, this map will “fill in the blanks” that may show up as empty spaces on Google Maps.

What to Pack:

The basics are available on Lanai, but not at Amazon or Walmart prices. You are far better off bringing with you quality gear at mainland prices. You also don’t want to be spending your limited vacation time searching for the right stuff. Here is what I use, and recommend you bring to Lanai:

Snorkel, Mask and Fins – The Cressi Palau Short Fins provide a mask with a great fit for all faces, durable quality, and great fins that aren’t so long you fall on your face trying to exit the water. The best snorkeling package value. You’ll need this to see all the fishies in Hulopoe Bay

Travel Towel – The PackTowl Personal Microfiber towel is the best travel towel there is. It’s comfortable, quick-drying, lightweight, and packs down to the size of a paperback book. Comes in four sizes and eleven colors. I have the largest size “Beach” at 36 x 59 inches in Blueberry. Get this towel, and avoid having to buy a crappy convenience store “ALOHA” towel for $29.95 that you’ll never use again.

Reef Safe Sunscreen – Effective January 1, 2021 the State of Hawaii has banned all non reef-safe sunscreens from sale in the islands. Why not get ahead of the curve, and bring this excellent sunscreen with you? Thinksport SPF 50 rubs in easily and feels good on your skin. And you’re saving our coral reefs.

Sunhat – It’s pretty sunny on the south shores of Lanai, and you might want a decent hat to go with that reef-safe sunscreen. These Hemlock Hat Company wide brimmed straw hats are what all the cool kids are wearing at the beach these days. I have the “Bandit” color.

While these items are of particular importance to make the most of your visit to Lanai, it would be worth checking out my Ultimate Travel Packing List that covers everything you might need for your trip.

Is Lanai Safe?

It’s got to be one of the safest places in America. For one thing, almost everyone on the island works for Pulama Lanai (Larry Ellison’s company) in some capacity. If you get in trouble, you get fired, and then you gotta move, because there are no other jobs. It’s a company town. But beyond that, Lanai people are just some of the nicest, friendliest folks you’ll meet in Hawaii. They have that small town kindness you’d expect to find in Iowa or Maine.  When I rode my bike around here, at least half the passing cars gave me a wave hello!  That doesn’t happen on Maui.

Years ago I managed to get a kiawe-thorn flat-tire on my scooter way out by Shipwreck Beach. At sunset. I was sadly pushing by moped up the forest road, mentally preparing to spend a miserable night, hungry and chilly, alone in the woods. Out of nowhere, a pickup truck appears. The guy was fishing, and he promptly lifted my scooter into the back. Not only did he go a half hour out of his way to drop me off at Hulopoe Beach, he also stopped at two different friends houses to see if they might have a patch kit. And he offered to come get me the next day to help me get the scooter back the boat harbor! That’s my enduring memory of the people on Lanai.

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“Sani Pass Tours to the Highest Pub in Africa” will take you up switchbacks to the Roof of Africa, to meet the Basotho people on the high plains of Lesotho.

As a dedicated passport stamper, I couldn’t possibly spend three weeks in South Africa without visiting the “Highest Pub in Africa” in its landlocked neighbor Lesotho (pronounced LEH-SOO-TOO).  When I say landlocked, I mean completely surrounded by South Africa. There are only three countries in the world that are encircled by another country: Lesotho, Vatican City, and San Marino.  So the only way to drive in is from South Africa, and the most fun way is up the Sani Pass Lesotho.

Some interesting Lesotho facts:

Why does Lesotho exist? What prevented it from being swallowed up by South Africa? It’s all due to the leadership of King Moshoeshoe, who expertly played off the British colonialists against the Dutch Boers, and the soundly defeated both parties in several mountain battles in the 1800s.

Lesotho’s lowest point of 1,400 meters (4,593 ft) is the “highest lowest-point” of any country in the world.

It the most ethnically homogenous nation in the world, as 99.7% of its population hail from the Basotho tribe.

Lesotho has a horrific 25% HIV rate, and the highest tuberculosis rate in the world, leading to extremely low life expectancy of 51 for men and 55 for women.

How do you get to the start of the Sani Pass Tours?

There are about ten border crossings to Lesotho in total, but only one provides a stunning journey up the side of the Drakensberg Mountains. This crossing just happens to be the closest border to Durban, the starting point of my journey. This would be the Sani Pass, a twisting dirt road built in the 1950s that rises from 5,000 feet to 9,436 feet over just 5.6 miles.  I opted to make the day trip from Durban in Kwazulu Natal.

South Africa allows only 4×4 vehicles past their border post, so I could either rent a (very expensive) 4×4 in Durban and do it all myself, or I could go with a tour company 4×4 and let someone more knowledgeable sweat the driving. I chose to go with Sani Pass Tours.com, the most well-known and highly rated outfit.

To get there, I rented a cheap compact car in Durban, and made a 6am departure to the small town of Underberg. It was a lovely drive through farmland and rolling hills, all of it on excellent roads.

I parked in the sleepy little town of Underberg, and had a coffee while I waited to meet up with the tour guide. Soon our group of a half-dozen settled into our big Landcruiser to begin the journey.

The Drakensberg plateau loomed over us, with grassy fields on both sides.

Border Crossing #1

Soon we reached the South African border post, which quickly stamped us all out of the country.

Then we began the serious part of the road, all of it in a no-man’s land between the two nations. Hairpin turn after hairpin turn brought us higher and higher. At particularly scenic drop-offs, the driver would let us out for photos. You can see the remains of vehicles that didn’t negotiate a turn properly.

We weren’t the only people on the route. There were a handful of other 4×4 Sani Pass tour groups. There was one slow-moving, nervous looking driver, in a personally owned 4×4.  Also, one barefoot man dressed in rags carrying firewood on his head. A couple of shepherds with serious looking sticks glared at us. A tiny two wheel drive compact car was abandoned, hopelessly mired in sand off the side of the road facing downhill. Two VERY impressive fully-laden cyclists were chugging upwards. If you want to attempt this on a bicycle, then read this account of the thrills of cycling one of the highest roads in Africa.

Be advised, the Lesotho side will let any vehicle attempt to drive down, but ascending cars and pack mules have the right of way.

At the summit, we took more photos and rejoiced at making it to the top and taking in the cool air.

Border Crossing #2

Lesotho passport control was easy and quick.  We were inside Lesotho!  We were thirsty for the Highest Pub in Africa, but we had another stop first.

Basotho Village

The next part of our Sani Pass tour was a touristy visit to a Basotho village. Of all the villages I have visited in Africa, this one was the most bleak. The village sits randomly in the middle of a high, windswept plateau. It is surrounded by nothing but rocks. No trees, no fruit or vegetable gardens, no obvious source of water even. Just stacked-rock round huts to shelter them from the constant cold wind.  No safari wildlife around either, nothing like in Kruger National Park a few hundred miles away.

We picked up a guide who took us inside a big makhoro (hut) where we could learn about the daily life of the Basotho. They are sheep and goat herders, and must trek into town to trade their flock for everything else they might need. Each shepherd carries an individually carved stick that acts as their identification. If a shepherd goes out to lead his flock to graze for months and never returns, eventually someone will find his stick next to his bones and be able to tell who he was. It sounds like a tough existence.

Outside the hut, the women of the village had on their best Basotho blankets, set out handicrafts we could buy, and performed a doleful clapping song. Meanwhile, the men stood and stared at us unsmiling from the shadows, all dressed in earth-toned blankets of brown and grey. I felt ashamed for the indignity of what their village had to do to survive. The men wanted no part of us, and the women had a palpable disdain for the wooden performance they had to trot out to tourists each day. In every culture in Africa, I always find that it is the women that go the extra mile to fend for their families, and Lesotho is no exception.

I got back in the truck immediately while the others perused the trinkets on offer, though no one bought anything. Everyone tipped our local guide, and I wondered how much of that made it to the villagers.

Sani Pass Tours – The Highest Pub in Africa

Next we were off to the Sani Mountain Lodge, a charming British colonial style outpost on the edge of the pass. It’s known for having “The Highest Pub in Africa”. We enjoyed beers and sandwiches by the fireplace, as fog settled in.

The drive back down was cheerful after our mountain beers, and passed by quickly with no photo stops. I got dropped off back at my rental car around 4pm, and started my 3 hour drive back to Durban. As soon as I got going, the skies darkened, opened up and began pouring sheets of rain.

If you drive on the highways of South Africa, you’ll see the craziest hitchhiking scene in all the world. For complicated reasons relating back to apartheid public planning, the black townships in the suburbs of major cities have no public transportation even to this day. People trying to get to work in the cities have no other option than to walk to the highways and beg for rides. It is not unusual to see a hundred men standing in the breakdown lane, all waving a 10 or 20 rand note in the air, offering to pay for a ride.

Now as a lone foreigner driving along, I’m too scared to let a bunch of guys I don’t know in my car. After all, this is not Kansas. South Africa has loads of violent crime including car jacking at knife or gunpoint. So every day, I pass by all these people. But on this day, under the pouring rain, I passed a line of older ladies looking for rides. Some combination of having had a beer, being bored of driving alone for hours on end, feeling sorry for these ladies getting soaked, and judging that they were unlikely to stab me, led me to pull over.

They ran up to my car, and peered in my window. When they saw I was a white guy they just stood and stared at me.

“Yes?” one said quizzically.

“You want rides right?” I replied.

“Oh. Yes, yes.”

They all climbed in. They didn’t make too much conversation, and we rode in silence for 20 minutes or so. They indicated where to drop them, and then offered me some rand notes, which I refused. It’s the strange little experiences like this that I enjoy so much in my travels.

Sani Pass Tours: Things to Know Before You Go:

Cheap Beer Index: $2.87

You can enjoy a 330ml Maluti for 40 rand at the Sani Mountain Lodge.

When to Visit Sani Pass:

The best time for Sani Pass Tours is summertime; November thru February can get over 70 degrees. Winters are chilly, it gets below freezing nightly in June and July, and ice could close the road.

What languages are spoken in Lesotho?

Basotho is the common language, but English is a common second language

Do you need a Lesotho visa?

No. USA, UK, AUS and CAN passport holders all get 14 days to visit visa-free. 14 days should be enough to visit every inch of this small country.

How you get to the starting point of Sani Pass Tours:

Tourist favorite Cape Town is a long, long way away from Lesotho.  Durban / Pietermaritzburg are the closest major cites, you can easily do day tours from either city. From Durban, head north on the N3 highway to R617 towards Sani Pass Road in Underberg. The drive takes less than 3 hours to Underberg/Himeville. If you have a 4×4, you can make it all the way to the top in 4 hours.

You can also continue on to the capitol of Lesotho. Maseru is six hours further northwest on good roads.  There are lots of Lesotho tours to join from there.

There are plans to pave the road all the way to the top in 2019 by a Chinese company. If you wait a year or ten, you might be able to drive up in any old vehicle.

You can do it yourself if you have a 4×4. Remember the border closes at 6pm. You should get a letter of authorization from the rental company stating they approve for you to bring the vehicle in Lesotho. You may need to show this when leaving SA.

I went with Sani Pass Tours.com. Their 8 hour Lesotho day trips include a comfortable 4×4 drive up and down the pass, a Basotho cultural village visit, and a stop for lunch at the Highest Pub in Africa (on your own $$) for $63.

What is Lesotho’s Currency?

The Lesotho Loti is kept at par with the South African Rand (14.4ZAR to $1USD) and are available at ATMs. Use em all up before you leave, as they won’t be accepted in South Africa. If you have Rand with you, just use them, they will be accepted everywhere.

Stay Connected in Lesotho:

I highly recommend that anyone planning to do a large amount of international travelling switch their service provider to Google Fi. Google Fi allows you to use your same data plan, at the same domestic usage price ($10 per GB, and data is free after 6GB) in 164 countries! With Google Fi, you don’t have to sign up for a pricey “International Plan”. And you don’t get worthless 2G data speeds internationally like T-Mobile’s “One”, you get data at whatever the top speed the local cell towers can offer. Google Fi does have coverage in Lesotho. If you sign up through my referral HERE, you’ll get $20 off your first bill, and I’ll get $20 off my next bill. Everybody wins!

If you don’t already have Google Fi, there are two mobile network operators in Lesotho:

• Vodacom Lesotho has 75% of subscribers. If you have a South African Vodacom SIM, you can roam in Lesotho for free. You can buy a pay as you go SIM card for less than $2 from many stores. You don’t need to register it. 1GB of data, good for one week, is M50 ($3.40)
• Econet (Ezi-Cel, by ETL) has 25% of subscribers. You can buy a pay as you go SIM card called Buddie or Libertie for free with a mandatory M 50 ($3.40) recharge. You don’t need to register it. 1.3GB of data, good for one week, is M50 ($3.40)

Sani Pass Hotels:

In Lesotho:

The Sani Stone Lodge has dorm room bunk beds for just $13 a night. They also have private rooms starting at $41. They have a restaurant onsite, and can arrange cultural tours, horseback riding, hiking and fishing.

The Sani Mountain Lodge allows camping (brrr) for $12, has bunk beds for $19, and private room rondavels starting at $119 a night.

In South Africa:

Sani Lodge Backpackers has bunk beds for $16 a night, and private rooms starting at $45 a night. They have a swimming pool, and herb garden, plush common areas, and get rave reviews. They can arrange your 4×4 drive up the pass.  This place looks a lot warmer and comfier than anywhere at the top of the pass.

Where to Eat:

The Sani Mountain Lodge has a monopoly on gastronomy and astronomy in the area, and serves tasty lunches and dinners.

Nightlife at Sani Pass:

The Highest Pub in Africa is the only bar for miles up in Lesotho. Remember, you are drinking at 9500 feet, so beers will hit you almost twice as hard. Go slow.

Down in South Africa, Sani Lodge Backpackers might have some folks tipping a few under the stars. Otherwise, you’d have to drive into Underberg, which isn’t the most hopping place anyway.

Get a Guidebook:

The Rough Guide to South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland is the best guide available. Much more informative, up-to-date, and accurate than Lonely Planet. I used it every day without fail in my three week road trip across all three countries.

What to Pack:

Bring warm clothes. If it is 80 degrees in Durban at sea level, it’s going to be no more than 50 at the Highest Pub in Africa. Check out my Worldwide Travel Packing List for the best travel gear for your adventures. I’ve already read all the online reviews, and tested it all out, so you can just click and buy the best stuff.

Is Lesotho Safe?

It’s very unlikely you’ll have problems with anyone in the area around Sani Pass. However, the capital city of Maseru has a high crime rate. Muggings occur frequently, and can be violent. Be careful walking around there in daytime, and don’t walk anywhere at night.

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“18 Amazing Things to Do in Molokai” takes you to the Kalaupapa leper colony, a scenic drive past ancient fishponds and historical churches, flying by 3000 foot sea cliffs, and to stunning sunsets on endless beaches.

by Worldwide Wilbur, June 2019

Why go to Molokai?

This gorgeous island lies untouched by mass tourism. It boasts Hawaii’s longest white sand beach. The tallest sea cliffs in the world are found along its north shore. Its barrier reef and black sand beaches offer pristine snorkeling. You can visit ancient heiau (temples) and rock fishponds built centuries ago. Molokai is the way Hawaii used to be.  18 Amazing Things to Do in Molokai Island will show you how to get to these special places found on no other island.  Go now, before its too late.

Where is Molokai?

Molokai, nicknamed “The Friendly Isle” is the fifth largest of the eight main Hawaiian islands, and is located just eight miles to the west of Maui and ten miles north of Lanai. It is 38 miles long from East to West, and only 10 miles wide North to South.

What is it like on Molokai?

Molokai has a very different vibe than its neighbors Maui and Lanai. While Maui and Lanai are both 100% geared around tourism, life in Molokai is not focused on tourism at all. There is no Hilton or Marriott, no Starbucks, no McDonalds, not even a stoplight!

Molokai is considered the “Most Hawaiian Island” because it has the largest percentage of Native Hawaiian residents in the state (excluding the tiny island of Ni’ihau). Over 45% of the islands residents are of native descent. Only 7000 people live on the island, with half of them located in sleepy Kaunakakai.

18 Amazing Things to do on Molokai:

#1 Fly into the Molokai Leper Colony:

What? A leper colony? In the USA in 2019??  Kalaupapa National Historical Park still houses a handful of elderly Hansen’s Disease patients, who choose to stay in the only home they have known for decades. From 1866 to 1969 this inescapable peninsula formed an open-air quarantine prison for sufferers of leprosy. You won’t actually get to meet them, but the fun and adventure is the exciting flight in, and the stunning views of 3,000 foot sea cliffs from the bottom. You’ll learn about the history of the colony, and in particular the selfless dedication of Father Damien.

You MUST sign up with a tour company, as no one is allowed entry to Kalaupapa without a permit.  And you must fly in, as there is currently no overland or sea access to this isolated peninsula.  Mokulele Airlines has a package tour that includes airfare from Maui, the permit, a day tour by bus around the peninsula to visit the historical sites, and get up close to the tallest sea cliffs on earth.  This is without a doubt the most popular of all the things to do in Molokai.

• Flights from Kahului – Central Maui
• Flights from Kapalua – West Maui

(The Kalaupapa Trail is closed “indefinitely” after a landslide destroyed the bridge on the trail’s second switchback in December of 2018. Massive reconstruction is needed to make the trail safe, and there is no timeline for completion. The Molokai Mule Ride and hiking down are not possible.  The only way to reach Kalaupapa now is by plane.  Again, you must have a permit to visit Kalaupapa, so don’t rush out to buy a plane ticket, sign up for a tour first.)

#2 Own the Sunset at Papohaku – The Best Beaches on Molokai.

If you have ever dreamt about having a golden sand Hawaiian beach all to yourself, this might be your chance.  Certainly one of the most relaxing things to do in Molokai.  The best of all Molokai beaches, Papohaku is a massive 3 miles long, and yet, on any given evening, you might have it all to yourself. It’s at the far western end of the island, far from the main town. As the beach faces west, you are in the perfect spot to watch the sun turn the sand from light gold to deep red as it dips into the Pacific.  Waves can be rough. Swimming is usually ok in summertime, particularly at that far right side of the beach, about a 10 minute walk from the beach park entrance.

You can also try these nearby beaches for swimming:

• Dixie Maru Beach (Kapukahehu Beach) at the far southwest end of Pohakuloa/Kaluakoi Road lies this tiny sheltered beach, good for swimming and sunsets.
• Kepuhi Bay Beach lies at the opposite side, just over Kaiaka Rock to the northeast of Papuhaku.
• Pohakumauliuli Beach is just further along past Kepuhi.

#3 Drive the Coastal Road to Halawa Valley.

This is the Molokai version of Maui’s “Road to Hana”.  Take all day to slowly drive eastbound for 28 miles on the scenic and historic Kamehameha V Highway. Stop at every fishpond and church to take a picture, and at every beach to jump in.  You’ll end up at breathtaking Halawa Valley, which could easily be a scene from Jurassic Park, with a couple waterfalls visible deep into the valley. Many of the best things to do in Molokai are along this road.  Here are the specific stops you’ll want to make:

• Kalokoeli Fishpond just east of town, is an excellent example of the 60 rock-wall fishponds along the south shore.  All were built hundreds of years ago by the first Hawaiians.  Many have been refurbished, and are still in use to catch fish with the outgoing tide.

• Hotel Molokai is immediately after the fishpond.  If you need a meal, this is the last good spot for a while.

• One Ali’i Beach Park is a big grassy space ringed by coconut palms where you could camp.

• Watch for Nene!  The Hawaiian goose is our state bird, and they nest along the road here.

• St Joseph Church was built by Father Damien in 1876.

• Our Lady of Sorrows Church was built by Father Damien in 1874.
• Iliiliopae Heiau is an ancient human sacrificial temple covering 38,000 square feet.  It’s near mile marker 15.  ( I couldn’t find it at my last trip, but you could ask for directions.)

• Mana’e Goods and Grindz  This is THE place to eat on the east side.  If you’re hungry, don’t pass it by.

• Murphy (Kumimi) Beach is one of the best places for Snorkeling on Molokai. A rocky formation called the Dragons Tail leads into the sea creating great snorkeling.  At mile maker 20.  After here, the road gets narrow and twisty.  Buckle up.

• Swim at Sandy Beach: This small white sand beach, located on the narrow road to Halawa Valley, has a protected reef that makes its waters calm.

• Swim at Halawa Beach Park.  There are two small beaches here, separated by a river entering the sea.  Restrooms and a shower available.

I did Halawa Valley road trip with my family in a rental car.  If you’d rather leave the driving and finding all these spots to someone else, Molokai Outdoors has a full day island tour that hits all these spots and more.  They’ll pick you up at the airport, and show you all the best things to do in Molokai.

#4 Slow Down. You On Molokai Now.

People take time to enjoy life on Molokai. You should too. If the car in front of you stops to have a chat with the Auntie in the other lane for a minute…you wait. Honking your horn in impatience is an unpardonable sin on Molokai. Take time to talk to the people who live here. They know a lot more about their island than this guide or any other. Open yourself to new experiences.  Stroll around sleepy Kaunakakai, just window shopping and taking in island life.

#5 Paddleboard or Kayak to the Barrier Reef.

The south shore of Molokai is fringed by the longest barrier reef in the USA. What this means for a visitor is that there aren’t many nice beaches on the south side, but more mangroves, seaweed, and silty, shallow, rocky shoreline. HOWEVER, if you climb in a kayak, it’s just a short paddle out to crystal blue water with excellent visibility!  This is one of the best adventurous things to do in Molokai.

Molokai Outdoors is a locally owned tour company that can get you out to the best part of reef safely on a half-day kayaking tour. You don’t want to go kayaking around outside the reef if you don’t know the area. If the wind kicks in, you might find yourself swept out to Australia!

#6 Mail a Coconut to Someone at Post A Nut Molokai.

At the Hoolehua Post Office (96729), you can actually mail a real coconut.  The postmaster keeps a pile of ’em ready to go, along with sharpies so you can decorate it with messages and artwork. The coconuts are FREE, but postage runs about $14-$17 depending on the weight of the nut.  Only open weekdays.  Certainly one of the most unique things to do in Molokai.

#7 Shop at the Saturday Farmers Market

From 7am until noonish, local farmers and crafts people bring their wares to town.  Get there early for the best fruits and veggies.  I was surprised with all the cool stuff for sale here.  My family bought hand-carved necklaces, shirts, cookies, bubble tea, and shave ice.  It was fun just getting to talk to all the shop owners.

#8 Fly-by the Molokai Sea Cliffs, the tallest in the world.

Molokai’s north shore boasts magnificent 3800 foot tall cliffs dropping straight into the ocean.  Seeing them is one of the most dramatic things to do in Molokai island, and you won’t find taller sea cliffs anywhere else on earth!

They aren’t easy to get to.  You could make an arduous, treacherous multi-day hike to the top.  You could charter a boat to chug around Halawa Valley for a few hundred dollars.  Or, for the best view of all, you can fly right past them with Mokulele Air.  Mokulele has a one-hour scenic flight from Maui.  It swoops right by the cliffs and Kalaupapa peninsula, and then over the length of Molokai’s south shore coral reefs, finally dropping you back on Maui.  If you really want to see the cliffs, but don’t care about the Kalaupapa peninsula tour, this is the most economical option:

• Flights from Kahului – Central Maui
• Flights from Kapalua – West Maui

#9 Visit a Phallic Rock and gaze down on Kalaupapa at Pala’au State Park

Just a short and steep hike from the parking lot will reveal Kauleonanahoa, Molokai’s famous “Phallic Rock.” According to Hawaiian legends, if a woman goes to Kauleonanahoa with offerings and spends the night there, she will return home pregnant.  Your kids will giggle for the rest of the day if you choose to teach them the definition of the word “phallic”.  A little further along the trail is an overlook to Kalaupapa Peninsula, some 1700 feet below.  It’s the next best thing to flying in.

#10 Enjoy Samples at Purdy’s Macadamia Nut Farm

Mr. Purdy offers free tours of their orchard.  After the tour, you can sample the different ways the nuts are prepared, and then buy jars of your favorite.  My kids really enjoyed being handed a hammer and shown how to crack open the shells.    Tue–Fri 9:30am–3:30pm and Sat 10am–2pm,  Sun and holidays by appointment

#11 Listen to the Kanikapila at Coffees of Hawaii

Every Tuesday from 10am to 1pm and Friday from 3-6pm, a group of locals meet to play ukulele and sing Hawaiian and American classics. This 500 acre coffee plantation and coffee shop sells java that was grown, processed and packed right here.  Open Mon-Sat.

#12 Hike the Halawa Valley to Moaula Falls

You’ll need a guide, as it passes through private property. It takes 2.5 to 3 hours, so pack in enough water.

#13 Make your own Lei at Molokai Plumerias

At this Plumeria Orchard, you can get a tour and sew your own lei.  It takes about 50 of these yellow flowers to make one.  Open Mon-Fri, call first for an appointment 808-553-3391.

#14 Visit the Sorta Ghost Town of Maunaloa

Molokai Ranch once owned a third of the island, employed 120 people, and operated a golf course, a movie theater, a hotel, several restaurants, and a gas station all located in the upcountry town of Maunaloa.  After overwhelming protests by the community against their plans to develop coastal property, Molokai ranch shut down everything in 2008.  People still live in Maunaloa, and there is a working general store, but a drive through here will pass dozens of abandoned buildings, with their old signs still on them, a town forever frozen in 2008.

#15 Hike the Pepeopae Trail in Kamakou Preserve

Located high in the mountains of east side, Kamakou Preserve is a rain forest with more than 200 species of native plants. A metal and wood boardwalk takes you through a moss-covered rain forest and pristine mountain bog before arriving at a spectacular overlook of Pelekunu Valley. Hikes are arranged monthly.

#16 Get Up Close to a Humpback Whale.

Humpback whales visit in the winter, with peak density from January 15 to March 31. You can possibly see one or two as early as October, and as late as May. If you are going on a whale watch, February and March are perfect. Whale Watch Molokai has the best Molokai Boat Tours for $79.

#17 Catch a Fish Bigger Than You

The waters off Molokai have some of the best fishing in all of Hawaii. In fact, some big commercial boats from Oahu started coming all the way over to see what they could catch. (Spoiler: They caught a fist up aside their head from some Molokai fisherman) But no worries, you can go with Captain Mike and test your luck with Molokai Fishing.

#18 Play Golf on Molokai

You can play 9 Holes at Ironwood Hills Golf Course for under $40 bucks.  Yep. Certainly the best golf deal in the state.

Things to Do in Molokai – What you Need to Know Before You Go

Backpacker Daily Budget:

$68. With no hostels, or efficient public transportation; the best way to see Molokai on a backpacker budget is by travelling in a group of four, splitting camping fees and car rental. Four non-residents camping at Papohaku Beach Park Monday thru Thursday would be $10 per-person per-day. Splitting a rental car will run $22 per-person per-day, plus another $4 for gas. Get your breakfast and dinner cookout supplies from Friendly Market Molokai for $10, and have lunch in Kaunakakai for $10 at Molokai Burger. Three beers will run you $12 at Paddlers Inn. Entry to all the best County and State Parks on Molokai are free.

Best Time to Visit Molokai:

Anytime is a good time to visit. Molokai has warm weather year round. In my opinion, the best time is January through March for low humidity, and the chance to see whales. But it really depends on your plans:

• The temperature hardly changes. The hottest month is August with highs of 87 and lows of 73. The coolest month is February at 80 and 65.
• Humidity does change: August is the worst at 84% humidity. January, February, March, and April are the best with low humidity at around 30%. If you like sunny, but not muggy, choose winter.
• Rainfall varies quite a bit. The driest month is June with only 0.3 of an inch. The “wet season” is December through April 15 with averages between 1.5 and 2 inches per month. This isn’t really very much rain, but it is possible to get a week where it rains every single day in these months, particularly January and February.
• Ocean temperatures vary by 5 degrees, peaking at 80 in September, and bottoming out at 75 in March. Visitors will probably judge the ocean to be plenty warm anytime, but as a local, I find it very chilly in March and nice in September. If you plan to spend a lot of time in the water, for snorkeling or SCUBA diving, August-September-October might be the best for you.
• Humpback whales visit in the winter, with peak whale density from January 15 to March 31. You can possibly see one or two as early as October, and as late as May. If you are going on a whale watch, February and March are perfect.
• Price of accommodations change dramatically throughout the year. Rates peak the week between Christmas and New Year, when every single room on the island is sold out. Room rates are at their lowest in September and October. A typical condo that goes for $199 in January, might be only $130 in October.

What languages are spoken on Molokai?

Everyone speaks English cause Hawaii really is part of America. However, folks who grew up here will speak Hawaiian Pidgin to each other.  Some people also speak Hawaiian in Molokai.

Do you need a U.S. visa?

Americans obviously do not need any papers to come to the 50th state. Canadian visitors do not need a visa, and can stay for 182 days out of a year. AUS and UK visitors need to complete an Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA) before arrival, and then get 90 days to visit.

How to Get to Molokai from Maui / Oahu:

The Ferry from Maui to Molokai…..is all gone.

Getting to Molokai is limited to arriving by air.  There is no ferry to Molokai. The long-running Maui to Molokai ferry “Island Princess” used to go from Lahaina, Maui, but all their ferries to Molokai shut down in October 2016.  PLEASE NOTE: The website for the ferry is still up on the web at Molokaiferry.com but I assure you, the Molokai ferry NO LONGER EXISTS.  They simply didn’t bother to take down the site.

There is no Lanai to Molokai ferry or a ferry to Oahu either.  So unless you have a friend with a boat or jet-ski, or you are one hell of a good swimmer, the only way to arrive is via air.

Flights to Molokai:

There are only three airlines to Molokai to choose from; Ohana by Hawaiian, Mokulele, and Makani Kai.

Molokai has two airports. The main airport is Molokai Airport (MKK) also known as Hoolehua.  Molokai Airport is located in the center of the island, 7 miles northwest of Kaunakakai, the largest town on Molokai.  All flights that serve Molokai Airport are turbo-prop aircraft. No jet planes land here.  The Mokulele and Makani Kai flights are on little 9-seater, single engine planes that fly at about 2500 feet.  Everyone gets a window seat, and the views of west Maui and the southern coast of Molokai are spectacular.    The total flight time from Kahului to Molokai-MKK is only 17 minutes!   There are no TSA security checks on these flights.  And no tickets, just assigned seats by your weight.   It’s all refreshingly casual.  A guy rolled up to the counter 20 minutes before the flight and got on.  You can take two carry-on bags of up to 15lbs and they do weigh them. Larger bags must be checked for $20 each way.

Oahu to Molokai Flights:

• Honolulu (Oahu)- Ohana by Hawaiian has flights to Molokai airport from Honolulu starting at $132 round-trip, Mokulele starting at $108 round-trip, and Makani Kai at $110 round-trip

Maui to Molokai Flights:

• Kahului (Maui) – Mokulele has flights to Molokai airport from Maui starting at $112 round-trip, Makani Kai at $110 round-trip

Kalaupapa to Molokai flights:

• Kalaupapa (Molokai) – Mokulele has flights to Molokai Airport from Kalaupapa starting at $98 round-trip, Makani Kai at $100 round-trip.

A secondary airport serves the geographically isolated Kalaupapa peninsula. Kalaupapa Airport (LUP) has flights from two destinations:

• Honolulu (Oahu)- Mokulele, Makani Kai
• Molokai-Hoolehua (Molokai) – Mokulele, Makani Kai

Be aware there is NO POSSIBLE GROUND TRANSPORTATION from Kalaupapa peninsula to the rest of the island of Molokai. It is an isolated peninsula, surrounded by ocean on three sides, and thousand-foot cliffs on the other. The only way to reach the rest of the island is via steep hiking trail (which is currently closed).

How to Get Around Molokai:

You definitely want to rent a car on Molokai. There is a county bus, but it isn’t going to get you to the stunning nature sights.  Roads are in good shape, and with only three main roads, you can’t really get lost. Just have enough gas when leaving Kaunakakai, because gas stations are nonexistent outside the town.  And be prepared for the gas prices…

Car Rental on Molokai:  There are three decent options for car rental, and one terrible one.  Be aware these local car rental shops only have a handful of cars.  It is entirely possible for every car on the island to be rented out.  Book far in advance.

• Mobettah Car Rentals – Only rents cars for a minimum of one week. Cheapest cars are $47 a day. They will deliver the car to you at the airport.
• Molokai Car Rental easily beats Alamo, with their cheapest cars going for $39 for a week-long rental. They will deliver the car to you at the Airport, or the dock if you have a boat. They can also rent cruiser bicycles for $10-15 a day.
• Turo – is a pricey option for Molokai. The cheapest I could find was an economy car for $82 a day, with pickup/drop-off at the Molokai airport.  If you have never used Turo before, click HERE for $25 off your first rental.
• Alamo – rents cars right from Molokai Airport for outrageous prices. When I last checked it was $79 a day for their cheapest car! If you are using an internet rental search, this is likely all that will show up. AVOID! RENT LOCAL!

If you are really adventurous, and um…cheap, you could attempt to get around solely by the free MEO Bus.  This single bus goes back and forth around the island.

There is no Uber or Lyft on Molokai.

There are a couple of taxi services.  Arrange rides a day in advance to ensure pick-up.  Airport to Hotel Molokai should run $35.

• Hele Mai Taxi  808-336-0967

•  Midnight Taxi  808-658-1410

Stay Connected:

The only place to buy a SIM card on Molokai is the Verizon store next to Molokai Pizza Cafe.  Its best to get this sorted on Maui or Oahu before you arrive.  Cell phone coverage is surprisingly good for such a rural island.  I was able to get coverage way out on Papohaku Beach, and in several spots out on the east side too.

Places to Stay on Molokai:

Camping on Molokai:

There are three campgrounds on Molokai of varying appeal:

One Ali’i Beach Park

Centrally located on the south shore at Mile 3.3 of Kamehameha V Highway, just three miles from Kaunakakai. This Maui County Park has a big grass field with shaded spots for camping and picnic tables. Restrooms, showers, and drinking water are available. It’s convenient for access to Kaunakakai restaurants, but the ocean is too shallow and muddy for swimming here, and you can hear every car that drives by all night long. You can stay a maximum of four nights. The non-Hawaii resident fee is $10 per adult per night Mon-Thur, and $20 per adult per night on Fri-Sat-Sun and Holiday nights. To stay here you’ll have to fill out a Permit application and mail it in the Parks Department ahead of time. NOT RECOMMENDED.

Papohaku Beach Park

At the far west end of the island lies gorgeous three-mile long Papohaku Beach. At this Maui County Park, you can set up your tent in the shade of a kiawe tree. You will hear nothing but waves crashing at night. The ocean is plenty deep for swimming here, but the water can get really rough. Be careful. Restrooms and showers are available. To get here, take Maunaloa Highway (460) West to mile marker 15, then turn onto Kaluakoi Road. Follow Kaluakoi Road for 7 miles to Papohaku Beach Park. You can stay a maximum of four nights. The non-Hawaii resident fee is $10 per adult per night Mon-Thur, and $20 per adult per night on Fri-Sat-Sun and holiday nights. To stay here you’ll have to fill out a Permit application and mail it in the Parks Department ahead of time.   When we stayed here there was only one other tent in the entire campground.  It is a wonderful place to camp! HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!

Pala’au State Park

This state park sits high up on a cliff overlooking the Kalaupapa peninsula. With lots of shade under ironwood tress, and a higher elevation, this is the coolest spot to camp on a hot summer day. A short trail leads to a phallic stone thought to enhance fertility. Restrooms and picnic tables available, but no showers or drinking water. To get here, follow the Kalae Highway (470) past the village of Kualapuu to almost the end. Look for pavilion on left followed by camping area 1/4 mile further on the right. If you reach the lookout parking lot, you went just a little too far. You can stay a maximum of 5 nights, and then must wait 30 days before your next stay. The non-Hawaii resident fee is $18 per campsite, per night for up to six people. You can easily get a camping permit online through the Division of State Parks. This is a nice place to camp! RECOMMENDED.

Hotels on Molokai:

This is an easy section to write. There is only ONE HOTEL on all of Molokai.

• Hotel Molokai – is likely the nicest place to stay on the island. It is oceanfront, and has a pool. Rooms start at $145.

Molokai Vacation Properties:

There are several oceanfront condos.  Wavecrest Molokai and Molokai Shores are two of the biggest.  Your best bet is either Booking.com or AirBnB for a decent Molokai vacation rental.

There are no Molokai resorts.  Molokai doesn’t do fancy.  If you are looking for resorts on Molokai, you’re in the wrong place.

Booking.com

Best Restaurants in Molokai:

Nothing fancy is being served on Molokai, but lots of good home cooking. Only a couple of restaurants serve alcohol, and many places are closed on Sundays. Some places are cash only. Expect “relaxed” service most everywhere.  As one menu states “If you’re in a hurry, you’re on the wrong island.”

In Kualapuu (Upcountry by the airport):

Kualapu’u Cookhouse – “Molokai’s Eating Landmark” If you’re starving when you get off the plane, or need a bite before leaving the island, this is your spot. Located down the street from the airport, the Cookhouse serves huge portions of everything. Prime rib, ono, Ahi, Mahi-Mahi, and crab-stuffed shrimp wrapped in bacon (seriously!) are popular entrees. Big outdoor picnic tables encourage meeting people. Live music on Thursdays. BYOB. Open 7am to 8pm Tues – Sat, 9am to 2pm Sunday, 7am to 2pm Monday. Cash only.

Best Choices in Kaunakakai:

Paddlers Inn Restaurant and Bar (serves alcohol) Certainly the most popular restaurant on the island. People like the pupus, burgers, salads, poke bowls, fresh fish, and sandwiches. Big portions. This is also the nightlife spot of Molokai. Open 10am to 9pm for dining, bar open late. Happy Hour 2-5pm. Closed Sunday.

Molokai Burger has great burgers, but gets even higher marks for their fried chicken. The only drive-thru “fast” food on Molokai. Good breakfasts too. Open Mon-Sat 7am to 9pm.

Molokai Pizza Café is the place for pizza on island.  It’s a modern, sit-down restaurant with A/C and a Pac-Man arcade game.  We enjoyed some pizza and salad and several games of Pac-Man.

Kamoi Snack-N-Go is THE place for ice cream on island. They serve 30 flavors of Dave’s Hawaiian Ice Cream, with some local Hawaiian flavors you won’t find anywhere else.

Kanemitsu Bakery is by far the most historic business on Molokai. This family-owned bakery has been selling “hot bread” out of a side window in a back alley since the 1930s. Every night but Monday from 730pm til 11pm, you can walk up to the window, request the filling you want – strawberry, blueberry, butter, cream cheese, or cinnamon, and get hot bread to go for $8 to $10. Tell anyone from Maui you went to Molokai, and they’ll ask if you brought them back Kanemitsu bread. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner too.

Ono Fish & Shrimp food truck gets the nod for best fish tacos on the island. Also fish n chips, mahi, shrimp. Open only on Tue, Wed, Thur, Fri 1030am to 2pm.

A Taste of Molokai – Poke Truck – served excellent fresh poke at reasonable prices.  We had multiple poke bowls.

Hula Bean Café – is the only real coffee shop on island.  I enjoyed a smooth mocha frappe here.  They also make sandwiches.

Hiro’s Ohana Grill at Hotel Molokai (serves alcohol) is the only true fine-dining on island.

East Side:

Mana’e Goods and Grindz – If you are way out on the East Side and get hungry, look no further. Breakfast, burgers, plate lunch, fried chicken, it’s all good at this little grab’n’go take-out. I recommend the “Paniolo Burger”  with bacon and barbeque sauce.  Open 8am to 3:30pm daily, except closed Wednesdays.

Groceries:

Kaunakakai has two decent sized grocery stores, Friendly Market Center and Misaki’s Grocery.  Molokai Wines and Spirits has a surprisingly good selection of all kinds of beer and wine.  Expect prices in line with the expense of having everything shipped halfway across the Pacific.  Outside of Kaunakakai, your options are limited.  In Maunaloa you’ll find the Maunaloa General Store, in Kaulapu’u lies the Kaulapu’u Market, and way out east, Manae Goods and Grindz has a small convenience store.

Molokai Nightlife:

When I told some Maui local boys that I was looking for a good bar on Molokai, their response was “Why? No can get buss up in Kihei?” Meaning, Molokai is small, tight-knit, and wary of haole (white) outsiders, so going into a bar is a good way to get beat up.   This isn’t true at all anymore though.  For one thing, there is really only one bar.  But don’t expect much excitement in the wee hours on Molokai. Most everything closes up early.

• Paddlers Inn Molokai is the islands most consistently active spot. They have live music of all kinds nearly every night from 630 to 830pm. Sunday afternoons at 3pm they host Na Ohana Aloha for great Hawaiian music. Weekends have a DJ that keeps the place going late.
• Hiro’s Ohana Grill in the Hotel Molokai has Hawaiian music most nights at their poolside bar.
• Molokai Wines N Spirits – This is not a nightlife spot, but it’s the best place for you to load up on whatever you need to create your own nightlife on a deserted beach.  They have a great selection of beer and wines.

Get a Guidebook:

I am unimpressed by the available print and eBook guidebooks to Molokai.  Things change, restaurants come and go, and no print guidebook is going to beat the up-to-date information I’ve researched and listed here.  But, there is one Molokai travel guide that I do recommend:

Franko’s Molokai Guide Waterproof Map is an invaluable resource for the off-grid adventurer.  If you plan to bike and hike or even drive off-road around Molokai, this map will “fill in the blanks” that may show up as empty spaces on Google Maps.

What to Pack:

You can get the basics you need on Molokai, but not at Amazon or Walmart prices.  It’s better to bring with you quality gear at mainland prices.  You also don’t want to be spending your limited vacation time searching for the right stuff.  Here is what I use, and recommend you bring:

Snorkel, Mask and Fins – The Cressi Palau Short Fins provide a mask with a great fit for all faces, durable quality, and great fins that aren’t so long you fall on your face trying to exit the water.  The best snorkeling package value.  You’ll need this to see all the fishies on the barrier reef.

Travel Towel – The PackTowl Personal Microfiber towel is the best travel towel there is.  It’s comfortable, quick-drying, lightweight, and packs down to the size of a paperback book.  Comes in four sizes and eleven colors.  I have the largest size “Beach” at 36 x 59 inches in Blueberry.  Get this towel, and avoid having to buy a crappy convenience store “ALOHA” towel for $29.95 that you’ll never use again.

Reef Safe Sunscreen – Effective January 1, 2021 the State of Hawaii has banned all non reef-safe sunscreens from sale in the islands.  Why not get ahead of the curve, and bring this excellent sunscreen with you?  Thinksport SPF 50 rubs in easily and feels good on your skin.  And you’re saving our coral reefs.

Sunhat – It’s pretty sunny on the south shores of Molokai, and you might want a decent hat to go with that reef-safe sunscreen.  These Hemlock Hat Company wide brimmed straw hats are what all the cool kids are wearing at the beach these days.  I have the “Bandit” color.

While these items are of particular importance to make the most of your visit to Molokai, it would be worth checking out my Ultimate Travel Packing List that covers everything you might need for your trip.

Is Molokai Safe?

Yes, very safe.  The level of safety is comparable to a small farming town in the American Midwest.  Everyone knows everyone.  Crime is low.  It’s hard to steal a car when you got nowhere to drive it to!  Be respectful of locals, and they’ll be respectful of you.

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The Best Things to Do in Swaziland brings you 48 hours of adventure in the Ezulwini Valley.  Stay in a mountainside lodge.  Go on a bicycle-safari past zebra, giraffe, antelope and warthogs.  Experience traditional Swazi village life. Watch a cultural dance performance that will amaze you with its athleticism.

Where is Swaziland?

This tiny, landlocked nation is wedged between South Africa and Mozambique.  It is one of the smallest countries in Africa, at only 120 miles from north to south, and 80 miles across east to west. No two points in the country are more than a two and half hour drive apart.  Swaziland was a British protectorate from 1903 until it regained its independence in 1968.  It is an attractive country, with many different climates, from cool mountainous highlands, to rainforests, and hot, dry savannah lowlands.

What about Swaziland’s new name?  Is it Swaziland or Eswatini?

In April 2018, Swaziland got a new name. To celebrate 50 years of independence, King Mswati III changed the country’s name from Kingdom of Swaziland to the Kingdom of Eswatini.   Eswatini’s meaning is “land of the Swazis” in the Swazi language, and was partially intended to prevent confusion with the similarly named Switzerland.  You’ll still see Swaziland in print everywhere.  It will take time for the new name to take hold.  No one is offended if you still call it Swaziland.

The King of Swaziland has HOW MANY wives?

The government is an absolute diarchy, ruled jointly by King Mswati III and Queen Mother Ntfombi Tfwala.  The King’s official title is Ngwenyama which means “Lion”. The Queen Mother’s offical title is Ndlovukati, meaning the She-Elephant.

You’ll see pictures of the king everywhere.  He currently has 14 wives, and picks up a new one every couple of years.  He simply takes whatever young girl he likes.  In 2002, Zena Mahlangu, an 18-year-old high school student, was kidnapped by government agents and disappeared.  A few weeks later, her mother was notified that her daughter was now pregnant and about to become another wife of the king.

Mswati III was crowned King in 1986 at only 18 years old.  He was the youngest head of state in the world for 15 years!  The King has absolute power in Swaziland.  He cannot be opposed, sued, or brought up on charges.  He has a net worth of over 200 Million USD, while over half of Swazi citizens live on less than $2 a day.  Despite all this, he remains relatively popular among the people of Swaziland.

What are the people of Swaziland like?

The majority of its 1.2 million people are ethnically Swazi, but there are also a small number of Zulu and White Africans, mostly people of families who came here during British colonial times.  Over 100,000 live in the capital, Mbabane (Mbabane pronunciation is BAH-BAHN, the “m” is silent).   Swaziland appears more prosperous than neighboring Mozambique, or even nearby parts of South Africa.  However, it suffers from the most serious health crisis in the world.   27% of the adult population is HIV-positive.  Eswatini also has the highest rate of tuberculosis in the world.   Consequently, despite its relative economic prosperity, it has the 12th lowest life expectancy, at just 58 years.  Despite all this, the people of Swaziland are friendly, welcoming, proud of their heritage and culture, and quick with a smile or a laugh.

How to Spend Two Perfect days Enjoying the Best Things to Do in Swaziland:

Day 1:

We’ll assume a starting location of Johannesburg for your journey to visit Swaziland.  Whether you have a morning flight landing at Johannesburg OR Tambo Airport (JNB), or are already staying in the city, either way you can catch a morning “luxury van service” to Swaziland.  Seats are comfortable and snacks, drinks, and wi-fi are available on board. City Ride leaves the Sandton Gautrain Station at 9am, and OR Tambo International Airport at 10am.  After a smooth 4 hour ride, and a brief stop at the border, you’ll arrive in the capital city of Mbabane at 3pm.  Fares are around $28.

From Mbabane, you can hop on any kombi van heading to Ezulwini for just a dollar.  The City Ride folks can help you find one.  Tell the driver you want to get off at Lidwala Backpacker Lodge.  It is right on the main road to Ezulwini, just a mile before the Gables Shopping Center in the center of Ezulwini.  It will take you 30-40 minutes to get there, depending on how many times the kombi stops to let people on and off.

You’ll be dropped at the foot of the driveway to Lidwala, and walk up a steep hill to a beautiful lodge nestled among trees, boulders, and a bubbling stream.  Drop your bags, and grab a cold Sibebe Premium Lager, you have arrived in Ezulwini Valley, meaning “The Valley of Heaven”!

If you are feeling energetic, you could follow the hiking trails out of the lodge to the very top of Sheba’s Breast mountain for an amazing sunset view.  After sunset, you can pitch in a couple of dollars for a budget communal dinner at the lodge, or you can get a kombi to the Gables Shopping Center.  In this little strip mall, you’ll find several restaurants:

• Sheba’s Rock Spur is a good steakhouse
• Adega The Gables serves Portuguese food.
• Ocean Basket has good seafood and sushi
• Another option is to get a ride a couple of miles north of the Lidwala Lodge to Luxy Garden Restaurant.  It’s the best Chinese food you’ll find in the country.

Day 2:

9am  – Walk or get a ride a mile south down Mantenga Drive to Swazi Trails. This tour company rents mountain bikes.  You’ll want to rent a bike for the day.  A daily (9-5) rental costs around $35USD.

If you are still itching for a decent cup of coffee, pedal your new ride next door to Mugg & Bean in the Gables Center.

After powering up on coffee, its time to pedal a seven kilometer ride to our first stop of the day.

• Exit the Gables Center by taking a right, and head southeast on the main road – MR103.  Keep going for 4 kilometers.
• When you see the sign for Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary, turn right onto D55.  Continue for 3 kilometers.

You have arrived at the  Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary. This wonderful game reserve has no man-eating predators, so you can do a self-guided bike safari past zebra, Roan antelope, warthogs, crocodiles.  The sanctuary won’t be mistaken for the Serengeti, and doesn’t have the Big 5, but where else can you walk or ride a bike right next to so many animals?  Where else can you get a selfie with a wild warthog or a nyala or an impala?  It is really fun to pedal these unmarked trails, getting a bit lost, not knowing what you’ll see around the next corner.  Entry is 100 rand ($7).

The animals are used to human activity, so they don’t run off until you get pretty close.  Being out in the bush on your bike is a thrill, and a very different experience than sitting in a steel cage of a jeep waiting for the guide to point something out to you.  You get to be the hunter!  (Camera hunter that is).

You’ll be pedaling through open grassland, through forest, past watering holes.  There are safari trucks out there as well, but not too many.  You’ll often be relatively alone on the trail.

After a few hours of cycling, you’ll have worked up an appetite.  You could get lunch right here in the Reserve at the Hippo Haunt Restaurant and Bar.  They have a set-price buffet lunch, as well as a la carte sandwiches, and a full bar.  If the Hippo is not your cup of tea, you could also grab lunch back at the Gables Center, as it is on the way to our next stop.

After lunch and a rest, it’s time to for a 10km pedal on to our second stop of the day, The Mantenga Cultural Village.  Aim to depart the Reserve by 2pm.

• Exit the Reserve the same way you came in.  Continue northeast on D55 for 3.2km.
• Turn left onto the main road MR103, continue northwest for 3.6km.
• Turn left just before you get to the Gables Shopping Center.  You’ll immediately pass the U.S. Embassy (a ridiculously oversized and over-guarded fortress). You’ll follow this road for 3 km til you arrive.  Keep looking for the signs.

Mantenga Cultural Village

Mantenga is the last stop on our visit to Swaziland.  Upon entry you’ll first notice a well-built representation of a traditional Swazi village in 1850, a mini complex of sixteen reed-woven huts, and reed fences that serve as windbreaks.  After paying the entry fee, you can wander around the model village.  You’ll see young dancers getting ready and changing into costume in some of the huts.  Hand-made crafts will be on sale.  Tour buses will be dropping people off for the 3:15 dance performance.

Next, you’ll be ushered to a large veranda/stage and seated for the traditional dance performance.   You can order beers and soft drinks for the bar while you wait.  Once it gets going, the drumming and singing and dancing is really quite spectacular.  The ladies do these straight-leg high kicks that put the Rockettes to shame.  The girl on the far left of the picture had lipstick on her shin from the spot where her leg was kicking herself in the face!  The men drum, and stamp their feet in warlike posturing.  If you are sitting in the front, be prepared to be dragged up on stage to join them.  Its lots of fun.  The dancers finish after about 45 minutes, you’ll be encouraged to drop some banknotes in a jar, and then led to the village for a tour.

Back in the model village, your village elder guide will explain the ancient Swazi way of life.  He’ll show you the use and purpose of each huts and how traditional tools are made.  He’s a funny guy and provides an entertaining 20 minute tour.

There are two dance performances each day, at 11:15am and at 3:15pm.  The Village is open 8am to 5pm.  Admission is only 100 rand ($7), but tips are expected for the performers, and for your village guide.

Once the Village tour is complete, you’ll need to return your bike to Swazi Trails by their 5pm closing time.

• Exit the Village the way you came in, and continue for 2km
• Just before you reach the US Embassy, and the main road, turn left on Mantenga Drive.  Continue 1.8km.
• Swazi Trails will be on your left.

After dropping off your bike, it’s definitely time for a cold Sibebe (beer).  There is an excellent pizza place right next door to Swazi Trails; Pizza Vesuvio.  You could also stop in any of the afore-mentioned dinner options in the Gables Center.

Day 3:

8am – Check out of Lidwala Lodge and get a lift down to the Gables Center.  At 830am the City Ride shuttle departs the Gables Shopping Center.  By 2pm you’ll be back in Johannesburg.

Or, for further adventure, why not continue on to Mozambique?  That’s what I did.  To do this, you’ll need to get a kombi to the main bus station of Manzini.  From this chaotic parking lot, you’ll just have to ask anyone where the vans to Maputo are.  You’ll be pointed in the right direction, and find a couple of big vans slowly loading up with people and luggage.  I waited several hours for my van to fill.  We had just one seat left for an hour!  Once we got going, we reached Maputo in five hours, including an hour wait at the border because the Mozambique immigration just didn’t feel like being bothered to process a visa for me.  I’m not sure if they were slow-rolling me waiting for a bribe?  Finally our van driver came in and yelled at them to hurry up, and they got to work.

If you have more time, here are some other awesome things to do in Swaziland:

Mkhaya Game Reserve

This park has game drives that spot both White Rhino and the rare Black Rhino, giraffe, sable antelope, and buffalo.

Hlane Royal National Park

Hlane offers one of the best African safari experiences that most people who visit Swaziland look for.  It has four of the “Big Five” with lion, leopard, rhino and elephant, as well as giraffe, hippo, crocodile, and zebra.

Lobamba

Is the small village where the King and the rest of Swaziland’s royal family live.  You can visit the National Museum, and the Lozitha and Embo state palaces.

Umhlanga (Reed Dance) festival

This is one of the top events to visit Swaziland for.  It’s in August/September, when unmarried women parade in front of the king at the Reed Dance.

The Bushfire Festival

The biggest music festival in the country brings international music stars to the House On Fire in little Swaziland.

Usutu River whitewater rafting

Swaziland has one rough river that will give you a thrill in the summer/fall months.

Malolotja Nature Reserve

This national park has some spectacular hiking, and a canopy zip-line tour.  Open 7am to 4pm in summer, and the zip-line costs R595 ($42).  Other places worth visiting include the Mbuluzi Game Reserve, the Shewula Mountain Camp, and Sibebe Rock.

Best Things to Do in Swaziland: Know before you Go:

Backpacker Daily Budget (Hostel bed, three cheap meals, three beers, two public transport rides, one tourist activity):

$40.  $14 for a hostel bed at Lidwala Lodge.  $3 for milk and cereal breakfast, and $4 street-food lunch, $5 for dinner at Lidwala, $5 for three cold Sibebe Premium Lagers, $2 for two Kombi rides around town, $7 for entry to Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary.

Cheap Beer index:

$1.40  You can get a cold Sibebe Premium Lager for 20 Rand at The Pub and Grill in Ezulwini.

When to visit Swaziland:

Really any time of year is a good time to visit.  It never gets too hot in the touristy areas of the country.  Summer (December – January – February – March) is very nice with highs averaging 80 degrees, and lows of 65.  This is also the rainy season, but not too much at 3-4 inches per month, mostly in thunderstorms.

Wintertime (June-July) is cool and comfortable with highs of 72 and lows of 51.  It hardly rains at all this time of year.  This can be good for safaris.  The vegetation is thin, and animals are clustered around watering holes, so are easier to find.  Just being a sweater.

What language do they speak in Swaziland?

SiSwati and English are both official languages.  SiSwati is the common spoken language, and English is the language of business, schools, and media.  You’ll do fine speaking English everywhere but the smallest villages.

Do you need a visa to visit Swaziland?

No visa is needed.  Nationals of USA, UK, AUS, and CAN can enter eSwatini visa-free for 30 days.

How to get to Swaziland:

Flights to Swaziland:

The only Swaziland international airport is the brand new King Mswati III International Airport (SHO).  This strangely located airport is a one hour drive from Manzini, and a 90 minute drive from Mbabane.  The airport has only ONE FLIGHT ROUTE!  Four times a day, South African Air flies a 50 minute hop between Swaziland and Johannesburg.  This flight starts at $178 one-way, $356 return.  For a budget traveler, it makes no sense to pay this much to fly in here.  Upon landing, you still have a long, expensive cab ride ahead of you.

A much cheaper option to visit Swaziland is to arrive via Johannesburg O.R. Tambo (JNB). Many airlines fly here from all over the world.  European and American flights include:

• • Air France to Paris
  • Alitalia to Rome
  • British Airways to London
  • Delta to Atlanta
  • Iberia to Madrid
  • KLM to Amsterdam
  • Lufthansa to Frankfurt
  • South African Airways to Frankfurt, London, Munich, New York, Washington
  • Swiss Air to Zurich
  • Virgin Atlantic to London

To visit Swaziland from JNB takes about four hours.   Multiple businesses offer “luxury shuttles” which means you get a full seat to yourself,  rather than being crammed in like a sardine as in most African transport.  Transport companies include Sky World, Transmagnific and City Ride.

I strongly recommend City Ride even though I didn’t actually get to travel with them, and here’s why:  Both Sky World and Transmagnific wanted me to complete a bank wire transfer to book a seat on their van!  Like many companies in Africa, they are unable (unwilling?) to deal with the fees of major credit card companies.  They have some local payment system that works for people from South Africa.  For foreigners, they want you to complete a bank wire transfer, which is just ludicrous for a $28 bus ride.  They wouldn’t respond to my offers to pay cash on arrival.  So, I ended up booking with City Ride for 400 rand, as they would accept cash.  The day before my trip, the City Ride van broke down.  Nella from City Ride notified me by email, and offered to book me with one of their competitors.  After several back and forth emails and much last-minute scrambling, she got me a seat on Transmagnific.  Such diligent customer service is hard to find!

By Land from South Africa:

There are multiple border crossings from South Africa.  Minibuses leave from Park Station taxi stand in Johannesburg and stop in Mbabane and end in Manzini.  The fare is 230 rand ($16).  These are traditional sardine-can crammed vans.  You’ll have to wait for the minibus to be full before leaving.

By Land from Mozambique:

There are multiple border crossings from Mozambique.  Vans from Maputo leave when full.

How to get around Swaziland:

Rental car – You can rent a car from the King Mswati III International Airport, or from Johannesburg.  This is a good way to get around, main roads are well paved.  Driving is on the left as in South Africa.  If driving a South African car, you may need a permit from the rental car company authorizing you to take it into Swaziland.  You’ll pay a 50rand ($3.50) road tax upon entering Swaziland.

Kombi minibusus drive up and down the main roads, and you can hail one most anywhere.  Rides cost between 30 cents for a short ride, up to $2 to cross half the country.

Bicycle – Biking is a great way to get around the Ezulwini Valley.  You’ll want to see the Mlilwane Animal Sanctuary on a bike.  Unfortunately, there are no affordable bike rental shops.  The only option in Ezulwini is Swazi Trails, which rents mountain bikes of mediocre quality for outrageous prices by African standards.  I paid r280 ($20) for just a half-day rental.  A day-long rental was in the $35 range, and that’s not even for a full 24 hours, you are expected to turn the bike in by store closing time at 5pm.  Hopefully one of the hostels will catch on to the opportunity, and rent out bikes for something remotely reasonable.

Walking is possible.  The town is quite spread out, so you’ll walk a lot if you want to get to anything.  It is hilly, with poor sidewalks.

Currency of Swaziland:

The currency of Swaziland is the Lilangeni (plural form Emalangeni).  It is pegged at par with the South African Rand (14.2 ZAR = $1 USD) and available at numerous ATM’s.  Both Lilangeni and South African Rand are readily accepted currencies in Eswatini.  However, Emalangeni are NOT accepted anywhere outside of Eswatini.  For this reason, you should ensure that you use up all your Emalangeni before leaving the country.  If you visit Swaziland from South Africa with a pocketful of Rand, then you don’t need to get any Emalangeni.  Eswatini is a largely cash economy.  For more info on your cash-versus-credit card options when travelling, check out my post on How to Access your Money in Foreign Countries.

Swaziland mobile phone providers: 

Mobile phone use is a little difficult when you visit Swaziland.  Few operators offer international roaming in Swaziland.  Of all South African providers, only MTN has roaming here, and for a surcharge.  Data charges are much more expensive than in South Africa.  All SIMs must be registered with the government.

Swaziland has two mobile network providers:

MTN Swaziland – SIM’s are sold in MTN stores and everywhere for about 75 cents without credit. Prepaid is called PayAsYouGo.   You’ll need to top-up immediately.  MTN vouchers can be bought from most major retail stores across the country in the form of scratch cards or till slips. Each voucher has a unique PIN code printed on it. In order to load the indicated amount of MTN airtime onto your phone, simply dial *141*#.
300 MB  costs $10
500 MB  costs $16
1.5 GB  costs $28

Swazi Mobile is a newcomer to the market, and is quickly gaining market share.  They offer prepaid bundles of different amounts, nearly always cheaper than MTN Swazi.  Their “MAX DEAL 4” gives you 30 days with 500 on-net minutes, 100 off-net minutes, 50 local SMS, and 1 GB of data for $14.

Hotels in Swaziland:

There are two main “cities” in eSwatini.  Manzini has 80,000 people, and the capital Mbabane has 95,000.  I don’t recommend staying in either.  Both are congested with traffic, higher in crime, and lacking in nightlife and any exciting activities anyway.  Better to stay in a lovely rural location and enjoy Eswatini’s natural beauty.  Check out the Ezulwini Valley:

Lidwala Lodge in Ezulwini is just wonderful, and certainly Swaziland’s best hostel.  It’s in a beautiful location on the slope of a mountainside.  The buildings are surrounded by big boulders and trees, with a hiking trail to the top of the mountain leading right from the hostel.  A stream runs through the center of the place, with little pedestrian bridges connecting the buildings.  They have a (really cold) pool, and cook dinner each night for just a small “pitch-in for ingredients” fee.  They sell beer and soda from a fridge at the front desk.  The friendly managers can help you book tours.  The lodge is conveniently located on the main road.  You can catch a Combi bus here, or easily walk or bike into the Gables shopping center.  This was the nicest hostel I stayed at in all of my Africa travels!  I could have spent a week here sipping beers and reading a book by the gurgling stream.  Dorm beds start at $14.  There are also several well-equipped private en suite double rooms with verandas and garden views for $62.

Mantenga Lodge – If you really loved the cultural performance, you can stay at this lovely lodge right on site.  It oozes colonial charm, has amazing views, and a pool.  Rooms start at $52 a night with breakfast.

Restaurants in Ezulwini:

Traditional Swazi food is meat served with pap (maize), Barbecued ‘chicken dust’, and wild antelope.  But you can find all types of cuisine here:

• Pizza Vesuvio has great wood fired pizza.
• Sheba’s Rock Spur is a good steakhouse
• Adega The Gables serves Portuguese food.
• Ocean Basket has good seafood and sushi
• Luxy Garden Restaurant.  It’s the best Chinese food you’ll find in the country.

Swaziland Nightlife: 

Nobody visits Swaziland for the nightlife.  It tends to be oriented around drinks with your fellow hostel/lodge mates.  The best bet for public nightlife is The Pub and Grill in the Gables Shopping Center.  If you do meet someone special while out and about, let me remind you that a staggering 27% of the adult population in Eswatini is HIV-positive.  That is more than 1 in every 4 people.  Be careful.

Get a Swaziland guidebook:  

By far the best guidebook out there is the Swaziland Bradt Travel Guide   Bradt easily beats Lonely Planet in detail and accuracy.

What to Pack: 

Swazis dress modestly.  They understand the westerners dress differently, but they will laugh at men in shorts, and make judgements about women in short skirts.   To learn how to pack light and be prepared for anything, check out my post The Worldwide Travel Packing List.

Swaziland Tourism Safety:

Is it safe to visit Swaziland?  Sort of.  Safety is a relative term.  The murder rate in Swaziland is only half that of neighboring South Africa.  Most tourists have no problems as long as they follow some commonsense rules.  At all times, but especially in the main cities of Mbabane and Manzini, I would recommend enacting the same precautions you would in a big city like Cape Town or Johannesburg:

1. While in public, don’t flash ANYTHING of value, like a wad of cash, jewelery, an $800 iPhone, or a nice DSLR camera.
2. Stay on main streets in populated places, and don’t wander off down unknown streets.
3. After sundown, do not walk around ANYWHERE.  Go with trusted drivers directly to and from your destination.

Following these three simple rules will eliminate 99% of risk.

I had no problems during my visit.  Although, I did have an unpleasant encounter.  I walked a couple of miles, while carrying my backpack, from the bus station to my hostel.  During this walk along a quiet back road, I passed a local man also walking in the same direction.  I was walking faster (he seemed to have a limp or some kind of disability), and I said hello to him as I passed.

After I walked by, he calmly said “You are going to die.”  I turned to look at him.  Was he threatening me?  He didn’t look dangerous.  Again he says, “You are going to die.  You’ll never make it.”  “Oh yeah?  How come?” I asked him.  He replied; “It’s dangerous here man.  People get killed.  Someone gonna kill you for that bag.  You never gonna make it where you’re going”.  I didn’t know how to respond.  No one had ever said anything like that to me after months of African travel.  Part of me took him at his word, and I was scared.   I started walking faster, and staring deep into the eyes of every driver that passed me, as if I could determine their intentions in a split second.  I was ready to drop my bag and sprint into the forest if any car had stopped next to me.  As I speed marched away, he kept repeating “You never gonna make it.  You gonna die.”

I made it to my hostel, shaken, but unharmed.  Later that night I brought it up with the other hostel guests, and they all thought it was just a weird encounter, and that I had nothing to worry about.

A more likely danger than street crime is road incidents and accidents.  Assume all drivers are not paying attention / drunk / texting.  Ignore people approaching your vehicle, and drive away if you feel uncomfortable.  Do not stop if you encounter man-made obstructions in the middle of the road.  This is a technique used by robbers to force vehicles to stop.

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