Destinations

“Iceland on a Budget” saves you money while you tour staggering waterfalls, explosive geysers, massive glaciers, and geothermal baths.

Iceland is the hottest chilly travel destination on Earth right now.  It seems like everyone’s going.  And that popularity has ratcheted up already expensive hotels, restaurants, and tours into the stratosphere.  Iceland is seriously, crazy, alternate-universe expensive.  It is very important that you are fully aware of what things cost here before you visit.  If you show up expecting the same prices as back home in Des Moines, Iowa, you are going to have a miserable trip.  “Iceland on a Budget” will show you what the costs are, so you can make some decisions about what fits within your budget.  If you want or need to make some cutbacks, where do you want to make them?  Maybe you don’t really care about where you sleep, as long as you get good food.  Or maybe you are happy to eat just from the grocery store, as long as you can afford to do some awesome adventures.

To help you bring down all those costs, travel to Iceland on a budget will tell you all the tips and tricks to save money and still have fun in Iceland.  We’ll share ways to cut costs on flights, accommodation, getting around, food, alcohol, and sightseeing.  We’ll let you decide which budget cuts work best for your travel style.

by Worldwide Wilbur July 2019

Iceland on a Budget – Ways to Save in Reykjavik:

I extensively research all my trips, and search high and low to find the cheapest deals on all the best tickets and tours.  Following are the most interesting activities, at the best possible prices.  If you find anything cheaper, please let me know in the comments!

Start your visit with a walk around historic Old Reykjavik, and window shop on the main street of Laugavegur.  The Free Walking Tour, gets you a couple hours of history and stories about Reykjavik.  Meet at the green clock in Lækjartorg square every day at 12:00 and 2:00 PM during the summer.  Look for the tour guide in a green jacket.  Make a donation of your choice at the end.  I really enjoyed this tour, and learned a lot about Icelandic culture.  And the price is right too!

Reykjavik is not a huge city, and most of the top points of interest are easily reached on foot.  But, if your feet start to fail you, you can get everywhere via the City Sightseeing Reykjavik Hop On Hop Off Bus.  A 24 hour ticket is $39.  This is a great choice for older folks, or anyone that doesn’t feel like walking miles and miles.

Explore the interesting street art of Reykjavik (free).

Visit the National Museum of Iceland   The best way to discover the rich history of Iceland.  Plenty of swords, drinking horns, and viking regalia to keep the kids happy.  Open Tues – Sun 10am-5pm.  Entry includes and audioguide and is $17 for adults, $8.50 for seniors 67+, free for kids 17 and under.  This is a great way to keep everyone entertained for several hours.

Get on a whale watching tour from the Old Harbour to see puffins, minke whales, white-beaked dolphins, harbor porpoises and humpback whales on a three hour sail.  Adults $91,  kids 7-15 $45, kids 0-6 are free.  This is a pricey trip, but if you’ve never seen a whale, it might be well worth it.

See the iconic Hallgrimskirkja Church.  The largest church in the country, it towers over the center of Reykjavík at 240 feet high.  Entry to the church is free.  If you want to go up to the top of the tower, there is an elevator and it costs $8 for adults, and $1 for children.  Open 9-5 daily in summer.  I skipped the elevator.  All those great photos you’ll see on the interwebs of the colorful houses of Reykjavik from above, they were all taken from the top of the church.

Penetrate the mysteries of the Phallological Museum.  The what?  The Penis Museum.  This fascinating museum was first erected in 1997.   It’s not hard to see why people are stimulated by the size of the collection.  You’d be nuts to miss it.  Best museum gift shop ever.  Open 9am to 6pm in summer.  Entry is $15 for everyone 14+, kids under 13 free.  This was one of the BIG highlights of my visit to Reykjavik.  I considered bringing along my boys (age 6 and 9), but thought the better of it, as their explosions of laughter would have ruined the library-like silence inside the museum.  The owner takes it all very seriously, and has many, many animal species represented.  But really, everyone is there to see this piece de resistance, the sperm whale.  For perspective, I’m 6’1″ and 180.  Yikes!

Visit the Tales from Iceland Museum, a cool little museum with 14 different 5 minute videos on Icelandic culture.  Coffee and cookies served while you watch.  A great way to spend an hour learning about the country.  Open 9-5 daily.  Entry: Adults $18, Children $9, Whole family $42.

Iceland on a Budget -Ways to Save Outside the city:

Bathe in the warmth of the Blue Lagoon. 

Hours vary by season, but it is open at least from 8am to 9pm.  Entry starts at $57 for people 14 and over.  It goes up to $97 during peak hours (basically anytime you’d really want to be there).  Children 2-13 are free with an adult.  Babies are not allowed.

We went to the Blue Lagoon solely because Lonely Planet lists it as the 93rd greatest sight on Earth.  Would I agree?  No.

It is very pleasant.  Lovely, in fact.  It is a top notch facility with friendly and helpful staff, and a modern pool well-integrated into a natural volcanic rock background.  But is it one of the 100 greatest sights on Earth?  Or worth $70-$90 just to soak in a glorified hot tub?  Absolutely not.  I have to mark it down as one of the top tourist traps I’ve ever been to worldwide.  It’s right up there with Times Square New York, and the Blarney Stone in Ireland.  It’s one of those places that capitalized on a catchy name, premium service, and Instagram worthy scenery.  A place that no locals ever go to.  But, I am an obsessive list-checker-offer, so I had to go.  If you are visiting Iceland on a budget, let me urge you to NOT feel like it is a must-do.

A good alternative would be to plunge into the Laugardalur geothermal pools.  One of the largest pools in Iceland, it has Olympic size indoor and outdoor pools, seven geothermal hot tubs, a gym, beach volleyball, running tracks, and a 300 foot water slide.  Open 630am to 10pm daily.  Entry is $8 for adults, $1.33 for kids 6-17, free 0-5 and 67+.

Take a full-day Golden Circle Tour

If you only do one tour in your time in Iceland, it should be this one.  See the Geysir area, where geysers bubble and explode, the thunderous Gullfoss waterfall, and visit Thingvellir National Park.  Grey Line Tours can take you to all three sites on a 7 hour tour with an English speaking guide for just $56.

If i was traveling alone, I would have been on the tour bus, but since I was traveling as a family of four, the math said a rental car was the way to go.  None of these sites charge an entrance fee, but the DO charge for parking.  So, if you were traveling alone in a rental car, you’d be paying for the car – $45, and gas – $15, and two parking fees of $4 and $6, for a total of $70.

The Golden Circle is really a fantastic day of sightseeing.  Not just for the three main sights, but getting out and seeing the countryside’s mixture of electric green grass, and jet-black volcanic rock is lovely.  If you do the drive clockwise, you’ll reach Thingvellir National Park first.  It’s quite amazing to think that you can walk in between the North American and European tectonic plates in this narrow canyon.  And then when you learn the history of the location, as the first meeting place of an Icelandic government a thousand years ago, you can almost feel the ghosts of the past.  There is a scenic path to a waterfall, and lots of placards explaining the history.

The next stop is Geysir, which is a…geyser that shoots steaming water 50 feet into the air every ten minutes.  This area is the the home of the “original” geyser (long since extinct).  Europeans had never seen a geyser before the Vikings came to Iceland.  Their word for the phenomenon is now the standard word for it all over the world.

If you’ve never seen a geyser, it is certainly an amazing thing to witness.  If you’ve been to Yellowstone National Park and seen Old Faithful, well, it’s about the same.

The final main stop on the tour is Gulfoss waterfall.  This did not disappoint!  This huge waterfall blasts through several levels culminating in a deep drop into a canyon.  It’s right up there with the best waterfalls I’ve ever seen.  This was the highlight of the Golden Circle.  We stayed here quite a while just watching the water crash onto the rocks.

Some tours also stop at the Kerio Crater, a colorful remnant of a volcanic explosion.  Entry is just 400 krona for folks 12 and older.  You can walk all the way around the rim on a little trail.

Iceland on a Budget – Tour The South Coast of Iceland

After the Kerio Crater, instead of turning back to Reykjavik, we continued to the coast, via Selfoss.  Selfoss is a decent sized town of 8000, with a Kronor grocery store, which we used to stock up on food for the next few days.  We did not eat out at a single restaurant the entire time we spent in Iceland, but we made excellent dinners at the AirBnB’s we stayed at, with reasonably priced food from Kronor and Bonus stores.

We spent our second night in Iceland at a gorgeous horse farm in the sleepy seaside fishing village of Eyrarbakki.  Our AirBnB here was $260 for the night, and that was actually the cheapest place in the region with enough beds for four!

I bundled up in the 49 degree afternoon summer weather, and enjoyed a Viking Stout on the porch.  I listened to the thunder of horses hooves, while I caught up on what Rick Steves says we should do next.  Rick is always right.

Lindso attempted to get through a $10 bottle of Brennivin mixed with Sprite.  Brennivin is just awful.

Iceland on a Budget – Visit the Westmann Islands

After a day in Reykjavik, and a day doing the Golden Circle, we headed east on day three to visit the Westmann Islands.  Our first stop, an hour into the drive, is the excellent Seljalandsfoss waterfall.  You can walk BEHIND the falls if you don’t mind getting soaked.  It’s a really beautiful waterfall, and easy to get to.  It’s just a mile or so off the Ring Road.  The parking fee is 700 krona ($6)

After the waterfall, it’s just a short drive to the ferry port at Landeyjahöfn.  The Westman Islands ferry is surprisingly cheap by Icelandic standards.  For $91, we got round-trip tickets for two adults, two children, AND could take our car on board!  The ferry is big and comfortable.  You can sit up top in the open air and see the steep cliffs of the islands as they pass.  Or, you can sit below in a dark movie theater and watch Friends re-runs.  There is a cafe with beer and burgers.  The ride only takes 35 minutes.  Be sure to go up top to see the stunning entry into Vestmannaeyjar harbor.

We absolutely LOVED the island of Heimaey.  After driving off the ferry, we walked around the tiny town.  There’s not a whole lot going on.  Only 4,500 people live on the island, but 8 million puffins!

We spent two days here, just driving around the island, and stopping at every photo opportunity, of which there were soooo many.  We stopped to pet sheep, to walk on black sand beaches, and to pick wildflowers.  It’s a mountainous, volcanic island, with a high point of 700 feet, so there are lots of amazing views.  It’s like a mini-Iceland, where you can do a little bit of everything within ten miles.

In 1973, a volcanic eruption began on Heimaey.   The ground split open and lava shot into the sky.  Lava headed toward the harbor, and threatened to close it forever.  During the night, all 5,000 inhabitants of the island had to be evacuated.  A few remaining townspeople sprayed the lava with cold seawater, causing some to solidify and be diverted, thus saving the harbor.   Half of the town’s houses were crushed and the island expanded in length.   Today, you can visit the excellent Volcano Museum and see how it all happened.  My boys really enjoyed seeing an actual house covered by ash.  It’s $19 for adults, and free for kids under 10.

On Heimaey Island we stayed in yet another AirBnB.  This one was a tiny cabin outside of the town, with a million dollar view.  It had three comfy bunk beds wedged perfectly into one tiny bedroom.  At $200 a night it wasn’t a bargain, but it was our favorite place of the trip.

Iceland on a Budget- Drive out to the Jokulsarlon Glacier

On day five, we left the lovely Westman Islands behind for the long drive out to the Jokulsarlon Glacier.  And it really is a loooong drive.  Iceland only has 340,000 people, and 140,000 of those are in or around Reykjavik.  That leaves only 200,000 people for a large island the size of the state of Maine.  Now, for reference,  Maine is far from urban, but it packs 1.3 million people into its hinterlands.  Iceland feels very empty.  You can drive an hour without passing a single village or gas station, or anything.  And Jokulsarlon is a good 5-6 hours drive from Reykjavik.

We passed several waterfalls early on in the drive, some little ones, and some big ones, like the stunning Skogafoss.

Not much further along is the unusual Reynisfjara Beach, and its basalt columns.

And we stopped in the tiny town of Vik for lunch.

Finally we reached the glacier!  Jokulsarlon is a glacier melting into a large lake, which opens to the ocean.  Icebergs the size of houses float towards the sea and break into smaller chunks.

The main tour everyone does here is an Amphibious Boat Tour.  You climb onto this contraption, and it drives straight into the glacial lake.  You motor around, and the guide grabs a tiny iceberg from the water for everyone to hold, and even taste.  The boat doesn’t get too close to the big icebergs for safety reasons.  The whole thing only lasts about 20 minutes.  For my family of four it cost $130.  Pricey, but the kids enjoyed it.

After your boat tour, there are food trucks lined up where you can get soup, seafood, fish n chips, burgers.  There isn’t a town nearby, so you better fill up here if you are heading back to Reykjavik.

At the opening of the glacial lake to the ocean is Diamond Beach.  It’s called that because the smaller chunks of icebergs float up onto this black sand beach like little diamonds.  What an amazing sight!  Seals were cavorting just offshore as the ice washed up.  The kids had fun chucking the ice back into the ocean, and calling out to the seals.

After a long day of driving, we opted for a nearby place to sleep, before heading back to the airport on our last day.  There are VERY few lodging options around Jokulsarlon, and what there is, is VERY expensive.  The only reasonable deal we could find was the Hvoll Hostel.  It was clean, comfortable, and located in an open field with mountain views.  We paid an outrageous $230 for a tiny “family room” with 4 beds, and a shared bathroom.  But, hey, what can you do, that’s Iceland for you.

We really enjoyed the whole trip out to Jokulsarlon, but it was one heck of a tiring drive.  It took up the better part of two days stuck in a little car.  It might be worth considering the Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon Full-Day Tour, which takes you to all these sights, and includes the boat tour for $136.  If I had it to do over again, I would not have done the drive, it was just too much for a five day trip.

Iceland on a Budget – Know Before You Go:

Backpacker Daily Budget: 

$95.  Gulp.  Really.  Reykjavik is among the ten most expensive cities in the world to visit.  Everything here is downright PAINFULLY expensive.  $32 for a hostel bed.  $20 for a hamburger.  $10 beers.  It’s the perfect place to go on that diet you’ve been considering, or to finally take up camping.

Cheap Beer Index:

$6.02  It is possible to get a beer for as little as 750 kroner in some places at happy hour.  Download the Appy Hour app which lists active happy hour times and prices at over 30 locations.  It’s not 100% accurate, but it will give you a general idea of what’s on offer.  Sadly, a more usual price for a beer is at least 1200kr or $10US!

Many Icelanders opt to “pre-game” by drinking at home before going out to the bars and clubs late.  You can do the same by hitting the duty free shop in the airport on your way in, or visiting the government owned liquor stores “Vin Budin”.  There is a Vin Budin in any major town, and prices are the same countrywide.  They are closed on Sundays, and in small towns often open only a few hours a day, so check ahead of time.  Here you can get a 12oz can of local beer for $2-3, and  a bottle of wine starts at $10.

Iceland on a Budget – When to visit: 

Iceland is a completely different destination in summer than in winter.

Reykjavik summers are short, cool, and cloudy. July and August are the warmest months with average highs peaking at only 57 degrees.  June and September are still nice, getting into the 50’s.  You’ll have amazing amounts of daylight each day, with a sunset at midnight, and a 3am sunrise, for over 21 hours of sun on June 21!  Of course everyone else also wants to be here in summer, so prices are at their peak, and booking lodging ahead is essential.

Late May or early September are excellent times to come if you need to save money.  Lodging prices drop a little, but the weather is still pretty good with highs of 50.

Winters are long, dark, cold, wet, and windy. The coldest average high in the winter is 36 for all of December, January and February.  Not too much snow sticks around, more rain.  It’s going to be dark.  On December 22, you’ll only have 4 hours of daylight!  The one big draw for coming here in winter is the Northern Lights.  They can be visible October through April, with the best opportunity in December and January.  Another plus is that lodging is much cheaper.  If you are on a really tight budget, and don’t mind cold, you can save a lot in winter.

What languages are spoken?  

Icelandic is the national language, but English is also spoken by literally everyone.

Do you need a visa?

Visas are not required for nationals of USA, UK, Australia, and Canada.  You can stay for 90 days visa-free.

How to Travel to Iceland on a Budget – Getting in, getting out:

There are two ways to get to Reykjavik, by air and by sea:

By Airplane: 99% of visitors fly into Iceland.  Reykjavik-Keflavik International Airport (KEF) has flights to cities all over Europe and North America.  Airfare might be the only thing that is cheap about your Icelandic vacation.  The best option for cheap flights to Iceland is Icelandair, now that WOW Air has gone bankrupt.  You can also get a FREE stopover here on Icelandair.  That way you can incorporate a few days in Iceland into a longer European trip.  This saves you a separate dedicated round-trip flight.

But even if you are buying a ticket just to Iceland, the fares are quite reasonable, usually cheaper than any other European destination.  Last I checked, fares were going for as low as $220 from Boston, $250 from Newark, $378 from Washington.  Consider booking with a cheap direct flight with one of these two airlines, and then booking a separate domestic fare to get to the Icelandair departure city from your home airport.  Learn how to get to Iceland for free on my page:  Nine Steps to Free Flights Worldwide.

Pro Tip:  Keflavik has a duty free store right in baggage claim!  It has the cheapest prices on alcohol of anywhere in Iceland.  If you can juggle any extra bags, you should shop here.  There is also a legit ATM after you exit customs, and a coffee shop/convenience store.  Avoid the airside ATMs!!  They are the dreaded Euronet rip-off exchange rate ATMs.

By Smyril Line Ferry: A passenger & car ferry called the Norröna sails from Hirtshals in northern Denmark to Torshavn in the Faeroe Islands & Seydisfjördur in Iceland, roughly once a week between April & October.  The voyage from Denmark to Iceland aboard the Norröna takes 2 or 3 nights depending on the sailing schedule.  Note: The port of call is Seydisfjördur, on the west end of Iceland, a 9 hour drive from Rekjavik.  The ship has bunk beds, cabins and restaurants.

How to Travel to Iceland on a Budget – Getting around:

Keflavik Airport Shuttle It is a 45 minute drive from Keflavik Airport into the city.  Do NOT just hop in a taxi, unless you want to be presented with a $200+ bill at the end!  There are transfer buses available:

Flybus shuttles depart 35-40 minutes after the arrival of each flight.  If your flight is delayed, the bus will wait for it.  Your ticket is valid on any bus, so if you do somehow miss a bus, you just take the next one. There is no luggage restriction.  When you purchase your ticket online, you want to choose a drop-off at your hotel.  A one-way transfer from Keflavik direct to your hotel is $33 for adults 16+, $17 for kids 12-15, and free for kids 11 and under.  You can get a cheaper ticket for $24, but that only gets you to the BSI bus station on the edge of the city, and then you’ll still have to spring for an expensive taxi ride.

Public bus #55 goes from KEF to the city, but on an infrequent schedule that might not match up with your flight.  A ticket is $16.

Rental Car: if you don’t mind driving, a rental car is almost certainly the way to go.  Tiny micro-compact cars start at about $40 a day.  Gas is the same price at every gas station in Iceland, currently a shocking $7.20 per US gallon!   However, a Golden Circle bus tour is $56 x 2 people = $112, so you can rent a car, with gas, for cheaper than that.  Rentalcars.com has the best deals for rentals in Iceland.  I found this little Hyundai i10 with manual transmission for $200 for five days.  Not cheap, but not too far off what you’d pay elsewhere. The thing had only 66 horsepower, and couldn’t make it up hills except in 3rd gear, BUT it got 48 miles per gallon, which was VERY appreciated with Iceland’s gas prices. I ended up going with ACErebsjwd

• • You should be aware of some special insurance situations in Iceland, they’ll try to sell you sandstorm insurance, which I guess happens a lot on the South Coast.  I declined it and lucked out.
  • Speed limits throughout Iceland are lower than in many other countries.  The fastest limit is 90kph (56mph).  I only ever saw 2 or 3 police cars my whole trip.
  • Headlights must be on at all times.
  • No right turns on a red light.
  • You must yield to the driver on the right at four-way intersections.
  • You must give way to drivers in the inside lane in roundabouts.  This will happen often in Reykjavik.
  • Seatbelts are required for all passengers, even those in the back seat.
  • Cell phones cannot be used without a hands-free headset.
  • Iceland has a very low accepted drunk driving blood alcohol level; .05 per cent. If you’re caught above that, you’ll have your drivers lisence confiscated, and be forced to pay a $600 fine.  Police who are suspicious of a driver give a breathalyzer test, followed by a blood test, which cannot be refused.

Uber and all other ride sharing companies are banned in Iceland.

Public buses will get you to all the towns of Iceland, but they won’t get you to any of the geysers, waterfalls, or fjords.  They aren’t really a viable option for tourists with no other form of transport.

Tour buses are the best option for single travelers, or any folks who really don’t want to get behind the wheel.

Local Currency and how to get it:

Icelandic Krona (124 ISK = $1 as of July 2019) are available at numerous ATMs.   However, Iceland is a cashless economy, so there is no need to withdraw much (or any) Krona.  Credit cards can be used for all purchases.  In fact, many purchases can ONLY be done by credit or debit card.  I sat at a bar and watched customer after customer order a single drink and pay by simply holding a contactless credit card up to a purchase point.  No tipping.  No signatures.  Not even a pin entry.  Iceland is a bit ahead of the US.  For more info on your cash-versus-credit card options when travelling, check out my post on How to Access your Money in Foreign Countries.

Stay Connected:

Iceland has three telecom operators:

• Síminn – priciest and best coverage countrywide.  They sell a voice & data starter called Síminn Prepaid Starter Pack for 2900 ISK ($24). It contains 50 domestic minutes, 50 domestic SMS and 5 GB of data.  Available at the duty-free shop close to the baggage claim in Keflavík airport.
• Vodafone – cheaper but still sufficient if you stick mainly to populated areas.  Their voice & data prepaid SIM is sold for 2,000 ISK ($17) containing unlimited domestic calls plus 1 GB of data for 30 days.  You can get it in Keflavik airport at the 10-11 shop in the arrival hall, and the Elko stores.
• Nova – cheapest and good if you only stay around Reykjavik.  No shop at the airport.

If you have a European SIM, you are all set.  Iceland is not part of the EU, but IS in the larger EEA, where from June 2017 new international roaming rules are enforced. In most European countries you can now ‘roam like at home’ at domestic rates rather than excessive roaming rates.

Free Wi-fi is readily available all over Iceland.  Try downloading the app Wiman to find it.  For more info on your telecom options, check out my post on How to Get Cheap Mobile Phone Service Worldwide.

How to Travel to Iceland on a Budget – Where to stay in Reykjavik:  

When dorm beds start at $32 a night (and go up to $95), you know you are in a pricey place.  Icelandic hostels don’t even include sheets, usually charging $10 extra for them!  Bringing a sleeping bag could save you the price of the bag within a week.  Breakfast is almost never included, but may be offered for $10 to $20.   Camping is a cheaper option, even right in Reykjavik.

If there are more than two of you, you should look into AirBnB options.  AirBnB has really taken off here, as locals are getting in on the tourism bonanza (much to the consternation of their neighbors).  Book early.  Iceland is a hot destination now, and things fill up months ahead of time.

Here are the absolute cheapest places to sleep in Reykjavik (with one insane $95 hostel thrown in for comparison.)

• Reykjavik Campsite is the cheapest option in the city at $20 per person, per night.  Children under 13 stay free with adult supervision. Reservations are not required in advance and space can not be reserved.  This massive field is just a mile out of the city center, can hold 900 people, and is next door to one of Iceland’s largest and most popular geothermal swimming pools.  You get free WIFI in the hostel lounge, hot showers 24hrs, access to kitchen and hot water, bookings and pick up for excursions and car rentals.
• Bus Hostel is located next to the main bus station, which is actually very convenient for going on tours.  They provide bikes so you can ride into downtown in 15 minutes.  They have dorm beds for $32.
• Reykjavík Hostel Village dorm rooms have a mini fridge, desk and shared bathroom. Dorm beds are $33.
• Retro Hostel is in the East Reykjavik neighborhood and has dorm beds for $39.
• Galaxy Pod Hostel is a futuristic hostel with Japanese-style pod sleeping capsules.  The pods have flat screen tv’s, wi-ri, locking curtains for privacy.  Pods are $60.
• At Reykjavik Downtown Hostel bed linen is included and an organic breakfast buffet is served every day.  Fair-trade coffee is available in the bar.  Dorm beds are a steal at just $95 a night!!!!  Seriously.  Hostel beds.  For $95. (I’m including this just for laughs)

How to Do an Iceland Trip on a Budget – Where to eat: 

All restaurants are going to be ludicrously expensive by most standards.  A meal for two with appetizers and no alcohol can easily run you $100, killing your Iceland budget.  Your best bet for budget travel is to stock up in a supermarket and do some home cooking.  Among the store options, two chains stand out for value and selection.  The Bonus supermarket chain with the pink pig sign has the cheapest prices, and even has the same prices out in the smaller towns.  The other option is Kronan chain with the dancing coin mascot, which has less stores nationwide.  Expect to pay twice as much for anything from the ubiquitous 10/11 convenience stores.

We ended up shopping at Kronan several twice, and found everything we needed for snacks and dinners at reasonable prices.

While any sit-down restaurant bill is going to dent your wallet, there are some fast-food options that are tasty but reasonably priced.  Here are some of the most popular:

• Subway – You can get a 12 inch sub starting at $11 for a veggie.
• Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur, which means “the best hot dog in town”. Icelanders love hot dogs.  Bill Clinton ate one here.  Ask for the ‘the works’ and get ketchup, sweet mustard, onions, and remolaði, a mayonnaise-based sweet relish.  A hot dog and coke combo is $6.  With all the interesting sauces they have here, it was delicious.
• Noodle Station  a noodle soup dish with vegetables costs $12
• Hlölla bátar makes the best subs for $5 to $8, and burgers for $12-$14.
• Aktu Taktu sells good fast food burgers for $10.
• Mandi has cheap middle eastern food.  You can get kebabs, falafel and hummus for under $10
• Vöffluvagninn sells belgian waffles with whipped cream for $5-$8.
• Grocery stores such as Bonus, Netto, Kronan sell pre-made sandwiches, wraps and Skyr yogurt for cheaper than anywhere else.
• IKEA – Yes, the furniture store!  It has a cheap and popular diner inside that even serves beer.

How to Travel Iceland on a Budget – Nightlife: 

Reykjavik has loads of nightlife.  You’ll find bars with craft beer, wine bars, cocktail bars, and many clubs that pump until 5am.  (Be sure to try Brennivin!)  There is ZERO nightlife outside of the capitol.  Don’t be fooled into thinking the city is dead because the bars are empty at 11pm.  Many people “pre-game” by drinking at home, and don’t hit the bars until midnight.  It’s common for bars and clubs to still be packed at 4 am on Friday and Saturday, with most closing around 5-6am.   Sunday to Thursday bars will close around 1am.  I wished I had been in town on the days that the Beer Tasting and Tapas Tour is offered, but I missed it.

There are far too many great venues to list, but here are a few that i visited on my own personal pub crawl:

Bravó at Laugavegur 22 has a small bar seating area, and lots of cushiony table seating along big windows facing the main street.  I really enjoyed sitting here with a couple of Viking Stout beers for 800 krona during happy hour.

Kaffibarinn  on Bergstaðastræti 1  I had an excellent Kaldi Dark Lager here for 800 kroner.  It’s a bright, friendly place with a DJ spinning subdued house music.

Lebowski Bar has happy hour from 4-7, where I got a pint of Guinness for 850 krona and watched some Women’s World Cup soccer on their massive TV in the back.  The entire bar is decked out in The Big Lebowski movie themed memorabilia.

Dillon Whiskey Bar has happy hour from 4-8.  For 850 krona I got a tasteless Gull lager, and sat outside in their backyard.

The Dubliner has an endless happy hour from Noon til 10pm.  In this boisterous bar with a pool table and lots of TV’s, I got another crummy Gull Lager for 750 Krona.

My last stop was the Drunk Rabbit. They had excellent live music in a packed little space, and I enjoyed a fantastic Einstok Toasted Porter for a painful 1200 krona.

Get a guidebook:

I really liked the Rick Steves Iceland guidebook.  Rick knows Europe.  And he knows budget travel.  He makes very specific itinerary recommendations and isn’t afraid to tell you what stuff is worth skipping.  I appreciate the honesty.

How to Travel to Iceland on a Budget – What to pack:

Here is what to wear in Iceland:  You are going to need some extra layers for the cold and rain, and you REALLY don’t want to have to buy them in Iceland at crazy prices.

• A rain jacket.
• A sweater or coat
• Some decent hiking shoes.  Flip flops aren’t going to cut it here.
• A knit hat for windy cold days.
• swimwear and a towel for thermal baths
• a drybag or waterproof cover for your electronics that are going to be around waterfalls, rain, or ocean.
• An eye mask for trying to sleep when its very bright out at 4am.

To learn how to pack light and be prepared for anything, check out my post The Worldwide Travel Packing List.

Is it safe?

Yes, Iceland has one of the lowest crime rates in the world.

Be sensible around geysers, which erupt and can burn you.  Avoid stepping or falling into a hot spring or boiling mud pool which can burn or kill you.

People have slipped to their death near rocky waterfalls, and have been swept into the ocean trying to get wave selfies at rough beaches.

Traveling Iceland on a Budget – Roundup of Top Travel Tips:

• Consider visiting in the shoulder season: May or September.
• Look for cheap flights on Icelandair.
• Pack everything you’ll need, so you don’t have to buy anything in Iceland.
• If there are two of you, rent a car rather than paying for multiple tours.
• Consider camping, check out hostels, try AirBnB.
• Buy your food and alcohol at Bonus or Kronor grocery stores.
• Try some good fast-food options.
• Bring a water bottle, to refill for free and save 10, 000 ISK on drinks
• Download the Appy Hour app which lists active happy hour times and prices at over 30 locations.

THANKS FOR READING

Full Disclosure: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links.  This means that if you buy anything, I’ll earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. I only link to stuff I use, love, and recommend.  I don’t accept bribes to endorse garbage. Your clicks help keep this site alive.

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“The Best Maui Nightlife” will take you bar-hopping for mai-tai’s and microbrews in the fun and funky bars of the Kihei Kalama Village!

Kihei Kalama Village is THE best spot for Maui nightlife.

As a longtime resident of Kihei, I can state this with certainty.  Folks looking for the best Maui nightlife drive in to Kihei from Kahului, Wailuku, and Wailea on Friday and Saturday nights to enjoy it.  The action is centered around the Kihei Kalama Village, which is more commonly known as the “Barmuda Triangle” or to locals just “The Triangle.”  This place has eight bars that are all just a short walk apart, with plenty of parking available onsite. The crowd will be a mix of locals and tourists depending on the bar and the time of night.

When to go?

From 4pm til around 10pm, the bars and restaurants are full of tourists fresh off their whale watching tours.  Every night, but especially Friday and Saturday nights, a huge wave of locals take over from 10pm til closing time at 130am.   The area is safe, with many bouncers and private security guards onsite. You can easily hop from bar to bar to bar, until you find just the right spot.  Which bar is best?  That’s really up to you.  Each offers something a little different.  Just take a walk and check ’em all out!  All the bars listed below are at 1913 South Kihei Road.

Which bar has the best Maui nightlife for your style?

What Ales You is a craft beer bar with over a dozen really excellent beers on tap.  It is unquestionably the best place for microbrews.  Closes “early” at 10pm, so this is the place to start your night with some great IPA’s or saisons or stouts, before downgrading to Bud Lite somewhere else.  They have a cold air-conditioned bar section, and also a hip open air section with couches.   Tues-Sun 11:00AM – 10:00PM; Mon 3:00PM – 10:00PM

Three’s Bar and Grill This restaurant/bar has the best food in the Triangle.  It has become VERY popular and the wait list to get a seat can be long.  I really love the food here, and I’m sad that their secret is out, so I can rarely get a seat here anymore.  Also closes “early” at 10pm, so eat here, then party elsewhere.  Mon-Fri 8:30AM – 10:00PM; Sat-Sun 8:00AM – 10:00PM; They also have the best happy hour (3-6PM & 9-10PM) for food in Kihei with their delicious appetizers half off, and $4 14oz / $6.50 20oz microbrew draft beers, $3.75 for well drinks, house margarita, or house mai tai.

Dog and Duck Irish Pub  This cozy Irish bar has multiple TVs tuned to ESPN, with a full menu and bar. It has great drink specials. 16oz Bud Lite draft is always $3.  Service is fast and friendly.  This bar feels like home to me.  Always my first stop for some rocking Kihei Kalama Village nightlife. Thursday night at 7pm is their very popular Trivia Night.  If you go, my team is gonna beat you.  Mon-Fri 11:00AM – 2:00AM; Sat-Sun 8:00AM – 2:00AM; Happy Hour 3-7PM

South Shore Tiki Lounge  This tiki-themed restaurant/bar has the best pizza in Kihei, and a live guitar/singer every day 4-6pm. Their small open air dance floor gets packed around midnight on weekends, with local DJs spinning top 40 club jams.  Probably the hottest party spot late night on weekends.  Everyday 11:00AM – 2:00AM; Happy Hour 11AM-6PM has $3 Primo draft, and $4 for Pacifico drafts, Sauza Margaraitas, premium well drinks, and Bloody Marys.

Haui’s Life’s a Beach Locally known as the LAB.  Has a nice patio right in South Kihei Road where you can watch the world go by.  Lots of big TV’s tuned to sports, a Golden Tee golf game, and a pool table.  They have a super-cheap happy hour, and lots of LOUD live music. Amongst all the Kihei Kalama Village nightlife, LAB is THE place for karaoke.  The place fills up on Thursday nights after 10pm with wanna-be rock stars.  Hosts a budget-conscious local crowd. Everyday 11:00AM – 2:00AM; Open early for NFL games.

Lava Rock Bar and Grill is a huge open air bar/restaurant on the second floor at the back of the Triangle.  The only bar with ocean views.  Biggest dance floor in the Triangle, and two pool tables.  Sixteen 55″ TV’s showing sports.  16 beers on tap.  Everyday 8:00AM – 1:30AM;  Happy Hour 3-6PM AND 9-11pm has $3 beer specials, $4 drafts.

Kahale’s “Maui’s Local Dive Bar” is sort of a biker bar, but not in an unfriendly way. Hosts an older, local crowd age 30-60.  Most tourists give Kahale’s a pass, but it’s worth a stop.  Serves inexpensive microwavable bar food.  Lots of live music playing 70s and 80s covers.  Everyday 10:00AM – 2:00AM

VIBE Bar and Nightclub is a dark bar with a tiny dance floor and comfy couches. Hosts a mixture of young LGBT and straight clientele.  This is a great place to get some dancing in, or just enjoy some cold air conditioning and comfy seating.  Friendly service and just an all-around positive “vibe” in here.  Open everyday 7:00PM – 1:30AM  “Power Hour” from 7pm to 8pm on Sunday thru Thursday has 50% off all drinks.

More awesome nightlife spots NOT in the Triangle:

Sansei – Sansei Seafood Restaurant & Sushi Bar is the king of sushi in Kihei, but it is also is a bit of a nightlife spot.  They have a late-night happy hour from 10pm til closing that offers 50% off sushi.  And they have karaoke on Saturdays.  Folks that have worked up an appetite across the parking lot at “The Triangle” will pop over to Sansei for some sake bombs, kick-ass sushi, and a turn on the microphone.  Open 5:30pm to 10pm nightly.  On Thursday-Friday-Saturday nights they stay open til 1am-ish.

Maui Brewing Company – This place probably needs no introduction.  What started out as a small craft brewery with a good restaurant over on the West Side, has grown into The Behemoth of All Maui Beer.  Its Kihei tasting room opens at 11am, gets packed with tourists at sunset, and closes early at 10pm.  The beers are great, but you won’t find many deals here, with Wailea prices starting at $6.75 a pint.  Happy hour from 3-6pm drops the price to $5.75.  You won’t find many locals here.

Diamonds – This place feels like your friendly neighborhood bar.  Located in the Azeka Plaza, it’s the northernmost nightlife spot in Kihei.  Under the same ownership as the Dog and Duck, they have good beer specials, great DJs and live bands, and just a mellow place to hang out.  They do a roaring business once a month for Kihei Fourth Friday.

Freds/Moose McGillicuddy’s – These two bar/restaurants are literally on top of each other, Fred’s on the ground floor, and Moose’s on the second floor.  Both are under the same ownership, and both have good food, and a great view of Kamaole II Beach.  Both have lots of TVs for watching the big game.   Just the other day I had the best margarita in Kihei from Freds, and some nachos, and then walked across the street to swim at Kam II and take in the sunset.

The Best Maui Nightlife Spots OUTSIDE of Kihei:

If you’ve chosen to stay on the west side in Lahaina or Kaanapali, there are still a couple of good options for Maui nightlife.  Most locals from the west side are making road trips to Kihei when they really want to party.  But, a huge number of Maui hotels and condos are located over in Kaanapali, and there are a couple of fun places worth checking out.

The Old Lahaina Luau – This is the best Luau on Maui for real Hawaiian cultural performances AND great food.  Come here first, and then head a mile south to downtown Front Street.

The Dirty Monkey – The only really hopping bar in Lahaina, it packs in the tourists and gets a reliable contingent of locals, especially young folks getting off work in the restaurant/hotel industry.  They have DJ’s, a dance floor, and a view of Front Street.

What is your favorite Maui Nightlife location?  Let us know in the comments!

Want to learn more about Maui and the surrounding islands?  Check out Things to Do in Kihei,  Things to do in Lanai, or Things to Do in Molokai.

THANKS FOR READING

Full Disclosure: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. This means that if you buy anything, I’ll earn a small commission at no cost to you. I only link to stuff I use, love, and recommend. I don’t accept bribes to endorse garbage. Your clicks help keep this site alive.

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10 Amazing Things To Do in Lanai will get you on board the ferry from Maui, into the seat of a 4×4 jeep tour, underwater snorkeling with dolphins, and exploring isolated beaches and WWII shipwrecks.

by Worldwide Wilbur June 2019

As a longtime Maui resident, and a frequent visitor to Lanai, I have explored all over this beautiful island.  I’ve narrowed things down to the ten most amazing things to do in Lanai, and share them below.  But first, let’s learn some facts about this unique Hawaiian island.

Who Owns Lanai?

Can you imagine what it would be like to own a Hawaiian island? Just ask Larry Ellison. The founder of Oracle, and seventh richest man in the world, bought 97% of the island of Lanai for the bargain price of 300 million dollars in 2012. Larry now owns both of the Four Seasons Resorts, a championship golf course, and more than 88,000 acres of land.

You might not be a billionaire in a position to buy an island, but you are more than welcome to visit his. Lovely Lanai, “The Pineapple Island” is open for business. It offers some of the most high-end luxury vacation opportunities in all of Hawaii. Bill Gates famously rented out every room on the island and every helicopter on Maui to ensure privacy at his 1994 wedding. And, with a little planning, it is possible to enjoy a budget visit as well. I’ll show you what to see and do, and how to afford a weekend on Lanai.

How big is Lanai?

Lanai is the 6th largest of the main Hawaiian islands, just behind Molokai, with 140 square miles.  You could fit 28 Lanai’s into the Big Island of Hawaii!   It has just 3100 people, nearly all of whom live in little Lanai City in the center of the island.  It has a high school, a small hospital, but no stoplights.

The island has been populated by the Hawaiian people for over a thousand years.  The first Europeans sighted it in 1779.  Soon after, European, American, and Asian people came to Lanai to farm and serve as missionaries.  In 1922, James Dole, President of Dole Pineapple Company, bought the island for just over one million dollars.  For 70 years it became one of the largest pineapple plantations in the world, garnering the name “The Pineapple Island”.  The plantations last harvest ended in 1992, and tourism has been the mainstay of the economy ever since.

10 Amazing Things To Do in Lanai:

#1 Go Off-Road on a 4×4 Jeep Tour

Some of the best sights of Lanai simply can’t be reached by car. You need to get off the pavement and onto the dirt with a jeep. Then you can see the Garden of the Gods, a strangely beautiful land of colorful rock formations, the Munro Trail Lookout, where you can see breathtaking views of deep canyons, and Shipwreck Beach, with its wreckage of a massive World War II fuel tanker, and nearby ancient petroglyphs.  Wildlife abounds on Lanai, as you might spot axis deer, wild turkey, pheasant, as well as corrals of horses, goats, and sheep.

Expeditions Ferry offers a full-day guided jeep tour, including ferry service from Lahaina Maui. You’ll get to all the above spots, as well as visiting Hulopo’e Beach, the Four Seasons Manele Bay, Lanai City, and The Lodge at Koele.

#2 Snorkel with Dolphins at Hulopoe Beach

It takes a lot of patience and some luck, but it can be done. A pod of little spinner dolphins cruises back and forth along the Hulopoe Bay each day. If you are willing to sit with snorkel mask and fins in hand, and eyes on the horizon, you just might get to meet them. You’ll have to dash into the water and head for where they will be, not where they are, cause they swim a LOT faster than you. You won’t be able to catch them, and even if you could it is illegal to “harass” dolphins. But if you get close enough they’ll see you, and if they are in the mood, they’ll pop over to say hello. That moment a fellow mammal looks you straight in the eye…is magical.

Even if you don’t get to meet a dolphin, Hulopoe Beach is a wonderfully scenic location to hang out, swim, snorkel, and have a barbeque. The waves are calmest in summer, which is the best time for both swimming and snorkeling. The beach is just about perfect, and consistently ranks among the top ten beaches in Hawaii.

#3 Explore the Garden of the Gods

Don’t expect any actual “gardens” here. Instead you’ll be seeing big boulders, reddish orange sand, and outstanding views of Molokai.  At sunset the colors morph into a landscape not unlike Mars. Best reached on foot, mountain bike, or a 4×4 jeep.

#4 Pet a Kitty at the Lanai Cat Sanctuary

The Lanai Cat Sanctuary houses, feeds, spays and neuters over 600 cats! Their hard work has saved the lives of hundreds of feral cats as well as the endangered shorebird population of Lanai. Come spend some time with a kitty, and maybe even take one home. Entry is free, donations accepted. Open every day 10am to 3pm. Located out by the airport.

#5 Hike out to Shipwreck Beach

This is one of the most unique things to do in Lanai, because there are no other Hawaiian islands with major shipwrecks onshore.  Way over on a deserted northeast beach, lies a massive 365 foot WWII tanker beached on the reef just 200 meters offshore. The YOGN-42, a WWII U.S. Navy fuel tanker made of iron and cement, was intentionally scuttled here in 1954. It was taking up space in Pearl Harbor, so the Navy hired a contractor to tow it to the empty coast of Lanai and leave it. 65 years later, it sits still slowly rusting away. And, this is just one of several wrecks along this six-mile long beach. Further along lies the YO-21, a Navy oiler that was present in Pearl Harbor the day of the Japanese attack.

It takes 30 minutes to get here from Lanai City. Take highway 430 out of town. At the sign, turn left onto the dirt road. Park at the end of the dirt road, then walk heading left on the beach. Walk about 10 minutes on the beach and you can view the YOGN-42. A jeep will get you right to the beach. A car will have to be left on the highway, and adds to your hike.

#6 Hike, Bike, or 4×4 the Munro Trail

This is the top choice for active things to do in Lanai.  Starting from Lanai City, this 12.8 mile dirt path/road will take you to Lanai’s highest point, Mount Lanaihale an inactive volcano at 3,366 feet, where (on a clear day) you can see six Hawaiian Islands at once (Lanai, Maui, Molokai, Kahoolawe, Oahu, Hawaii). The views of forests and canyons, towering pines, and white sand beaches are amazing. It can be hiked or mountain biked. Start early. Bring water, a jacket, sunscreen, and a camera. If it has rained recently, it might not be so fun.

Start in Lanai City and head north on Hwy 44. A mile past the Four Seasons Koele, turn right onto the paved road that ends in half a mile at the island’s cemetery. The Munro Trail starts at the end of the road on the left.  The only sign you’ll see is the little one pictured above.

After a long climb, the main trail descends 6 miles to the central plateau. Keep the hills to your left and turn right at the big fork in the road. The trail ends back on Manele Rd (Hwy 440) between Lanaʻi City and Manele Bay. From here you can easily walk downhill a couple of miles to Hulopoe Beach. If you are heading back towards Lanai City, it’s an uphill 5 miles, so maybe walk with your thumb out for a ride.

#7 Venture out to Polihua Beach

This remote two-mile long beach on the desolate north shore is stunningly beautiful. You’ll need a 4×4 vehicle to get there, but the views of Molokai and the solitude make up for the effort. Here you can experience what Hawaii looked like when the first Polynesian sailors arrived hundreds of years ago.

Polihua is 12 miles north of Dole Park in Lanai City. You’ll need a 4×4 jeep or a mountain bike to get there. Head north on Keomuku Hwy. At 1 mile, turn left on Kanepuu hwy, which becomes Awalua hwy, which becomes Polihua rd, which becomes Polihua Trail. You’ll pass the Garden of the Gods along this trail as well. If you are biking, it’s easy on the way out as you drop 1700 feet elevation. Save some energy for the uphill slog back.

#8 Tee off at the Manele Golf Course

Jack Nicklaus designed this stunning seaside 18 hole course formerly known as “The Challenge at Manele”. Lush vegetation, ocean cliffs, and excellent service define this course as one of the best in the world.  Bill Gates got married at the 12th hole tee-box.  Open 730am – 6pm. The only other golf course on Lanai, “The Experience at Koele” has closed permanently.

#9  Appreciate Fine Art at the Mike Carroll Gallery.

This gallery features the beautiful work of Mike Carroll, as well as other local and mainland artists works that feature Lanai.  They also have locally made hand-carved jewelry.  Open 10-5:30 Mon-Sat

#10 Stroll around Lanai City

The best cultural experience of all the things to do in Lanai is to simply visit its only town, and see how people live.  Located in the center of the island, Lanai City is a cool reprieve from the scorching beach. It sits among the shade of towering Cook pines, at 1700 feet of elevation, and feels more like a small town in the Pacific Northwest than a tropical island. It seldom gets much over 80 degrees here, and 50’s are common on winter nights. With only 3000 people, all of its sights are within walking distance, clustered around the grassy open space of Dole Park. While you are there, be sure to:

• Learn about the history of this island at the Lanai Culture and Heritage Center. Open 8:30-3:30 Mon-Fri.

• Do some Hawaiian-style clothes shopping in The Local Gentry. Open 10-6.

• Create something new, or buy a local artists work at the Lanai Art Center

• Get all your gifts for back home at Lanai Hula Hut. 

• Sit under a majestic Cook Pine in Dole Park and watch the clouds drift by.

• Catch a movie at the Hale Keaka Lanai Theater  The historic theater had been shut down since the 1970’s and was just recently restored.
• And beyond all these shops, there are also wonderful athletic facilities open to the public just next to Dole Park.  You’ll find a swimming pool, basketball court, volleyball court, baseball field, soccer/football field, and tennis courts.  Everything is in like-new condition.

Things to do On Lanai – Know Before You Go:

Backpacker Daily Budget:

$78. Lanai is not cheap by any means. The only way to see it on a backpacker budget is by travelling in a group of four, splitting camping fees and car rental. Four people camping at Hulopoe Beach would be $20 per-person per-day. Splitting a rental car will run $25 per-person per-day, plus another $4 for gas. Bring your eggs and dinner cookout supplies from Costco for $10, get a sandwich at Blue Ginger Cafe for lunch in Lanai City for $8. Three beers will run you $12 at Pele’s Other Garden. Entry to all the best natural sites in Lanai are free.

More Budget Tips:

• Instead of renting a car, consider riding a mountain bike. There is no bike rental on island, but you can rent one on Maui and take a bicycle on the Expeditions Ferry for just $10 each way. I brought mine over, and rode it all over the island. You’ll have to be reasonably fit, because the initial climb out of Hulopoe Bay is no joke.  It starts with a back-breaking 1500 foot ascent in just the first 3.2 miles!  If you can survive that, it’s a more mellow 250ft of climbing over the next 4.8 miles to Lanai City.   From Lanai City the ride out to Garden of the Gods isn’t too tough, about 10 miles roundtrip, with only one tough hill by the Lanai Ranch.  But if you ride down to Shipwreck Beach or Polihua Beach, you’ll have to make a massive 1900ft climb a second time on the way back. Biking on Lanai is sooooo much fun. Well marked trails, dirt roads, no traffic.
• Bring all your food and drinks from Costco on Maui. It will be half the price of whatever you can get on Lanai.  The ferry allows large rolling coolers.

Cheap Beer Index:

$4 for a bottle of Bud Lite at Pele’s Other Garden.

Best Time to Visit Lanai:

Anytime is a good time to visit. Lanai has warm weather year round. In my opinion, the best time is January through March for low humidity, and the chance to see whales. But it really depends on your plans:

• The temperature hardly changes. The hottest month is August with highs of 86 and lows of 74. The coolest month is February at 79 and 66.
• Humidity does change: August is the worst at 85% humidity. February and March are the best with low humidity at around 25%. If you like sunny, but not muggy, choose winter.
• Rainfall varies quite a bit. The driest month is June with only 0.5 of an inch. The “wet season” is December through April 15 with averages between 2 and 2.5 inches per month. This isn’t really very much rain, but it is possible to get a week where it rains every single day in these months, particularly January and February.
• Ocean temperatures vary by 5 degrees, peaking at 80 in September, and bottoming out at 75 in March. Visitors will probably judge the ocean to be plenty warm anytime, but as a local, I find it very chilly in March and nice in September. If you plan to spend a lot of time in the water, for snorkeling or SCUBA diving, August-September-October might be the best for you.
• Humpback whales visit in the winter, with peak whale density from January 15 to March 31. You can possibly see one or two as early as October, and as late as May. If you are going on a whale watch, February and March are perfect.
• Surf swells change seasonally. But, Lanai isn’t a good place for surfing anyway.
• Price of accommodations change dramatically throughout the year. Rates peak the week between Christmas and New Year, when every single room on the island is sold out. Room rates are at their lowest in September and October. A typical AirBnB that goes for $300 in January, might be only $200 in October.

What languages are spoken on Lanai?

Everyone speaks English cause Hawaii really is part of the USA. However, folks who grew up here will speak Hawaiian Pidgin to each other. Shoots Brah!

Do you need a U.S. visa?

Americans obviously do not need any papers to come to the 50th state. Canadian visitors do not need a visa, and can stay for 182 days out of a year. AUS and UK visitors need to complete an Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA) before arrival, and then get 90 days to visit.

How to Get to Lanai:

The Ferry from Maui to Lanai:

Expeditions Ferry runs the Lanai ferry from the public dock in Lahaina, Maui to Manele Harbor, Lanai.  The dock is directly in front of the Pioneer Inn on Front Street.  It’s a passenger ferry only, no cars.  Adult tickets are $30 each way, and kids age 2-11 are $20 each way. Under 2’s are free.  You should book online ahead of time as it can sell out.

The ride is usually smooth and takes 45-50 minutes. The ship has air conditioned, plush indoor seating, as well as outdoor seating mostly in the sun on the upper deck.  You have to drag on your own stuff, and there is plenty of room to store it all on racks.  There are bathrooms onboard, and they sell water and soda.  Alcohol cannot be consumed onboard.  If you go between December and March, it’s like getting a free whale watch thrown in! Although, the captains job is to get you across the channel quickly, so he’s not going to stop unless the whale is in the boats path.

PRO TIP: Get to the ferry dock early, because parking is AWWWWWWWFUL in Lahaina. If you have 20 minutes to spare, you can drive around in expanding concentric circles until you find a free parking spot on a distant side road. It might pay off to stalk a tourist walking with big shopping bags. If you show up right before departure, you’ll be stuck parking in one of the overpriced lots by the dock for $10+ per day.

Maui to Lanai Ferry Schedule:

• Ferry from Maui to Lanai at: 6:45am, 9:15am, 12:45pm, 3:15pm, 5:45pm. Tickets are $28.85 adults, $19.23 kids 2-11.
• Ferry from Lanai to Maui at: 8:00am, 10:30am, 2:00pm, 4:30pm, 6:45pm. Tickets are $28.85 adults, $19.23 kids 2-11.

From Manele harbor on Lanai it is 15 minutes by car to Lanai City, and only 3 minutes to the Four Seasons Lanai.  You can easily walk to Hulopoe Bay for the beach or the campground.

Flights to Lanai:

The only airport is Lanai Airport (LNY). It is located in the center of the island, 4 miles away from Lanai City. All flights to Lanai Airport are turbo-prop aircraft. No jet planes land here. Flights to Lanai Airport arrive from just two destinations on two airlines:

• Honolulu (Oahu)- Ohana by Hawaiian starting at $138 round-trip. They fly big twin turbo-prop planes.
• Kahului (Maui) –Mokulele starting at $118 round-trip.  Mokulele flies tiny single-engine nine-seater planes. Window seat guaranteed.

From the airport it is 10 minutes by car to Lanai City, and 25 minutes to the Four Seasons Lanai/Manele Bay.

How to Get Around Lanai:

Getting around Lanai is expensive. All car rentals are 2-3 times what you would pay on the mainland. But, if you want to explore the island, you’ll need to rent a car on Lanai, ideally a 4×4 jeep. Only 30 of the islands 400 miles of roads are paved. The paved roads are in good shape, and with only three main roads that all lead to Lanai City, you can’t really get lost on this small island. Oh, and be forewarned that there is only one gas station, and gas is around $4.70 a gallon!

Be careful when booking a car with an internet booking site. There are NO NATIONAL CHAIN CAR RENTALS on Lanai. Dollar Rent A Car closed down in 2018. Most of these sites have no common sense built in, and will show you available cars FROM ANOTHER ISLAND! Yep. If you aren’t paying attention, you might end up booking a car, just 10 miles away ON MAUI! Whoops!

Lanai Car Rental:

Here is EVERY car rental option on Lanai, listed from most expensive to least expensive:

• If you plan to arrive by ferry, and want to rent a 4×4 jeep, Expeditions Ferry offers a combo roundtrip ferry ticket and full-day jeep rental for $300. This is the most convenient option for getting around, as they whisk you right from the ferry, to the car lot, and put you in a jeep, which can go anywhere.
• Lanai Cheap Jeeps has a hilariously unreadable website and rents Jeeps for $196 a day, and Subaru Crosstreks for $175 a day.
• 808 Day Trip has on-road vehicles only, with SUV’s for $155 a day, and hatchbacks for $135. They deliver to the airport or ferry for free.
• ABB Auto Rentals has 4-door jeeps for $190 a day, and 2-door jeeps for $155 a day. They also have regular (non off-road) vehicles for $124 a day. They list right in their rental rules that they discriminate against campers, and will only rent to the rich and famous staying at the Four Seasons or Hotel Lanai.
• Turo – is a another pricey option for Lanai. I found a few vans and jeeps starting at $128 a day, with pickup/drop-off at Lanai Airport or the boat harbor. If you have never used Turo before, click HERE for $25 off your first rental.
• Lanai Car Rental has a fleet that includes the all-electric and compact Chevy Bolt for $95, the four-wheel drive Jeep Wrangler Sahara for $195, and the Ford Transit minivan capable of transporting up to seven passengers for $155. They knock $20 off all those rates for Kama’aina (Hawaii residents). They do NOT deliver to the airport or harbor. You’ll have to take a taxi to their Lanai City location.

If you are staying at the Four Seasons (either Manele Bay or Lodge at Koele) you can use the Lanai City Shuttle. They go to and from the airport – Lanai City – Four Seasons Koele – Four Seasons Lanai – ferry boat harbor for a $10 (cash only) fee per-person per-way. They arrive at every ferry landing 7 days a week.

If you are really adventurous, and um…cheap, you could attempt to get around solely by the free MEO Bus. This single bus goes back and forth around the island.

There is no Uber or Lyft on Lanai.

There are a couple of taxi services. Arrange rides a day in advance to ensure pick-up.

• Rabaca’s Limousine Service at 808-565-6670

• Lanai Taxi Service at 808-649-0808

Stay Connected:

There is nowhere to buy a SIM card on Lanai. You should sort this out in either Maui or Oahu before you arrive. Cell phone coverage on Lanai is pretty good.  I had strong service at Manele Bay, of course in Lanai City, and even way out at Garden of the Gods I could get a signal on high points.

Where to Stay on Lanai?

Your choices for accommodations are pretty slim on Lanai. It’s either camping for $80 a night, an AirBnB for $225-300 a night, the Hotel Lanai at $300 a night, or the Four Seasons Lanai at $1000 a night. That is literally all there is.

Camping on Lanai:

There is one campground on Lanai; Hulopoe Beach Park is an absolutely fabulous white sand beach on the south shore of Lanai. It is great for swimming and snorkeling. A pod of spinner dolphins stop by at least a couple of times a day. The Four Seasons Lanai is right next door, and if you camp here you’ll get to enjoy seeing the unwashed masses hobnob with the upper crust staying just 100 meters away for twelve times the price.

There are eight campsites on the grassy area set back from the beach, and up to four people are allowed at each site. There are two very nice public bathrooms, cold water showers, barbecue grills, and picnic tables. Hulopoe is a privately owned campground, and the cost to stay here (for non-Lanai residents) is an outrageously expensive $80 per night, per permit. You can stay a maximum of three nights. I’m wondering if Pulama Lanai does not really want campers, and are just having a laugh seeing how high they can raise the fee before people stop coming? But at the same time, bless their heart for keeping this campsite open, as there is nowhere else even remotely affordable near the beach on Lanai.

The beach park is packed and busy on weekends.  While you have to pay $80 to camp back in the grass, Lanai residents can camp right on the beach for FREE, and on weekends they camp in multiple packs of a dozen tents and boom-boxes and inflatable beach toys.  During the week, you’ll find the beach to be much quieter.

To book a campsite, you must email info@lanaibeachpark.com with the following information:

• Contact person name, phone number, and email address
• Dates requested (3 nights maximum)
• Names of all campers in your group
• Travel itinerary (i.e., dates, and times of arrival and departure, and whether traveling by plane or ferry)

Getting to Hulopoe Beach is an easy half-mile walk from Manele boat harbor.  There is the Manele General Store (open 7am to 7pm weekdays, til 4pm Sundays) at the boat harbor if you forget anything, or need to restock beer and ice.

Hotels on Lanai:

This is an easy section to write. There are only TWO HOTELS on all of Lanai at the moment.  The third hotel will be priced in the grand-a-night range when it opens in 2019 or 2020.

• Hotel Lanai – Rooms starting at $300 a night.  Located right in Lanai City, it has a casual elegance and all-around comfiness to it.  Lots of tall pines shade the grounds, and it is a relaxing place to stay and be part of the Lanai community.  It’s the oldest hotel on the island, built in 1923 by the Dole Company, and it was the only hotel on Lanai until 1990.

• Four Seasons Resort Lanai – Rooms starting at $1000 a night.  Clearly one of the finest places to stay in all of Hawaii, the Four Seasons combines service and luxury with a peaceful view over Manele Bay.  The newly re-designed pool is a fabulous rock garden full of little waterfalls, multiple small pools and hot tubs, and foliage covered private nooks to lounge in and feel like you are the only ones there.  Mr. Ellison has invested over 450 million into remodeling the resort.
• Four Seasons Lanai at Koele – In the cool air just above Lanai City, this equally luxurious retreat has just re-opened after 4 years of renovations.  Rooms start at $1000 a night with a three night minimum.

Lanai Condo Rentals: There are no condos on Lanai. None. Zero.

AirBnB on Lanai: There are only a half-dozen home rentals in Lanai City on AirBnB. The cheapest one is a small plantation house going for $225 a night. There is also a room in a B&B for $224 a night. There are no privately owned homes or condos anywhere else on the island outside Lanai City.

Best Restaurants in Lanai:

You can get five-star dining at the Four Seasons Lanai (at 10 star prices). Or, you can venture into Lanai City and get good food at normal (for Hawaii) prices. Here are some of the best places:

Lanai City Restaurants:

• Pele’s Other Garden – A popular and reasonably priced spot for pizza and beer. Serving cold sandwiches for $11, hot sandwiches for $12, and pizza starting at $11. Beers are $5. Open Mon-Fri 11am to 9pm, Sat 430pm-8pm, Closed Sun.

• Café 565 – Burgers, plate lunch and Asian local favorites all in the $8-10 range.  I can recommend their specialty, the Korean chicken wings.  Sometimes the only place open in Lanai City in the afternoon.

• Blue Ginger Café – Another great budget dining option on Lanai. You can get burgers and sandwiches mostly in the $10 range, and they have a full breakfast menu. I enjoyed a simple bacon, egg and cheese sandwich for $7.50.  Open 6am to 8pm Thurs-Fri-Sat-Sun-Mon. 6am to 2pm Tues and Wed.
• Coffee Works – Serving up the best coffee on Lanai.  You’ll have to know where to look, cause it’s a block off of Dole Park, right behind the Blue Ginger Café.

• Lanai City Service / The Plantation Deli – Great deli style sandwiches for $9-10.  Don’t be put off by it’s combo deli/gas station location.

• Lanai City Bar & Grille This restaurant and bar in the Hotel Lanai, is undoubtedly THE fine dining option in Lanai City. Entrees from $18-38. Live music on weekends. Open 5pm to 10pm Tues-Sat, 10-2 Sunday, Closed Monday

• Richard’s Market – If you are just looking for some sandwiches to go, or groceries and liquor, this newly renovated market is stocked with everything you could want.  It’s like a little Whole Foods in Lanai!

At the Four Seasons Lanai:

• Views at Manele Golf Course – The um…views are indeed fantastic here, and the prices are a tad cheaper than the other Four Seasons eateries. Sandwiches and salads in the $24-34 range.
• One Forty – Steak and Seafood.
• Malibu Farm – Brunch and Lunch spot with entrees in the $25-50 range. Try the Poke Ceviche.
• The Sports Bar & Grill – The most low-key of the resorts eateries. Burgers and Pizza for $25-29, Entrees for $34-42. Open 11am to 11pm.
• Nobu Lanai – The signature restaurant of the island. Take out a second mortgage before sitting down.

Nightlife on Lanai:

There’s only a handful of options, and most everything closes up early.

• The Sports Bar & Grill (at Four Seasons Lanai)
• Lanai City Bar & Grille (at the Hotel Lanai) stays open til 11pm on Friday and Saturday, and has live music those nights.

Get a Guidebook:

I am unimpressed by the available print and eBook guidebooks to Lanai. Things change, restaurants come and go, and no print guidebook is going to beat the up-to-date information I’ve researched and listed here. But, there is one guide to Lanai that I do recommend:

Lanai Map – Franko’s Lanai Guide Waterproof Map is an invaluable resource for the off-grid adventurer. If you plan to bike and hike or even drive off-road around Lanai, this map will “fill in the blanks” that may show up as empty spaces on Google Maps.

What to Pack:

The basics are available on Lanai, but not at Amazon or Walmart prices. You are far better off bringing with you quality gear at mainland prices. You also don’t want to be spending your limited vacation time searching for the right stuff. Here is what I use, and recommend you bring to Lanai:

Snorkel, Mask and Fins – The Cressi Palau Short Fins provide a mask with a great fit for all faces, durable quality, and great fins that aren’t so long you fall on your face trying to exit the water. The best snorkeling package value. You’ll need this to see all the fishies in Hulopoe Bay

Travel Towel – The PackTowl Personal Microfiber towel is the best travel towel there is. It’s comfortable, quick-drying, lightweight, and packs down to the size of a paperback book. Comes in four sizes and eleven colors. I have the largest size “Beach” at 36 x 59 inches in Blueberry. Get this towel, and avoid having to buy a crappy convenience store “ALOHA” towel for $29.95 that you’ll never use again.

Reef Safe Sunscreen – Effective January 1, 2021 the State of Hawaii has banned all non reef-safe sunscreens from sale in the islands. Why not get ahead of the curve, and bring this excellent sunscreen with you? Thinksport SPF 50 rubs in easily and feels good on your skin. And you’re saving our coral reefs.

Sunhat – It’s pretty sunny on the south shores of Lanai, and you might want a decent hat to go with that reef-safe sunscreen. These Hemlock Hat Company wide brimmed straw hats are what all the cool kids are wearing at the beach these days. I have the “Bandit” color.

While these items are of particular importance to make the most of your visit to Lanai, it would be worth checking out my Ultimate Travel Packing List that covers everything you might need for your trip.

Is Lanai Safe?

It’s got to be one of the safest places in America. For one thing, almost everyone on the island works for Pulama Lanai (Larry Ellison’s company) in some capacity. If you get in trouble, you get fired, and then you gotta move, because there are no other jobs. It’s a company town. But beyond that, Lanai people are just some of the nicest, friendliest folks you’ll meet in Hawaii. They have that small town kindness you’d expect to find in Iowa or Maine.  When I rode my bike around here, at least half the passing cars gave me a wave hello!  That doesn’t happen on Maui.

Years ago I managed to get a kiawe-thorn flat-tire on my scooter way out by Shipwreck Beach. At sunset. I was sadly pushing by moped up the forest road, mentally preparing to spend a miserable night, hungry and chilly, alone in the woods. Out of nowhere, a pickup truck appears. The guy was fishing, and he promptly lifted my scooter into the back. Not only did he go a half hour out of his way to drop me off at Hulopoe Beach, he also stopped at two different friends houses to see if they might have a patch kit. And he offered to come get me the next day to help me get the scooter back the boat harbor! That’s my enduring memory of the people on Lanai.

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“Sani Pass Tours to the Highest Pub in Africa” will take you up switchbacks to the Roof of Africa, to meet the Basotho people on the high plains of Lesotho.

As a dedicated passport stamper, I couldn’t possibly spend three weeks in South Africa without visiting the “Highest Pub in Africa” in its landlocked neighbor Lesotho (pronounced LEH-SOO-TOO).  When I say landlocked, I mean completely surrounded by South Africa. There are only three countries in the world that are encircled by another country: Lesotho, Vatican City, and San Marino.  So the only way to drive in is from South Africa, and the most fun way is up the Sani Pass Lesotho.

Some interesting Lesotho facts:

Why does Lesotho exist? What prevented it from being swallowed up by South Africa? It’s all due to the leadership of King Moshoeshoe, who expertly played off the British colonialists against the Dutch Boers, and the soundly defeated both parties in several mountain battles in the 1800s.

Lesotho’s lowest point of 1,400 meters (4,593 ft) is the “highest lowest-point” of any country in the world.

It the most ethnically homogenous nation in the world, as 99.7% of its population hail from the Basotho tribe.

Lesotho has a horrific 25% HIV rate, and the highest tuberculosis rate in the world, leading to extremely low life expectancy of 51 for men and 55 for women.

How do you get to the start of the Sani Pass Tours?

There are about ten border crossings to Lesotho in total, but only one provides a stunning journey up the side of the Drakensberg Mountains. This crossing just happens to be the closest border to Durban, the starting point of my journey. This would be the Sani Pass, a twisting dirt road built in the 1950s that rises from 5,000 feet to 9,436 feet over just 5.6 miles.  I opted to make the day trip from Durban in Kwazulu Natal.

South Africa allows only 4×4 vehicles past their border post, so I could either rent a (very expensive) 4×4 in Durban and do it all myself, or I could go with a tour company 4×4 and let someone more knowledgeable sweat the driving. I chose to go with Sani Pass Tours.com, the most well-known and highly rated outfit.

To get there, I rented a cheap compact car in Durban, and made a 6am departure to the small town of Underberg. It was a lovely drive through farmland and rolling hills, all of it on excellent roads.

I parked in the sleepy little town of Underberg, and had a coffee while I waited to meet up with the tour guide. Soon our group of a half-dozen settled into our big Landcruiser to begin the journey.

The Drakensberg plateau loomed over us, with grassy fields on both sides.

Border Crossing #1

Soon we reached the South African border post, which quickly stamped us all out of the country.

Then we began the serious part of the road, all of it in a no-man’s land between the two nations. Hairpin turn after hairpin turn brought us higher and higher. At particularly scenic drop-offs, the driver would let us out for photos. You can see the remains of vehicles that didn’t negotiate a turn properly.

We weren’t the only people on the route. There were a handful of other 4×4 Sani Pass tour groups. There was one slow-moving, nervous looking driver, in a personally owned 4×4.  Also, one barefoot man dressed in rags carrying firewood on his head. A couple of shepherds with serious looking sticks glared at us. A tiny two wheel drive compact car was abandoned, hopelessly mired in sand off the side of the road facing downhill. Two VERY impressive fully-laden cyclists were chugging upwards. If you want to attempt this on a bicycle, then read this account of the thrills of cycling one of the highest roads in Africa.

Be advised, the Lesotho side will let any vehicle attempt to drive down, but ascending cars and pack mules have the right of way.

At the summit, we took more photos and rejoiced at making it to the top and taking in the cool air.

Border Crossing #2

Lesotho passport control was easy and quick.  We were inside Lesotho!  We were thirsty for the Highest Pub in Africa, but we had another stop first.

Basotho Village

The next part of our Sani Pass tour was a touristy visit to a Basotho village. Of all the villages I have visited in Africa, this one was the most bleak. The village sits randomly in the middle of a high, windswept plateau. It is surrounded by nothing but rocks. No trees, no fruit or vegetable gardens, no obvious source of water even. Just stacked-rock round huts to shelter them from the constant cold wind.  No safari wildlife around either, nothing like in Kruger National Park a few hundred miles away.

We picked up a guide who took us inside a big makhoro (hut) where we could learn about the daily life of the Basotho. They are sheep and goat herders, and must trek into town to trade their flock for everything else they might need. Each shepherd carries an individually carved stick that acts as their identification. If a shepherd goes out to lead his flock to graze for months and never returns, eventually someone will find his stick next to his bones and be able to tell who he was. It sounds like a tough existence.

Outside the hut, the women of the village had on their best Basotho blankets, set out handicrafts we could buy, and performed a doleful clapping song. Meanwhile, the men stood and stared at us unsmiling from the shadows, all dressed in earth-toned blankets of brown and grey. I felt ashamed for the indignity of what their village had to do to survive. The men wanted no part of us, and the women had a palpable disdain for the wooden performance they had to trot out to tourists each day. In every culture in Africa, I always find that it is the women that go the extra mile to fend for their families, and Lesotho is no exception.

I got back in the truck immediately while the others perused the trinkets on offer, though no one bought anything. Everyone tipped our local guide, and I wondered how much of that made it to the villagers.

Sani Pass Tours – The Highest Pub in Africa

Next we were off to the Sani Mountain Lodge, a charming British colonial style outpost on the edge of the pass. It’s known for having “The Highest Pub in Africa”. We enjoyed beers and sandwiches by the fireplace, as fog settled in.

The drive back down was cheerful after our mountain beers, and passed by quickly with no photo stops. I got dropped off back at my rental car around 4pm, and started my 3 hour drive back to Durban. As soon as I got going, the skies darkened, opened up and began pouring sheets of rain.

If you drive on the highways of South Africa, you’ll see the craziest hitchhiking scene in all the world. For complicated reasons relating back to apartheid public planning, the black townships in the suburbs of major cities have no public transportation even to this day. People trying to get to work in the cities have no other option than to walk to the highways and beg for rides. It is not unusual to see a hundred men standing in the breakdown lane, all waving a 10 or 20 rand note in the air, offering to pay for a ride.

Now as a lone foreigner driving along, I’m too scared to let a bunch of guys I don’t know in my car. After all, this is not Kansas. South Africa has loads of violent crime including car jacking at knife or gunpoint. So every day, I pass by all these people. But on this day, under the pouring rain, I passed a line of older ladies looking for rides. Some combination of having had a beer, being bored of driving alone for hours on end, feeling sorry for these ladies getting soaked, and judging that they were unlikely to stab me, led me to pull over.

They ran up to my car, and peered in my window. When they saw I was a white guy they just stood and stared at me.

“Yes?” one said quizzically.

“You want rides right?” I replied.

“Oh. Yes, yes.”

They all climbed in. They didn’t make too much conversation, and we rode in silence for 20 minutes or so. They indicated where to drop them, and then offered me some rand notes, which I refused. It’s the strange little experiences like this that I enjoy so much in my travels.

Sani Pass Tours: Things to Know Before You Go:

Cheap Beer Index: $2.87

You can enjoy a 330ml Maluti for 40 rand at the Sani Mountain Lodge.

When to Visit Sani Pass:

The best time for Sani Pass Tours is summertime; November thru February can get over 70 degrees. Winters are chilly, it gets below freezing nightly in June and July, and ice could close the road.

What languages are spoken in Lesotho?

Basotho is the common language, but English is a common second language

Do you need a Lesotho visa?

No. USA, UK, AUS and CAN passport holders all get 14 days to visit visa-free. 14 days should be enough to visit every inch of this small country.

How you get to the starting point of Sani Pass Tours:

Tourist favorite Cape Town is a long, long way away from Lesotho.  Durban / Pietermaritzburg are the closest major cites, you can easily do day tours from either city. From Durban, head north on the N3 highway to R617 towards Sani Pass Road in Underberg. The drive takes less than 3 hours to Underberg/Himeville. If you have a 4×4, you can make it all the way to the top in 4 hours.

You can also continue on to the capitol of Lesotho. Maseru is six hours further northwest on good roads.  There are lots of Lesotho tours to join from there.

There are plans to pave the road all the way to the top in 2019 by a Chinese company. If you wait a year or ten, you might be able to drive up in any old vehicle.

You can do it yourself if you have a 4×4. Remember the border closes at 6pm. You should get a letter of authorization from the rental company stating they approve for you to bring the vehicle in Lesotho. You may need to show this when leaving SA.

I went with Sani Pass Tours.com. Their 8 hour Lesotho day trips include a comfortable 4×4 drive up and down the pass, a Basotho cultural village visit, and a stop for lunch at the Highest Pub in Africa (on your own $$) for $63.

What is Lesotho’s Currency?

The Lesotho Loti is kept at par with the South African Rand (14.4ZAR to $1USD) and are available at ATMs. Use em all up before you leave, as they won’t be accepted in South Africa. If you have Rand with you, just use them, they will be accepted everywhere.

Stay Connected in Lesotho:

I highly recommend that anyone planning to do a large amount of international travelling switch their service provider to Google Fi. Google Fi allows you to use your same data plan, at the same domestic usage price ($10 per GB, and data is free after 6GB) in 164 countries! With Google Fi, you don’t have to sign up for a pricey “International Plan”. And you don’t get worthless 2G data speeds internationally like T-Mobile’s “One”, you get data at whatever the top speed the local cell towers can offer. Google Fi does have coverage in Lesotho. If you sign up through my referral HERE, you’ll get $20 off your first bill, and I’ll get $20 off my next bill. Everybody wins!

If you don’t already have Google Fi, there are two mobile network operators in Lesotho:

• Vodacom Lesotho has 75% of subscribers. If you have a South African Vodacom SIM, you can roam in Lesotho for free. You can buy a pay as you go SIM card for less than $2 from many stores. You don’t need to register it. 1GB of data, good for one week, is M50 ($3.40)
• Econet (Ezi-Cel, by ETL) has 25% of subscribers. You can buy a pay as you go SIM card called Buddie or Libertie for free with a mandatory M 50 ($3.40) recharge. You don’t need to register it. 1.3GB of data, good for one week, is M50 ($3.40)

Sani Pass Hotels:

In Lesotho:

The Sani Stone Lodge has dorm room bunk beds for just $13 a night. They also have private rooms starting at $41. They have a restaurant onsite, and can arrange cultural tours, horseback riding, hiking and fishing.

The Sani Mountain Lodge allows camping (brrr) for $12, has bunk beds for $19, and private room rondavels starting at $119 a night.

In South Africa:

Sani Lodge Backpackers has bunk beds for $16 a night, and private rooms starting at $45 a night. They have a swimming pool, and herb garden, plush common areas, and get rave reviews. They can arrange your 4×4 drive up the pass.  This place looks a lot warmer and comfier than anywhere at the top of the pass.

Where to Eat:

The Sani Mountain Lodge has a monopoly on gastronomy and astronomy in the area, and serves tasty lunches and dinners.

Nightlife at Sani Pass:

The Highest Pub in Africa is the only bar for miles up in Lesotho. Remember, you are drinking at 9500 feet, so beers will hit you almost twice as hard. Go slow.

Down in South Africa, Sani Lodge Backpackers might have some folks tipping a few under the stars. Otherwise, you’d have to drive into Underberg, which isn’t the most hopping place anyway.

Get a Guidebook:

The Rough Guide to South Africa, Lesotho & Swaziland is the best guide available. Much more informative, up-to-date, and accurate than Lonely Planet. I used it every day without fail in my three week road trip across all three countries.

What to Pack:

Bring warm clothes. If it is 80 degrees in Durban at sea level, it’s going to be no more than 50 at the Highest Pub in Africa. Check out my Worldwide Travel Packing List for the best travel gear for your adventures. I’ve already read all the online reviews, and tested it all out, so you can just click and buy the best stuff.

Is Lesotho Safe?

It’s very unlikely you’ll have problems with anyone in the area around Sani Pass. However, the capital city of Maseru has a high crime rate. Muggings occur frequently, and can be violent. Be careful walking around there in daytime, and don’t walk anywhere at night.

THANKS FOR READING

Full Disclosure: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. This means that if you buy anything, I’ll earn a small commission at no cost to you. I only link to stuff I use, love, and recommend. I don’t accept bribes to endorse garbage. Your clicks help keep this site alive.

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“18 Amazing Things to Do in Molokai” takes you to the Kalaupapa leper colony, a scenic drive past ancient fishponds and historical churches, flying by 3000 foot sea cliffs, and to stunning sunsets on endless beaches.

by Worldwide Wilbur, June 2019

Why go to Molokai?

This gorgeous island lies untouched by mass tourism. It boasts Hawaii’s longest white sand beach. The tallest sea cliffs in the world are found along its north shore. Its barrier reef and black sand beaches offer pristine snorkeling. You can visit ancient heiau (temples) and rock fishponds built centuries ago. Molokai is the way Hawaii used to be.  18 Amazing Things to Do in Molokai Island will show you how to get to these special places found on no other island.  Go now, before its too late.

Where is Molokai?

Molokai, nicknamed “The Friendly Isle” is the fifth largest of the eight main Hawaiian islands, and is located just eight miles to the west of Maui and ten miles north of Lanai. It is 38 miles long from East to West, and only 10 miles wide North to South.

What is it like on Molokai?

Molokai has a very different vibe than its neighbors Maui and Lanai. While Maui and Lanai are both 100% geared around tourism, life in Molokai is not focused on tourism at all. There is no Hilton or Marriott, no Starbucks, no McDonalds, not even a stoplight!

Molokai is considered the “Most Hawaiian Island” because it has the largest percentage of Native Hawaiian residents in the state (excluding the tiny island of Ni’ihau). Over 45% of the islands residents are of native descent. Only 7000 people live on the island, with half of them located in sleepy Kaunakakai.

18 Amazing Things to do on Molokai:

#1 Fly into the Molokai Leper Colony:

What? A leper colony? In the USA in 2019??  Kalaupapa National Historical Park still houses a handful of elderly Hansen’s Disease patients, who choose to stay in the only home they have known for decades. From 1866 to 1969 this inescapable peninsula formed an open-air quarantine prison for sufferers of leprosy. You won’t actually get to meet them, but the fun and adventure is the exciting flight in, and the stunning views of 3,000 foot sea cliffs from the bottom. You’ll learn about the history of the colony, and in particular the selfless dedication of Father Damien.

You MUST sign up with a tour company, as no one is allowed entry to Kalaupapa without a permit.  And you must fly in, as there is currently no overland or sea access to this isolated peninsula.  Mokulele Airlines has a package tour that includes airfare from Maui, the permit, a day tour by bus around the peninsula to visit the historical sites, and get up close to the tallest sea cliffs on earth.  This is without a doubt the most popular of all the things to do in Molokai.

• Flights from Kahului – Central Maui
• Flights from Kapalua – West Maui

(The Kalaupapa Trail is closed “indefinitely” after a landslide destroyed the bridge on the trail’s second switchback in December of 2018. Massive reconstruction is needed to make the trail safe, and there is no timeline for completion. The Molokai Mule Ride and hiking down are not possible.  The only way to reach Kalaupapa now is by plane.  Again, you must have a permit to visit Kalaupapa, so don’t rush out to buy a plane ticket, sign up for a tour first.)

#2 Own the Sunset at Papohaku – The Best Beaches on Molokai.

If you have ever dreamt about having a golden sand Hawaiian beach all to yourself, this might be your chance.  Certainly one of the most relaxing things to do in Molokai.  The best of all Molokai beaches, Papohaku is a massive 3 miles long, and yet, on any given evening, you might have it all to yourself. It’s at the far western end of the island, far from the main town. As the beach faces west, you are in the perfect spot to watch the sun turn the sand from light gold to deep red as it dips into the Pacific.  Waves can be rough. Swimming is usually ok in summertime, particularly at that far right side of the beach, about a 10 minute walk from the beach park entrance.

You can also try these nearby beaches for swimming:

• Dixie Maru Beach (Kapukahehu Beach) at the far southwest end of Pohakuloa/Kaluakoi Road lies this tiny sheltered beach, good for swimming and sunsets.
• Kepuhi Bay Beach lies at the opposite side, just over Kaiaka Rock to the northeast of Papuhaku.
• Pohakumauliuli Beach is just further along past Kepuhi.

#3 Drive the Coastal Road to Halawa Valley.

This is the Molokai version of Maui’s “Road to Hana”.  Take all day to slowly drive eastbound for 28 miles on the scenic and historic Kamehameha V Highway. Stop at every fishpond and church to take a picture, and at every beach to jump in.  You’ll end up at breathtaking Halawa Valley, which could easily be a scene from Jurassic Park, with a couple waterfalls visible deep into the valley. Many of the best things to do in Molokai are along this road.  Here are the specific stops you’ll want to make:

• Kalokoeli Fishpond just east of town, is an excellent example of the 60 rock-wall fishponds along the south shore.  All were built hundreds of years ago by the first Hawaiians.  Many have been refurbished, and are still in use to catch fish with the outgoing tide.

• Hotel Molokai is immediately after the fishpond.  If you need a meal, this is the last good spot for a while.

• One Ali’i Beach Park is a big grassy space ringed by coconut palms where you could camp.

• Watch for Nene!  The Hawaiian goose is our state bird, and they nest along the road here.

• St Joseph Church was built by Father Damien in 1876.

• Our Lady of Sorrows Church was built by Father Damien in 1874.
• Iliiliopae Heiau is an ancient human sacrificial temple covering 38,000 square feet.  It’s near mile marker 15.  ( I couldn’t find it at my last trip, but you could ask for directions.)

• Mana’e Goods and Grindz  This is THE place to eat on the east side.  If you’re hungry, don’t pass it by.

• Murphy (Kumimi) Beach is one of the best places for Snorkeling on Molokai. A rocky formation called the Dragons Tail leads into the sea creating great snorkeling.  At mile maker 20.  After here, the road gets narrow and twisty.  Buckle up.

• Swim at Sandy Beach: This small white sand beach, located on the narrow road to Halawa Valley, has a protected reef that makes its waters calm.

• Swim at Halawa Beach Park.  There are two small beaches here, separated by a river entering the sea.  Restrooms and a shower available.

I did Halawa Valley road trip with my family in a rental car.  If you’d rather leave the driving and finding all these spots to someone else, Molokai Outdoors has a full day island tour that hits all these spots and more.  They’ll pick you up at the airport, and show you all the best things to do in Molokai.

#4 Slow Down. You On Molokai Now.

People take time to enjoy life on Molokai. You should too. If the car in front of you stops to have a chat with the Auntie in the other lane for a minute…you wait. Honking your horn in impatience is an unpardonable sin on Molokai. Take time to talk to the people who live here. They know a lot more about their island than this guide or any other. Open yourself to new experiences.  Stroll around sleepy Kaunakakai, just window shopping and taking in island life.

#5 Paddleboard or Kayak to the Barrier Reef.

The south shore of Molokai is fringed by the longest barrier reef in the USA. What this means for a visitor is that there aren’t many nice beaches on the south side, but more mangroves, seaweed, and silty, shallow, rocky shoreline. HOWEVER, if you climb in a kayak, it’s just a short paddle out to crystal blue water with excellent visibility!  This is one of the best adventurous things to do in Molokai.

Molokai Outdoors is a locally owned tour company that can get you out to the best part of reef safely on a half-day kayaking tour. You don’t want to go kayaking around outside the reef if you don’t know the area. If the wind kicks in, you might find yourself swept out to Australia!

#6 Mail a Coconut to Someone at Post A Nut Molokai.

At the Hoolehua Post Office (96729), you can actually mail a real coconut.  The postmaster keeps a pile of ’em ready to go, along with sharpies so you can decorate it with messages and artwork. The coconuts are FREE, but postage runs about $14-$17 depending on the weight of the nut.  Only open weekdays.  Certainly one of the most unique things to do in Molokai.

#7 Shop at the Saturday Farmers Market

From 7am until noonish, local farmers and crafts people bring their wares to town.  Get there early for the best fruits and veggies.  I was surprised with all the cool stuff for sale here.  My family bought hand-carved necklaces, shirts, cookies, bubble tea, and shave ice.  It was fun just getting to talk to all the shop owners.

#8 Fly-by the Molokai Sea Cliffs, the tallest in the world.

Molokai’s north shore boasts magnificent 3800 foot tall cliffs dropping straight into the ocean.  Seeing them is one of the most dramatic things to do in Molokai island, and you won’t find taller sea cliffs anywhere else on earth!

They aren’t easy to get to.  You could make an arduous, treacherous multi-day hike to the top.  You could charter a boat to chug around Halawa Valley for a few hundred dollars.  Or, for the best view of all, you can fly right past them with Mokulele Air.  Mokulele has a one-hour scenic flight from Maui.  It swoops right by the cliffs and Kalaupapa peninsula, and then over the length of Molokai’s south shore coral reefs, finally dropping you back on Maui.  If you really want to see the cliffs, but don’t care about the Kalaupapa peninsula tour, this is the most economical option:

• Flights from Kahului – Central Maui
• Flights from Kapalua – West Maui

#9 Visit a Phallic Rock and gaze down on Kalaupapa at Pala’au State Park

Just a short and steep hike from the parking lot will reveal Kauleonanahoa, Molokai’s famous “Phallic Rock.” According to Hawaiian legends, if a woman goes to Kauleonanahoa with offerings and spends the night there, she will return home pregnant.  Your kids will giggle for the rest of the day if you choose to teach them the definition of the word “phallic”.  A little further along the trail is an overlook to Kalaupapa Peninsula, some 1700 feet below.  It’s the next best thing to flying in.

#10 Enjoy Samples at Purdy’s Macadamia Nut Farm

Mr. Purdy offers free tours of their orchard.  After the tour, you can sample the different ways the nuts are prepared, and then buy jars of your favorite.  My kids really enjoyed being handed a hammer and shown how to crack open the shells.    Tue–Fri 9:30am–3:30pm and Sat 10am–2pm,  Sun and holidays by appointment

#11 Listen to the Kanikapila at Coffees of Hawaii

Every Tuesday from 10am to 1pm and Friday from 3-6pm, a group of locals meet to play ukulele and sing Hawaiian and American classics. This 500 acre coffee plantation and coffee shop sells java that was grown, processed and packed right here.  Open Mon-Sat.

#12 Hike the Halawa Valley to Moaula Falls

You’ll need a guide, as it passes through private property. It takes 2.5 to 3 hours, so pack in enough water.

#13 Make your own Lei at Molokai Plumerias

At this Plumeria Orchard, you can get a tour and sew your own lei.  It takes about 50 of these yellow flowers to make one.  Open Mon-Fri, call first for an appointment 808-553-3391.

#14 Visit the Sorta Ghost Town of Maunaloa

Molokai Ranch once owned a third of the island, employed 120 people, and operated a golf course, a movie theater, a hotel, several restaurants, and a gas station all located in the upcountry town of Maunaloa.  After overwhelming protests by the community against their plans to develop coastal property, Molokai ranch shut down everything in 2008.  People still live in Maunaloa, and there is a working general store, but a drive through here will pass dozens of abandoned buildings, with their old signs still on them, a town forever frozen in 2008.

#15 Hike the Pepeopae Trail in Kamakou Preserve

Located high in the mountains of east side, Kamakou Preserve is a rain forest with more than 200 species of native plants. A metal and wood boardwalk takes you through a moss-covered rain forest and pristine mountain bog before arriving at a spectacular overlook of Pelekunu Valley. Hikes are arranged monthly.

#16 Get Up Close to a Humpback Whale.

Humpback whales visit in the winter, with peak density from January 15 to March 31. You can possibly see one or two as early as October, and as late as May. If you are going on a whale watch, February and March are perfect. Whale Watch Molokai has the best Molokai Boat Tours for $79.

#17 Catch a Fish Bigger Than You

The waters off Molokai have some of the best fishing in all of Hawaii. In fact, some big commercial boats from Oahu started coming all the way over to see what they could catch. (Spoiler: They caught a fist up aside their head from some Molokai fisherman) But no worries, you can go with Captain Mike and test your luck with Molokai Fishing.

#18 Play Golf on Molokai

You can play 9 Holes at Ironwood Hills Golf Course for under $40 bucks.  Yep. Certainly the best golf deal in the state.

Things to Do in Molokai – What you Need to Know Before You Go

Backpacker Daily Budget:

$68. With no hostels, or efficient public transportation; the best way to see Molokai on a backpacker budget is by travelling in a group of four, splitting camping fees and car rental. Four non-residents camping at Papohaku Beach Park Monday thru Thursday would be $10 per-person per-day. Splitting a rental car will run $22 per-person per-day, plus another $4 for gas. Get your breakfast and dinner cookout supplies from Friendly Market Molokai for $10, and have lunch in Kaunakakai for $10 at Molokai Burger. Three beers will run you $12 at Paddlers Inn. Entry to all the best County and State Parks on Molokai are free.

Best Time to Visit Molokai:

Anytime is a good time to visit. Molokai has warm weather year round. In my opinion, the best time is January through March for low humidity, and the chance to see whales. But it really depends on your plans:

• The temperature hardly changes. The hottest month is August with highs of 87 and lows of 73. The coolest month is February at 80 and 65.
• Humidity does change: August is the worst at 84% humidity. January, February, March, and April are the best with low humidity at around 30%. If you like sunny, but not muggy, choose winter.
• Rainfall varies quite a bit. The driest month is June with only 0.3 of an inch. The “wet season” is December through April 15 with averages between 1.5 and 2 inches per month. This isn’t really very much rain, but it is possible to get a week where it rains every single day in these months, particularly January and February.
• Ocean temperatures vary by 5 degrees, peaking at 80 in September, and bottoming out at 75 in March. Visitors will probably judge the ocean to be plenty warm anytime, but as a local, I find it very chilly in March and nice in September. If you plan to spend a lot of time in the water, for snorkeling or SCUBA diving, August-September-October might be the best for you.
• Humpback whales visit in the winter, with peak whale density from January 15 to March 31. You can possibly see one or two as early as October, and as late as May. If you are going on a whale watch, February and March are perfect.
• Price of accommodations change dramatically throughout the year. Rates peak the week between Christmas and New Year, when every single room on the island is sold out. Room rates are at their lowest in September and October. A typical condo that goes for $199 in January, might be only $130 in October.

What languages are spoken on Molokai?

Everyone speaks English cause Hawaii really is part of America. However, folks who grew up here will speak Hawaiian Pidgin to each other.  Some people also speak Hawaiian in Molokai.

Do you need a U.S. visa?

Americans obviously do not need any papers to come to the 50th state. Canadian visitors do not need a visa, and can stay for 182 days out of a year. AUS and UK visitors need to complete an Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA) before arrival, and then get 90 days to visit.

How to Get to Molokai from Maui / Oahu:

The Ferry from Maui to Molokai…..is all gone.

Getting to Molokai is limited to arriving by air.  There is no ferry to Molokai. The long-running Maui to Molokai ferry “Island Princess” used to go from Lahaina, Maui, but all their ferries to Molokai shut down in October 2016.  PLEASE NOTE: The website for the ferry is still up on the web at Molokaiferry.com but I assure you, the Molokai ferry NO LONGER EXISTS.  They simply didn’t bother to take down the site.

There is no Lanai to Molokai ferry or a ferry to Oahu either.  So unless you have a friend with a boat or jet-ski, or you are one hell of a good swimmer, the only way to arrive is via air.

Flights to Molokai:

There are only three airlines to Molokai to choose from; Ohana by Hawaiian, Mokulele, and Makani Kai.

Molokai has two airports. The main airport is Molokai Airport (MKK) also known as Hoolehua.  Molokai Airport is located in the center of the island, 7 miles northwest of Kaunakakai, the largest town on Molokai.  All flights that serve Molokai Airport are turbo-prop aircraft. No jet planes land here.  The Mokulele and Makani Kai flights are on little 9-seater, single engine planes that fly at about 2500 feet.  Everyone gets a window seat, and the views of west Maui and the southern coast of Molokai are spectacular.    The total flight time from Kahului to Molokai-MKK is only 17 minutes!   There are no TSA security checks on these flights.  And no tickets, just assigned seats by your weight.   It’s all refreshingly casual.  A guy rolled up to the counter 20 minutes before the flight and got on.  You can take two carry-on bags of up to 15lbs and they do weigh them. Larger bags must be checked for $20 each way.

Oahu to Molokai Flights:

• Honolulu (Oahu)- Ohana by Hawaiian has flights to Molokai airport from Honolulu starting at $132 round-trip, Mokulele starting at $108 round-trip, and Makani Kai at $110 round-trip

Maui to Molokai Flights:

• Kahului (Maui) – Mokulele has flights to Molokai airport from Maui starting at $112 round-trip, Makani Kai at $110 round-trip

Kalaupapa to Molokai flights:

• Kalaupapa (Molokai) – Mokulele has flights to Molokai Airport from Kalaupapa starting at $98 round-trip, Makani Kai at $100 round-trip.

A secondary airport serves the geographically isolated Kalaupapa peninsula. Kalaupapa Airport (LUP) has flights from two destinations:

• Honolulu (Oahu)- Mokulele, Makani Kai
• Molokai-Hoolehua (Molokai) – Mokulele, Makani Kai

Be aware there is NO POSSIBLE GROUND TRANSPORTATION from Kalaupapa peninsula to the rest of the island of Molokai. It is an isolated peninsula, surrounded by ocean on three sides, and thousand-foot cliffs on the other. The only way to reach the rest of the island is via steep hiking trail (which is currently closed).

How to Get Around Molokai:

You definitely want to rent a car on Molokai. There is a county bus, but it isn’t going to get you to the stunning nature sights.  Roads are in good shape, and with only three main roads, you can’t really get lost. Just have enough gas when leaving Kaunakakai, because gas stations are nonexistent outside the town.  And be prepared for the gas prices…

Car Rental on Molokai:  There are three decent options for car rental, and one terrible one.  Be aware these local car rental shops only have a handful of cars.  It is entirely possible for every car on the island to be rented out.  Book far in advance.

• Mobettah Car Rentals – Only rents cars for a minimum of one week. Cheapest cars are $47 a day. They will deliver the car to you at the airport.
• Molokai Car Rental easily beats Alamo, with their cheapest cars going for $39 for a week-long rental. They will deliver the car to you at the Airport, or the dock if you have a boat. They can also rent cruiser bicycles for $10-15 a day.
• Turo – is a pricey option for Molokai. The cheapest I could find was an economy car for $82 a day, with pickup/drop-off at the Molokai airport.  If you have never used Turo before, click HERE for $25 off your first rental.
• Alamo – rents cars right from Molokai Airport for outrageous prices. When I last checked it was $79 a day for their cheapest car! If you are using an internet rental search, this is likely all that will show up. AVOID! RENT LOCAL!

If you are really adventurous, and um…cheap, you could attempt to get around solely by the free MEO Bus.  This single bus goes back and forth around the island.

There is no Uber or Lyft on Molokai.

There are a couple of taxi services.  Arrange rides a day in advance to ensure pick-up.  Airport to Hotel Molokai should run $35.

• Hele Mai Taxi  808-336-0967

•  Midnight Taxi  808-658-1410

Stay Connected:

The only place to buy a SIM card on Molokai is the Verizon store next to Molokai Pizza Cafe.  Its best to get this sorted on Maui or Oahu before you arrive.  Cell phone coverage is surprisingly good for such a rural island.  I was able to get coverage way out on Papohaku Beach, and in several spots out on the east side too.

Places to Stay on Molokai:

Camping on Molokai:

There are three campgrounds on Molokai of varying appeal:

One Ali’i Beach Park

Centrally located on the south shore at Mile 3.3 of Kamehameha V Highway, just three miles from Kaunakakai. This Maui County Park has a big grass field with shaded spots for camping and picnic tables. Restrooms, showers, and drinking water are available. It’s convenient for access to Kaunakakai restaurants, but the ocean is too shallow and muddy for swimming here, and you can hear every car that drives by all night long. You can stay a maximum of four nights. The non-Hawaii resident fee is $10 per adult per night Mon-Thur, and $20 per adult per night on Fri-Sat-Sun and Holiday nights. To stay here you’ll have to fill out a Permit application and mail it in the Parks Department ahead of time. NOT RECOMMENDED.

Papohaku Beach Park

At the far west end of the island lies gorgeous three-mile long Papohaku Beach. At this Maui County Park, you can set up your tent in the shade of a kiawe tree. You will hear nothing but waves crashing at night. The ocean is plenty deep for swimming here, but the water can get really rough. Be careful. Restrooms and showers are available. To get here, take Maunaloa Highway (460) West to mile marker 15, then turn onto Kaluakoi Road. Follow Kaluakoi Road for 7 miles to Papohaku Beach Park. You can stay a maximum of four nights. The non-Hawaii resident fee is $10 per adult per night Mon-Thur, and $20 per adult per night on Fri-Sat-Sun and holiday nights. To stay here you’ll have to fill out a Permit application and mail it in the Parks Department ahead of time.   When we stayed here there was only one other tent in the entire campground.  It is a wonderful place to camp! HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!

Pala’au State Park

This state park sits high up on a cliff overlooking the Kalaupapa peninsula. With lots of shade under ironwood tress, and a higher elevation, this is the coolest spot to camp on a hot summer day. A short trail leads to a phallic stone thought to enhance fertility. Restrooms and picnic tables available, but no showers or drinking water. To get here, follow the Kalae Highway (470) past the village of Kualapuu to almost the end. Look for pavilion on left followed by camping area 1/4 mile further on the right. If you reach the lookout parking lot, you went just a little too far. You can stay a maximum of 5 nights, and then must wait 30 days before your next stay. The non-Hawaii resident fee is $18 per campsite, per night for up to six people. You can easily get a camping permit online through the Division of State Parks. This is a nice place to camp! RECOMMENDED.

Hotels on Molokai:

This is an easy section to write. There is only ONE HOTEL on all of Molokai.

• Hotel Molokai – is likely the nicest place to stay on the island. It is oceanfront, and has a pool. Rooms start at $145.

Molokai Vacation Properties:

There are several oceanfront condos.  Wavecrest Molokai and Molokai Shores are two of the biggest.  Your best bet is either Booking.com or AirBnB for a decent Molokai vacation rental.

There are no Molokai resorts.  Molokai doesn’t do fancy.  If you are looking for resorts on Molokai, you’re in the wrong place.

Booking.com

Best Restaurants in Molokai:

Nothing fancy is being served on Molokai, but lots of good home cooking. Only a couple of restaurants serve alcohol, and many places are closed on Sundays. Some places are cash only. Expect “relaxed” service most everywhere.  As one menu states “If you’re in a hurry, you’re on the wrong island.”

In Kualapuu (Upcountry by the airport):

Kualapu’u Cookhouse – “Molokai’s Eating Landmark” If you’re starving when you get off the plane, or need a bite before leaving the island, this is your spot. Located down the street from the airport, the Cookhouse serves huge portions of everything. Prime rib, ono, Ahi, Mahi-Mahi, and crab-stuffed shrimp wrapped in bacon (seriously!) are popular entrees. Big outdoor picnic tables encourage meeting people. Live music on Thursdays. BYOB. Open 7am to 8pm Tues – Sat, 9am to 2pm Sunday, 7am to 2pm Monday. Cash only.

Best Choices in Kaunakakai:

Paddlers Inn Restaurant and Bar (serves alcohol) Certainly the most popular restaurant on the island. People like the pupus, burgers, salads, poke bowls, fresh fish, and sandwiches. Big portions. This is also the nightlife spot of Molokai. Open 10am to 9pm for dining, bar open late. Happy Hour 2-5pm. Closed Sunday.

Molokai Burger has great burgers, but gets even higher marks for their fried chicken. The only drive-thru “fast” food on Molokai. Good breakfasts too. Open Mon-Sat 7am to 9pm.

Molokai Pizza Café is the place for pizza on island.  It’s a modern, sit-down restaurant with A/C and a Pac-Man arcade game.  We enjoyed some pizza and salad and several games of Pac-Man.

Kamoi Snack-N-Go is THE place for ice cream on island. They serve 30 flavors of Dave’s Hawaiian Ice Cream, with some local Hawaiian flavors you won’t find anywhere else.

Kanemitsu Bakery is by far the most historic business on Molokai. This family-owned bakery has been selling “hot bread” out of a side window in a back alley since the 1930s. Every night but Monday from 730pm til 11pm, you can walk up to the window, request the filling you want – strawberry, blueberry, butter, cream cheese, or cinnamon, and get hot bread to go for $8 to $10. Tell anyone from Maui you went to Molokai, and they’ll ask if you brought them back Kanemitsu bread. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner too.

Ono Fish & Shrimp food truck gets the nod for best fish tacos on the island. Also fish n chips, mahi, shrimp. Open only on Tue, Wed, Thur, Fri 1030am to 2pm.

A Taste of Molokai – Poke Truck – served excellent fresh poke at reasonable prices.  We had multiple poke bowls.

Hula Bean Café – is the only real coffee shop on island.  I enjoyed a smooth mocha frappe here.  They also make sandwiches.

Hiro’s Ohana Grill at Hotel Molokai (serves alcohol) is the only true fine-dining on island.

East Side:

Mana’e Goods and Grindz – If you are way out on the East Side and get hungry, look no further. Breakfast, burgers, plate lunch, fried chicken, it’s all good at this little grab’n’go take-out. I recommend the “Paniolo Burger”  with bacon and barbeque sauce.  Open 8am to 3:30pm daily, except closed Wednesdays.

Groceries:

Kaunakakai has two decent sized grocery stores, Friendly Market Center and Misaki’s Grocery.  Molokai Wines and Spirits has a surprisingly good selection of all kinds of beer and wine.  Expect prices in line with the expense of having everything shipped halfway across the Pacific.  Outside of Kaunakakai, your options are limited.  In Maunaloa you’ll find the Maunaloa General Store, in Kaulapu’u lies the Kaulapu’u Market, and way out east, Manae Goods and Grindz has a small convenience store.

Molokai Nightlife:

When I told some Maui local boys that I was looking for a good bar on Molokai, their response was “Why? No can get buss up in Kihei?” Meaning, Molokai is small, tight-knit, and wary of haole (white) outsiders, so going into a bar is a good way to get beat up.   This isn’t true at all anymore though.  For one thing, there is really only one bar.  But don’t expect much excitement in the wee hours on Molokai. Most everything closes up early.

• Paddlers Inn Molokai is the islands most consistently active spot. They have live music of all kinds nearly every night from 630 to 830pm. Sunday afternoons at 3pm they host Na Ohana Aloha for great Hawaiian music. Weekends have a DJ that keeps the place going late.
• Hiro’s Ohana Grill in the Hotel Molokai has Hawaiian music most nights at their poolside bar.
• Molokai Wines N Spirits – This is not a nightlife spot, but it’s the best place for you to load up on whatever you need to create your own nightlife on a deserted beach.  They have a great selection of beer and wines.

Get a Guidebook:

I am unimpressed by the available print and eBook guidebooks to Molokai.  Things change, restaurants come and go, and no print guidebook is going to beat the up-to-date information I’ve researched and listed here.  But, there is one Molokai travel guide that I do recommend:

Franko’s Molokai Guide Waterproof Map is an invaluable resource for the off-grid adventurer.  If you plan to bike and hike or even drive off-road around Molokai, this map will “fill in the blanks” that may show up as empty spaces on Google Maps.

What to Pack:

You can get the basics you need on Molokai, but not at Amazon or Walmart prices.  It’s better to bring with you quality gear at mainland prices.  You also don’t want to be spending your limited vacation time searching for the right stuff.  Here is what I use, and recommend you bring:

Snorkel, Mask and Fins – The Cressi Palau Short Fins provide a mask with a great fit for all faces, durable quality, and great fins that aren’t so long you fall on your face trying to exit the water.  The best snorkeling package value.  You’ll need this to see all the fishies on the barrier reef.

Travel Towel – The PackTowl Personal Microfiber towel is the best travel towel there is.  It’s comfortable, quick-drying, lightweight, and packs down to the size of a paperback book.  Comes in four sizes and eleven colors.  I have the largest size “Beach” at 36 x 59 inches in Blueberry.  Get this towel, and avoid having to buy a crappy convenience store “ALOHA” towel for $29.95 that you’ll never use again.

Reef Safe Sunscreen – Effective January 1, 2021 the State of Hawaii has banned all non reef-safe sunscreens from sale in the islands.  Why not get ahead of the curve, and bring this excellent sunscreen with you?  Thinksport SPF 50 rubs in easily and feels good on your skin.  And you’re saving our coral reefs.

Sunhat – It’s pretty sunny on the south shores of Molokai, and you might want a decent hat to go with that reef-safe sunscreen.  These Hemlock Hat Company wide brimmed straw hats are what all the cool kids are wearing at the beach these days.  I have the “Bandit” color.

While these items are of particular importance to make the most of your visit to Molokai, it would be worth checking out my Ultimate Travel Packing List that covers everything you might need for your trip.

Is Molokai Safe?

Yes, very safe.  The level of safety is comparable to a small farming town in the American Midwest.  Everyone knows everyone.  Crime is low.  It’s hard to steal a car when you got nowhere to drive it to!  Be respectful of locals, and they’ll be respectful of you.

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