Destinations

The Best Things to Do in Swaziland brings you 48 hours of adventure in the Ezulwini Valley.  Stay in a mountainside lodge.  Go on a bicycle-safari past zebra, giraffe, antelope and warthogs.  Experience traditional Swazi village life. Watch a cultural dance performance that will amaze you with its athleticism.

Where is Swaziland?

This tiny, landlocked nation is wedged between South Africa and Mozambique.  It is one of the smallest countries in Africa, at only 120 miles from north to south, and 80 miles across east to west. No two points in the country are more than a two and half hour drive apart.  Swaziland was a British protectorate from 1903 until it regained its independence in 1968.  It is an attractive country, with many different climates, from cool mountainous highlands, to rainforests, and hot, dry savannah lowlands.

What about Swaziland’s new name?  Is it Swaziland or Eswatini?

In April 2018, Swaziland got a new name. To celebrate 50 years of independence, King Mswati III changed the country’s name from Kingdom of Swaziland to the Kingdom of Eswatini.   Eswatini’s meaning is “land of the Swazis” in the Swazi language, and was partially intended to prevent confusion with the similarly named Switzerland.  You’ll still see Swaziland in print everywhere.  It will take time for the new name to take hold.  No one is offended if you still call it Swaziland.

The King of Swaziland has HOW MANY wives?

The government is an absolute diarchy, ruled jointly by King Mswati III and Queen Mother Ntfombi Tfwala.  The King’s official title is Ngwenyama which means “Lion”. The Queen Mother’s offical title is Ndlovukati, meaning the She-Elephant.

You’ll see pictures of the king everywhere.  He currently has 14 wives, and picks up a new one every couple of years.  He simply takes whatever young girl he likes.  In 2002, Zena Mahlangu, an 18-year-old high school student, was kidnapped by government agents and disappeared.  A few weeks later, her mother was notified that her daughter was now pregnant and about to become another wife of the king.

Mswati III was crowned King in 1986 at only 18 years old.  He was the youngest head of state in the world for 15 years!  The King has absolute power in Swaziland.  He cannot be opposed, sued, or brought up on charges.  He has a net worth of over 200 Million USD, while over half of Swazi citizens live on less than $2 a day.  Despite all this, he remains relatively popular among the people of Swaziland.

What are the people of Swaziland like?

The majority of its 1.2 million people are ethnically Swazi, but there are also a small number of Zulu and White Africans, mostly people of families who came here during British colonial times.  Over 100,000 live in the capital, Mbabane (Mbabane pronunciation is BAH-BAHN, the “m” is silent).   Swaziland appears more prosperous than neighboring Mozambique, or even nearby parts of South Africa.  However, it suffers from the most serious health crisis in the world.   27% of the adult population is HIV-positive.  Eswatini also has the highest rate of tuberculosis in the world.   Consequently, despite its relative economic prosperity, it has the 12th lowest life expectancy, at just 58 years.  Despite all this, the people of Swaziland are friendly, welcoming, proud of their heritage and culture, and quick with a smile or a laugh.

How to Spend Two Perfect days Enjoying the Best Things to Do in Swaziland:

Day 1:

We’ll assume a starting location of Johannesburg for your journey to visit Swaziland.  Whether you have a morning flight landing at Johannesburg OR Tambo Airport (JNB), or are already staying in the city, either way you can catch a morning “luxury van service” to Swaziland.  Seats are comfortable and snacks, drinks, and wi-fi are available on board. City Ride leaves the Sandton Gautrain Station at 9am, and OR Tambo International Airport at 10am.  After a smooth 4 hour ride, and a brief stop at the border, you’ll arrive in the capital city of Mbabane at 3pm.  Fares are around $28.

From Mbabane, you can hop on any kombi van heading to Ezulwini for just a dollar.  The City Ride folks can help you find one.  Tell the driver you want to get off at Lidwala Backpacker Lodge.  It is right on the main road to Ezulwini, just a mile before the Gables Shopping Center in the center of Ezulwini.  It will take you 30-40 minutes to get there, depending on how many times the kombi stops to let people on and off.

You’ll be dropped at the foot of the driveway to Lidwala, and walk up a steep hill to a beautiful lodge nestled among trees, boulders, and a bubbling stream.  Drop your bags, and grab a cold Sibebe Premium Lager, you have arrived in Ezulwini Valley, meaning “The Valley of Heaven”!

If you are feeling energetic, you could follow the hiking trails out of the lodge to the very top of Sheba’s Breast mountain for an amazing sunset view.  After sunset, you can pitch in a couple of dollars for a budget communal dinner at the lodge, or you can get a kombi to the Gables Shopping Center.  In this little strip mall, you’ll find several restaurants:

• Sheba’s Rock Spur is a good steakhouse
• Adega The Gables serves Portuguese food.
• Ocean Basket has good seafood and sushi
• Another option is to get a ride a couple of miles north of the Lidwala Lodge to Luxy Garden Restaurant.  It’s the best Chinese food you’ll find in the country.

Day 2:

9am  – Walk or get a ride a mile south down Mantenga Drive to Swazi Trails. This tour company rents mountain bikes.  You’ll want to rent a bike for the day.  A daily (9-5) rental costs around $35USD.

If you are still itching for a decent cup of coffee, pedal your new ride next door to Mugg & Bean in the Gables Center.

After powering up on coffee, its time to pedal a seven kilometer ride to our first stop of the day.

• Exit the Gables Center by taking a right, and head southeast on the main road – MR103.  Keep going for 4 kilometers.
• When you see the sign for Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary, turn right onto D55.  Continue for 3 kilometers.

You have arrived at the  Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary. This wonderful game reserve has no man-eating predators, so you can do a self-guided bike safari past zebra, Roan antelope, warthogs, crocodiles.  The sanctuary won’t be mistaken for the Serengeti, and doesn’t have the Big 5, but where else can you walk or ride a bike right next to so many animals?  Where else can you get a selfie with a wild warthog or a nyala or an impala?  It is really fun to pedal these unmarked trails, getting a bit lost, not knowing what you’ll see around the next corner.  Entry is 100 rand ($7).

The animals are used to human activity, so they don’t run off until you get pretty close.  Being out in the bush on your bike is a thrill, and a very different experience than sitting in a steel cage of a jeep waiting for the guide to point something out to you.  You get to be the hunter!  (Camera hunter that is).

You’ll be pedaling through open grassland, through forest, past watering holes.  There are safari trucks out there as well, but not too many.  You’ll often be relatively alone on the trail.

After a few hours of cycling, you’ll have worked up an appetite.  You could get lunch right here in the Reserve at the Hippo Haunt Restaurant and Bar.  They have a set-price buffet lunch, as well as a la carte sandwiches, and a full bar.  If the Hippo is not your cup of tea, you could also grab lunch back at the Gables Center, as it is on the way to our next stop.

After lunch and a rest, it’s time to for a 10km pedal on to our second stop of the day, The Mantenga Cultural Village.  Aim to depart the Reserve by 2pm.

• Exit the Reserve the same way you came in.  Continue northeast on D55 for 3.2km.
• Turn left onto the main road MR103, continue northwest for 3.6km.
• Turn left just before you get to the Gables Shopping Center.  You’ll immediately pass the U.S. Embassy (a ridiculously oversized and over-guarded fortress). You’ll follow this road for 3 km til you arrive.  Keep looking for the signs.

Mantenga Cultural Village

Mantenga is the last stop on our visit to Swaziland.  Upon entry you’ll first notice a well-built representation of a traditional Swazi village in 1850, a mini complex of sixteen reed-woven huts, and reed fences that serve as windbreaks.  After paying the entry fee, you can wander around the model village.  You’ll see young dancers getting ready and changing into costume in some of the huts.  Hand-made crafts will be on sale.  Tour buses will be dropping people off for the 3:15 dance performance.

Next, you’ll be ushered to a large veranda/stage and seated for the traditional dance performance.   You can order beers and soft drinks for the bar while you wait.  Once it gets going, the drumming and singing and dancing is really quite spectacular.  The ladies do these straight-leg high kicks that put the Rockettes to shame.  The girl on the far left of the picture had lipstick on her shin from the spot where her leg was kicking herself in the face!  The men drum, and stamp their feet in warlike posturing.  If you are sitting in the front, be prepared to be dragged up on stage to join them.  Its lots of fun.  The dancers finish after about 45 minutes, you’ll be encouraged to drop some banknotes in a jar, and then led to the village for a tour.

Back in the model village, your village elder guide will explain the ancient Swazi way of life.  He’ll show you the use and purpose of each huts and how traditional tools are made.  He’s a funny guy and provides an entertaining 20 minute tour.

There are two dance performances each day, at 11:15am and at 3:15pm.  The Village is open 8am to 5pm.  Admission is only 100 rand ($7), but tips are expected for the performers, and for your village guide.

Once the Village tour is complete, you’ll need to return your bike to Swazi Trails by their 5pm closing time.

• Exit the Village the way you came in, and continue for 2km
• Just before you reach the US Embassy, and the main road, turn left on Mantenga Drive.  Continue 1.8km.
• Swazi Trails will be on your left.

After dropping off your bike, it’s definitely time for a cold Sibebe (beer).  There is an excellent pizza place right next door to Swazi Trails; Pizza Vesuvio.  You could also stop in any of the afore-mentioned dinner options in the Gables Center.

Day 3:

8am – Check out of Lidwala Lodge and get a lift down to the Gables Center.  At 830am the City Ride shuttle departs the Gables Shopping Center.  By 2pm you’ll be back in Johannesburg.

Or, for further adventure, why not continue on to Mozambique?  That’s what I did.  To do this, you’ll need to get a kombi to the main bus station of Manzini.  From this chaotic parking lot, you’ll just have to ask anyone where the vans to Maputo are.  You’ll be pointed in the right direction, and find a couple of big vans slowly loading up with people and luggage.  I waited several hours for my van to fill.  We had just one seat left for an hour!  Once we got going, we reached Maputo in five hours, including an hour wait at the border because the Mozambique immigration just didn’t feel like being bothered to process a visa for me.  I’m not sure if they were slow-rolling me waiting for a bribe?  Finally our van driver came in and yelled at them to hurry up, and they got to work.

If you have more time, here are some other awesome things to do in Swaziland:

Mkhaya Game Reserve

This park has game drives that spot both White Rhino and the rare Black Rhino, giraffe, sable antelope, and buffalo.

Hlane Royal National Park

Hlane offers one of the best African safari experiences that most people who visit Swaziland look for.  It has four of the “Big Five” with lion, leopard, rhino and elephant, as well as giraffe, hippo, crocodile, and zebra.

Lobamba

Is the small village where the King and the rest of Swaziland’s royal family live.  You can visit the National Museum, and the Lozitha and Embo state palaces.

Umhlanga (Reed Dance) festival

This is one of the top events to visit Swaziland for.  It’s in August/September, when unmarried women parade in front of the king at the Reed Dance.

The Bushfire Festival

The biggest music festival in the country brings international music stars to the House On Fire in little Swaziland.

Usutu River whitewater rafting

Swaziland has one rough river that will give you a thrill in the summer/fall months.

Malolotja Nature Reserve

This national park has some spectacular hiking, and a canopy zip-line tour.  Open 7am to 4pm in summer, and the zip-line costs R595 ($42).  Other places worth visiting include the Mbuluzi Game Reserve, the Shewula Mountain Camp, and Sibebe Rock.

Best Things to Do in Swaziland: Know before you Go:

Backpacker Daily Budget (Hostel bed, three cheap meals, three beers, two public transport rides, one tourist activity):

$40.  $14 for a hostel bed at Lidwala Lodge.  $3 for milk and cereal breakfast, and $4 street-food lunch, $5 for dinner at Lidwala, $5 for three cold Sibebe Premium Lagers, $2 for two Kombi rides around town, $7 for entry to Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary.

Cheap Beer index:

$1.40  You can get a cold Sibebe Premium Lager for 20 Rand at The Pub and Grill in Ezulwini.

When to visit Swaziland:

Really any time of year is a good time to visit.  It never gets too hot in the touristy areas of the country.  Summer (December – January – February – March) is very nice with highs averaging 80 degrees, and lows of 65.  This is also the rainy season, but not too much at 3-4 inches per month, mostly in thunderstorms.

Wintertime (June-July) is cool and comfortable with highs of 72 and lows of 51.  It hardly rains at all this time of year.  This can be good for safaris.  The vegetation is thin, and animals are clustered around watering holes, so are easier to find.  Just being a sweater.

What language do they speak in Swaziland?

SiSwati and English are both official languages.  SiSwati is the common spoken language, and English is the language of business, schools, and media.  You’ll do fine speaking English everywhere but the smallest villages.

Do you need a visa to visit Swaziland?

No visa is needed.  Nationals of USA, UK, AUS, and CAN can enter eSwatini visa-free for 30 days.

How to get to Swaziland:

Flights to Swaziland:

The only Swaziland international airport is the brand new King Mswati III International Airport (SHO).  This strangely located airport is a one hour drive from Manzini, and a 90 minute drive from Mbabane.  The airport has only ONE FLIGHT ROUTE!  Four times a day, South African Air flies a 50 minute hop between Swaziland and Johannesburg.  This flight starts at $178 one-way, $356 return.  For a budget traveler, it makes no sense to pay this much to fly in here.  Upon landing, you still have a long, expensive cab ride ahead of you.

A much cheaper option to visit Swaziland is to arrive via Johannesburg O.R. Tambo (JNB). Many airlines fly here from all over the world.  European and American flights include:

• • Air France to Paris
  • Alitalia to Rome
  • British Airways to London
  • Delta to Atlanta
  • Iberia to Madrid
  • KLM to Amsterdam
  • Lufthansa to Frankfurt
  • South African Airways to Frankfurt, London, Munich, New York, Washington
  • Swiss Air to Zurich
  • Virgin Atlantic to London

To visit Swaziland from JNB takes about four hours.   Multiple businesses offer “luxury shuttles” which means you get a full seat to yourself,  rather than being crammed in like a sardine as in most African transport.  Transport companies include Sky World, Transmagnific and City Ride.

I strongly recommend City Ride even though I didn’t actually get to travel with them, and here’s why:  Both Sky World and Transmagnific wanted me to complete a bank wire transfer to book a seat on their van!  Like many companies in Africa, they are unable (unwilling?) to deal with the fees of major credit card companies.  They have some local payment system that works for people from South Africa.  For foreigners, they want you to complete a bank wire transfer, which is just ludicrous for a $28 bus ride.  They wouldn’t respond to my offers to pay cash on arrival.  So, I ended up booking with City Ride for 400 rand, as they would accept cash.  The day before my trip, the City Ride van broke down.  Nella from City Ride notified me by email, and offered to book me with one of their competitors.  After several back and forth emails and much last-minute scrambling, she got me a seat on Transmagnific.  Such diligent customer service is hard to find!

By Land from South Africa:

There are multiple border crossings from South Africa.  Minibuses leave from Park Station taxi stand in Johannesburg and stop in Mbabane and end in Manzini.  The fare is 230 rand ($16).  These are traditional sardine-can crammed vans.  You’ll have to wait for the minibus to be full before leaving.

By Land from Mozambique:

There are multiple border crossings from Mozambique.  Vans from Maputo leave when full.

How to get around Swaziland:

Rental car – You can rent a car from the King Mswati III International Airport, or from Johannesburg.  This is a good way to get around, main roads are well paved.  Driving is on the left as in South Africa.  If driving a South African car, you may need a permit from the rental car company authorizing you to take it into Swaziland.  You’ll pay a 50rand ($3.50) road tax upon entering Swaziland.

Kombi minibusus drive up and down the main roads, and you can hail one most anywhere.  Rides cost between 30 cents for a short ride, up to $2 to cross half the country.

Bicycle – Biking is a great way to get around the Ezulwini Valley.  You’ll want to see the Mlilwane Animal Sanctuary on a bike.  Unfortunately, there are no affordable bike rental shops.  The only option in Ezulwini is Swazi Trails, which rents mountain bikes of mediocre quality for outrageous prices by African standards.  I paid r280 ($20) for just a half-day rental.  A day-long rental was in the $35 range, and that’s not even for a full 24 hours, you are expected to turn the bike in by store closing time at 5pm.  Hopefully one of the hostels will catch on to the opportunity, and rent out bikes for something remotely reasonable.

Walking is possible.  The town is quite spread out, so you’ll walk a lot if you want to get to anything.  It is hilly, with poor sidewalks.

Currency of Swaziland:

The currency of Swaziland is the Lilangeni (plural form Emalangeni).  It is pegged at par with the South African Rand (14.2 ZAR = $1 USD) and available at numerous ATM’s.  Both Lilangeni and South African Rand are readily accepted currencies in Eswatini.  However, Emalangeni are NOT accepted anywhere outside of Eswatini.  For this reason, you should ensure that you use up all your Emalangeni before leaving the country.  If you visit Swaziland from South Africa with a pocketful of Rand, then you don’t need to get any Emalangeni.  Eswatini is a largely cash economy.  For more info on your cash-versus-credit card options when travelling, check out my post on How to Access your Money in Foreign Countries.

Swaziland mobile phone providers: 

Mobile phone use is a little difficult when you visit Swaziland.  Few operators offer international roaming in Swaziland.  Of all South African providers, only MTN has roaming here, and for a surcharge.  Data charges are much more expensive than in South Africa.  All SIMs must be registered with the government.

Swaziland has two mobile network providers:

MTN Swaziland – SIM’s are sold in MTN stores and everywhere for about 75 cents without credit. Prepaid is called PayAsYouGo.   You’ll need to top-up immediately.  MTN vouchers can be bought from most major retail stores across the country in the form of scratch cards or till slips. Each voucher has a unique PIN code printed on it. In order to load the indicated amount of MTN airtime onto your phone, simply dial *141*#.
300 MB  costs $10
500 MB  costs $16
1.5 GB  costs $28

Swazi Mobile is a newcomer to the market, and is quickly gaining market share.  They offer prepaid bundles of different amounts, nearly always cheaper than MTN Swazi.  Their “MAX DEAL 4” gives you 30 days with 500 on-net minutes, 100 off-net minutes, 50 local SMS, and 1 GB of data for $14.

Hotels in Swaziland:

There are two main “cities” in eSwatini.  Manzini has 80,000 people, and the capital Mbabane has 95,000.  I don’t recommend staying in either.  Both are congested with traffic, higher in crime, and lacking in nightlife and any exciting activities anyway.  Better to stay in a lovely rural location and enjoy Eswatini’s natural beauty.  Check out the Ezulwini Valley:

Lidwala Lodge in Ezulwini is just wonderful, and certainly Swaziland’s best hostel.  It’s in a beautiful location on the slope of a mountainside.  The buildings are surrounded by big boulders and trees, with a hiking trail to the top of the mountain leading right from the hostel.  A stream runs through the center of the place, with little pedestrian bridges connecting the buildings.  They have a (really cold) pool, and cook dinner each night for just a small “pitch-in for ingredients” fee.  They sell beer and soda from a fridge at the front desk.  The friendly managers can help you book tours.  The lodge is conveniently located on the main road.  You can catch a Combi bus here, or easily walk or bike into the Gables shopping center.  This was the nicest hostel I stayed at in all of my Africa travels!  I could have spent a week here sipping beers and reading a book by the gurgling stream.  Dorm beds start at $14.  There are also several well-equipped private en suite double rooms with verandas and garden views for $62.

Mantenga Lodge – If you really loved the cultural performance, you can stay at this lovely lodge right on site.  It oozes colonial charm, has amazing views, and a pool.  Rooms start at $52 a night with breakfast.

Restaurants in Ezulwini:

Traditional Swazi food is meat served with pap (maize), Barbecued ‘chicken dust’, and wild antelope.  But you can find all types of cuisine here:

• Pizza Vesuvio has great wood fired pizza.
• Sheba’s Rock Spur is a good steakhouse
• Adega The Gables serves Portuguese food.
• Ocean Basket has good seafood and sushi
• Luxy Garden Restaurant.  It’s the best Chinese food you’ll find in the country.

Swaziland Nightlife: 

Nobody visits Swaziland for the nightlife.  It tends to be oriented around drinks with your fellow hostel/lodge mates.  The best bet for public nightlife is The Pub and Grill in the Gables Shopping Center.  If you do meet someone special while out and about, let me remind you that a staggering 27% of the adult population in Eswatini is HIV-positive.  That is more than 1 in every 4 people.  Be careful.

Get a Swaziland guidebook:  

By far the best guidebook out there is the Swaziland Bradt Travel Guide   Bradt easily beats Lonely Planet in detail and accuracy.

What to Pack: 

Swazis dress modestly.  They understand the westerners dress differently, but they will laugh at men in shorts, and make judgements about women in short skirts.   To learn how to pack light and be prepared for anything, check out my post The Worldwide Travel Packing List.

Swaziland Tourism Safety:

Is it safe to visit Swaziland?  Sort of.  Safety is a relative term.  The murder rate in Swaziland is only half that of neighboring South Africa.  Most tourists have no problems as long as they follow some commonsense rules.  At all times, but especially in the main cities of Mbabane and Manzini, I would recommend enacting the same precautions you would in a big city like Cape Town or Johannesburg:

1. While in public, don’t flash ANYTHING of value, like a wad of cash, jewelery, an $800 iPhone, or a nice DSLR camera.
2. Stay on main streets in populated places, and don’t wander off down unknown streets.
3. After sundown, do not walk around ANYWHERE.  Go with trusted drivers directly to and from your destination.

Following these three simple rules will eliminate 99% of risk.

I had no problems during my visit.  Although, I did have an unpleasant encounter.  I walked a couple of miles, while carrying my backpack, from the bus station to my hostel.  During this walk along a quiet back road, I passed a local man also walking in the same direction.  I was walking faster (he seemed to have a limp or some kind of disability), and I said hello to him as I passed.

After I walked by, he calmly said “You are going to die.”  I turned to look at him.  Was he threatening me?  He didn’t look dangerous.  Again he says, “You are going to die.  You’ll never make it.”  “Oh yeah?  How come?” I asked him.  He replied; “It’s dangerous here man.  People get killed.  Someone gonna kill you for that bag.  You never gonna make it where you’re going”.  I didn’t know how to respond.  No one had ever said anything like that to me after months of African travel.  Part of me took him at his word, and I was scared.   I started walking faster, and staring deep into the eyes of every driver that passed me, as if I could determine their intentions in a split second.  I was ready to drop my bag and sprint into the forest if any car had stopped next to me.  As I speed marched away, he kept repeating “You never gonna make it.  You gonna die.”

I made it to my hostel, shaken, but unharmed.  Later that night I brought it up with the other hostel guests, and they all thought it was just a weird encounter, and that I had nothing to worry about.

A more likely danger than street crime is road incidents and accidents.  Assume all drivers are not paying attention / drunk / texting.  Ignore people approaching your vehicle, and drive away if you feel uncomfortable.  Do not stop if you encounter man-made obstructions in the middle of the road.  This is a technique used by robbers to force vehicles to stop.

THANKS FOR READING

Full Disclosure: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links.  This means that if you buy anything, I’ll earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. I only link to stuff I use, love, and recommend.  I don’t accept bribes to endorse garbage. Your clicks help keep this site alive.

THANKS FOR YOUR SUPPORT!

If you enjoyed “Visit Swaziland” please share it with your friends:

“10 Best Things to Do in Minsk” will show you a giant statue of Lenin, a tank on a pedestal, and the active KGB headquarters.  You’ll sample great Belarusian home cooking, have a vodka or three in the thriving nightlife, and end up in a comfy hostel bed, all for $40 a day.

Where is Minsk located?  Minsk is the capital of what country?  

These are some of the most asked questions on Google about this modern, attractive European capital.  It’s so far off the tourist radar, people have no idea of even what country it is in.  “Minsk Russia” is another popular search query.  That gets more searches on google than “Minsk Belarus”!  Americans might only know Minsk from a series of Seinfeld episodes about a fictional film “Rochelle, Rochelle” (“A young girl’s strange, erotic journey from Milan to Minsk”), or possibly the Friends episodes where Phoebe’s boyfriend has to go to Minsk, and none of the flatmates know where Minsk is.  But all that is about to change.  Belarus tourism is on the rise.  Things to Do in Minsk will show you how to get the most out of your visit to this fascinating city.

The Last Dictatorship in Eastern Europe

I had dreamed about travel to Minsk for years, but until just recently, the country’s bureaucracy was not very welcoming to tourists.  Belarus tourism was stuck with the old Soviet style visa requirements long past the fall of the Soviet Union.  You had to get an “invitation”, submit all your pre-booked travel plans, pay a $160 visa fee, mail in your passport with photos, include piles of paperwork, then register with the police.  It was clear they didn’t really want you.  After all, Belarus has long been known as the “Last Dictatorship in Europe”.  Alexander Lukashenko has ruled with an iron fist for over 25 years.

But then, suddenly in the fall of 2016, something within the mindset of the country’s leadership changed.  Visa-free access to the Hrodno region was given to foreign tourists for up to 5 days.  This seems to have been a success, as thousands of visitors came to buy goods and services, and none of them attempted a coup d’etat.  The following February the government announced they would allow visa-free travel for up to 5 days if you fly in and out of Minsk airport.  Belarus tourism began to take off.  I jumped at the chance to peek behind the iron curtain, and see this city of Soviet iconography and street art.

The people of Minsk

Belarusians are friendly and curious to meet tourists.  Whenever I would order a drink in English, heads would swivel around, and someone would ask “Where are you from?  America? Wow, welcome to Belarus!  What are you doing here?”  Belarusians do not get the same opportunities to travel that we take for granted.  While their country has begun to open up to us, the Western world has not yet opened up to them.  The only countries in Europe that citizens of Belarus can travel to visa-free are Russia, Ukraine, Moldova, and Serbia.  As such, some Belarusians have never met someone from outside the former Soviet Union.  You’ll be an interesting oddity to them, and that’s kinda fun.  I got a vibe of small-town kindness from lots of people, which is rare in any city of two million.

Today, Belarusians are caught between the overpowering influence of Moscow and the inviting freedoms of the European Union.  Belarus has no borders with Russia, their citizens can come and go as they please.  Russia provides over 50% of all imports, and buys the bulk of their exports.  They are tied to Russia historically, economically, and linguistically.  Yet, the people long to able to travel and work anywhere in the EU, much like their neighbors in Poland and Lithuania.  Even Ukrainians have the visa-free access to the EU that Belarusians covet.

But Belarusians also see how far Russia is willing to go to prevent its neighbors from falling into the sway of NATO and the EU.  They see what is happening in Eastern Ukraine, and in Crimea.  They know how quickly that could happen in their own backyard.  Politically, Belarusians must tread a fine line so as not to anger the Russian Bear.

What is Minsk Like? 

Minsk is a lovely and historically interesting city, well worth a few days of exploring.  It is spotlessly clean.  This is one of the first impressions of the city; wide streets, tree-lined parks, and almost no trash or grafitti anywhere.  In five days of walking, I never once wandered into what I would term a “bad part of town”.

It is a city still defined by the horrors of the Second World War and the stark, brutalist architecture of the Soviet era.  During the Soviet re-conquest of Minsk from the Nazis in 1944, 80% of all buildings were destroyed.  Afterwards, Minsk was rebuilt completely from scratch.  The historical center was replaced by Stalinist architecture, which favored grand buildings, broad avenues and wide squares.  Practically all the buildings you see are no more than 70 years old.  A staggering 25% of the people of Belarus died in World War II, by far the highest rate of loss by any country in the war.

10 Best Things to do in Minsk:

#1 Go on the Free Walking Tour Minsk

You should plan on joining Free Walking Tour Minsk your first day in town.  You’ll get to see all the main sights around the old town and learn about the city in just a couple of hours.  Then you can decide which spots deserve further exploration.  You’ll see the Upper City and Holy Spirit Cathedral, Victory Square and the Eternal Flame, the Svislach River Embankment market, Church of Saints Simon and Helena, the Island of Tears, the National Library, National Art Museum, the Minsk Metro, and walk down Independence Avenue to Independence Square with the big Lenin Statue.  You’ll also get to see some things you’d never notice on your own, like the (active) KGB headquarters!  It’s an excellent Minsk city tour.  These guides are very knowledgeable, and you get a chance to ask a real Belarusian questions about life here.  The tour meets at 11am every day in front of City hall in the Upper City (Svabody square), near the statue of Voigt “The bronze man”.  Leave a generous tip, especially if the tour group is very small.

#2 See Some Tanks at The Great Patriotic War Museum

This is the best WWII museum I’ve ever seen.  The one must-do in Minsk.   It has every type of weapon used by the Russian Army.  Extremely well done info-graphics explain the timeline of the war.  You’ll learn a lot about the Eastern Front.  Most people have no idea how awful it was.  Budget six hours if you like tanks.  I could have spent two days in the Great Patriotic War Museum.  Open 10am to 5:30pm every day but Sunday.  Entry is $4.

#3 See some Tiny Wonders at the Museum Strana Mini

If you liked making model airplanes, or collecting action figures as a child, this might be the museum for you.  It has intricate miniature dioramas of 30 of the most famous buildings and places in Belarus.  Open 11am to 8pm daily.  Entry is $7

#4 Get Some Culture at the National Opera and Ballet Theatre of Belarus

The building alone is worth checking out on a walking tour.  You’ll have to buy a performance ticket to see the inside.  If you brought some dressy clothes, you can see a top-notch production of Swan Lake for as little as $4!

#5 Walk through Gorky Park and ride the Ferris Wheel. 

Gorky park is a lovely big park with paved paths through forest.  If you wander past the statues and park benches long enough; a giant 185 foot Ferris Wheel materializes over the trees.

#6 Shop at GUM

Do some shopping at this Soviet era chain department store built in 1951.  It’s like opening a window to 1985.  Many goods made in Belarus can be found here, but you’ll have to throw elbows with the babushkas to get to the best stuff.

#7 Visit the Upper City (Old Town)

You’ll see some of this area on your walking tour, but it’s a great place to spend a few more hours just strolling around.  Lots of historic 19th century buildings, churches, sculptures, and little gastropubs and coffee shops to pop into for a rest.  It is a very small “old town” by the high standards of such cities as Krakow or Prague.  Nearly all of the buildings have been painstakingly rebuilt to replicate what much of the city looked like in pre-war days.

#8 Stroll the Svislach River

If you really like walking, you can walk all the way from the Upper City, down along the river past the marketplace and some patio bars and shops, until you finally reach the The Belarusian State Museum of the History of the Great Patriotic War.  It’s a long walk, but pleasant on a sunny day.  You can stop for a beer, or to hire a paddle boat.  A great place for a bike ride or a jog too.

#9 Take a Day trip To Mir and Nesvizh Castles

No too far outside of Minsk, you can drive to the UNESCO World Heritage Sites of Mir Castle and Nesvizh Castle.  It’s possible but difficult to get there via public bus, so a tour might be a better option.

#10 Join the Minsk City Pub Crawl

Go on this affordable and fun tour of the city’s bars and clubs.  Every Friday and Saturday at 830pm, an English speaking local guide takes you on a fun tour of the best nightlife spots.  You get free welcome shots at each venue, and it’s only $20!

10 Best Things to Do in Minsk – Need to Know Before You Go:

Backpacker Daily Budget (Hostel bed, three cheap meals, three beers, two public transport rides, one tourist activity):

$40.  Belarus is not quite as cheap as its neighbors Ukraine or Poland, but it is cheap by Western European standards.  If you stay in one of the well reviewed hostels, that’s $10 a day.  Restaurants like Vasiliki are a terrific value, you can get an amazing meal for $6.  Cheap breakfasts are available in bakeries, so three meals a day can be had for $16.  Beers are more expensive than you’d expect at $3, but I bet you can find them cheaper than I did.  So, three beers is $9 at the most.  You can take three Metro rides for $1.  You can visit the Great Patriotic War Museum, or attend the National Opera for just $4!  That adds up to a great day in Minsk for $40.

Cheap Beer index:

$3.06 (6 Rubles) for a 16 ounce pint of delicious brown ale in was the cheapest I found.  Surely there must be cheaper spots, but I couldn’t find them.

Best Time to Travel to Minsk?

You certainly want to be here in the summer.  June, July, and August are ideal with highs in the low 70s.  Not only is it nice and warm, but also the days are long, with sunrise around 4:30am and sunset at nearly 10pm.  Minsk winter is COLD.  In December, January, and February it doesn’t get above freezing.  June and July are the rainiest months, but not too wet at about 3 inches a month.

What languages are spoken in Belarus?

Belarus’s two official languages are Russian and Belarusian.  Russian is the most common language used at home, used by 70% of the population, while Belarusian, the official first language, is spoken at home by only 23%.  Signs are Cyrillic.  Some young people speak English, but don’t expect to rely on English anywhere.  Time to learn a few words of Russian or practice your hand signals for “I need the bathroom!”

Do you need a Belarus visa?

No.  Visas are not required for nationals of USA, UK, AUS, and CAN for a visit of up to 30 days only if flying into/from Minsk Airport.  Also, you must NOT be arriving or departing to an airport in Russia (this seems to be due to Belarus and Russia having no border controls and acting as a sort of confederation)  You must be able to show evidence of finances equivalent to 25 Euros for each day of stay (having a credit card will suffice).  You must hold a medical insurance policy with at least 10,000 Euros of coverage valid throughout Belarus. If not, you will be required to purchase a policy at Minsk Airport upon arrival.  (This is very cheap, like $2 a day.)  Lastly, you must register with the local office of the Citizenship and Migration Department of the Ministry of the Interior if staying longer than five working days.

• Registration must be completed within five business days of arrival.
• If you are staying in a hotel, the hotel will complete the registration for you.
• If you have a short term rental of an apartment or house, be sure to check with the rental agent; they may be able to assist you.
• If you are staying in a private home, you must complete the registration process yourself.
• If you fail to register or if you remain in Belarus longer than 30 days you will face administrative action which may include a fine of up to €550, deportation, and prohibition from entering Belarus in the future.

Once you land in Minsk, you can travel anywhere in the country, but you must exit the country from Minsk airport.  You get 30 calendar days, so if you land at 1130pm, that half-hour used up one of your days.  There is also an option to enter overland from Poland or Lithuania for up to ten days visa-free, but you can only visit the Hrodna or Brest regions.  Belarus has been gradually loosening its visa controls since 2017, so expect more options soon.  Travel to Minsk, Belarus is getting easier every year.

Getting to Minsk:

You will have to arrive via Minsk National Airport (the Minsk airport code is MSQ) due to the current visa-free restrictions.  Many airlines fly here, and cheap flights from other European cities are easily found.

The airport is 26 miles outside the city.  To get into the city from the airport:

• You can take a 90 minute Bus #3 into the center of town for about $2.
• Or you can call an Uber for about $13
• Get an airport taxi for $15 for a 45 minute ride to the city.
• Or you can pre-arrange a private airport transfer, with a meet-and-greet in the terminal for $28.

Getting around Minsk:

Minsk Metro

Minsk has a clean, efficient and cheap subway system that opened back in 1984.  It consists of two lines and 29 stations, with a transfer station in the center of the city.  One ride is just 31 cents!  You purchase a little red plastic token for .65BYN, drop it through the entry turnstile, and then ride wherever you like.  900,000 people a day take a ride.

Bus, Tram, and Trolleybus 

Tickets are a similar price at .60BYN.   You purchase them directly from the driver or at a nearby kiosk.   You must validate the ticket after you get on by stamping it in the yellow validator onboard.  Route maps are available online.

‘Marshrutka’ or minibus

These are little vans that you hail and get on and pay the driver directly.  However it is unlikely you will know where these are going.  You’ll have to practice your Russian with the driver to find out.

Uber

Certainly the easiest way to get around.  Plenty of drivers are working in Minsk, and I used Uber to get places quickly, cheaply, and with no language barrier.  If you have never used Uber, sign up HERE to get $5 off your first ride.

Taxi

Rather than hailing one on the street, it is more common to telephone a taxi service.  Drivers and dispatchers are highly unlikely to speak English.  They do use meters by law.  The average price is $4-5 for 8-10 km ride.  I can’t imagine why any tourist would choose a taxi over an Uber just due to the language issue, and the need to make a phone call.

Walking

is pleasant, but the city is quite spread out, so you’ll walk a lot if you want to get to everything.  Mix in some Metro rides and Uber.

Belarus Currency and how to get it:

Belarus’ currency is the Belarusian Ruble (2.13 BYR=$1 USD) available at numerous ATM’s.  For more info on your cash-versus-credit card options when travelling, check out my post on How to Access your Money in Foreign Countries.

Stay Connected: 

In the Minsk Airport arrivals area, you can get an MTS Smart Guest SIM card for 14 Rubles ($6.57) which includes 2GB data for 1 month, another 1GB for the 2nd month, 1000 minutes talk time within the MTS network, and reduced international call rates.

Minsk hotels and hostels:

Minsk has several well-reviewed hostels.  The city is very spread out, so really any spot next to a subway line is a good location.

• Hostel K&C has dorm rooms for $10 a night.  This new small 8-bed hostel is clean, quiet, and close to Victory Square and a metro station.
• MyHostel has dorm rooms for $10 a night.  It’s right between the Train Station and Lenin Square
• Trinity Hostel & Tours has dorm rooms for $10.50 a night.
• Riverside Hostel & Tours has dorm rooms for $10.50 a night.

Where to eat in Minsk:

Traditional Belarusian food is very tasty, and you must try some while in town.  While I would never recommend a KFC, the one in Minsk is a must-visit, if just for the photo-op.

• Gastropub Gambrinus is located in the Upper City, and makes the best burger and beer combo I’ve had in a long time.  They have dozens of beers to choose from  I liked it so much I came back a second time.  (It’s not the cheapest option)
• Vasilki is a big traditional Belarusian restaurant right on the main street.  It serves down home comfort food at very reasonable prices.  It was so cheap here, I ordered way more than I could possible finish, just to be able to try everything.  The waitresses were helpful and suggested the best-selling specialties.  If you like potatoes, eggs, pancakes and sausage, you’ll like it here.

Minsk Nightlife: 

Minsk nightlife is excellent.  Belarusians drink a MASSIVE amount of alcohol.  They rank among the top three countries in the world for total consumption.  But, Belarus does not have a thriving beer culture.  Hard alcohol (spirits) make up 50% of alcohol sales, low quality / high alcohol wine 35%, and beer only 15%.  Rather than sipping a beer or two each day, Belarusians favor occasional binge drinking of huge quantities of the cheapest, highest alcohol-content vodka or whatever homemade swill is available.  That said, there are several bars with excellent microbrews.

Zybitskaya street is certainly the place where Minsk nightlife gets going.  A dozen bars dot this area of town.

• TNT Rock club has live rock bands on weekend.   I saw a local rock band playing covers of American and British music here.  The place was absolutely packed, with a great atmosphere.
• Bar Doodah King has live rock nightly around 11pm.  This is a more low-key bar.  The house band played rock to a small seated crowd.  Excellent microbrews on tap.
• Ice Bar is a popular late-night downtown spot.  Located inside one of the imposing buildings on October Square.
• Rich Cat is a discotheque on weekends.  Popular with a younger crowd.  

Get a Belarus guidebook:  

The Belarus Bradt Travel Guide is the best, most up-to-date guide out there.

What to Pack: 

You can wear whatever you’d normally wear anywhere in Europe.  Nothing special is needed for Belarus.  To learn how to pack light and be prepared for anything, check out my post The Worldwide Travel Packing List.

Is Minsk safe?

Yes.  Belarus has a low rate of street crime. Violent crime against foreigners is rare.  Here are some things to consider to stay safe:

• Avoid any demonstrations against the government.  They may be broken up forcibly.
• Do not take photographs of anything that could be perceived as being of military or security interest.  Most likely, you’ll just be made to delete the photo on the spot, but it could cause further detainment.
• Do not leave your drink unattended in bars, casinos and night clubs. There have been reports of travelers being drugged and subsequently robbed or assaulted.
• Use only ATMs located inside major banks, to avoid possible attached skimming devices.
• Avoid using credit and debit cards, stick with cash.  There have been reports of foreigners having their ATM or credit cards skimmed resulting in fraudulent charges or money stolen from their accounts.
• Carry a laminated photocopy of your passport at all times.  Police have the authority to stop you and request identification.
• Same-sex relations are not illegal in Belarus, but discrimination against members of the LGBTI community is widespread.  It is best to keep a low profile.

THANKS FOR READING

Full Disclosure: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links.  This means that if you buy anything, I’ll earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. I only link to stuff I use, love, and recommend.  I don’t accept bribes to endorse garbage. Your clicks help keep this site alive.

THANKS FOR YOUR SUPPORT!

If you enjoyed “10 Best Things to Do in Minsk”, please share with your friends: