The 3 Best Djibouti Tours: Whale Sharks and Volcanic Lakes.

The 3 Best Djibouti Tours gets you outside awful Djibouti City to swim with whale sharks, and set foot on Africa’s lowest point, Lake Assal.

by Worldwide Wilbur, updated March 2019

Why travel to go on Djibouti Tours?

•  You’re in the United States military, have received orders to Camp Lemonnier.  (Djibouti fun fact: it holds the world record for hosting military bases from the most countries; five – the United States, Japan, France, Italy, and China.)
  
•  You saw that Lonely Planet named Djibouti was named one of the top places to visit in 2018, and didn’t get around to reading the fine print about the capital of Djibouti. (which technically is called Djibouti Djibouti.)
•  It is one of the world’s largest consumers of khat, a stimulant leaf chewed to get a jittery bloodshot-eyed buzz.  Coffee is blase, but cocaine is a little too Miami Vice for you, so you’re “here for the khat”
• You are idiotically trying to visit every country in the world, so you had to come to the Horn of Africa.

My experience (November 2017):

I landed in the capital city Djibouti late at night on the last arrival of the day.  The immigration staff were annoyed that I didn’t already have a visa.  After stamping in everyone else, they opened their immigration office and gave me a form to fill out.  Back then, the standard 30 day tourist visa was $90, payable in U.S. dollars.  They also had a 72 hour transit visa for the bargain basement price of $60.  They were surprised I asked for it.  I was the last person out of the airport.  Airport staff turned off the lights and locked the doors behind me.  A lone cab driver was waiting.  No chance to haggle on this fare.  We proceeded into the city through the dark streets lit only by trash barrel fires.  Men in white robes bicycled alongside easily, as my driver crept between deep potholes at less than fifteen miles an hour.

With no streetlights, and no visibly open restaurants or bars, I opted to stay in my hotel, The Residence Lagon Bleu, for the night.

At sunrise, I started my Djibouti holiday with a jet-lagged jog to see if there are any Djibouti tourist attractions.  Some skinny dogs followed me, but didn’t seem threatening.  I found a couple of interesting statues on my way to the port area.  I also managed to get myself hopelessly lost.  After a long, thirsty walk in the rising heat, I hailed a cab and got a ride back to my hotel for an extortionate $20.

After a hotel breakfast of coffee and croissants, I went back out for a walk around the muddy, trash-filled streets for a couple of hours, looking for anything of interest. 

I found the main market, which is of course geared toward locals with fruit and basic supplies.  There is no tourism in Djibouti City.  I’d forgotten to pack a belt, so I started shopping for one.  I soon had two salesman handing me belt after belt until I found a cheap looking belt that would fit.  This belt was worth five bucks maximum.  So, I ask the big opening question, “How much?”.  “6500 francs.” he responds.  $36??!!!

I laugh out loud and walk away.  As expected, this quickly results in much lower offers.  “OK, 3500 for you my friend!” he shouts.  But now I am in a bad mood.  His opening bid was so far off the mark as to be just plain insulting.  It tells me that he judges me to be an idiot.  I no longer want to deal with him, and am not enjoying Djibouti.  I keep walking.

“Wait, 2000, only for you!” he shouts.  I don’t turn around, but can tell he is following.  He pulls alongside, and holds the belt up to my face; “Look! Camel leather! Very fine work! Look! 1500! ” I respond “No!” and make a ninety-degree turn away from him.  I have had enough of him.  He stops and lets me go.  I keep walking the streets in hopes of finding something, anything of redeeming value in this town.  And soon I see that he is still following me from a distance.  I make eye contact, and he rushes back up.  “OK 1200!  Good deal for you!” he says.

At this point a couple other people are watching my interaction with interest.  I am surrounded by mud, goats, piles of vegetables, the smell of fish baking in the sun.  The heat.  I just want to be rid of him, so I start haggling.

“300.” I say.

“1000.” He responds.

“400.” I proffer.

“900.” he counters.

“500. Final offer.” I retort.

“800. Good price!” he sputters.

After an interminable amount of time, we both agree to be mutually unhappy with a final price of 700 francs. $4.  I slide the belt onto my waist and trudge onward.

It’s lunchtime now, so I retreat to the cool comfort of a pizza place.  Pizzaiolo on Rue Ras Makkonen.  I peruse the menu and discover they serve beer.  Joy!  But at the extortionate price of $5.60 a bottle.  Boo!  You can get the very same Ethiopian beer anywhere in Addis Ababa for $1.  If you are a cheapskate like me, you’ll be disgusted and refuse yourself this further indignity.  I eat the pizza in silent bitter sobriety.  It’s actually pretty good pizza.

After lunch, while walking down an alley, a man in front of me walks straight into a huge mud puddle, drops his pants, squats down and washes his nether regions in the brown stagnant water, then pulls up his trousers and continues on.  At that point, convinced I have experienced the true essence of Djibouti tourism, I hunker down in the frigid air of my hotel room to kill time until my flight out. 

I got the hotel to call me a cab, and the fare back to JIB airport is $12.  I can see the U.S. military base adjoining the airport upon takeoff, and I count my lucky stars that I am not United States Private Snuffy assigned to Camp Lemonnier, Djibouti for three miserable years.

Things to do in Djibouti City:  

There aren’t really any tourist attractions or tours in the city.  Get outside Djibouti city as soon as possible.

Things to Do OUTSIDE Djibouti City – Three excellent Djibouti Tours:

There are several decent Djibouti tour operators.  They can arrange tours to the lakes, beaches, or to go diving or snorkeling.  And if you don’t like multi-day tours, you’re in luck, In Djibouti day tours are the rule, as it’s such a small country.  Keep in mind that in Djibouti safaris aren’t really a thing, as there are no large animals out in the desert besides camels.  Some of the best Djibouti tour companies are:

• Bambu Tours – They offer tours all over the horn of Africa.  They go to Moucha and Maskali Islands.  There is even a Djibouti Somaliland tour to the rock art of Las Geel and the coastal city of Berbera.
• Intrepid Djibouti – This overland specialist has an eleven day tour covering all the best sights of the country.

Whichever company you go with be sure to get to the following top experiences:

Best Djibouti Tours – Swimming with Whale Sharks

You can swim with whale sharks from the end of October to the end of January.  Rushing Water Adventures has kayak/snorkel trips with whale sharks.  Dolphin Excursions Djibouti has reasonably priced trips every Friday and Saturday within the season.  Snorkeling with whale sharks is $110 and SCUBA with whale sharks is $170.  Djibouti’s location at the meeting of the Indian Ocean and the Red Sea makes for some excellent diving.

2nd Best of Djibouti Tours: Visit Lake Abbe

Be an amateur geologist and go see Lake Abbe on the border with Ethiopia. Lake Abbe is a salty volcanic lake surrounded by interesting rock formations.   It has flamingos strolling amid 150 foot limestone chimneys spouting steam into the air.  You might even meet some Afar tribesman who live nearby.

3rd Best of Djibouti Tours: Get down to Lake Assal

Get to Africa’s lowest point, Lake Assal, at 509 feet below sea level.  Lake Assal is the third saltiest body of water in the world and the third lowest point on earth, and the world’s largest salt reserve.  It’s only 75 miles from the city.

Djibouti Tours: What to Know Before You Go:

Backpacker Daily Budget:  (A dorm bed at a hostel, 3 budget meals, 2 public transportation rides, 1 paid cultural attraction, 3 cheap beers)

$100.  Hotels and restaurant meals in the capital of Djibouti are much more expensive than in neighboring countries.  The Gross Annual National Income per capita is only $1030, but tourist related services are very expensive.  Alcohol is ridiculously expensive.

Cheap Beer index:

$5.60 (1000 francs) for a 12 ounce bottle of basic Ethiopian beer in a restaurant.  Possibly the most expensive beer in Africa.

When to Visit Djibouti?

If you really have to, you definitely want to come in wintertime.  November thru April is pleasantly warm with highs in the 80’s, lows in the 70s.  Also, the whale sharks are around from December to February.  May thru October the Djibouti climate is HOT,  starting in the 90s and even up to an AVERAGE HIGH OF 106 in JULY AND AUGUST!  Yes, that means it is around 106 every day for two months.

What languages are spoken in Djibouti?  

Nearly everyone’s first language is either Somali or Afar, but most also speak some French and Arabic.  English is rare, but found in tourist businesses.

Do you need a Djibouti Visa?

Djibouti Visas are required for nationals of USA, UK, AUS, and CAN. You must get a Djibouti eVisa before your trip.  As of May 1, 2018 there is NO Djibouti visa on arrival issued at JIB airport anymore.  Visitors can apply online for a transit visa valid for 1-14 days for just $12USD or a short stay visa valid for 15-90 days for $23USD.  If arriving overland, you must get a Djibouti visa in advance, none are available at land borders.  Djibouti visa requirements are: a passport valid for at least 6 months, a flight reservation (or any other possible means of transport), an accommodation address (hotel or at your host’s), an invitation letter (organisation or host with their contacts) and a credit card (visa, Mastercard or American Express).  You can complete a Djibouti visa application here:  https://www.evisa.gouv.dj/

How to get to Djibouti?

• You can travel overland from Somaliland, which is only 12 miles away.  The roads are pretty bad, a 4×4 is recommended.  If heading to Somaliland, you need to get a Somaliland visa, which can be obtained in their embassy near the Sheraton.
• You can also travel overland from Ethiopia.  A brand-new Chinese-built passenger train opened in 2018.  It leaves Addis Ababa Furi-Lebu station on odd-numbered days at 800am and arrives in Djibouti City’s Negad Station at 840pm.  Tickets for foreigners cost $36 for a seat, $74 for a “hard sleeper”, and $98 for a VIP soft sleeper. The train is clean and comfortable.  It has a dining car, but it had nothing but sodas and snacks at last check, so you should bring food.  A taxi from Djibouti Negad station to central Djibouti takes around 15 minutes and costs around 1500 DJF.  Check The Man in Seat 61 for up-to-date info on the train.  There is a bus from Addis to Djibouti. It will take a full day.  Heading to Ethiopia, you need to have an Ethiopian visa, which you can get in Djibouti City.  
• The border with Eritrea is closed as of 2019, but relations are thawing, and it may open soon.

• The most common arrival would be via air.  Flights to Djibouti land at Djibouti-Ambouli International Airport (JIB).  Learn how to get flights to Djibouti for free on my page: Nine Steps to Free Flights Worldwide. The airport is a 30 minute cab ride away.  A cab should be 2000 DJF ($12) each way, but 3000 at night.  Flights to Djibouti arrive from the following cities:
  • Addis Ababa – Ethiopian Airlines, Kenya Airways, Djibouti Airlines
  • Aden – Safe Air
  • Dire Dawa – Ethiopian Air, Safe Air
  • Doha – Qatar Air
  • Dubai – FlyDubai
  • Hargeisa – Safe Air
  • Istanbul – Turkish Air
  • Mogadishu – Turkish Air
  • Nairobi – Kenya Air
  • Paris – Air France
  • Sharjah – Coyne Air

Djibouti’s currency and how to get it:

Djibouti is a cash economy and credit cards are not widely accepted.  ATM machines are limited.  Djiboutian Francs (178 DJF=$1) are available at just a handful of ATMs.  It is also normal and legal to exchange currency with street vendors, but be vigilant to scams, rates, and personal safety.  For more info on your cash-versus-credit card options when travelling, check out my post on How to Access your Money in Foreign Countries.

How to stay connected in Djibouti:  

Djibouti has only one telecom operator; Djibouti Telecom.  It is one of the last countries in the world allowing its national telecom Djibouti Telecom (DT) a monopoly on all telecom services, including fixed lines, mobile, internet and broadband. The lack of competition means prices are not so cheap by African standards.  SIM cards cost 1000 DJF ($6).  To get a SIM card, you need to bring a passport to a Djibouti Telecom or any electronics shop.  For more info on your telecom options, check out my post on How to Get Cheap Mobile Phone Service Worldwide.

Cheap Djibouti Hotels:

There are no hostels in Djibouti City.   Djibouti hotels are expensive by African standards.  You do need to book something ahead of time to get your visa.  Expect to be underwhelmed by Djibouti hotels and the value of your lodging.

• China Shandong Restaurant and Hotel has single rooms with AC, WiFi, and a shared bathroom for $35.  This place is well reviewed, well located, and one of the cheapest hotels in Djibouti City.  They have a restaurant on site, and can arrange tours.
• The Residence Lagon Bleu  has rooms with AC, wi-fi and bathroom for $75.  Check-in might take an hour.  When I stayed here the front desk guy received multiple phone calls that involved him shouting angrily at someone in Arabic and then in French.  Then he was unable to make the key-card system work.  I sat there in the musty 90 degree air slowly melting into the floor.  Eventually, I was led into a comfortable, windowless, cell-like room, with fridge, cable TV and arctic cold air conditioning.  Compared to what I saw on the way in, it was luxurious.  
• La terrasse Villa Guesthouse Djibouti is the highest rated Djibouti hotel.  You get a lovely double room with breakfast for $75.  It is stylish and has a rooftop patio.
• Djibouti Palace Kempinski If you really want to make the most of your stay in Djibouti, why not splurge for a room at the Djibouti Palace Kempinski for just $353 a night?

How to get around Djibouti City:  

• You can hail a taxi. Fares are expensive by African standards.  $5 for a short ride, $10 across the city.
• There are privately owned minibus/vans that transport people across town.  Fares are as little as 25 cents.  The driver may only speak Somali or Afar, so your only hope to use these is to just say the name of where you want to go, and the driver will either nod you on-board, or say no.
• No Uber or Lyft in Djibouti.
• Rental car is the best way to get around outside the city.

Where to Eat:

• Melting Pot – Asian fusion
• La Pizzaiollo – Pizza and other italian dishes.  I really enjoyed their pepperoni pizza.
• La Mer Rouge – Seafood.
• Cafe de la Gare – French cuisine.
• Kurry, Flavour of India – Indian.

Djibouti City Nightlife:

The nightlife is pretty lively, with foreign military men here in abundance, and with all the vices that entails…

• Club Menelik – is a nightclub on the ground floor of the Hotel Menelik.  A mixture of locals, military, and expats, a hopping place most nights.
• Safari – nightclub in the Djibouti Palace Kempinski.  The swankiest place in town, and the main place for expats to socialize.
• Tropicana – a big nightclub, popular with locals, that fills up very late at night.  Exercise caution in here.

Travel Tips – Is Djibouti safe?

Yes.  Crime levels in Djibouti are relatively low.  In Djibouti tourism safety is highly regarded by the government.  There are no Djibouti travel advisories in place by the US State Department.  Here is some travel advice to stay out of trouble: 

• Avoid travelling alone to isolated places, particularly coastal areas like Dorale and Khor Ambado.  Do not travel outside the city at night.
• Djibouti is earthquake prone.  If one occurs, drop to the ground; take cover and hold onto something solid until the shaking stops.
• The narcotic leaf Khat is widely chewed.  It’s legal in Djibouti but not at home, so don’t bring any back for your friends.
• Public displays of drunkenness can result in a two year prison term.
• Homosexuality is illegal.
• Safeguard your health and stay current on all your immunizations.  Yellow Fever jabs are not required for Djibouti.
• Photographing public infrastructure (public buildings, seaports, the airport, bridges, military facilities or personnel) is illegal.

Get a Djibouti guidebook:

Other than the Camp Lemonnier Survival Guide, the only guidebook focusing on Djibouti is: Welcome to Djibouti: arrive, survive, and thrive in the hottest country on earth 

What to Pack:

Djibouti is a conservative Islamic country, so shorts and any revealing clothing is a no-no.  You should bring light material and light-colored clothing to stay cool.  Sandals are acceptable and standard footwear, though muddy, trash filled streets may encourage closed-toe shoes.  A good sun hat will come in handy.  To learn how to pack light and be prepared for anything, check out my post The Worldwide Travel Packing List.

Final thoughts:

I’ve been to a few miserable places in my travels.  Some places that come to mind are San Salvador, El Salvador; Chimoio, Mozambique; and….any big city in India.  But all of those places have some redeeming qualities.  Mozambique has gorgeous beaches, and friendly people.  India has the best food in the world, and outstanding historic forts and temples.  Both of those countries are also extremely cheap.  Djibouti City is filled with trash, with nothing interesting to see, no nightlife, AND it is very expensive.  Djibouti officially wins the bottom spot in my list.  It is my least favorite country.  Dead last.

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