This “Living on Kwajalein Atoll” guide will get you sailing to a desert island, lounging on a white sand beach, eating in the chow hall, and enjoying island nightlife. It explains how to get here, things to do, where to stay, what to see, where to eat, and more.
by Worldwide Wilbur, November 2018
Living on Kwajalein Atoll is unlike any other US Army post in the world.
Army Garrison Kwajalein is a restricted ballistic missile research and testing site, on a remote island leased from the Republic of the Marshall Islands (RMI). Totalling just 1.2 square miles, around 1,000 American soldiers, defense contractors providing logistics support, and their family members, are living on Kwajalein Atoll. It is covered in palm trees, an airstrip, big concrete buildings, green grass, and paved roads. One one side of the island is the worlds largest lagoon, on the other side, the open Pacific Ocean. Living on Kwajalein feels like you’ve been transported through time and space to a decaying US Army base located in the Florida keys in 1985.
Kwajalein was a major battleground in WWII.
Kwajalein Atoll had little involvement with the outside world until German occupation from 1899, and then a Japanese takeover after World War One. Japan used Korean slave labor to fortify and militarize Kwajalein in the late 1930’s and early 1940’s. U.S. air forces softened up the Japanese defenses by destroying all their aircraft in carrier-based air raids in December of 1943, and January of 1944. They then took the atoll in a bloody four-day battle known as Operation Flintlock on February 3, 1944. 46,000 US Navy, Marines, and Army soldiers took on about 8,000 Japanese. 36,000 artillery shells were fired from the battleship Tennesee and from Army artillery on captured Carlson island. B-24’s dropped bombs from the air.
After four days, only a couple hundred Japanese soldiers were still alive and they were captured by amphibious landing Army troops. Mass graves for the 4,300 Japanese casualties were hastily dug, and are at least one is still somewhere hidden underground. Residents are not allowed to dig more than 6 inches into their lawns, but that’s less about mass graves than it is about unexploded ordnance from 1944.
Immediately after WWII, the US kept control of the Marshall Islands, and used Kwajalein as the command center for 67 nuclear bomb tests on Bikini and Enewetak Atolls from 1946 to 1963. In 1964, the United States started anti-ballistic missile testing with the Nike-Zeus program, with Kwajalein as the hub.
What can you do for fun living on Kwajalein Atoll?
- go sailing to desert island Bigej, on a friend of a friend’s sailboat from the Kwajalein Yacht Club.
- go deep sea fishing on another friend’s powerboat.
- Swim and relax at the man-made white sand beach.
- Snorkel right from shore. The spot by the beach on the lagoon side is best. It has a concrete stair entry, and very shallow water.
- Go SCUBA diving to one of the many wrecks in the lagoon. Tank refills are available at the marina shop.
- go Windsurfing or Kitesurfing in the reliable 14mph trade winds. You’ll have to borrow the equipment from someone, there is none for rent.
- Bicycle laps around the island. You’ll have to borrow a bike from someone, there are none for rent.
- Play 9 holes on the Kwajalein Atoll golf course by the airstrip.
- Ride the ferry for a day trip to Ebeye Island. (free) Just walk over and get on.
Kwajalein is among the most remote spots of land on Earth.
It is 2000 miles from Australia, 2100 miles from Japan, and 2100 miles from Hawaii. The only way to truly appreciate how enormous the Pacific Ocean is, is to spend a couple of days flying over it. Hawaii is 5.5 hours from the mainland USA. Kwajalein Atoll is another 6 hours in the same direction. And if there was a direct flight to Australia, it would be a further 6 hours. That’s 17 hours of flying 500 miles per hour, and all you would see in that time is a couple large Hawaiian islands, and some specks of land in the Marshall’s.
Living on Kwajalein Atoll is like being in a perpetual summer camp for adults.
Everyone cycles slowly from place to place, waving to each person they pass. Someone is having a party every weekend and you are invited. Everyone knows someone who has a sailboat. Kwaj attracts the adventurous types. Folks are moving there from Antarctica, or leaving on a sailboat for a year. Some have been there for twenty years. Some would probably prefer to retire, but you can’t retire and stay on Kwaj, so they keep working. It’s a tight-knit community where people help each other out.
Kwajalein is in fact a real army base.
Kwaj really is a regular old Army base with the standard brown signs on every concrete building, but with the best background scenery of any base on Earth. You can jump in right off the shore for some excellent snorkeling at one end. Then relax at a beautiful man-made white sand beach nearby. The base has all the modern conveniences you’d expect anywhere else. The grocery store is stocked with all the American staples like Doritos, and doughnuts, and soda. You can buy the most up to date cell phones and electronic accessories next door. Apartments and houses have good air conditioning and wi-fi. People here live a much, much, much better life than on any other remote Pacific island.
Kwajalein Atoll Jobs:
There are always a few open jobs here. You must be a U.S. citizen. Many jobs require a security clearance. Some are “unaccompanied”, so not so good for married folks. Check out open Kwajalein jobs here: KwajNet
Cost of Living on Kwajalein Atoll:
Living on Kwajalein island is not only a great lifestyle, it can also be very lucrative. You can eat three meals a day for free at the cafeteria. All housing is owned by the US Army, and is free for contract workers. Electricity and water service is free. If you are a contractor (as most people are) you don’t have to pay US Federal taxes on your salary, only a 5% Republic of Marshall Islands tax. If you are smart enough to claim a US state with no income tax as your “permanent residence”, you’d pay no state income tax either. Most Kwajalein jobs include a stipend for a plane ticket to the mainland once a year for your vacation. You have literally zero expenses, and could conceivably save 85% of your salary!
What about the Marshallese?
Many Marshallese work on Kwaj, but they all have to be off the island within two hours of the end of their shift. The Army provides a free ferry to nearby Ebeye island where all the workers live. It seems like a strange version of apartheid, but there are lots of American civilians who work on military bases on the mainland, who also don’t get to live on that base. It’s just that here instead of driving home after work, they take a ferry to another island. And believe me, Ebeye is not just another island, it is a whole other planet away from Kwaj.
How can you stay active on Kwajalein?
When you aren’t at your job, you can swim in one of two saltwater pools, play on multiple tennis courts, racquetball courts, and basketball courts. There are playing fields for baseball, softball, and soccer. The Corlett Recreational Center (CRC) has indoor basketball, volleyball and soccer. There is a nine-hole golf course near the airport, a bowling alley, libraries, a fitness center and two movie theaters. You can rent boats for water skiing and fishing at the Kwajalein marina. You can spear-fish, deep-sea fish and scuba dive. Whatever you like to do, it’s happening in Kwaj, and you can find someone to join you. Except for skiing. The skiing isn’t so good.
Go before the islands cease to exist.
The average height above sea level in Kwajalein is only 6 feet. Once sea level rises 16 inches above its current state, the entire Marshall Islands drinking water aquifer will become undrinkable, rendering the entire nation uninhabitable. Scientists project that this WILL occur sometime between 2045 and 2083. The population will have to move. There is no plan for where as yet.
Things to Know Before you go to Kwajalein:
Kwaj Backpacker Daily Budget:
$27. Your housing will likely be free (there are no independent hotels), your meals $6 each at the cafeteria, beers are $3. There is not much else to spend money on.
Cheap Beer index:
$3 for a Bud Lite at the only bar on island, the Ocean View Club.
When to visit Kwajalein Atoll:
At 8 degrees above the equator, the temperature never changes on Kwaj. Highs are 86, lows 77, every day, year round. There is a rainy season from mid-April to mid-December, and is rains 10-12 inches a month during this time. January, February, and March are the driest months, with 4 inches of rain monthly.
What languages are spoken on Kwajalein Atoll?
English, and also Marshallese by the day-workers from Ebeye.
Do you need a Marshall Islands visa?
Republic of Marshall Islands visas are not required for US citizens, who can stay as long as they like. Visas are not required for UK citizens (until Brexit), who can stay for up to 90 days. AUS and CAN citizens can get a free tourist Visa On Arrival to stay for up to 30 days. They must provide a “police record” dated within last 3 months, and a “health clearance” showing they are free from HIV/AIDS and TB; dated within last 3 months. All visitors must have a passport valid for at least six months, must have sufficient funds for stay, and have an onward/return air or sea ticket. (NOTE: These are Republic of Marshall Islands tourism rules, none of which exactly apply to Kwajalein – see below)
However, living on Kwajalein island is restricted to active-duty US military personnel and civilian contractors with proper orders. Kwajalein tourism is NOT accessible to the general public. You can only visit if you are “sponsored” by a U.S. citizen working on the island. Your on-Kwaj contact will process paperwork to get you “Entry Authorization” orders. United Airlines will not allow you on the plane without these orders. So, if you want to visit Kwaj, better start networking among military contractors in the Pacific region. You could start with the KwajNet facebook group. Or check out Kwajalein jobs here: KwajNet
Getting to Kwajalein Atoll:
Flights to Marshall Islands: 99% of visitors to Kwaj arrive via United Airlines at Bucholz Army Airfield (KWA). United Airlines “Island Hopper” Flight 154 departs from Honolulu, Hawaii on Monday, Wednesday and Friday and costs $1400+ roundtrip. It makes one short stop in Majuro, taking a total of seven hours. The Island Hopper flight 155 departs from Guam Monday, Wednesday and Friday and costs $1200+ roundtrip. It makes stops in Chuuk, Pohnpei and sometimes Kosrae, taking around seven hours. You REALLY want to fight for a window seat on either of these flights. Seeing these little islands pop up out of the endless blue ocean is magical. You can de-plane at any of these stops to look around, take pictures, and buy a snack in the tiny one-room airports.
Ideally, you should book your flight using United Mileage Plus Miles. While the cheapest round trip flights to Marshall Islands from Honolulu are an eye watering $1400, you can book it for just 55,000 United miles, which have a calculated value of only $825. I booked a multi-city flight from Maui via Honolulu with three stops in Kwajalein, Pohnpei, and Palau and then back to Maui using just 67,500 United Mileage Plus miles. If you are booking an island hopping trip, you can choose to stop in any or all of the four Micronesian islands, the two Marshall islands, and Guam and Palau. To learn the most efficient way to accumulate United Miles, please check out my page Nine Steps to Free Flights Worldwide.
Air Marshall Islands also lands here, and provides service to 13 other islands in the RMI.
When you land at KWA, you’ll quickly learn this is not a normal airport. There will be a flight announcement that it is illegal to take photos of any government buildings once on the tarmac. Kwajalein is de jure part of the Republic of Marshall Islands, but it is de facto 100% America. The US pays $18 million a year to the Marshall Islands government to lease Kwaj, which then pays the owners of the islands because all land is privately held. The lease is in force until 2066, with an option through 2086.
There is no contact with RMI government for any customs or immigration. You’ll be met at the stairs by a couple of very serious, large, armed American police. They’ll direct you to walk into an open-air cage of concrete and fencing. You’ll sit on plastic chairs, and be given papers to fill out. The large, serious men with guns will tell you all the rules of being on Kwaj. No betel nut chewing. Do not touch fences. No entering unauthorized areas. Many of the people in the cage are Marshallese citizens who are continuing on to the nearby island of Ebeye. Those folks are led into a waiting van, which takes them directly to the ferry to Ebeye. No one wanders around Kwajalein unknown. You’ll get a badge which you must wear (or at least have) at all times on the island. Once you have your badge, you’ll be let out of the cage, where your “sponsor” has been waiting. Welcome to Kwaj!
Getting around Kwajalein Island:
There are no personally-owned cars for anyone living on Kwajalein. It is possible to rent a truck or a golf cart for a couple of hours if you need to move stuff from one end of the island to another. The vast majority of your travel on island will be by bicycle. Bicycles aren’t available for rent, but every resident has at least one, and someone will have an extra clunker you can use. Normen “Auntie” Sablas has a fleet of 85 bikes available for free to visitors.
Kwaj Currency and how to get it:
U.S. Dollars are used everywhere in the Marshall Islands, and are available at a couple of ATMs. For more info on your cash-versus-credit card options when travelling, check out my post on How to Access your Money in Foreign Countries.
Kwajalein Internet and Phone Service:
There are no cell phone towers on the island. Landline phones are still in use all over the island. Phone calls are free. WiFi is available in all homes, and some businesses. For more info on your telecom options, check out my post on How to Get Cheap Mobile Phone Service Worldwide.
Kwajalein Atoll Real Estate:
You can’t buy a home here. In fact, there are only two options for lodging; stay for free with your sponsor in their house or apartment, or stay at the Kwaj Lodge.
- Kwaj Lodge – basic motel rooms. You won’t find it on Booking.com, cause it can only be booked by your sponsor.
Where to eat on Kwaj:
- Captain Louis S. Zamperini Dining Facility – This Army-style chow hall is the biggest food option on island. Meals here are free for local staff, so pretty much everyone living on Kwajalein eats here. It’s all-you-can-eat buffet style, and pretty darn good. And it’s named for the wartime hero of the book and movie Unbroken who was held here for 42 days and tortured in a Japanese POW camp. Watch this film before your visit. You’ll see why it’s kinda funny they named, of all things, a dining facility after Captain Zamperini.
- Subway – tastes just like your Subway at home.
- Burger King – somehow not quite as good as your Burger King back home.
- Donato’s Pizza – serves by the slice. Tastes like pizza.
Kwajalein Island Nightlife:
There are only four types of nightlife on Kwaj, and they generally occur in the following order:
- Start with a backyard barbecue at someone’s house by the ocean. Only married folks and high-ranking military living on Kwajalein get assigned to an actual house. These tend to be the kind of folks who can afford to feed lots of people. They may also prefer to shut it down early.
- Alternately, there might be a party at the Kwajalein Yacht Club. You don’t even need to own a yacht to attend.
- Next you move on to a party in someone’s apartment. Apartments get assigned to single folks. These parties can go late. But if it starts to wind down…
- You end the night at the Ocean View Club aka “The Snake Pit“. This is the only actual bar on the island. It’s an A-frame building open to the air, and it has an ocean-side view. It has a full liquor bar, and beers are $3 and up. There is a dance floor, and a free computer-jukebox behind bulletproof/drunkproof glass. You might find 2 or 20 people there on a given night. It is the last stop of any night out on the town, as is open til 3am. Expect to find folks too drunk to speak or move.
Get a Marshall Islands guidebook:
There are NO guidebooks that cover Kwajalein.
What to Pack for Kwaj:
You can get the basics you need on Kwaj, but not at Amazon or Walmart prices. It’s better to bring with you quality gear at mainland prices. You also don’t want to be spending your limited vacation time searching for the right stuff. Here is what I use, and recommend you bring:
Snorkel, Mask and Fins – The Cressi Palau Short Fins provide a mask with a great fit for all faces, durable quality, and great fins that aren’t so long you fall on your face trying to exit the water. The best snorkeling package value. You’ll need this to see all the fishies on the barrier reef.
Travel Towel – The PackTowl Personal Microfiber towel is the best travel towel there is. It’s comfortable, quick-drying, lightweight, and packs down to the size of a paperback book. Comes in four sizes and eleven colors. I have the largest size “Beach” at 36 x 59 inches in Blueberry.
Reef Safe Sunscreen – Effective January 1, 2021 the State of Hawaii has banned all non reef-safe sunscreens from sale in the islands. Why not get ahead of the curve, and bring this excellent sunscreen with you for all your beach trips? Thinksport SPF 50 rubs in easily and feels good on your skin. And you’re saving our coral reefs.
Sunhat – It’s pretty sunny here, and you might want a decent hat to go with that reef-safe sunscreen. These Hemlock Hat Company wide brimmed straw hats are what all the cool kids are wearing at the beach these days. I have the “Bandit” color.
While these items are of particular importance to make the most of your visit, it would be worth checking out my Ultimate Travel Packing List that covers everything you might need for your trip.
Is Kwajalein safe?
Kwaj is about the safest place on Earth. Everyone living on Kwajalein had to pass a government background check to get there. There is no known crime, other than the occasional drunk “borrowing” of a clunker bicycle.
The water is safe to drink, thanks to the efforts of master water engineer Eric Nystrom.
There are big black-tip and nurse sharks in the water by the marina. Maybe not the best place to go snorkeling.
If you bicycle around the airstrip, pay attention to the sign that reads “WATCH FOR AIRCRAFT”. United flight 154 landing on your head is to be avoided.
Like This Article? Pin it!
THANKS FOR READING
Full Disclosure: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. This means that if you buy anything, I’ll earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. I only link to stuff I use, love, and recommend. I don’t accept bribes to endorse garbage. Your clicks help keep this site alive.
THANKS FOR YOUR SUPPORT!
If you enjoyed “Living on Kwajalein Atoll”, please share with your friends:
C Miles says
Anyone know a Jacqueline A. (Miles) Smith? I was told she worked 10 years (I think as nurse) on Kwaj 1965-1975?
Ronnie says
Was there for 3 years, 69-73.
I have so many wonderful memories, made some great friends. Loved the simplicity of life there.
Anonymous says
What happens if your 55r mobilization gets denied as a potential contractor to work on Kwaj? I am sure it has something to do with my background, but that was 12 years ago. I was told an appeal has to take place along with a 55r resubmission.
Steve says
During my military career, as an aircraft loadmaster, we frequently had to transit “Kwaj” because there was no room at Wake Island (1966-1973).
During my civilian working life, crane and aerial lift equipment certifier, I spent three weeks there (1989) as a sub-contractor to Dyne Corp doing what I knew best. The people I worked with were an outstanding group of individuals. The accommodations, for me, was a double-wide trailer with all the comforts of home. and the okut-door movies, every night, were very entertaining. The beach that was 200 yards from my quarters was very nice except for the biting flies and was utilized, for some of the days I would venture there, by only me.
I would like to return for a short visit before my time is up.
Bill Gustafson says
My dad was in the Navy CEC and was Public Works officer in 1957 I think. I remember riding my bike everywhere, taking Navy showers to conserve water, going to outdoor movies in the rain wearing ponchos, and feeling really sad when we left for the States without the dog we adopted.
Dennis Nelsen says
I was on Kwaj from 1972-1973 with Bell Labs on Meck. Anybody else from Bell Labs at that time?
Janet Linn says
My parents lived in Kwaj for close to 20 years. My dad worked for M.I.T. I was 17 when they left the U.S.and my younger brother moved out there with them and graduated from high school on Kwaj. I took six trips there while I was a college student, and I lived and worked in the bowling alley the summer of 1975! My mother and father became scuba divers, my mother discovered a new shell there and it was named after her. She also published her live shell photos in an encyclopedia of tropical shells! My father,Kermit Peardon, just passed away last November age 96. He was quite high up at Roy Namur, and was able to work there as long as he wanted. I’m sure many people remember him.I snorkled every day I was there. My daughter lived in Hawaii for five years while her husband was in the army and I visited them there at least 6 or7 times. Being on Hickham, renting military boats, snorkeling etc. reminded me of those idyllic days on Kwajalein!
Anne Trainer says
My DH originally went to Kwaj in early 1983 as unaccompanied but was able to turn that into an accompanied position that qualified for housing, so we moved up our wedding date, sold the car, found homes for the cats, and off I went with him back to Kwajalein where I spent what I often refer to as my five-year honeymoon. I loved every single minute of those five years and wasn’t ready to leave when it was to go. So many memories; Emon Beach, Air Micronesia, Sam Bellu, Father Hacker, Father O’Brien, silver city, “Macy’s”, “Safeway”, Wally at the Yokwe Yuk and so many more. Thanks so much for taking me back down memory lane.
B says
Anyone know what it’s like to work as a contracted firefighter there?
Steve says
I lived there as a kid in the early-mid 60’s. My dad worked with the radars and traveled back and forth to Roi-Namur every day. Would love to go back for a visit. Anybody know a current resident that might be willing to sponsor me and my wife?
dm says
there is a 5 day quaratine in hawaii and a 2 week quarantine in Kwaj as of today 5/22. Very difficult to ‘hang there’ during these difficult times.
bill sievers says
Was on Kwaj the summers of 1967 and 1968. Do you remember everyone buying a Titus diving watch? Everyone had one:)
Do you remember the Army Colonel Black, and his daughter Borden?
Thanks
richard e.clapp says
I was there from 1966-1968 working for Bell Labs. I played a lot of tennis and learned to Scuba Dive. My friend, Leon Conway and I dove 150 feet many times to get black coral which I brought back to the U.S. and still have some in my home in Hilton Head Island, South Carolina. I have a beautiful shell collection that have exhibited a few times. I took a boat trip to Ebeye with my son once.
bill sievers says
I worked on the Tarlang, the ferry to Ebeye in 1967-68, does anyone remember it?
Rose says
Yes! Rode the Tarlang to Ebeye now and again, as well as taking it occasionally for special group outings. Great memories!
Jim Cole says
I did not ride the ferry, but I rented sailboats and moored off the island for a half a day and visited the island many times. 1967-1973. Jim
Bill Young says
I lived there as a young boy for a couple years in the 60’s and then a second 20year stint from ’71-’73. Absolutely the best years of my boyhood! I still have idyllic memories of the experience. So much has changed. I too would love to visit, we’ll see…
Anonymous says
Typo. That would be a 2 year stint NOT a 20 year stint.
I suppose that 0 really matters.
Mike says
This article nailed it. I lived and worked there and they described it perfectly..awesome memories
Anonymous says
I also lived there fished every day. I was recently going back until they informed me that the bachelor quarters are now shared living space . I was disappointed but know I need more privacy then that .Your room was the only place you can actually be by yourself .TV ,Skype with family ,read a book bq is about 400 square feet
Terry says
The BQ is still individual dorm-room style apartments. One person per room There are a few suites that have two rooms for couples.
Anonymous says
I have sleep apnea so sharing a room definitely wouldn’t work
USAF TG says
I am considering taking a USG job on Kwaj. However, i have a well controlled (by meds) seizure disorder. How do you get prescriptions refilled?
Terry says
You bring a large supply of your meds with you and there is a pharmacy in the hospital.
Marge McCarthy says
We arrived on Kwaj, sponsored by my BFF who is the nurse at the hospital. We got there on St Patrick’s Day 2012 and partied into the night. I love Guinness, but my friend didn’t. She went looking for a “real beer” only to discover that every single cooler was filled with Guinness. Irish car bombs were being had by many in the kitchen of the house we were in. We stay there for 2 weeks and had a wonderful time. Trip of a lifetime and if we were younger we would have gotten into that contractor world and maybe raise their children on Kwaj. Their schools are excellent with most of their children going on to graduate college, something like 95%. It’s not for everyone, but it is something unique and special. We got to see Roi-Namur, a small island that’s a major part of the Ronald Reagan Ballistic Missile Defense Test Site. They host several radar systems used for tracking her potential intrusion. We toured the island in a golf cart. Part way through the tour, the golf cart died. The Islanders contractors knew fresh meat was on island, and decided to mess with us, shutting down our golf cart. We ended up at the bar, it was empty at the time we arrived, but within 10 minutes there were 40 people coming to see who we were. Would love to go back again, but I doubt we will. Thank you for your story. Brought back great memories! By the way, if you get caught riding your bike while intoxicated and cause a problem you get kicked off the island. Same with waiting for the aircraft to land before you go across the landing strips. If you don’t stop off Island you go. And if you’re golfing, don’t think you can go fetch your ball if it goes into an area that’s not permitted. If you do, off Island you go!
Luis Figueiredo says
I know this was a few years ago but i’d be interested to speak with your BFF who is the nurse at the hospital. Im looking into picking up an assignment there as an ER/critical care nurse. I can’t find any reviews/stories on anyone’s experience there in the hospital.
Anonymous says
Why would you post mission related information here. Not everything you see, needs to be presented to the public.
J. Nelson says
I passed through there on a C-5 hop from Hickam to Kadena in 1990. Pretty cool place. I doubt it’s changed much. The cafeteria was indeed a good place to eat. I still have an old-fashioned porcelain coffee mug that I snuck out of there. A couple of coworkers recently spent a 2-year tour on the Kwaj and had a great time.
Anonymous says
Snuck? You mean stole
David Perry says
I lived there in there in 90’s Loved and hated it. I think I can never visit correct?
Erika says
Can you tell me more about that? I am considering a job position on the island.
Anonymous says
Take the job its fantastic to live there
I lived and worked there in 1985-1991. It was a blast. Ted Farris.
Gene Westphall says
I was stationed there in 1954-1955 . Served my time as a crew member of YOG 65 at the marina . Wasn’t the paradise your story tells at that time. Was still a primitive island where you could still find junk left over from ww 2. There was a EM club, a out door theater, a few barracks and a chow hall …And bomb testing …. Nothing that resembles your story. but it was interesting to see the changes made there .
Bob says
I worked on Kwaj from 75-77,everything was free. There were 3500 people on the island and it was serviced by Air Micronesia and later Continental. There were three military officers and their families on the island.
Life on the island was slow paced and comfortable. Sailing, fishing, diving and sports filled the days.
There was the Yukwei Yuk Club, which was a restaurant and bar and always enjoyable. The Snake Pit which was earlier and accurately described as a place where the patrons could neither walk nor speak because they were so drunk. It was lots of fun made some lifelong friendships and saved enough to travel around the world for nearly three years.
My memories are fond of the island and the people including all the Marshallese from
nearby Ebeye.
Michele says
Bob, do you remember a situation where a serviceman killed his wife in May of ’54? That was my mom.
Mike Golip says
Sorry to hear that there is only one bar left. When I was there, courtesy of the US Army, ’68-’69, there was a big bar called the Yokwe Yuk which was conveniently right across from the BOQ is was in (The Reef). For a while I ran the projector at the theater next to the Yokwe Yuk, and then I worked at the bowling alley. (Military Pay sucked even back then).
The Ocean View bar had a saltwater pool near it, and there were at least three beer vending machines (like Coke machines, try doing that now) next to the pool. Every morning there was a castle made of beer cans on the picnic table. (I think the only beer we got in cans was Olympia.)
Every day I flew to Meck, and there was even a little bar there, called the “Meck Wreck” (probably because of the shipwreck on the beach near there).
Great Times
bill sievers says
Was on Kwaj, the summers of 1967- and 1968, well remember the vending machines where for 25 cents, you got a cold OLY 🙂 would love to go back for a visit, I think I will try to connect with a Kwaj. resident for a sponsor.
Jim Cole says
I used to spend a lot of time at the Ocean Front putting quarters in Oly vending machines. We did a lot late night crabbing on the beaches. Jim 1967-1973
Gail Landis says
Lived there from 83-85. Husband worked for Kentron. Great place to live. Kids loved it. Like being at the beach 365 days a year. Schools were great. Small classes, excellent teachers. Eldest graduated from high school there. Loads of things to do. Wish we could turn back the clock.
SCOTT ANDRADE says
i was on Kwaj from 1965 to 1971, best time of my life as a kid. Wish i could go back and see Kwaj one more time. My dad was known by Cowboy John, he was construction supervisor. My mom worked at Macy’s. Just a Hi to all my friends I had back then.
Anonymous says
I graduated from Kwajalein High School in 1971. I enjoyed my time there, and think of it often.
Pat Hutchings Suddarth
bill sievers says
Was there summers of 67 and 68. Did anyone know my dad, Robert Sievers? did some softball umpire work. He was with global associates as a civil engineer.
Jim Cole says
Bill, I played fast pitch with Kentron Hawaii LTD, and I may have been called out many times by your Dad (Ha). But retention is not my forte at this stage. Jim 1967-1973
Ronnie Sumter says
I had a son there in 1969. I also played baseball and volleyball. My husband worked for Kentron. Lots of great memories. Carefree living!
Chris Murphy says
Just offered a position there with USAG, looking for any and all information. Will be bringing wife and daughter.
Gene Moore says
I just applied for a position there as well. I want to bring my wife and daughter as well. Let me know what you find out.
Gene
Jess says
My husband was considering a job there. It’s a 1 year contract. Would there be housing big enough to house our whole family? There’s my husband, me, and our 2 teenage sons. Would they house all of us? Do you know if it would be on Kwaj or Ebeye?
S. Robbins says
Houses are large enough for your family. It would be on Kwaj. Ebeye houses only the locals (Marshallese). I too, lived on Kwaj from 71-76. BEST time of my life. Definitely go there, you won’t regret it. You would wish you could stay longer…I guarantee it.
larry yannachione says
used to work there in the late 80s and early 90s. Is Norman (auntie) SABLAS still a fixture there? If so – a big HELLO from the past. During my time everyone was great, Banjo Kious and many more. The Marshallese made my stay easy and interesting. Many thanks to them.
Anonymous says
Auntie is now in Huntsville!
Sybil Mathews says
Would love to visit this beautiful place. But I don’t have a sponser as it required. So I’ll just keep looking at beautiful pics. ❤️
Ruchard H Behler says
In 1945-46,I was stationed on the Island of Kwaj ,I was attached to the Seabees ( CBMU 607) There was still a lot to clean up after the large Military battles in 1944. This is a very small Island and I was so proud to be stationed there, I was just a young boy at 17 and 18 years of age. I remember we had the best chow on the Island and members of the Army, Marines. And Naval Personal would have their meals there for the food we ,as Seabees , served there. I was quite a. Experience for me as a young man to have served there,I wish I t could have gone back to visit,I understand , it would be great place to live,,no crime there to worry aboutOn the day I left on July 1- 1946,the Island of Bikini, there, not far from Keajalein,the Nuclear supplies were stored there and of this date,the Iand is still unvisited. The is where the Bathing Suit Bikini , the ladies wear, I got its name, there was nothing left to show. I am 92 years of age,this time I will always remember my tour of duty there.
Doris glommen says
Hi, I am the 68 yr old daughter of Carl and Margaret Glommen who served there on Kwajalein. My Dad was an aircraft mechanic. My Mom was a WAC. My sister Carla was born on the island on May 30, 1949. I have lots and lots of pictures and slides from their time there and from their time in Honolulu…still in the military trunks. I also had my Mom make tapes of her experiences in her life…from childhood til they moved back to the states and raised children. If you ask the newspaper there, they will have record of an article/interview with my Mother some years ago.
Todd Kimmell says
My namesake (my middle name) was my Uncle Bernard Kimmell who was stationed in Kwaj.
Bernard, pronounced the Brit way, ‘burr’ nurd’, was just a kid. Of your acquaintance, by any chance?
Bernard D. Kimmell S1c (seaman 1st class)
Died on Guam (Mt. Tenjo) on 12 September 1945.
He was crew on a Douglas C54 Skymaster in the Naval Air Transport Service, flying from Samar in the Philippines. Pilot error or possible radio equipment failure causing the pilot to lose contact with the tower. All 7 on board died.
Todd Kimmell, Philadelphia
Dave Stern says
Hello Worldwide Wilbur,
Your article was very descriptive and tantalizing.
I Just finish the Audible version of “Unbroken” (read 2 times) and watched the movie.
At 59 single and financially set after 40 years of being self employed, this sounds just like a place for me to relax and get away from everything.
By any chance, is there a resource of available sponsors to contact?
Thank you,
Dave Stern
Las Vegas, NV USA
SAB says
My father was a civilian with a government contractor that worked there during the 50’s and 60’s. I don’t remember much about it. I was very young. He was only able to come home for 30 days every 18 months. I always wanted to visit him but it wasn’t allowed.
Enjoyed reading the above articles. They gave me some insight on what his job was about.
Anonymous says
Lived here for 2 and a half years when my dad was in the US Navy in the 60’s. No car, No TV But had a great time. wish I could go back and visit.
Chris says
For your information the high ranking military aren’t the only ones to get houses. There are contractors to get housing too it’s by position of their job. Also the military doesn’t make that much money as a contractor over there. We don’t qualify for the free no tax like the contractors.
Anonymous says
My ex son-in-law wants to take my 7 yr old Granddaughter there for the summer. I’m afraid she will be traumatized leaving her Mother, as well as extended family and not having many extra-curricular activities. She is very active in dance lessons, church youth groups, summer trips, etc. She has never been in day care as he plans to have strangers keep her while he works. There doesn’t appear to be many activities for young children. I’m also wondering about the health care ???
Worldwide Wilbur says
Hi there,
While I can’t speak to your granddaughter’s particular needs, I find that kids are surprisingly resilient with new things. If she enjoys the beach, swimming, playing outside in nice weather, she might like Kwaj. There are plenty of kids on Kwaj, so she will make friends. The health care is limited, but adequate for all but serious traumatic injuries.
Thanks for reading!
Sam
Anonymous says
Had a chance to take a job there after I got out of the Navy in 63. Sometimes I wished I had of.
JD says
Thank you! Excellent writing!
Neil says
My fathers ship was used after the war for atomic testing.. it was the USS Pennsylvania after the testing it sit in the lagoon there for quite a while people did research on it and it was later towed to sea and sank. I’ve often thought about this place.
Bailey says
Kwaj is really great. I’ve lived here for almost 8 months now. Love every day here more and more.
Steven Fogle says
Hey Bailey – glad you’re enjoying the island. On the slim chance you’d like to sponsor a former Kwaj-kid, please let me know. I would love to come back and spend a couple days there but obviously need to be sponsored. I lived there in the 60’s during the Nike-Zeus program. My dad ran radars over on Roi and we lived in one of the concrete houses on the island. I went to George Seitz School there for K, 1 and 2. I would love to be able to see the place again as an adult and bring my wife so she could see what it is I talk about so much. Let me know if you’d consider. Thanks!
David Curry says
Steven, tell your brother Brian that David Curry said Hello. I was there on the island when you all were there. I still have the YearBooks from 62 and 63 . I also have a picture from the Little League team we played on. Also I have a copy of the Hour Glass Newspaper that we used to deliver to all the houses. I would love to figure out how I could get back and show the items that I kept from back then!!
Todd Maddox says
I went to 4th and 5th grade at George Seitz school from 1963-1965. Nike Zeus project was going full blast . Often the signal horn would blow and everyone had to go to the nearest bomb shelter .You would feel the island shake and soon after they would blow the all clear and you could return home .My dad was the marine supervisor and he assigned the boats for week ends . They were free and so were the taxis and buses that went all over the island .Things change !
Gloria says
I was there at the same time and in 4th and 5th grade! We must have been in the same class.
Dave Curry says
Todd, My name is Dave Curry, I have a picture from the island when we played baseball, I think we were on the same team, the Cardinals!!!
Kevin Creeden says
Great article, I have always wanted to go. Doubt I will. I can dream!
Uncle Les says
The fishing is great! Wahoo, Yellowfin Tuna, Skipjack Tuna, Rainbow Runner, Dog Tooth Tuna, Mahimahi, Marlin and Sailfish can all be caught with ten minutes of leaving the small boat marina. See the folks at the fishing club, or check with Rick at the small boat marina and he can hook you up with some fisher men/women. The trip will cost you from $35 to $50. All anglers who have been there a while will have all the equipment needed. You will be welcome muscle in the boat when all lines have fish on! If you are going to be there for a while, it is expected that you have your own gear. Right lines, and Hanapa’a!
Worldwide Wilbur says
Thanks Uncle Les!
bill sievers says
In 1967-1968, all you had to do was reserve a boat, no charge, just bring your own refreshments. remember a trip where the diver brought up a huge killer clam, was great to eat some with sea water:)Has anyone ever gone to Ebeye and exchanged ice col OLY for some hot beer that the fishermen had, just to keep up good relations with the Marshallese? And then go buy fabric and have the women make you a shirt? Great memories
Joe Laughlin says
I’m a disabled vet, any discounts for us?
Anonymous says
My son is sooo smart. I enjoyed reading this. You are really good at this. Love you
Jamescamp says
Helloo
Jim Camp here.
1985-87 employed at Kwaj as plumber.
What a good life it was. Played golf every week day after work.
People were good to each other. Never saw any arguing or such.
That time in my life will never be forgotten.
Bless all of you.