“The 12 Best Things to Do in Palau” will get in the water, diving with sharks, snorkeling with jellyfish, and kayaking to desert island beaches. It explains everything you need to know about visiting the “Pristine Paradise of Palau” — where to stay, what to see, what to eat, and more.
Children of Palau,
I take this Pledge,
To preserve and protect your beautiful and unique island home.
I vow to tread lightly, act kindly, and explore mindfully.
I shall not take what is not given.
I shall not harm what does not harm me.
The only footprints I shall leave are those that will wash away.
As soon as you land in the Palau Islands, you know you have arrived somewhere a little bit different. At customs and immigration, you don’t get just any old passport stamp. You get the above Palau Pledge stamped in your passport, and you must read it and sign it. The Palau people take environmental protection seriously. As well they should, since a massive portion of the country’s income is from tourists there to experience the crystal clear underwater scenery.
Why go to Palau?
Palau is an absolutely gorgeous, tiny country of just 18,000 people. Only Vatican City, Tuvalu, and Nauru are smaller. Spend a year here, and you’d know everyone. The Palau island nation consists of one decent-sized island named Babeldaob, a couple smaller islands, and another 340 tiny specks of limestone rock capped by green jungle. These “Rock Islands” look like something out of a James Bond movie, as your speedboat traverses crystal blue ocean, between steep island cliffs and jungle.
Where is Palau?
Palau sits in the North Pacific, 600 miles east of the Philippines, 600 miles north of West Papua Indonesia, and 800 miles southwest of Guam. In other words, it ain’t close to anywhere. It gets tourism from sorta nearby Taiwan, and guest workers from almost close by Philippines. But, most tourists coming here are SCUBA divers from far away Europe or the Americas.
Palau has maintained its beauty by restricting the over-development that is so common in other developing countries. For starters, most businesses can only operate if they have a Palauan citizen owning at least 51%. No foreigner can buy land in Palau. They can only lease. So the Palauan people have stayed invested in the future of their island. They haven’t been bought out early like in Hawaii, Tahiti, Fiji.
Bye-Bye China
In fact, Palau is so committed to preventing over-development, it took on the regional 800 pound gorilla in the room, China. By 2015, Palau tourism was completely dominated by Chinese arrivals, and the infrastructure could barely keep up. There were many reports of Chinese visitors taking shells, destroying reefs, disregarding environmental rules. The Palauan government sought to put limits on Chinese group tours. China responded by banning ALL its tour companies from sending trips to Palau. This has deeply hurt the Palau economy, of which fully 50% is tourism. But, Palau stands its ground, and wishes to continue to offer the world a pristine paradise, rather than become another Cambodia, completely overrun with casinos and Chinese restaurants.
The 12 Best Things to do in Palau:
#1 In Palau SCUBA Diving is World Class.
The diving in Palau is AMAZING. The Blue Corner Wall is perennially ranked among the top 5 dive sites on Earth. Other famous dives are Ulong Channel, and Peleliu Express. If you aren’t dive certified, you really ought to consider it before you go to Palau. It’s what everyone you meet will be spending their day doing. I saw manta rays, blacktip sharks, Napoleon Wrasse, a leopard shark, and so many colorful small fish. Palau diving is NOT cheap. Book ahead, especially if you have specific sites you want to dive on. Be sure to get Nitrox certified. I was strongly encouraged to get the certification on the spot, to increase my available bottom time. You’ll need to have the Rock Islands Permit which costs $50. Your dive shop will sell it.
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- I dove with Sam’s Tours, who were a top class organization. Two tank dives ($160), including renting gear ($35), cost $195 a day.
- Fish N Fins Palau has similar prices and excellent reviews. Also has a liveaboard boat; the Ocean Hunter III.
- Neco Marine has two tank dives for $160, plus equipment rental.
- Palau Dive Adventures does week-long dive packages starting at $1150.
#2 Do a kayak/snorkel tour of the Rock Islands.
I spent a day doing a kayak tour with Sam’s Tours for $130, and it was magical. We zipped to the rock islands in a speedboat, then unloaded the kayaks into the water. Paddling silently through steep limestone cliffs, we watched birds, bats, and jellyfish pass by. We jumped in to snorkel in a protected lagoon rich in ocean life. The last adventure of the day was getting dropped into a very fast-moving current where we could snorkel over the reef like we had jets on our backs. So much fun! You’ll need to have the Rock Islands Permit which costs $50. This permit is good for ten days, so you only need to buy it once for ten days worth of tours.
#3 Snorkel with Stingless Jellyfish in “Jellyfish Lake”.
Here you can swim and snorkel in a saltwater pool that is fully enclosed from the ocean, and filled with stingless jellyfish. This just re-opened to tourists after a weather event that killed off most of the jellyfish in 2018. So I missed out on this one, but it is a top draw of any trip to the Palau Islands for most people. You’ll need to have the Rock Islands / Jellyfish Lake permit, which costs $100. If you know you are going to Jellyfish Lake, just buy this $100 permit, not the basic $50 Rock Islands Permit.
#4 Get Wet at Ngardmau Falls.
These tall and wide waterfalls can be reached by a 30min drive, and then a steep 30 minute hike down a trail. You can splash around at the base, and even walk behind the falls. The entry fee is now up to $20, so you need to be a really big waterfall fan.
#5 Learn about Palauan Culture at the Etpison Museum
Learn about the Palau Islands history and culture. Open 9-5 Monday – Saturday. $10 entry for adults , free for children under 12.
#6 Take a boat trip to Peleliu Island for some WWII history.
Tanks and bunkers abound where one of the bloodiest battles of the Pacific was fought. You can get there in just over an hour by speedboat from Koror. There is a $30 permit fee to go on the island.
#7 Swim in the Milky Way lagoon.
Underneath the turquoise water lies a white mud that is said to provide excellent skin care. You can scoop it up from the bottom and smear it all over yourself. You need the Rock Island Permit.
#8 Explore the Belau National Museum.
It has some Yap giant stone money. Adults $10, Children $5. Open Monday to Saturday 9-5. Sunday 1-5.
#9 Visit the Airai Bai
It’s a big traditional men’s meeting house, and nearby is a Japanese communications building. Entry is $5.
#10 For Flipper fans, try Dolphins Pacific
See a trained dolphin encounter where you can swim with them for $30.
#11 See the Badrulchau Stone Monoliths
37 giant stone columns with carvings sit in a field. They date back 2000 years, and no one knows their significance. $5 entry.
#12 Get a massage
There are a couple of locations on the main street downtown for $25.
12 Best Things to do in Palau: Know Before You Go:
Backpacker Daily Budget:
$110 a day. Palau is NOT a budget destination. With the only hostel charging $40 for a dorm bed(!!), and cheap street food hard to find, money burns fast in Palau. Palau seems to be actively discouraging backpackers with numerous government fees for everything imaginable, nearly no hostels, no campsites, and no bicycle rental.
Palau Travel Tips: The government fees are especially onerous.
For example, if one wants to come to the Palau just to swim in Jellyfish Lake, they must pay:
- The $100 “Palau Pristine Paradise Environment Fee” which will be included in your airline ticket fare.
- The $50 Palau National Marine Sanctuary Permit.
- The $50 Jellyfish Lake permit.
- A $20 departure tax upon leaving the airport.
- A $30 “green fee” upon leaving the airport.
That’s $250 in government fees, and we haven’t even discussed the cost of the boat tour to Jellyfish Lake, or your accommodations and food!
Cheap Beer index:
$4 for a Red Rooster draft pint in a bar or restaurant. Red Rooster is the national beer of Palau and comes in four different versions; Amber, Light, Wheat and Stout. Each is excellent. This was a real treat after a week stuck with Bud Lite or Steinlager in Micronesia.
Best Time to visit Palau:
At 7 degrees above the equator, the temperature practically never changes on Palau. Highs are 86-88, lows 78-79, every day, year round. There is a rainy season, peaking in June and July at 13-14 inches a month. March and April are the driest months, with 6 inches of rain monthly. January through April would be the best times to come, but really your Palau vacation can be enjoyable any time of year.
What languages are spoken?
Palauan and English are both official languages. There are many Filipino and Chinese workers on Palau, so you’ll hear Mandarin and Tagalog as well.
Do you need a Palau visa?
Visas are not required for USA, UK, CAN and AUS. US citizens are issued a free one year visa on arrival. UK, AUS and CAN citizens are issued a free 30 day tourist visa upon arrival. This may be extended twice for a fee of US$50 for each extension for a maximum stay of 90 days.
Palau charges a $100 “Palau Pristine Paradise Environment Fee” to all foreigners who enter the country. This should be included in your airline ticket fare.
How to get to Palau:
Palau is much easier to get to from Asia than from the USA. The only international Palau airport is Koror (ROR).
Flights to Palau arrive from:
- Seoul on Asiana and Korean Air
- Taipei on China Airlines
- Macau on Lanmei Airlines
- Sihanoukville-Cambodia on Lanmei Airlines
- Guam on United
- Manila on United
The Chinese government has effectively banned all flights here from mainland China.
No cruise ships stop here.
Upon arrival in the airport: taxis are available; $20-30 for the 20 minute ride into town. Best to arrange pickup from your lodging.
If you are coming from the USA or Canada, you should book your flight using United Mileage Plus Miles. While the cheapest round trip fare from Honolulu to Palau is an eye watering $1480, you can book it for just 55,000 United miles, which have a calculated value of only $825. I booked a multi-city flight from Maui via Honolulu with three stops in Kwajalein, Pohnpei, and Palau and then back to Maui using just 67,500 United Mileage Plus miles. If you are booking an island hopping trip, you can choose to stop in any or all of the four Micronesian islands, the two Marshallese islands, and Guam and Palau. To learn the most efficient way to accumulate United Miles, and how to get to Palau, please check out my page Nine Steps to Free Flights Worldwide.
You are required to pay a $20 departure tax plus a $30 green fee ($50 total) per person when you leave NOTE – This may be included in your airline fare as well now.
Getting around Palau:
- The only way to get to Koror town from the airport is a $30 taxi.
- There is no public transport.
- Koror has relatively cheap taxis, a 1-2 mile ride is only $2 to $4, but they are very few, and hard to find. They don’t have a light on the roof to identify them at night, and they don’t drive around looking for a fare, but rather park in spots you may not know about. You can call one by phone, but of course only if you have a local SIM. I ended up walking a mile back to my apartment after dinner a couple of times when I couldn’t find a taxi.
- Car rental would be the cheapest way to see Babeldaob island. IA Car Rental has the best rates, but somehow hasn’t figured out the internet yet. You may have to call them to arrange a car.
Palau currency:
U.S. Dollars are the official Palau currency, and are available at many ATMs. For more info on your cash-versus-credit card options when travelling, check out my post on How to Access your Money in Foreign Countries.
Stay Connected:
Palau has only one mobile operator:
- PNCC with its mobile brand PalauCel and internet provider PalauNet
SIM cards are sold only at PNCC offices in Koror (across the post office) Mon-Fri 8am-4:30pm. A SIM costs $25 and includes $10 worth of airtime. Refill cards called GSM mobile airtime cards are available there and at more than 100 local stores. These data packages are available :
| Data | Validity | Price |
|---|---|---|
| 500 MB | 2 days | US$ 2 |
| 2 GB | 8 days | US$ 8 |
| 4 GB | 15 days | US$ 15 |
| 8 GB | 30 days | US$ 25 |
Many foreign phones set up for global roaming won’t work in Palau, because PNCC doesn’t have roaming agreements with many foreign operators. The mobile network on the islands is supplemented by public WiFi hotspots operated by the two internet providers PNCC/PalauNet and Palau Telecoms. They both sell prepaid airtime for their WiFi hotspot access.
For more info on your telecom options, check out my post on How to Get Cheap Mobile Phone Service Worldwide.
Palau Accommodations:
Palau does not have any budget accommodations as you would find in nearby Philippines or Taiwan. Expect to be underwhelmed by the value of Palau hotels wherever you are staying. (Warning: Read the fine print on booking sites. Many rates don’t include the 12% tax AND the $12 city tax per person per night)
- Camping is possible. There is no organized campsite, but you could convince your dive boat to leave you on one of the rock island beaches for the night, and pick you up the next day. It’s legal.
- Palau 8090 Dream House has dorm beds for $40, and is the cheapest option on the whole island. It is within walking distance of downtown.
- I stayed at Skyway Apartments in Malakal for $71 a night on AirBnB. It was a good value, and great location for diving.
- DW Motel has rooms for $82 a night. It is located right in downtown.
- Ocean Star Hotel has rooms for $126. It is right on the ocean, with beautiful views and free breakfast.
Palau Food:
Dining out is one thing that won’t break your budget.
- try the Bento Boxes in convenience stores. These are a cheap $3-5 meal.
- Taj has decent Indian food at kinda high prices.
- Drop Off Bar & Grill at the Palau Royal Resort has great pizza
Koror has some decent bars for such a small town. There are a couple of “dive bars” where people start out the night. And by dive bars, I mean bars located directly in the SCUBA dive centers. Folks finish their last dive of the day and saddle up to replace the nitrogen in their blood with alcohol. After that, they may move on to the bar located at their resort. The rowdiest are the final stops, the downtown bars where locals and tourists come together. One important note: Palau does not seem to have banned smoking in bars and restaurants yet, unlike the rest of the planet. In several locations I had to just walk out due to disgusting amounts of smoke.
- Bottom Time Bar & Grill is the bar in the Sam’s Tours Dive Center. They have Red Rooster on tap, wine, mixed drinks, and serve food. It has a great sunset view. I enjoyed this spot after each dive. Located on Malakal island
- Drop Off Bar & Grill is located at the swanky Palau Royal Resort and is one of the classier bars on island. I had a good pizza and ran into some Palauan government bigwigs here. Smoking allowed. Located on Malakal island.
- Night Market – Every other Friday there is a big night market in the center of town with food, dance performances, trinkets for sale. Its well worth visiting. Watch out, the traditional dancers might pull you up on stage to dance!
- Canoe House is a restaurant and bar that might be THE nightlife spot of Koror. They have live music on weekends. The night I went, the US Navy was ashore and had turned it into a frat party. Located in the center of downtown.
My experience:
After several days in the Marshall Islands and Micronesia, arriving in Palau was like jumping forward fifty years. Perfectly paved roads, clean streets, neon lights for restaurants and bars, and even a shopping mall. The infrastructure looks asian, but the views are 100% stunning pacific islander. The Rock Islands of Palau are steep limestone towers covered in thick foliage. They stretch for a hundred miles to the south of the main island of Babeldoab. The chain starts around the capital town of Koror, so as you drive through there are big rocks and jungle dotting both sides of you as you cross bridges and drive near the shore.
Koror is a pleasant town with everything a tourist might need. Over fifty restaurants to choose from, a dozen bars, several massage spas, a shopping mall. You can walk the length of it in 15 min. I stayed on Malakal island, which is just south of Koror town, and connected by a bridge. All the dive shops operate from Malakal, and my AirBnB apartment is literally across the street from Sam’s Tours. Each morning I could walk 3 minutes to be on the dive boat. While this was convenient, i wish i had chosen to stay in the center of Koror. All the dive shops will pick you up and drop you back off for free, so it is not necessary to be close to them. But each night when I wanted to go into town for dinner, I had to track down a taxi, or walk a mile. I recommend staying right in Koror town, maybe a block or two off the main street.
If you are a diver, Palau is paradise. You can dive somewhere new for days on end. If you don’t dive or at least snorkel or kayak, it might be a little boring. There are no easily accessible beaches from Koror town, so don’t be picturing Hawaii or Tahiti style beach resorts. If you are satisfied with hanging by the pool, then there are plenty of resort hotels with nice pools, and good restaurants. All in all, Palau is a first world, underwater paradise, with world-class tourism infrastructure, and a real commitment to protecting its environment.
Get a Palau Islands guidebook:
There are a couple kinda-out-of-date guidebooks on Palau:
There are several excellent books on diving and marine life in Palau:
What to Pack:
Shorts, flip-flops, and a t-shirt is the uniform. Bring swimsuits, snorkel, a hat, reef-safe sunscreen, a water-shirt to wear while snorkeling, sunglasses. To learn how to pack light and be prepared for anything, check out my post The Worldwide Travel Packing List.
Is Palau safe?
Palau has very low crime, and you should feel very safe while on land. Koror enforces a curfew between 2:30 a.m. and 5:00 a.m., Monday through Thursday, and between 4:00 a.m. and 6:00 a.m. Friday to Sunday, and on national holidays. You should plan on not walking around after 2:30am, though I can’t imagine why you would anyway as not a single thing is open after midnight. It is illegal to walk around in public with alcohol. Homosexuality is technically illegal though unlikely to be enforced.
There is still unexploded ordnance left over from World War II. Don’t go picking up rusty metal either on land OR underwater!
Bull sharks are common, but have not attacked divers in recent memory.
There are saltwater crocodiles, and no warning signs to indicate their presence. Reconsider going alone to explore the shoreline off the beaten path.
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