Bali travel guide

“Things to Do in Ubud Bali” will take you to a magical, fairy tale Asia, where people still wear colorful sarongs, where the sweet smell of incense wafts by on every corner, where intricate carvings of stone adorn every house, where the sounds of gamelan music echo from every temple.  I’ll explain everything you need to know about visiting magical Bali — where to stay, what to see, what to eat, and more.

What are some things to do in Ubud Bali?

Shake off that jet lag by starting your day with an early visit to one of the best sunrise photo spots of Bali

Take a Yoga Class.  There are dozens available in Ubud.

Watch a traditional Kecak Dance performance and experience one of the most vibrant traditional cultures in Asia with beautiful music, dress, and incense.  One takes place each Monday at 7 pm at the temple in Junjungan village on Jalan Tirta Tawar. Tickets cost 75,000 IDR ($5.50).  Certainly one of the best things to do in Bali.

Hike the Campuhan Ridge Walk through gorgeous rice fields full of quacking ducks, with the distant sound of gamelan bells.

Explore the Sacred Monkey Forest, but NO TOUCH MONKEY!  Put this at the top of your Ubud itinerary.

Find inner peace sitting by the lotus pond at Saraswati Temple

Get a massage.  There are tiny shops all over town offering one-hour quality massages for just 100,000IDR ($6.86)!

Hire a driver for a half-day tour to 11th century Pura Gunung Kawi temple, Tirta Empul “Water Temple”, and the Tegenungan Waterfall.

Be a “swinger” on one of the epic Bali Swings!

Spend a day on Downhill Cycling Tour of Bali.

Our Experience:

We arrived at Ngurh Rai Denpasar Airport late in the evening. Customs was remarkably quick. We checked inside our bags before customs, so as not to befall the fate of Australian “Ganja Queen” Schappele Corby. At this airport, young miss Corby was caught with nine pounds of weed in her boogie board bag. She claims it was a set-up, but the Indonesian jury felt otherwise, and she sat in Denpasar prison, right down the road, for nine years.

Outside, our driver was waiting. It’s always so nice to see a smiling face with your name printed on a sign, waiting for you in a foreign airport. I might start paying people to show up and meet me with a sign at every airport.

Mr. Congtit drove us past weaving motorbikes through the blackness of the unlit roads to Ubud. We arrived at the Saren Indah hotel to find an oasis of tranquility. Our smiling hostess greeted us with a cold fruity drink as we sat on ornate mahogany chairs by the lighted pool. Our spotlessly clean room was surrounded by rice paddies populated by an orchestra of croaking frogs by night, and a gaggle of honking ducks by day. No noise from the road or town could be heard except the distant clanging of gamelan at a dance performance.

We woke early to the ducks, and went for a run through Ubud. The Saren Indah borders the Sacred Monkey Forest on one side, and a calm road heading south with tall bamboo flags arching over, and the smoke of incense offerings filling the air. We said hello to a couple of monkeys before setting off on our run.

Mopeds everywhere

We were simultaneously awed by the numerous beautiful stone carvings, temples, incense offerings, and colorfully saronged Balinese; and dismayed by the hundreds of mopeds weaving between diesel-belching trucks on narrow winding roads with no shoulders and few sidewalks. We did not see another runner during our time in Ubud, and judging by the reactions we got, the Balinese don’t see runners often either. Occasionally we were lucky enough to stumble upon a quiet road through a small village. Many undernourished street dogs would bark at us threateningly, though never charging at us. Children would either stare, or practice their English shouting “Hello! Hello! Hello! Good Day!”. Chickens ran out from under our feet, as we passed old farmers carrying a scythe in one hand and a bundle of rice in the other.

Moped after moped whizzed by. Some carried entire families of four; Dad driving with junior at his feet, Mom riding side-saddle on the backseat, holding the baby. Other carried goods to market, huge racks of live chickens, bundles of clothes, long shafts of bamboo. Mopeds outnumber cars twenty to one. The method of driving here is to overtake at any time you can reasonably expect not to be killed by oncoming traffic. It is perfectly acceptable for your car to straddle the centerline, forcing the oncoming moped to squeeze into a three-foot wide gap between your vehicle and a stone wall while traveling at 30mph. Miraculously we saw no accidents.

We had great, cheap meals every night in Ubud. We had much sushi and Bintang at this Japanese restaurant for less than twenty bucks.  After dinner, we purchased tickets to a Barong dance performance from some kids. It was a fabulous performance for only $8. The sound of the Gamelan combined with the dancers eerie hand and eye movements is hypnotic. We got front row seats. Unfortunately for the performers, a show that brought in 200 before the 2002 Bali Bombings, now brings in 25.

They even let tourists on stage for pictures after the show. This performance is at the temple the abuts the soccer field in the center of Ubud. During our time in Indonesia we saw the Kecak-Fire Dance and the Ramayana Ballet at Prambanan, but this show was our favorite by far.

Several troops of kids parade through Ubud in costume playing drums and cymbals with a Barong monster. They ask for tips. Thirty cents is considered a good tip.

Today we hired Congtit to chauffeur us around Bali for the day. For $55 we got a nine hour tour of central and eastern Bali.  This excellent Bali Travel Blog describes the differences between the different sections of the island.

I had originally planned a drive through famous Kuta beach, but Congtit convinced us that we would not enjoy the choking traffic of that area. Instead he showed us some stunning scenery of upcountry Bali. We drove uphill past terraced rice paddies, and through countless villages, each specializing in one particular artwork. On village wood carved the Garuda, the national symbol of Indonesia which is Vishnu riding an eagle. Another village did stone tile work. Another did nothing but roofs for temples. Congtit is a stone and woodcarver himself, having learned it from his father and grandfather.

Soon we reached Gunung Kawi, a Hindu temple built in the 11th century consisting of temples carved into a high rock wall. We had to wear sarongs to enter the temple, so we “rented” them for 30 cents each. The entrance fee was eighty cents. It was quiet and peaceful.

Tirta Empul

Next we came to the water temple Tirta Empul. Built around a sacred spring, an inscription dates the spring all the way back to 926AD; and there are fine carvings and Garudas on the courtyard buildings. The temple and its two bathing spots have been used by the Balinese for over a thousand years for good health and prosperity. Regular purification ceremonies also take place here. Congtit said that it cleared your mind of bad thoughts. I splashed some on my face, and cleaned out all my bad thoughts, at least for a few minutes. Lots of kids and adults splashed about in the water.

Kopi Luwak

Visiting a coffee plantation is a must do in Ubud. You may have heard a rumor of a rare coffee that was collected from the droppings of a wild animal. It exists, and it is sold here as Kopi Luwak Coffee. A small jar of ground beans sells for $30! So what exactly is it? The Indonesian word “kopi” translates directly to coffee. The word Luwak refers to a small wild animal native to Indonesia and Vietnam that is actually a cousin of the mongoose.

The luwak or civet is particularly fond of perfectly ripe coffee cherries. Thanks to coffee farmers, the luwak has no troubles finding plenty of coffee.  Once eaten, the coffee cherries take the normal route through the animal’s digestive path. The amazing thing is while the fruit of the coffee is being digested, the bean is left largely unchanged, eventually passing in the animals droppings.  The droppings and their caffeine-laden content are collected by farmers. The coffee is then cleaned and the green, un-roasted bean shipped to roasters.  Then your coffee is scraped off the bottom of this guy’s cage. We bought some regular old Bali Coffee, but not Civet coffee or Kopi Luwak.

Ganung Batur

Next it was up, up, up to a great view of Ganung Batur while we had lunch in the town of Kintamani. Then back down through more beautiful villages till we reached the “Mother Temple of Bali”. Over a thousand years old, Besakih Temple is perched on the slopes of Mount Agung, at a lofty 3,000 feet. Besakih is the biggest and holiest of all the Balinese temples. It is also a horrendous scam and a blight on the beauty of Bali. Really. We had a most unfortunate experience here. Despite paying the official entry fee of $1.37, at the foot of the temple road we were stopped by a semi-official looking mob of boys who told us we had to pay for $11 EACH for a personal guide or we could not go in the temple.

Bali is very cheap

A word now on prices in Indonesia. It is incredibly cheap. An excellent dinner for two in a western style restaurant can be had for under $10. An hour-long massage by a trained therapist costs $7.  A ticket for a 90 minute, professional Balinese dance performance is $8. A 24 oz bottle of Bintang is $2. So while $11 may seem like an insignificant amount, in Bali to demand this for a 20 minute tour by a boy who speaks broken English is completely outrageous. As such I declined, and continued walking up the hill to the temple. While people in Bali will try to sell you stuff everywhere you go, if you just smile and say “No thank you”, they will leave you alone. This was not the case at the “Mother Temple”. These hoodlums followed us via moped and tried to stop us again at each successive gate leading up to the main temple. They would not take no for an answer and were becoming intimidating about it. They would stand in front of us and tell us we could not go any further, despite the fact that we had tickets. I finally lost my cool, and had a verbal confrontation with the most sour faced punk in their little mafia.

Skip Besakih Temple

Of course, this is simply not done in Asia. One does not show anger or speak confrontationally. But I had boiled over. I had dealt just fine with having to pay 50 cents for parking, 20 cents to use a public bathroom, 30 cents to borrow a sarong required to enter a temple, these little fees you are made to pay purely because you are a foreigner and the people see you as a walking ATM. I don’t mind paying for the necessary services I receive as a guest in another culture. But I cannot stand being lied to and extorted, even for eleven bucks. The glowering boy followed us every step towards the temple. We met another couple staying at Saren Indah who were also confused as to why they had to pay these kids. Finally we had enough. Before we even got to the temple, we turned back to the car. The normal happiness and tranquility of Bali had been ruined by this greedy little mob. We could not extract any joy from the Mother Temple. We took no pictures. Hopefully the Indonesian government will break up this scam someday soon. Until then, DO NOT GO TO BESAKIH TEMPLE. Tony Wheeler, please update Lonely Planet with this message. Your current edition mentions “aggressive touts”, but it’s a lot worse than that.

Congtit felt bad about our bad experience, and wanted to end our trip on a good note. He drove us downhill to the beach, where I was able to jump in and swim in the Indian Ocean!  I hadn’t even realized that Bali’s southern coast was on the Indian Ocean until I checked the map right before we got to the beach. I would have really kicked myself if I had missed out on my first chance to swim in a new ocean.

Things you Need to Know about Ubud Bali:

Backpacker Daily Budget:

$25.   $4 hostel beds, $3 meals, $2 beers, Ubud is a backpacker paradise.

Cheap Beer index:

25,000INR $1.73 for a 12oz bottle of Bintang in a bar or restaurant.  The big 650ml bottles are more popular, and cheaper by volume at 35,000 or $2.42

When to visit Ubud: 

Ubud is hot and humid all year round, with no noticeable change in temperature.  Highs range from 84 to 88.  There is a change in rain, humidity and clouds from season to season.  While still very humid by any standard, the drier season is mid-April to mid- November.  The best time to visit is mid-June to mid-September.  Mid-August is the driest time of the year with the best chance at blue sky.

What languages are spoken in Bali?  

Everyone speaks Bahasa Indonesia, and people raised on Bali also speak Balinese.  English and Chinese are commonly spoken by people in the tourism industry.

Do you need an Indonesian visa? 

Visas are not required for nationals of USA, UK, AUS, and CAN who can stay for tourism up to 30 days.  Your passport must be valid for 6 months from arrival, and you must have an onward flight booking.  If you want to stay longer then 30 days, you’ll need to purchase a $35 Visa On Arrival.  The 30-days-visa-free is not renewable.  The $35 Visa On Arrival IS extendable for another 30 days at the Immigration Office in Denpasar city.

Getting to Bali: 

The most common way to arrive in Bali is via Denpasar Ngurah Rai International Airport (DPS).  Learn how to fly to Bali for free on my page:  Nine Steps to Free Flights Worldwide.

From the airport:  A taxi to Ubud should cost about 300,000INR ($21).  Nearly every hotel and hostel is willing to arrange for someone to pick you up for a pre-set fare (that may or may not be cheaper than a taxi).  Regardless, that pre-arranged driver WILL know how to find your guesthouse, and you won’t have to deal with any haggling or getting lost.

By Boat:   You can arrive in Bali by ferry from Java island.  Ferries cross from Ketapang to Gilimanuk in western Bali every 15 min, 24 hr every day. These are very cheap, and the crossing takes just 30 min.  You can also arrive by ferry from Nusa Lembongan, Gili Islands and Lombok.

Getting Around Bali:

By Bus: Perama Bus Trans Sarbagita, and Kura Kura bus serve tourist destinations.  Check their websites, and buy tickets a day in advance.

By Taxi:  Taxi drivers form “mafias” where they collude to keep prices high.  In outlying areas, you’ll be quoted the same high price by all drivers.  Make sure the meter is on, or negotiate before getting in.  Use only the Blue Bird taxis if possible.  They are honest, and usually speak some English.

Uber/Grab:  Bali has both Uber and Grab; app based taxi services.  Unfortunately, Uber/Grab drivers in Bali will try to haggle for more money than what Uber says it will charge you. They will either do this by saying they will not pick you up or they will haggle once you are already in the vehicle.  Be prepared to be pissed off.  Uber/Grab may not be available from the airport as the “taxi mafias” force them out.

Renting a scooter:  You can rent a scooter for $4-$10 a day, or even as little as $40 a month for long stays.  Before you rent one, be sure to read up on the best rates, license requirements, possible fines, insurance needs, and scams to avoid!  You’ll need an International Driving Permit, with a motorcycle endorsement.  The rental guy won’t ask for this, but the police will when they stop you.  Helmets are mandatory.  Headlights and tail-lights must be on at all times.  Bali has thick traffic, narrow roads, and is no place to learn to ride a scooter.  Also, avoid individuals offering to rent you their personal scooter.  The owner may use a spare key to steal back his own motorbike. You’ll then have to pay for it. Others may blame you for existing scratches or damage and demand that you pay for repairs.

Renting a car:  You can rent a clunker car for as little as $10 a day, but generally for more like $20-25.  Again, you must have an International Driving Permit.  You are less likely to be killed in a car, but quite likely you’ll smack something, a tree, or a pig, or a scooter driver….

Hiring a car and driver:  This is by far the safest and the most economical choice for a day tour around the island.  Just have your hotel/hostel arrange their favorite cousin to drive you.  A full 10 hour day could cost $30-$60.

Indonesian Currency and how to get it: 

You can get Indonesian Rupiah (14,583 IDR = $1USD) from numerous ATM’s.  Trust only money changers that have been recognized by Bank Indonesia; these establishments advertise their status as Pedagang Valuta Asing Berizin or PVA Berizin (Indonesian for “Authorized Money Changer”) with a green PVA Berizin shield where it can be seen by customers.   For more info on your cash-versus-credit card options when travelling, check out my post on How to Access your Money in Foreign Countries.

Stay Connected:  

Indonesia has six GSM network operators.  Foreigners need to go to an offical store of the provider and show their passport to get registered.  You can buy a SIM card on the street,  however, if your SIM has been suddenly shut off for any reason, you can only re-activate it (and not lose the preloaded credit) by officially registering this SIM in a store of the provider.  To be safe, you should skip this gamble and go there rightaway for SIM purchase.

Stay away from their Bali airport kiosks. They will only sell you huge packages with a steep surcharge.   In Ubud, you can get a SIM much cheaper, though tourists will aways pay a small surcharge and prices for start-up packages.  All of these providers will work well in Bali.  But, ff you are also travelling to other smaller, less populated islands, you should only consider Telkomsel and IM3 Ooredoo.

• Telkomsel is the national leader with a market share of about 40%.
• IM3 Ooredoo (a.k.a. Indosat) is the 2nd operator in Indonesia with 22% share of the market.
• 3 (= Tri)
• XL Axiata
• Smartfren
• Net1

For more info on your telecom options, check out my post on How to Get Cheap Mobile Phone Service Worldwide.

Where to stay in Ubud:  

Ubud has many good hostels for incredibly cheap prices.  Just about the cheapest on Earth.  Don’t be turned off by the guesthouses that are a mile or two out-of-town.  Staying in a quiet place next to a rice field with swaying palm trees is a better way to experience Ubud than being on a dusty, loud main street.

• Putra Ubud Guest House has dorm beds with breakfast for $2.50.  It has free wi-fi, air-con, and a garden.  It’s centrally located, and the Bamboo Bar is directly below, if you like live music.
• Tri Hita Karana House  has dorm beds with breakfast for $3.50.  It has free wi-fi, air-con, and a POOL.  It’s about 2 miles out-of-town, but they rent scooters, or you can easily catch a tuk-tuk.
• Kasih Sayang House has dorm beds with breakfast for $4.  It has free wi-fi, air-con, and a POOL.  Its got garden views and lots of beanbag chairs.  Its 2.3 miles out-of-town, but they rent scooters, or you can easily catch a tuk-tuk.
• Lagas Hostel has dorm beds with breakfast for $5.  It has free wi-fi, air-con, and a BIG POOL.  Its 1.5 miles out-of-town, but they rent scooters, or you can easily catch a tuk-tuk.

Where to eat in Ubud: 

Ubud is the kind of place where you can afford to splurge, as even the best restaurants are affordable by western standards.

That said, here is where you’ll find some of the best dishes on Bali:

• Avacado Warung
• Abe Do
• Ithaka Warung
• Warung Pondok Madu
• Labak Sari

Ubud Nightlife:  

• No Mas has live bands and Djs.
• Folk Pool & Gardens has a swim up bar!
• Bar Luna for some upscale European feel.
• CP Lounge – the nightclub in Ubud. A late night spot with bands starting at 9.