With great wine at sidewalk cafes, and elderly people playing chess in tree-lined city parks, Chisinau is a lovely, relaxed city, made for a summertime stroll.  The downtown bustles with activity by day, and a youthful nightlife culture takes over select spots each night.  Rolling hills and wineries beckon just outside the city.  All this for a fraction of the cost of living in Western Europe.  Now is the time to visit Chisinau, Moldova.

Soviet Architecture

Chisinau (pronounced KEE-SHE-KNOW) doesn’t make the best first impression.  Much of the old city was destroyed in WWII, and the Soviets rebuilt most of it in brutalist concrete style.  As you drive into the city center, you pass drab grey apartment buildings that seem to go on forever.  If you are looking for stunning architecture, you won’t find it.  But you will find a clean, pedestrian friendly, comfortable city full of tree-lined parks, benches, statues, and fountains.

There are no “must do” Chisinau tourist attractions in this spread-out city of 700,000.  It has the requisite national museums and opera house like all European capitols.  The reason to visit is just to experience Moldovan life and enjoy a relaxing, pleasant, and affordable city.  Walk the length of the main street, Stefan cel Mare central.  Check out the market.  Sip a coffee at an outdoor cafe and people watch.  Enjoy a great meal for a third the price of home.  Get a craft beer at an underground pub and strike up a conversation with a local.

Why Visit Chisinau Moldova?

Soviet Legacy

History buffs will find that nearly all traces of the Soviet dominance of Eastern Europe have been washed away from most countries in the region.  But on the main street of Chisinau, vendors set up sidewalk shops selling old Russian military uniforms and medals, Soviet pins and coins, Russian hats, all kinds of fascinating behind-the-Iron-Curtain memorabilia.

Green spaces

The Soviets built parks the right way, and Chisinau is no exception.  Lots of green with ample benches to sit and watch the world go by with your coffee (or vodka).  Mare Central Park (Parcul Ştefan cel Mare) is one of the biggest, and right in the center of the city.

Quality wine

Moldova was the winemaker for all of the old Soviet Union.   The Mileștii Mici winery has 120 miles of underground tunnels holding the world’s largest collection of wine.  It is truly world-class stuff.  There are several wineries near Chisinau you can visit for a tasting.  And where else can you can get a bottle of fine wine for under 6 dollars?

Cheap living

It’s incredibly cheap in rural Moldova.  Chisinau might be the cheapest European city, with only Ukraine, Transnistria and Albania possibly being cheaper.  You can rent an apartment for $10 a day.  You can have a nice dinner at a restaurant with a couple of beers or a bottle of wine for $8!

The 10 Best Things to do in Chisinau, Moldova:

#1 Go for a stroll

Central Chisinau is a lovely place for a walk.  Free Tour Chisinau has a daily walking tour.  Some of the top sights are the Victory Memorial, the Nasterea Domnului Cathedral and Park, the Triumphal Arch, the Stephen the Great Monument and Park, and the Lovers Sculptures.  When you reach Str E Doga, you’ll find a shaded, no-cars, pedestrian street lined with outdoor bars and restaurants.  This might be a good place to stop and sample a few Moldovan wines and do some people watching.

#2 Go on a winery tasting tour 

Milestii Mici is the largest winery in the world,  with 120 miles of tunnels and 1.5 million bottles of wine!  Day trips from Chisinau start at $65.

#3 Explore the National Museum of History of Moldova

It entertainingly explains Moldovan life and culture.  Open 10-6 except Mondays.  Entry just $1.

#4 Attend the Opera & Ballet Theatre 

Get some high culture at the with tickets starting at just $3.  They put on a truly professional performance, making this surely one of the best values of all Chisinau attractions.

#5 Admire the fin-de-siècle architecture

Particularly on the main street of B-dul Ştefan cel Mare, such as the City Hall and the Organ Hall.  Many buildings were designed by master architect Alexander Bernardazzi.

#6 Take a day trip to Transnistria

Discover a fascinating time-warp to the old Soviet Union in a breakaway region of Moldova “The Country that doesn’t exist”.

#7 Do a half-day trip to Orheiul Vechi 

Old Orhei is Moldova’s most famous sight, a hilltop cave monastery over a river 30 miles north.  One of the most popular Chişinău tours.

#8 Rent a mountain bike at Velopoint

You can bike through the rolling hills and beautiful farmlands outside the city.  Seeing the countryside on two wheels is one of the best things to do in Moldova.

#9 Shop at the Piata Centrala

The Central market where people come to sell fruit, vegetables, crafts, and most anything makes for great people watching.

#10 Visit the Military Museum

Moving imagery and info on Soviet repression under Stalin.  Lots of cool tanks and guns. makes this one of the top Chisinau sights.  Entry is only $1.

Things to Do in Chisinau Moldova: Know Before You Go:

Backpacker Daily Budget:

$28.  It is very, very cheap when you visit Chisinau, Moldova. $7 for a hostel bed, $4 for each meal, $2 beers.  $1 entry to a museum.  You can live like a king here.

Cheap Beer index:

$2.01 (35 Leu) for a 16 ounce pint of excellent local beer in a restaurant.  I’m sure I could have found cheaper than this if I had more time to search.

When to visit Chisinau:

Summertime is when you want to be here.  May through September has highs in the 70’s.  Winter is cold, with lows in the 20’s.

What languages are spoken in Moldova?  

Most people speak Romanian (sometimes referred to as Moldovan).  Signs are in the Latin alphabet. Many also speak Russian.  Young people might speak some English.  Older folks will not.

Do you need a Moldova Visa?  

Visas are not required for nationals of USA, UK, Australia, and Canada.  You can stay for 90 days visa-free.

Getting to Chisinau:  

There are three common ways to visit Chisinau Moldova:

By Plane

The easiest would be to fly in.  Chisinau airport (KIV) has flights to cities all over Europe.  Moldova Airlines often has the best airfares.  Taxis are available and you pay the metered fare to the driver. The fare should be no more than 120 leu ($7) to any destination in Chisinau.  The cheaper alternative is to take the white minibus #165 for 3 leu; luggage will cost you another 3 leu.  There is also a trolleybus line #30 that costs 2 Leu and gets you right in the center.

There are ATM’s at the airport to get Moldovan Leu.  The currency exchange desk there offers terrible rates, so best to wait until you are in the city to get the bulk of your Moldovan currency.  Moldovan Leu (16.9 Leu=$1 as of 2018) are available at numerous ATMs.  You can also easily exchange Hryvnia, Dollars, Euros, Russian Rubles, Romanian Lei.  Moldovan Leu are difficult to exchange outside the country, so use em all up before you leave.

By Bus

You can arrive overland from Ukraine (via Transnistria), or from Romania via bus, likely from Bucharest, Romania (10 hours) or Odessa, Ukraine (5 hours).  This is the cheapest and fastest overland option.

By Train

Chisinau railway station is centrally located.  The train is slower then the bus and a little more expensive.  However, train travel is much more comfortable as you can walk around, and the overnight train has sleeper compartments.  I’d choose a 14 hour sleeper train over a 10 hour bus ride any day.

By private car

The roads are not great, and people drive a bit recklessly. A small road tax will apply at the border.

The most reliable and extensive domestic transport is by bus.  There are both small minibuses which seat around 15 people, and full-size coaches.  Around Chișinău, you can use the trolleybus for just 2 lei.  Marshrutkas/Rutierele are privately operated vans that run standard routes like a bus.  They are extremely cheap, perhaps 20 cents to go across town or $1 for an hour-long ride to another town.  Usually you wave them to stop, enter and sit down, and then pass your 3 leu fare to your neighbor to pass along to the driver.  Taxis are available.

Check out my Transnistria Travel Guide to learn about travel to and from that nearby area.  Learn how to get to Moldova for free on my page:  Nine Steps to Free Flights Worldwide.

Moldovan Currency and how to get it: 

Moldovan Leu (17 Leu=$1 as of 2019) are available at numerous ATMs.  You can also easily exchange Hryvnia, Dollars, Euros, Russian Rubles, Romanian Lei.  Moldovan Leu are difficult to exchange outside the country, so use em all up before you leave.  You can change some cash into Moldovan Leu at an exchange kiosk at the bus station that has good rates.  For more info on your cash-versus-credit card options when travelling, check out my post on How to Access your Money in Foreign Countries.

Stay Connected: 

You’ll want to get a Moldovan SIM card with enough data to last your stay.  Be aware that Moldova is not part of the EU, nor the EEA, so roaming rates on European SIM cards are not capped or regulated in the country and can be much higher.  Better to buy a local SIM card instead.  There are two main providers, Orange has 61% of the market, and MoldCell has 28%.  There are stores for each right outside the bus station.   The SIM card + prepaid data plan cost only 65leu or $3.75, and it gives 500MB data, enough to last a day.  For more info on your telecom options, check out my post on How to Get Cheap Mobile Phone Service Worldwide.

Where to stay in Chisinau:  

A short walk to center of the city will bring you to the best hostels in town.  Chisinau hotels are so inexpensive, why not splurge and get a downtown apartment for under $30?

• Hostel Suisse has dorm beds for $7 and is centrally located.
• IQ Hostel is well-reviewed and only $7 for a dorm bed.
• Amazing Ionika Hostel is the top rated in town, and has dorm beds, with breakfast for $8.  It has free wi-fi and a hot tub!
• Hostel City Center has a pool table, bike rental, fridges in dorm rooms, and privacy curtains on bunk beds.  Beds are $18.
• I stayed in a lovely AirBnB apartment right on the main street for $36.

Where to eat in Chisinau:  

Coffee:

Many street truck vendors make excellent coffee, for cheaper than the brick and mortar shops.  You can also try Coffee Molka, which is a sort of museum of coffee.

Lunch/Dinner: 

Definitely try out a restaurant serving local Moldovan cuisine.  Again, It’s so cheap in Chisinau, you can likely afford to eat at a nicer place than you might usually.

• La Placinte – Fantastic traditional Moldovan food at really low prices.
• Himalayan Kitchen – the best Indian food in town.
• Andy’s Pizza – this chain restaurant has more than just good pizza.
• Star Kebab – another chain that makes tasty kebabs on the spot.

Chisinau Nightlife: 

Chisinau has loads of nightlife.  Moldova’s per capita alcohol consumption rate is the world’s highest!  You’ll find bars with craft beer, wine bars, cocktail bars, and many clubs that pump until 5am.  There are far too many venues to list, but here are a few of the most popular:

Bars:

• Smokehouse – Excellent craft beers on tap.  American South barbeque food.  B-dul Ştefan cel Mare 128
• Mojito – Big cocktails and a well located patio.  Str Tricolorului
• Who’s Bar – cocktail bar with talented bartenders. Str Bucureşti 67
• Dublin Irish Pub – Great place to watch sports.  Str Bulgară 27

Clubs:

• Kira’s Club – Anything from Electro to pop in the basement.  Live music on Thursdays.  Asian fusion menu, mixed drinks, a terrace in summer, and a dance floor.  Veronica Micle 7 center District
• BarBar – A bar during the week, a club on weekends.  Very popular underground dance floor.  Eminescu, 56 Centre District
• Bandabar – A thriving new venue, with a giant dance floor, and the same owner as BarBar. Eminescu, 55 Centre District
• Jerome – Cocktail bar/club. Puskin, 55 Centre District
• Olan Deep – The techno club in town.
• Club Seven – Rock, metal and punk reign here.  Str. Bucuresti, 68 Centre District
• Activ – Bd. Dacia, 27 Botanica District
• Zaxi Rooftop Terrace –  Upscale small club on the Radisson rooftop.  77 Mitropolit Varlaam str. Radisson Blu Leogrand Hotel Centre District
• Entourage – str. 31 August 1989, 117 Centre District
• Teatrum – usually a restaurant, with dj’s at night.
• Black Elephant Club – this underground club has live music most nights of the week.

Get a Moldova guidebook:

  Moldova Travel Guide – 3 Days of Fresh Air in Moldova’s Countryside

What to pack:

You can wear the same clothes you’d wear anywhere in Europe.  To learn how to pack light and be prepared for anything, check out my post The Worldwide Travel Packing List.

Is Moldova Safe?

Yes, most travelers have no problems when they visit Chisinau, Moldova.  There are some things to be aware of:

• Ask to see menu prices before ordering drinks in a bar or club to avoid overpricing scams.
• Try to use ATM’s inside banks rather than on the street due to the popularity of skimming devices.
• Racism against dark-skinned people is common in Moldova.  Dark skinned tourists may face verbal or physical threats.
• Avoid interactions with police whenever possible.  Obvious foreigners being fined for imaginary violations is possible.

Final Thoughts: 

Moldova is the poorest country in Europe.  It has lost a massive portion of its population to emigration recently, with over 25% of Moldovan citizens living abroad.  In 2014 it was discovered that over a billion dollars was missing from Moldova’s major banks.  This amounted to over 12% of the entire GDP of the nation, and rioting ensued.  It’s a developing country, still recovering from the disintegration of the Soviet Union, and being thrust into nationhood in 1991.  It lost a chunk of its industry to the secession of Transnistria and a subsequent civil war in 1992.  So Chisinau has had a lot of hurdles to overcome, but it is a pleasant city, with coffee shops, green parks, beautiful monuments, and friendly people.  It is well worth a visit.  Someday it could be a hub for digital nomads, who would enjoy cheap living in a fun, nearby European capital.  Come visit now, before they arrive and all the prices double!

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