Kampog Ayer

Why travel to Brunei?  You can boat through stilt villages, eat delicious food at night markets, see waterfalls and golden mosques, and laze on China Sea beaches.

Brunei was in the news in 2019, but for all the wrong reasons.  The sultan of this oil-rich, Islamic, micro-state decided to impose the death penalty for adultery and same-sex relations.  International outcry led to a movement to boycott the Sultan’s many luxury hotels.  The sultan backed down from his medieval penalties, and the world’s attention to Brunei slipped back into oblivion.

So, what does all that mean for a traveler?  Is Brunei safe?  Is it worth visiting?  What is there to see?  We’ll explore all these questions.

What are some things to do in Brunei?

Learn All About The Sultan

Brunei’s wealth has been controlled by the same family for over 700 years. For much of the last three centuries it was a British protectorate, but the Sultan never relinquished power. Brunei almost joined with the Malay states when Malaysia was first created, but the Sultan of Brunei changed his mind at the eleventh hour and decided to go it alone with his oil riches. He made the right choice.

As recently as 1997 he was the richest man in the world, with 55 billion dollars. At one point the Brunei Sultan owned 531 Mercedes-Benzes, 367 Ferraris, 362 Bentleys, 185 BMWs, 177 Jaguars, 160 Porsches, 130 Rolls-Royces, and 20 Lamborghinis. His official residence is the Istana Nurul Iman, with 1,788 rooms, 257 bathrooms, and a floor area of 2,152,782 square feet, indisputably the world’s largest palace. He has complete control over all government decisions. His picture is on every denomination of currency, and his portrait hangs in every shop and restaurant. 

The Sultan does seem to have done well by his countrymen. Brunei people pay no income tax, have free health care and education. The Sultan even offers subsidized housing and cars. Beyond that, the country is just beautiful. It’s rain forests are intact. Roads are smooth. The capital is lined with flowers and banners. Buildings are freshly painted, and gleaming mosques abound. Smiling, friendly locals are driving new cars. Manual labor is completed by Bangladeshi guest workers.

Start your Brunei tour with the massive gold-domed Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddin Mosque  

This massive mosque built in 1958 dominates the skyline.  It’s central dome is covered in pure gold.  Opening Hours : Sun-Wed, 8am until 5:30pm, EXCEPT at Prayer times. Closed : Thurs-Fri.  Free entry.  Dress appropriately, no tank-tops/singlets, wear long pants.

Go for a jog by a waterfall in Tasek Lama Recreational Park.

This green urban park has a waterfall right in the middle of it.  Its the place to walk, jog or bike in the city.

Hire a boat to cruise through the Kampong Ayer stilt village.

After exploring the small city on foot, with the requisite breaks inside air-conditioned shopping malls to recover from the heat, we opted for a water taxi tour of the Kampong Ayer water village. We were barely within sight of the waterfront when our boatman spotted us and hailed us for a ride. For twenty Brunei Dollars ($14 USD) we got an hour-long tour in a long, narrow, outboard, wooden skiff. We chugged beneath a dense mangrove jungle, and zoomed under bridges connecting the stilt houses where 40,000 of BSB’s population lives.

Stuff your face at the Gadong Night Market.

The biggest market in town has many street stalls with delicious Malay specialties.

Laze About in A Seven-Star Resort

For once I had not booked the cheapest room in town. I found a good deal on a room at the Empire Hotel, Brunei’s purported “seven-star” resort. The hotel has been built at a cost of over one billllllllion dollars by the Sultan of Brunei’s brother. After a few wrong turns we found it, and it did not disappoint. The lobby featured a 100 foot high ceiling. In our room, even the toilet paper holder was gold-plated. By far the nicest place we’ve ever stayed, and for only $138.

Bask in the Sun on Beautiful Beaches

We awoke to pouring rain. After it abated, we ran along the golf course down to the gorgeous beach, where I jumped in the South China Sea. As some thunder rolled in, we got away from the water and back to our palatial room to watch the downpour. If we were going to be trapped in a hotel room, this was the place to be!

Brunei Tourism

Tourist travel to Brunei is not on anyone’s radar. Perhaps it is the total lack of political freedom that scares people. We heard the  song “I Kissed a Girl” by Katy Perry with the word “Girl” blanked out, leaving the listener to wonder what exactly she did kiss? Maybe it’s the fact that you cannot get a beer anywhere in the country. Possibly people have it confused with Bahrain, and expect desert and camels. Regardless, Brunei is a must-see for anyone passing though the island of Borneo. It has natural beauty, history (Magellan’s fleet landed here in 1521), great architecture, luxury resorts, great food, and friendly people. Now if they’d just reconsider a local microbrewery…

 

Travel Tips you Need to Know before you Travel to Brunei:

 

Backpacker Daily Budget:

$35 – You can get a hostel for $17, meals for $5 each, most sights are free, and there’s no beer to be had.

Cheap Beer index:

One Milllllllllllion dollars.   Brunei is a “dry country;” alcohol is not sold anywhere in the country and consumption of alcohol in public is prohibited by law. That said, non-Muslim visitors who travel to Brunei are allowed to bring in up to two litres of alcohol (wine or spirits), plus up to twelve cans of beer, lager or cider every 48 hours.  At customs you will be required to fill in a yellow form to declare your alcohol.  Keep your booze in your hotel room.  Don’t be visibly drunk.

When to travel to Brunei: 

Anytime you want to visit is fine.  The Brunei climate is hot all year round with highs ranging from 86 to 90.  But, Brunei weather brings a dry season and a wet season.  February-March-April is the best time to visit as it is the dry season.  September through January is the rainy season, and it REALLY rains.

What languages are spoken in Brunei?  

Brunei Malay, is the most widely spoken language.  The official language is Standard Malay.  English is widely used as a business and official language, and it is spoken by most.  A majority of Brunei’s Muslim population speaks some Arabic.

Do you need a Brunei visa?

Brunei Visas are not required for nationals of USA, UK, and CAN.  UK and US citizens can stay for up to 90 days.  Canadian citizens can stay for up to 30 days.   Under the visa policy of Brunei, Australians must purchase a single entry visa for B20 or a multiple entry visa for B30 at Brunei International Airport valid for 30 days.  Sorry mate.

How to travel to Brunei: 

BY AIR – The most likely entry point is Brunei International Airport (BWN), which has flights on Air Asia, Cebu Pacific, Lucky Air, Malaysia Air, Royal Brunei Airlines, and Singapore Air.  There are lots of cheap flights to Brunei airport.  You can get round-trip flights in from Kota Kinabalu for $45, and from Kuala Lumpur for $90.  Learn how to fly to Brunei for free on my page:  Nine Steps to Free Flights Worldwide.  From the Brunei airport, you can get a taxi to Bandar Seri Begawan.  It takes 20 minutes and costs around B$25.   Or, you can walk to the bus stop for Purple buses to the city centre (only B$1) along with other busses for tours & hotel shuttles.

We left Kota Kinabalu, Malaysia to travel to Brunei at dusk. We were extremely disappointed to find the terminal undergoing a remodeling that had closed ALL the shops. Once past security, there was no food, water, or anything to be purchased. We had counted on getting dinner at the airport, and on buying a bottle of wine to bring into Brunei.  Right from the start I realized that Brunei tourism is a bit different from any other country I’ve ever been to. We flew Royal Brunei Airlines, which was staffed by an elegantly head-scarved flight attendant. Before taking off, the video screens played an imam melodically intoning a blessing from the Quran for a safe trip. This was followed by an informational video on Brunei which stated a penalty of DEATH for drug traffickers. As alcohol sales are illegal in Brunei, none were offered on board.  The short flight passed over oil rigs and oil tankers plying the South China Sea. We swooped low over a massive golden mosque just before landing. Customs were quick and easy.

BY LAND – You can drive a rental car, or ride a bus into Brunei from multiple border crossings with Malaysia.

BY SEA – There are several ferries daily to/from Labuan and one daily ferry each to/from Lawas and Sundar, both in Malaysia.  With a change of boats in Labuan, you can even make it to/from Kota Kinabalu in a day.

Getting around Brunei: 

Foreigners who hold a valid drivers licence and an International Driving Permit are permitted to drive a rental car in Brunei.  Cars drive on the left.  If you rent a car, consider a trip out to Ulu Temburong National Park

Taxis are not plentiful.

There is an extensive local bus system.

Much of the city is walkable.

Brunei Currency and how to get it: 

In Brunei money is easy to get.  Brunei Dollars (1.37BND = $1) are available in numerous ATM’s.  For more info on your cash-versus-credit card options when travelling, check out my post on How to Access your Money in Foreign Countries.

Stay Connected:  

There are two network operators in Brunei Darussalam: DST, and Progresif  Coverage is a bit better on DST. They have 2G on 900 MHz, 3G on 2100 MHz and  4G/LTE on 1800 MHz (band 3). Progresif has a smaller 3G-only network on 2100 MHz without 4G/LTE, but lower rates than DST.  You can buy a prepaid SIM card in every store of the operator showing your passport. Every SIM card contains an annual license fee of B$ 25 payable to His Majesty’s Government included in the starter pack (Tourist SIM is discounted). You need to register the SIM on your name at the point of purchase. An unregistered SIM card will stop working after 7 days.

For more info on your telecom options, check out my post on How to Get Cheap Mobile Phone Service Worldwide.

Where to stay in Brunei:  

The capital of Brunei, Bandar Seri Bagawan has two hostels that get rave reviews.  Either one would be a great choice.

Ae Backpackers Hostel at $16 has wi-fi, a free breakfast, helpful hosts, and is just a half mile further out of town then Hostelite

Hostelite Brunei at $17 has wi-fi, a free breakfast, helpful hosts, and is close to the Sultan Omar Ali Saifuddien Mosque, the Royal Regalia Museum, and the Yayasan Sultan Haji Hassanai Bolkiah Shopping Complex.

Brunei Restaurants: 

Try the local nasi katok, a combination of rice and spicy curried beef or chicken.  Also try out Teh Tarik, a sweet milk tea.

Some good cheap eats are: Thien Thien, and Chop Jing Chew

Brunei Nightlife: 

Uh….no.  Sorry.  Please see the “Beer Index” above.

Get a Brunei travel guidebook: 

Lonely Planet Malaysia, Singapore & Brunei  

What to Pack:  

Brunei is a conservative Muslim nation.  Dress appropriately.  To learn how to pack light and be prepared for anything, check out my post The Worldwide Travel Packing List.

Is Brunei safe? 

Yes.  Theft is uncommon, and violent crime almost unheard of.

However, there are some religious-based sharia laws that YOU must be aware of to keep yourself out of trouble.  You can be arrested for any of the following:

• consuming food, drink or tobacco in public during the fasting hours of Ramadan.
• Possession of alcohol without a permit
• Public drunkenness
• Sharing a hotel room with a member of the opposite sex who is not your spouse.  (Seriously, you cannot get a room with your boyfriend/girlfriend while on vacation here)
• Possession of pornographic material.  Understand that Brunei police might consider a bikini photo on your phone as “pornographic”.
• Certain prescription drugs.  Just because it is a normally prescribed drug in your country, doesn’t mean it won’t get you locked up in Brunei.
• Insulting or saying anything negative about the Sultan.  Apparently he’s very sensitive.
• Having children out-of-wedlock.
• Failing to attend Friday prayers (if muslim).
• The carriage of live ammunition, including amulets, lucky charms, decorations, and other byproducts containing prohibited items.
• Public display of Christmas decorations.

The following “crimes” can theoretically result in a death sentence.  Homosexual acts, rape, sodomy, and adultery can result in death by stoning.  The Sultan has backed down following the massive international outcry against his medieval punishments, and claims they “will not be enforced”

• Homosexual activity.
• Insult or defamation of the prophet Muhammad
• Insulting any verses of the Quran and Hadith
• Blasphemy (against Islam)
• Declaring oneself a prophet
• Apostasy (declaring one self a non-Muslim)
• Robbery
• Rape
• Sodomy
• Murder
• Adultery
• Possession of more than 1 g of heroin, 1 g of morphine, 1 g of cocaine, 1 g of cannabis, 1 g of cannabis resin, or 1 g of opium.  Even consumption of small amounts can lead to 10 years’ jail.  Don’t bring your weed to Brunei.