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8 Awesome Things to Do in Leon Nicaragua – Don’t Miss #2

8 Awesome Things to do in Leon Nicaragua gets you to sandboard down volcanoes, swim in the Pacific, shop in colorful markets, and enjoy thriving nightlife.

 

8 Awesome Things to Do in Leon Nicaragua: 

Leon street - Things to do in Leon Nicaragua

One of many gorgeous cathedrals

anti Bush graffiti back in 2007
Daniel Ortega poster

#1 Best Things to do in Leon Nicaragua:

Do a Free Walking Tour of the 18th century Spanish Colonial architecture, and the poignant street art.

Guruwalk.com provides some great city guides through their Free Walking Tour.  Leon is the heart of the leftist FSLN Sandinista party. It has lots of artistic murals commemorating the revolution, and also denouncing the USA. I especially like the juxtaposition of Sandino standing on the head of capitalist Uncle Sam with a Mercedes parked in front. The “Bush Genocide, The Enemy of Humanity” graffiti is painted on the front of the municipal building, so obviously the local government is in agreement and allows it to stay there.  It is also a university city, so there is a youthful vibe that was absent in staid old conservative Granada. On the flip side, Leon is not a pretty as Granada, not as tourist friendly, and it’s busier, louder, and hotter. If you only had a few days in Nicaragua, I’d recommend Granada, but for a more in-depth dive into the culture of Nicaragua, Leon is the place to be.

Hopefully the last time I’m forced into an orange jumpsuit

#2 Best Things to do in Leon Nicaragua:

Sandboard down a volcano at Cerro Negro Volcano

What is volcano surfing? It consists of carrying a wooden board covered in metal sheeting up a 1000ft high active volcano, putting on a bright orange denim prison jumpsuit and science-class plastic goggles, then sliding down on crushed rock at 25mph holding on for dear life.  If you only have one day in Leon, make this one of your your top things to do.

A wild horse delayed our arrival at Cerro Negro. It was galloping in the middle of the road, and when we tried to pass it, it would sprint to hold us off.

We donned our prison jumpsuits. Right before sliding down the rocky 41 degree slope of an active volcano, a member of group realized none of us even signed a waiver. Our guides response; “T. I. N. This is Nicaragua.”  It was a good excursion, maybe not $30 good, but worth a try once. They had a guy with a radar gun at the bottom. I clocked in at 39kph, and smoked the guy I was racing against. The fastest guy in the group hit 56kph. If I had been up against him, I think I would have taken more risk and could have gone faster. There’s something about getting smacked in the face by rocks at high speeds and knowing the nearest decent hospital is about 1000 miles away in Texas that slows a man down.  You did get travel insurance right?

#3 Best Things to do in Leon Nicaragua:

Day Trips to go Swimming in the Pacific at Los Penitas beach for $2.

From Leon city center, I trekked a scorching half mile to catch the chicken bus to the Pacific beach town Los Penitas. It’s only twelve miles from Leon, yet the bus (50 cents) took a sweaty hour to reach it.

Our arrival made it all worthwhile though, as smooth black sand beach gave way to surfable waves. I rented a shortboard and caught a couple. We had lunch at Beach Hostal Oasis. Oasis has a great elevated thatched roof hut, several hammocks, cold beer, and non-existent service.  Dorm beds are $9.  You can rent surfboards for $9 a day.  It’s not the greatest hostel, but at $9 a night for beachfront living?  Yes please.

Some kids tried to sell us shell necklaces to no avail, and when that didn’t work they dragged out a horse on a tether. I’d never ridden a horse, so I gave the kids a dollar and rode the skinny nag up and down the beach. It wouldn’t respond to any of my commands (it probably doesn’t speak English).

#4 Best Things to do in Leon Nicaragua:

Cheer for the hometown Leones at a baseball game.  

While most of Latin America is crazy for football (soccer), Nicaragua loves baseball.  They have even sent a couple guys to the Major Leagues.  You can enjoy some skilled play for just a few dollars.  You can get a seat behind home plate, with food and beer for only $5.

#5 Best Things to do in Leon Nicaragua:

Do a hike up an active volcano for $20.

You can take a $20 tour to see the active Masaya Volcano. Steam poured from the crater as our guide told us how the dictator Somoza once dropped political enemies from a helicopter into the crater in the 70’s when it had molten lava. Nice. It’s a cool volcano if you have never seen one, but for a guy from Hawaii, eh, not so much.

#6 Best Things to do in Leon Nicaragua:

Take some affordable Spanish lessons.

Of all the places in Central and South America, Nicaragua may be the cheapest place to live and learn Spanish.  And Leon in particular has a huge student population full of budding teachers, eager to make a few bucks.

#7 Best Things to do in Leon Nicaragua:

Walk through San Juan Market and shop with the locals.

Come experience one of the most laid-back markets you’ve ever seen.  Nicaraguans are not the most motivated people I have met. I seldom see anyone particularly eager to make a sale. Nicas do a lot of sitting, and walking very slowly. Despite quickly growing numbers of western tourists, with pockets full of cash to spend here, few Nicas have made any attempt to capitalize on this. They seem to regard tourists as a strange curiosity, rather than a source of income.

#8 Best Things to do in Leon Nicaragua:

Enjoy some of the best nightlife in Nicaragua in this university town.

Nicaragua produces a fantastically smooth rum called Flor de Cana. You can get a whole 750ml bottle along with a bucket of ice and a couple Cokes for just $12 in most bars. Crazy cheap.  It’s not hard to meet people and find people to hang out with here. In Leon, the Via Via and Bigfoot hostels are directly across from each other on the same street. This is the center of the backpacking universe for Nicaragua. Around happy hour you can find every gringo face in town in one of these places. As such, I grabbed a stool at the bar at Bigfoot, and within minutes I had joined a posse of travelers on a bar-hopping city tour. I went to see a German movie with Spanish subtitles at the French Cultural Center in Nicaragua along with a Brit, a Belgian, and an Aussie. Later we added a Norwegian, a Canadian, some Dutch, and hit the town.

 

8 Best Things to Do in Leon Nicaragua – Need to Know Before You Go:

 

Backpacker Daily Budget:

$21. Nicaragua has the cheapest cost of living in Latin America.  $6 hostel beds, $1 beers, $2 street food.  A budget backpackers dream location.

Cheap Beer index:

35 cordobas ($1.08) for a 12 ounce bottle of Tona or Victoria in a restaurant

When to visit Leon:  

Leon is hot.  REALLY HOT.  You can come anytime, but the best time to visit is winter; November to February.  Average highs are “only” 88, and it is the dry season.  In March and April it heats up, averaging 94.  And in summertime, May through October, it is hot AND humid, with rainy season peaking in September and October.  Remember some sage advice for walking around in Nicaragua; “If you can see your shadow, you are walking on the wrong side of the street”.

What languages are spoken in Nicaragua?

Spanish.  Very few people speak English, though people in tourism related businesses will.

Do you need a Nicaragua visa?

Visas are not required for nationals of USA, UK, AUS, and CAN.  You can obtain a ‘Tourist Card’ on arrival in Nicaragua for US$10 for stays of up to three months.  Nicaragua is party to the Central America Border Control Agreement (CA-4).  Under the terms of this agreement, you can travel within any of the CA-4 countries (Honduras, Nicaragua, El Salvador and Guatemala) for a period of up to 90 days without completing entry and exit formalities at any border immigration checkpoints. This period begins at the first point of entry of any of the CA-4 countries.

Fines are applied for travelers who exceed this 90 day limit, although a request for an extension can be made for up to 30 days by paying a fee before the 90 days limit expires. If you’re expelled from any of the four countries you are also excluded from the entire CA-4 region.

Getting to Leon:

If you fly in, the nearest airport is Managua (MGA).  The airport is a 90 minute ride to Leon.  If you are arriving to the airport at night, I would recommend making Granada your first destination, as you do NOT want to try to navigate a bus ride in Managua at night.  If you arrive in the daytime, and want to venture into the crummy, crime ridden capital of Managua; there is a bus leaving for Leon every half hour from Isreal station or the La UCA station.  First, you’ll have to get a cab to the bus station, tell the cabbie: “Enfrente de UCA, Estación de Autobus a Leon”.  He’ll ask for $15, you might talk him down to $10.  Once at the bus station, you can get on a 15 seater microbus for about $2.

Do not trust ANYONE in the bus terminal.  The Managua bus station is literally the worst place in all of Nicaragua.  If you are destined to get robbed in Nicaragua, it is most likely to happen here.  Hold on to your bags, and get on a microbus as quickly as possible.  Hopefully you get a decent cabbie, who will walk you right up to your bus.

As an alternative, you can pre-hire a shuttle directly from the airport to Leon for $20 if you want to leave on their schedule, just one departure daily at 1pm.  A taxi will be exorbitantly expensive, possibly $60 or more.

If you are coming from Granada, you’ll take a bus from the Granada bus station to Managua bus station, and that bus driver or another “handler”, will deliver you to the correct bus on to Leon.  2 hours total, maybe $4 in bus fare.

You can arrive overland from Costa Rica.  From San Jose, luxury coach TICABUS has three trips a day for $29.  It will take you as far as the Managua bus station, then follow the above instructions.  You could also try other companies; TRANSNICA, King Quality, Nica Expresso, and Central Line.  These luxury buses have cushioned reclining assigned seats, air-conditioning, onboard lavatories, video screens, and sometimes even drink service.  Bring a jacket, cause the A/C is usually set to “Antarctica”.  You could also take the “chicken bus”, a remodeled old American yellow schoolbus.  Expect cheap fares, hard seats, no A/C, and yes, actual chickens on the bus.  It’s a perfectly resonable way to get around, it will just take a lot longer due to many stops and making connections.

You can arrive overland from Honduras.  From Tegucigalpa, luxury coach TICABUS has one trip a day for $28.  It will only take you as far as Managua city.  You’ll then follow the instructions above.   You could also try luxury bus companies TRANSNICA or King Quality.  Or you could take the “chicken bus” form here as well.

Learn how to get to Nicaragua for free on my page:  Nine Steps to Free Flights Worldwide.

Once in Leon, you’ll get dropped off at a bus station about a mile from all the hostels.  It is worth getting a $1 taxi or bicycle tuk-tuk to avoid walking a mile in the heat with everything you own.

I reached Leon by taking a bus from Granada to Managua, where I transited at the UCA station, and got on an A/C minivan to Leon. Using public transport in Nicaragua is really easy. As soon as you walk into the bus station carrying a backpack, men run over to you to direct you to the right bus and collect their 10 cent finders fee. In Granada, I was hustled onto a hot bus by a man yelling “Managua, Managua, Managua, UCA, Managua, Masaya, Managua!” The bus cost $1.  When we got to Mangaua UCA, he took me directly to my van for Leon ($2) , and when I got to Leon, I was directly placed into a cab ($1.50). It’s like having transportation babysitters!

Nicaragua Currency and how to get it:

Nicaraguan Cordobas (32.3 = $1USD) are available at numerous ATMs.  There are also money changers on the streets that are reputable.  In many places US dollars are accepted at the correct exchange rate.  For more info on your cash-versus-credit card options when travelling, check out my post on How to Access your Money in Foreign Countries.

Stay Connected:

Nicaragua’s two main telecom providers are:

  • Claro, the market leader in the country. It has good coverage and speed in Nicaragua.  2G/GSM is on 1900 MHz, 3G up to HSPA+ on 850 MHz. 4G/LTE has been started in 2015 on the 1700 MHz (AWS) frequency in Managua, Esteli, Leon and Matagalpa.  Prepaid SIM cards are sold for C$ 50 all over the country and in their shops.  For top-ups look for the Claro logo. Shops sell recharge cards in C$ 10-2500 giving 90 days of validity. Or top-up online through your personal profile or by Ezetop from abroad.
  • Movistar is the 2nd operator in the country with about 1/3 of the mobile market. It operates a hybrid non-GSM compatible CDMA network and 2G/GSM and 3G up to HSDPA on 850 and 1900 MHz. The coverage is a bit worse than Claro in rural areas, but rates for data are better and have taxes included.  4G/LTE has been started on 1900 MHz in Managua only in 2015 and has been extended to San Juan del Sur, Leon, Chinandega, Masaya, Granada, Esteli and Matagalpa in 2016/7 and about 50 cities in 2018.  Movistar started its sin fronteras (without borders) option for regional roaming in Central America. You can roam on the Movistar networks in Venezuela, Guatemala, El Salvador, Costa Rica and Panama without any surcharges now using your domestic allowance.  So if you are travelling all over Central America, AND you have a CDMA phone, go with Movistar.
  • For more info on your telecom options, check out my post on How to Get Cheap Mobile Phone Service Worldwide.
Casa Ivana back when it was $7 a night.

Where to stay: Leon Hotels and Hostels:

Leon has many, many hostels.  Backpackers are spoiled for choice.   You can really find as cheap a place as you want here.  Is it worth saving two dollars a night to be a half mile away from all the action?  Or would you rather pay $3 a night for a dingy room in a local family’s house?  Anything is possible here.  It is a budget travellers dream.  Hostels start at just $5 a night.

The top rated hostel in Leon is Poco a Poco Hostel.  For just $6 a night, you get a dorm bed in a spotlessly clean room.  The owners organize activities every night, and are super helpful.  Hammocks abound, you can play ping-pong, and they have a beautiful outdoor garden area.

Another great option is the Via Via Hostel, is the center of the backpacking world in Leon.  It has a very popular bar, a pool table, offers tours and an airport shuttle, FREE breakfast, and has beds for $9 a night.  Next door is Bigfoot Hostel, where you can sign up for volcano boarding.

If you want to upgrade from a hostel, I recommend Casa Ivana.  For around $20 a night, you get a comfortable private room with fan and en suite bathroom.  It has wi-fi, a nice enclosed garden, a small bar, and a shared kitchen.  It is located right in the center of town.

I stayed in a really nice bed and breakfast in Granada (Casa Silas B&B), but I decided to slum it in Leon. After escaping from a too-loud hostel the first night, I found Casa Ivana. I got my own room with two single beds, a bathroom with shower, sink and toilet, a strong fan for just $7. Was it nice? Not especially. But it was mosquito free, quiet, clean, secure, and if you lay directly under the fan and didn’t move a muscle, it was cool enough to sleep. (Note: Casa Ivana has been completely renovated since my stay, and is now a beautiful budget hotel at $20 a night) I bragged about my find to my friends staying at the trendy Via Via Hostel and paying an exorbitant $13 a night, but I was outdone by my friend Arnfinn who found some family who rented him a room for $3 a night. $7 a night is an all-time cheap room record for me. Arnfinn met a couple who claimed to have rented a cottage on the coast of India for 70 cents a night.

Where to eat in Leon: 

Some good cheap eats can be found at:

  • Del Norte
  • Cafe La Rosita
  • Antorchas bar and bocas
  • El Merendero for pizza
  • smoothies at Jugoso
Tona Beer

Leon Nightlife:

You can start at one of the “party hostels” like Via Via or BigfootThen onward to wander the Zona Rosa.   Antorchas Bar y Bocas is a good choice.  The clubs will be more like 80% locals and 20% tourists, with the music leaning toward reggaeton and bachata.  Better learn some latin dance moves!

Get a Nicaragua guidebook: 

The latest edition of Lonely Planet Nicaragua debuts June 2019. 

What to Pack:  

Bring sunscreen, light clothes, and a sunhat.  To learn how to pack light and be prepared for anything, check out my post The Worldwide Travel Packing List.

Is Nicaragua safe?

Nicaragua has been undergoing lethal government suppression of peaceful protests since April of 2018.  Clashes took place in Chinandega, Granada, León, Managua, Masaya, Rivas, Estelí and Matagalpa.  Please check latest news before visiting.  Until the protests, Nicaragua has been statistically the safest country in all of Latin America.  I walked all over Leon and Granada at night.  Managua is not safe.  Do not walk at night in Managua.

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