When you tell your friends you are going to Ljubljana (pronounced “loob-lee-yah-nah”), you should expect blank looks. Few people have heard of the capital and largest city of tiny Slovenia. This picturesque city of 300,000 dates back to at least the 12th century, but gets left off most European travel itineraries. It doesn’t have the fame of Prague, Budapest, or Krakow yet. But once you get here you’ll see why this little city is a gem worth staying for a while. So let’s explore the best things to do in Ljubljana:
Slovenia has both Adriatic Sea beaches and Alpine villages with stunning castles. And charming Ljubljana sits right in between. Americans and Western Europeans of a certain age might readily associate it as part of the former Yugoslavia, and thus arrive expecting to find an “Eastern European post-Communist vibe”. Visitors will be quickly disabused of that idea. Slovenia was indeed part of Yugoslavia for 73 years. But for the 120 years before that, it was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and also part of the Venetian Empire even further back. Slovenians are a Slavic people, but in Ljubljana you’ll feel much more influence from Austria and Italy, rather than from fellow Slavic countries further East.
Contemporary History of Ljubljana:
Slovenia escaped the violent collapse of Yugoslavia nearly unscathed. They declared independence on June 25, 1991, the very same day that neighboring Croatia declared it’s own independence. While Croatia suffered a devastating four year war with what today is Serbia and Montenegro, Slovenia’s war for independence lasted just ten days! The Slovenians had plans in place to capture border controls, and surround Yugoslav Army bases. The Yugoslav Army quickly realized it didn’t have any defensible positions or resources to hold Slovenia, especially when it had a much bigger war with Croatia. After ten days of isolated battles, and 74 deaths, a cease-fire was reached, and Yugoslav troops began withdrawing from Slovenia.
Slovenia has been a model addition to the European Union, which they joined in 2004. They are a net contributor to EU coffers, the only “Eastern European” country to achieve that so far. Their economy is growing quickly, having passed both Portugal and Greece in GDP per capita. For some comparison to their neighbors: The average Slovenian is half as rich as the average Austrian, and 25% poorer than the Italians, but almost twice as rich as Croatians. Many Slovenians work across the border in Austria, and vacation on the sea in Croatia.
They have left their communist history behind and have moved full-force into European culture, and capitalism. English is spoken by 75% of the people under the age of 35, roads are smooth, and everything is just gorgeous!
by Worldwide Wilbur September 2019
12 Best Things to Do in Ljubljana:
#1 of the Best Things to Do in Ljubljana:
Join a Walking Tour
One of the best things to do in Ljubljana is to start off your visit with a walking tour of the Old Town. There are two tours by the city tourism bureau available for just $19 each. If you arrive early, you can do the 10am Guided Walk & Funicular Ride to Ljubljana Castle. If you arrive later in the day, try the 2pm Walking Tour and River Cruise. Both tours have an English speaking guide, last about two hours, and include a stop for a snack. I arrived later, so I did the River Cruise tour my first day. Our guide (in the red shirt) was full of information and jokes, and we even got to randomly meet the Mayor of Ljubljana during our visit to the Town Hall. It was the perfect start to a visit.
We saw the Dragon Bridge, created in honor of mythical Greek hero Jason and the Argonauts arriving here and killing a dragon that was menacing the village.
And passed the Franciscan Church known as “the meeting place” to locals.
Prešeren Square is the beating heart of the city, with street musicians, fire jugglers, and people sitting on statues just watching the world go by.
Next to Preseren Square is the Triple Bridge. Once only a single bridge, in 1929 the city wanted to add a pedestrian lane and widen it. Architect Jože Plečnik decided it was cheaper and prettier to just add two pedestrian bridges on the sides rather than widen the existing one. Since 2007 all three bridges are pedestrian only, as is the entire city center, which really adds to the charm of Ljubljana. It’s so calm and walkable.
#2 of the Best Things to Do in Ljubljana:
Get on a River Cruise
At the end of our walking tour we boarded a glass tourist boat for a cruise along the Ljubljanica River. We admired the bridges and picturesque embankments and basically got to see the city from a different perspective. These cruises leave from several points on the river for less than 10 euros. Easily one of the best things to do in Ljubljana.
#3 of the Best Things to Do in Ljubljana:
Ride the Funicular up to the Castle
If you don’t get on the walking tour with the Ljubljana Castle, you’ll certainly want to add that on your own after your tour. It is open 9am to 9pm in summer. Pro Tip: All castle tickets are 10% off if you book online instead of at the door.
Castle tickets for adults are 10 Euro. If you want to add a round trip Funicular ride, it is 13E. If you want to also add the Time Machine Tour or the Behind Bars Tour, that gets you to 15E.
I chose to do the Time Machine tour. It’s an hour-long interactive tour with six costumed actors who each present a story about the history of the Castle. In July, August and September it is presented daily at 11am, 1pm and 5pm. I was afraid it was going to be embarrassingly hokey, but I actually enjoyed it. The actors do a great job, and interact with the crowd to get some laughs. It was easily worth the couple extra Euro.
The Behind Bars tour is also an hour-long an interactive tour with six costumed actors who each present a story about life in the dungeon of the castle. In July, August and September it is presented once daily at 3pm.
There is also an audioguide tour for 15E, if you don’t want to be trapped on an hour-long tour with thespians.
#4 of the Best Things to Do in Ljubljana:
Tour the City on Two Wheels
The walking tour was the perfect way to get my bearings and learn about the city’s history. But, even more fun is a 3 Hour Cruiser Bike Tour with Roundabout Travel. I looked at doing another 3 hour Bike Tour with Ljubljana Tourism, but they only go on Sundays and Thursdays, which didn’t work for me. The Roundabout trip gets you a ways out of the city, and a chance to see things you probably wouldn’t find on your own.
#5 of the Best Things to Do in Ljubljana:
Sample Slovenian Food
Hot Horse – Ever think about eating a horse? Yeah, me neither. But they do in Slovenia. And every Slovenian I asked about it seemed to have no idea that people don’t eat horse in most of the world. I’m not exactly recommending it, but if you are walking around lovely Tivoli Park, there is a fast food stand on the edge of the park that serves one thing only…horse. Yep, for a few euro, you can get a horse burger. I tried it, and it pretty much just tasted like a regular burger. Except for the whip marks from the jockey. Hey-Oooooo! (It’s directly across the street from the Union Brewery too) The old guy that runs the place seems perturbed by the tourists lining up giggling as they order.
But seriously, for real local food, try Sarajevo 1984, which serves delicious Bosnian food. More info below.
#6 of the Best Things to Do in Ljubljana:
Have a Drink with a View
The Nebotncik (Skyscraper) building is the highest in Ljubljana at 231 feet. Back when it was completed in 1933, it was the 9th tallest building in all of Europe. Ok, so it’s not exactly the Burj Khalifa, but it does have a restaurant at the top, and you get a great view over the city. I stopped in at sunset and had a beer while frantically snapping photos. You’ll find it at Štefanova ulica 1. Bring a jacket, cause it’s often windy and cold up there.
#7 of the Best Things to Do in Ljubljana:
Do a Pub Crawl
The best way to explore the nightlife is with Pub Crawl Ljubljana. They meet at 10pm every night of the week during July and August, and every night but Sunday in May, June, and September. It’s only $17, and you get an English speaking guide that takes you around to five different bars and clubs, with free shots at each stop. They play some fun drinking games on the way. They keep going til at least 2am.
#8 of the Best Things to Do in Ljubljana: Spend a Night Behind Bars
This could happen to you if the Pub Crawl goes off the rails. But seriously, you can spend a night in a converted prison that now houses the Celika Hostel. It’s been redesigned into a bright, arty, comfortable place to stay, but the bars are still intact!
#9 of the Best Things to Do in Ljubljana:
Explore Metelkova Mesto Street Art
Metelkova is officially an “autonomous social and cultural centre”, but up close it appears to be a controlled anarchy of squatters, artists, and the center of Ljubljana’s counter-culture.
The area was once the military barracks of the Yugoslav National Army. On June 25, 1991, Slovenia declared it’s independence from Yugoslavia. Within days the Yugoslav Army (now Serbia and Montenegro) pulled out of Slovenia, abandoning the barracks. Immediately after their departure some alternative and youth groups petitioned the city for use of the abandoned buildings. At first the city agreed, but then in 1993 decided to bulldoze some buildings. Squatters moved in and defended the destruction successfully, and have occupied the space ever since.
Today you’ll find interesting murals all over the buildings, and an art gallery aptly named “Galleria Alkatraz”. There are several bars that open in the evening. I wandered through around noon, and it just looked like the remnants of a giant frat party.
#10 of the Best Things to Do in Ljubljana:
Shop at one of the Markets
Ljubljana has several street markets. The biggest is the Mestna Trznica “Central Market”. Here, you’ll find fruit, vegetables, handicrafts, souvenirs and even street musicians. Open every day but Sunday at Pogacarjev trg 1.
On Saturdays you’ll find two Art Markets – One by Stari and Gornji trg Square has free creative workshops for adults and children, theater performances, music concerts. Another at Novi trg Square has painting, sculpture, design, textiles, ceramics, decor, and jewelry for sale.
If you are in town on a Sunday, be sure to catch the Flea Market on Cankarjevo Nabrezje Embarkment along by the river. Open about 8am til noon.
#11 of the Best Things to Do in Ljubljana:
Get a Green Escape in the city
Ljubljana’s Tivoli Park is five square kilometers of forest right in the city. It has miles of paths for biking, walking, or jogging. It’s full of ponds, fountains, playgrounds, and grassy fields and flowers. I went for a pleasant jog here one morning, and found every fit person in the city doing the same!
#12 of the Best Things to Do in Ljubljana:
Get outside the city to Lake Bled:
There is lots to see outside Ljubljana. But if you only have time for one day-trip, you must make it a Trip to Lake Bled and Bled Castle This is by far the number one sight in Slovenia, and for good reason. I scoured the interwebs for the best deal on a tour, and I found Kompas Tours to have the best price at $56, and the best reviews.
Lake Bled has emerald-green waters, a picture-perfect postcard church on the island in the middle, a medieval castle on the rocky cliff, and some of the highest peaks of the Slovenian Alps as the background.
Towering 330 feet above the lake, Bled Castle is the iconic image of a medieval fortress, with towers, ramparts, moats and a terrace offering magnificent views. The castle houses a reconstruction of Gutenberg’s wooden printing press, on which for a small fee, a printer will demonstrate old printing techniques using hand-made paper by stamping your name on a certification that you visited. Be sure to try Bled’s famous cream cake, kremšnita.
For 15 Euros, you can take a Pletna boat, a traditional boat known only to this region, to the tiny tear-shaped island on the lake. I chose instead to walk the circumference of the lake, a pleasant, shaded 4 mile path. There are a couple of public beaches where you can jump in, and places to stop for a beer or an ice cream.
So, we’ve agreed that you are going to Lake Bled right? Well, if you want a full day of sightseeing, you can easily add some things on to your Lake Bled Tour.
For $68, you can do a Day Trip to Bled and Vintgar Gorge. This is the trip I chose. We did all of the above, as well as a visit to Vintgar Gorge. Here we walked a mile on a wooden path through a tight canyon, above the rushing waters of the River Radovna. The walkway ends at the Šum Waterfall, and you can stop for lunch in a little cafe before making the return walk back to the start.
After that we drove to the stunningly beautiful glacial Lake Bohinj in Triglav National Park. Here you can jump in and swim, or explore the lakeside on foot, or by kayak/canoe/paddleboard. I opted to jump in, and it was coooooold! But the water is so crystal clear and refreshing, I loved it.
Our last stop was a visit to the well-preserved town of Skofja Loka. We walked around the medieval town center, and learned the history of the town. It was great to see a “real” historic town in Slovenia. Ljubljana is very beautiful, but it is clear that lots of money has been invested to make the city center look absolutely perfect. Skofja Loka looked like just a regular town that happened to have lovely 18th century buildings still in use after all this time. Other popular day trips include Postojna Cave.
If you want to save some money, or just don’t wish to join a tour, there are several other options to get to Lake Bled from Ljubljana including the bus, train, or even a taxi.
Know Before You Go:
Backpacker Daily Budget:
$50. $15 for a decent hostel bed. $18 for three meals from local street food kiosks. $6 to get into the castle. $3 for two public bus rides. $8 for three beers.
Cheap Beer Index:
$2.46 It is possible to get a Union or Lasko draft at the Pivnica Union Brewery for just 2.20 Euro. This cool bar is co-located with the Union Brewery in the University section of town. Local draft beers are usually $2.60 to $3 all over town. But, you can also get excellent Slovenian craft beers on tap in the $3 -$4 range, and the normal tap beer size here is a big 17 oz/500ml, not 12oz/330ml.
When to visit:
The best time to visit Slovenia is in summer. June, July, August and early September have highs in the 70s, and lows in the 50s. December, January and February only get into the 30s. Rainfall is about the same year-round.
What languages are spoken in Slovenia?
Slovenian is the national language, but English is also spoken as a second (or third, or fourth) language by over 60% of the population, and most of the people you’ll meet in tourism related industries.
Do you need a Slovenia visa?
Visas are not required for nationals of USA, UK, Australia, and Canada. Slovenia is a member of the EU, and is within the Schengen Zone, where you can stay for 90 days out of a 180 day period visa-free.
How to Get to Ljubljana:
Ljubljana Jože Pučnik Airport (LJU) is 15 miles northwest of the city. It serves cities all over Europe as well as Tel Aviv, Israel and Hurghada, Egypt. It WAS the home base of Adria Airways, which just went bankrupt on September 24, 2019. Learn how to get to Slovenia for free on my page How to Fly For Free
From the airport to the city:
- The cheapest option is the Public Alpetour Bus #28 for 4.10 Euro. It leaves on the hour for a 50min ride. 4.10e payable to the driver. It drops you off at main bus station, bay #28. From the bus station it should be walkable distance to any lodging in the city center. Departure Schedule: From Monday to Friday: 5.00, 6.05, 7.00, 8.00, 9.00, 10.00, 11.00, 12.00, 13.00, 14.00, 15.00, 16.00, 17.00, 18.00, 19.00, 20.00. Saturdays, Sundays and holidays: 7.00, 10.00, 12.00, 14.00, 16.00, 18.00, 20.00. I rode the bus BACK to the airport. It was cheap and easy. My only issue was that “Bay 28” was a little hard to find. Be sure to ask them to point you the right way from the ticket window.
- You can book a Shuttle Bus that drops you at your hotel for 10 euro. The main companies are GoOpti, Nomago, Markun Shuttle, MNJtransfer and ZUP Prevozi. I chose to ride with GoOpti, as they had a booking desk right outside customs. Despite being told a van would leave “in a few minutes”, we actually sat and waited 50 minutes to leave until the van was full, a transport practice I thought only existed in Africa. I realized I should have just taken the bus, which was my choice on the return trip.
- A taxi from the airport should cost 25-35 Euro. Agree to the price before stepping in the taxi.
By road or train:
You can drive into Slovenia from Austria, Hungary, Croatia, or Italy. Vienna, Bratislava, Munich, and Budapest are 4-5 hours away. Venice is less than 3 hours, and Zagreb less than 2. Buses are available.
How to Get Around Ljubljana:
Walking – The city is pretty small, and you can see quite a bit just by walking around. If you are just here to stroll and experience the city, you are unlikely to need any public transport. The city center has large areas closed off to vehicles, making Ljubljana a lovely walking city.
Cycling – Ljubljana has an amazing FREE bike share network. There are 51 BicikeLJ stations around the city, about 500 meters apart one from another, where you can hire and return a bike. The first hour of hire is free of charge. You will just need to pay 1 € for a weekly subscription. The city is bike-friendly and flat.
City Bus – 42 bus lines connect all parts of the city. Buses run from about 5am til Midnight, depending on the line. You’ll need an Urbana Card to ride. One trip costs 1.30 € and allows you to change as many buses as you need in 90 minutes. When you get on, you must hold your Urbana Card to the scanner. When you hear a beep, you have validated your ride. Urbana Cards can be purchased at news stands, gas stations, tourist offices, and post offices.
There is no metro, Uber or Lyft in Slovenia.
Taxis are generally honest and cheap. Flagfall is 1 to 1.5Euro, and then .9 to 1.1 Euro per kilometer. Recommended companies are: Taxi Laguna, Taxi Metro, and Taxi Ljubljana. Avoid taxis with no company name, often hanging out in front of tourist hotels.
Local Currency and how to get it:
Euros (0.90=$1 as of 2019) are available from numerous ATMs. For more info on your cash-versus-credit card options when travelling, check out my post Should I Exchange Money Before I Travel?
Stay Connected:
Slovenia has 3 major networks that offer prepaid SIM cards for tourists:
Telekom Slovenije is the biggest operator in the country, with a 45% market share. Their prepaid SIM card called Mobi is sold in their stores and at service stations and post offices. It’s at 8.50 € for the SIM card including 5 € credit. You can get the following data packages:
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- 400MB 30days 3.95
- 1GB 30 days 7.00
- 5GB 30 days 10.00
A1 Slovenija is the #2 operator in the country, with a 31% market share. Their voice and data prepaid SIM is called Simpl and available at their stores at service stations, and post offices for 6 € and contains 5 € credit valid for 30 days. You can choose between standard SIMPL plan, SIMPL Mali and SIMPL Veliki plans:
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- Simpl: is their default plan. Data stays at 0.15 per MB all the time
- Simpl mali: with 500 units (= mins, SMS or MB) for 30 days – 5 €
- Simpl veliki: with 5000 units (= mins, SMS or MB*) for 30 days – 7.99 €
Telemach mob is the #3 operator in the country, with a 15% market share. Their prepaid voice & data starter package is available at their stores, and at service stations It’s called FREE2GO and sold at 3.99 € containing 2 € valid for 90 days. They give heavy bonuses for top-ups all valid for 30 days:
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- 2 €: 20 units (MB, mins or SMS)
- top-up 5 €: 50 units (MB, mins or SMS)
- 10 €: unlimited on-net mins, 100 units (MB, off-net mins, SMS)
- top-up 20 €: unlimited on-net mins, 200 units, 20 GB (EU cap: 5.5 GB)
If you have a European SIM, you are all set. Slovenia is part of the EU, where from June 2017 new international roaming rules are enforced. You can now ‘roam like at home’ at domestic rates rather than excessive roaming rates. For more info on your telecom options, check out my post Get The Best International Phone Plan
Where to stay:
The CHEAPEST Hostel – Hostel Sleeping Beauty For $15, you get a bed in a well reviewed, central spot.
The BEST Hostel – Kva Hostel For $25 a night, you get a bed in a squeaky clean, centrally located, friendly facility with free breakfast and bike rental available.
The BEST CHEAP Hotel – Rooms Ambrozic For $60 a night, you get a single room with a river view close to the old town, a TV, and a private bathroom.
Most Historic Luxury Hotel – Grand Hotel Union Open since 1905, this Art Nouveau gem has rooms for $170.
Where to eat:
Sarajevo 1984 was my favorite restaurant in the city. While technically serving Bosnian food, the staples are Slovenian traditional favorites as well. Be sure to try cevapcici (sausages) and kajmak (a tangy soft cheese), and wash it down with a Cockta (Slovenia’s favorite soda).
Ljubljana Nightlife:
For a small city, Ljubljana punches above its weight in nightlife. It has an excellent craft beer scene. I enjoyed some fine microbrews at Daktari, Pop’s Place, and Sir Williams Pub. The riverside is loaded with al fresco restaurants and primo people watching. This is an overpriced, but atmospheric place for dinner.
Later on you can hit some more hopping bars like: Captain’s Cabin, Cutty Sark, and Parlament.
And finally, if you really stay up late, you can end up at the clubs such as Cirkus, Club K4, or Orto
Get a guidebook:
I really liked the Rick Steves Croatia and Slovenia guidebook. Rick knows Europe. And he knows budget travel. He makes very specific itinerary recommendations and isn’t afraid to tell you what stuff is worth skipping. He helps me cut to the chase and lays out an itinerary to make the best use of your time.
What to pack:
You can wear the same clothes you’d wear anywhere in Europe. To learn how to pack light and be prepared for anything, check out my post International Travel Packing List: All In a Carry-On!
Is Ljubljana safe?
Slovenia is very safe, one of the safest countries in Europe. It has an annual murder rate of 0.9 per 100,000 people. That puts it on par with Iceland and Ireland, and much safer than the USA’s rate of 5.3.
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