Site icon Worldwide Wilbur

18 Amazing Things To Do In Molokai: Don’t Miss #6!

Things To Do In Molokai

“18 Amazing Things to Do in Molokai” takes you to the Kalaupapa leper colony, a scenic drive past ancient fishponds and historical churches, flying by 3000 foot sea cliffs, and to stunning sunsets on endless beaches.

by Worldwide Wilbur, June 2019

Why go to Molokai?

This gorgeous island lies untouched by mass tourism. It boasts Hawaii’s longest white sand beach. The tallest sea cliffs in the world are found along its north shore. Its barrier reef and black sand beaches offer pristine snorkeling. You can visit ancient heiau (temples) and rock fishponds built centuries ago. Molokai is the way Hawaii used to be.  18 Amazing Things to Do in Molokai Island will show you how to get to these special places found on no other island.  Go now, before its too late.

Where is Molokai?

Molokai, nicknamed “The Friendly Isle” is the fifth largest of the eight main Hawaiian islands, and is located just eight miles to the west of Maui and ten miles north of Lanai. It is 38 miles long from East to West, and only 10 miles wide North to South.

What is it like on Molokai?

Molokai has a very different vibe than its neighbors Maui and Lanai. While Maui and Lanai are both 100% geared around tourism, life in Molokai is not focused on tourism at all. There is no Hilton or Marriott, no Starbucks, no McDonalds, not even a stoplight!

Molokai is considered the “Most Hawaiian Island” because it has the largest percentage of Native Hawaiian residents in the state (excluding the tiny island of Ni’ihau). Over 45% of the islands residents are of native descent. Only 7000 people live on the island, with half of them located in sleepy Kaunakakai.

 

18 Amazing Things to do on Molokai:

 

#1 Fly into the Molokai Leper Colony:

What? A leper colony? In the USA in 2019??  Kalaupapa National Historical Park still houses a handful of elderly Hansen’s Disease patients, who choose to stay in the only home they have known for decades. From 1866 to 1969 this inescapable peninsula formed an open-air quarantine prison for sufferers of leprosy. You won’t actually get to meet them, but the fun and adventure is the exciting flight in, and the stunning views of 3,000 foot sea cliffs from the bottom. You’ll learn about the history of the colony, and in particular the selfless dedication of Father Damien.

You MUST sign up with a tour company, as no one is allowed entry to Kalaupapa without a permit.  And you must fly in, as there is currently no overland or sea access to this isolated peninsula.  Mokulele Airlines has a package tour that includes airfare from Maui, the permit, a day tour by bus around the peninsula to visit the historical sites, and get up close to the tallest sea cliffs on earth.  This is without a doubt the most popular of all the things to do in Molokai.

(The Kalaupapa Trail is closed “indefinitely” after a landslide destroyed the bridge on the trail’s second switchback in December of 2018. Massive reconstruction is needed to make the trail safe, and there is no timeline for completion. The Molokai Mule Ride and hiking down are not possible.  The only way to reach Kalaupapa now is by plane.  Again, you must have a permit to visit Kalaupapa, so don’t rush out to buy a plane ticket, sign up for a tour first.)

#2 Own the Sunset at Papohaku – The Best Beaches on Molokai.

If you have ever dreamt about having a golden sand Hawaiian beach all to yourself, this might be your chance.  Certainly one of the most relaxing things to do in Molokai.  The best of all Molokai beaches, Papohaku is a massive 3 miles long, and yet, on any given evening, you might have it all to yourself. It’s at the far western end of the island, far from the main town. As the beach faces west, you are in the perfect spot to watch the sun turn the sand from light gold to deep red as it dips into the Pacific.  Waves can be rough. Swimming is usually ok in summertime, particularly at that far right side of the beach, about a 10 minute walk from the beach park entrance.

You can also try these nearby beaches for swimming:

#3 Drive the Coastal Road to Halawa Valley.

This is the Molokai version of Maui’s “Road to Hana”.  Take all day to slowly drive eastbound for 28 miles on the scenic and historic Kamehameha V Highway. Stop at every fishpond and church to take a picture, and at every beach to jump in.  You’ll end up at breathtaking Halawa Valley, which could easily be a scene from Jurassic Park, with a couple waterfalls visible deep into the valley. Many of the best things to do in Molokai are along this road.  Here are the specific stops you’ll want to make:

I did Halawa Valley road trip with my family in a rental car.  If you’d rather leave the driving and finding all these spots to someone else, Molokai Outdoors has a full day island tour that hits all these spots and more.  They’ll pick you up at the airport, and show you all the best things to do in Molokai.

#4 Slow Down. You On Molokai Now.

People take time to enjoy life on Molokai. You should too. If the car in front of you stops to have a chat with the Auntie in the other lane for a minute…you wait. Honking your horn in impatience is an unpardonable sin on Molokai. Take time to talk to the people who live here. They know a lot more about their island than this guide or any other. Open yourself to new experiences.  Stroll around sleepy Kaunakakai, just window shopping and taking in island life.

#5 Paddleboard or Kayak to the Barrier Reef.

The south shore of Molokai is fringed by the longest barrier reef in the USA. What this means for a visitor is that there aren’t many nice beaches on the south side, but more mangroves, seaweed, and silty, shallow, rocky shoreline. HOWEVER, if you climb in a kayak, it’s just a short paddle out to crystal blue water with excellent visibility!  This is one of the best adventurous things to do in Molokai.

Molokai Outdoors is a locally owned tour company that can get you out to the best part of reef safely on a half-day kayaking tour. You don’t want to go kayaking around outside the reef if you don’t know the area. If the wind kicks in, you might find yourself swept out to Australia!

#6 Mail a Coconut to Someone at Post A Nut Molokai.

At the Hoolehua Post Office (96729), you can actually mail a real coconut.  The postmaster keeps a pile of ’em ready to go, along with sharpies so you can decorate it with messages and artwork. The coconuts are FREE, but postage runs about $14-$17 depending on the weight of the nut.  Only open weekdays.  Certainly one of the most unique things to do in Molokai.

#7 Shop at the Saturday Farmers Market

From 7am until noonish, local farmers and crafts people bring their wares to town.  Get there early for the best fruits and veggies.  I was surprised with all the cool stuff for sale here.  My family bought hand-carved necklaces, shirts, cookies, bubble tea, and shave ice.  It was fun just getting to talk to all the shop owners.

#8 Fly-by the Molokai Sea Cliffs, the tallest in the world.

Molokai’s north shore boasts magnificent 3800 foot tall cliffs dropping straight into the ocean.  Seeing them is one of the most dramatic things to do in Molokai island, and you won’t find taller sea cliffs anywhere else on earth!

They aren’t easy to get to.  You could make an arduous, treacherous multi-day hike to the top.  You could charter a boat to chug around Halawa Valley for a few hundred dollars.  Or, for the best view of all, you can fly right past them with Mokulele Air.  Mokulele has a one-hour scenic flight from Maui.  It swoops right by the cliffs and Kalaupapa peninsula, and then over the length of Molokai’s south shore coral reefs, finally dropping you back on Maui.  If you really want to see the cliffs, but don’t care about the Kalaupapa peninsula tour, this is the most economical option:

#9 Visit a Phallic Rock and gaze down on Kalaupapa at Pala’au State Park

Just a short and steep hike from the parking lot will reveal Kauleonanahoa, Molokai’s famous “Phallic Rock.” According to Hawaiian legends, if a woman goes to Kauleonanahoa with offerings and spends the night there, she will return home pregnant.  Your kids will giggle for the rest of the day if you choose to teach them the definition of the word “phallic”.  A little further along the trail is an overlook to Kalaupapa Peninsula, some 1700 feet below.  It’s the next best thing to flying in.

#10 Enjoy Samples at Purdy’s Macadamia Nut Farm

Mr. Purdy offers free tours of their orchard.  After the tour, you can sample the different ways the nuts are prepared, and then buy jars of your favorite.  My kids really enjoyed being handed a hammer and shown how to crack open the shells.    Tue–Fri 9:30am–3:30pm and Sat 10am–2pm,  Sun and holidays by appointment

#11 Listen to the Kanikapila at Coffees of Hawaii

Every Tuesday from 10am to 1pm and Friday from 3-6pm, a group of locals meet to play ukulele and sing Hawaiian and American classics. This 500 acre coffee plantation and coffee shop sells java that was grown, processed and packed right here.  Open Mon-Sat.

#12 Hike the Halawa Valley to Moaula Falls

You’ll need a guide, as it passes through private property. It takes 2.5 to 3 hours, so pack in enough water.

#13 Make your own Lei at Molokai Plumerias

At this Plumeria Orchard, you can get a tour and sew your own lei.  It takes about 50 of these yellow flowers to make one.  Open Mon-Fri, call first for an appointment 808-553-3391.

#14 Visit the Sorta Ghost Town of Maunaloa

Molokai Ranch once owned a third of the island, employed 120 people, and operated a golf course, a movie theater, a hotel, several restaurants, and a gas station all located in the upcountry town of Maunaloa.  After overwhelming protests by the community against their plans to develop coastal property, Molokai ranch shut down everything in 2008.  People still live in Maunaloa, and there is a working general store, but a drive through here will pass dozens of abandoned buildings, with their old signs still on them, a town forever frozen in 2008.

#15 Hike the Pepeopae Trail in Kamakou Preserve

Located high in the mountains of east side, Kamakou Preserve is a rain forest with more than 200 species of native plants. A metal and wood boardwalk takes you through a moss-covered rain forest and pristine mountain bog before arriving at a spectacular overlook of Pelekunu Valley. Hikes are arranged monthly.

#16 Get Up Close to a Humpback Whale.

Humpback whales visit in the winter, with peak density from January 15 to March 31. You can possibly see one or two as early as October, and as late as May. If you are going on a whale watch, February and March are perfect. Whale Watch Molokai has the best Molokai Boat Tours for $79.

#17 Catch a Fish Bigger Than You

The waters off Molokai have some of the best fishing in all of Hawaii. In fact, some big commercial boats from Oahu started coming all the way over to see what they could catch. (Spoiler: They caught a fist up aside their head from some Molokai fisherman) But no worries, you can go with Captain Mike and test your luck with Molokai Fishing.

#18 Play Golf on Molokai

You can play 9 Holes at Ironwood Hills Golf Course for under $40 bucks.  Yep. Certainly the best golf deal in the state.

 

Things to Do in Molokai – What you Need to Know Before You Go

 

Backpacker Daily Budget:

$68. With no hostels, or efficient public transportation; the best way to see Molokai on a backpacker budget is by travelling in a group of four, splitting camping fees and car rental. Four non-residents camping at Papohaku Beach Park Monday thru Thursday would be $10 per-person per-day. Splitting a rental car will run $22 per-person per-day, plus another $4 for gas. Get your breakfast and dinner cookout supplies from Friendly Market Molokai for $10, and have lunch in Kaunakakai for $10 at Molokai Burger. Three beers will run you $12 at Paddlers Inn. Entry to all the best County and State Parks on Molokai are free.

Best Time to Visit Molokai:

Anytime is a good time to visit. Molokai has warm weather year round. In my opinion, the best time is January through March for low humidity, and the chance to see whales. But it really depends on your plans:

What languages are spoken on Molokai?

Everyone speaks English cause Hawaii really is part of America. However, folks who grew up here will speak Hawaiian Pidgin to each other.  Some people also speak Hawaiian in Molokai.

Do you need a U.S. visa?

Americans obviously do not need any papers to come to the 50th state. Canadian visitors do not need a visa, and can stay for 182 days out of a year. AUS and UK visitors need to complete an Electronic System for Travel Authorization (ESTA) before arrival, and then get 90 days to visit.

How to Get to Molokai from Maui / Oahu:

 

The Ferry from Maui to Molokai…..is all gone.

Getting to Molokai is limited to arriving by air.  There is no ferry to Molokai. The long-running Maui to Molokai ferry “Island Princess” used to go from Lahaina, Maui, but all their ferries to Molokai shut down in October 2016.  PLEASE NOTE: The website for the ferry is still up on the web at Molokaiferry.com but I assure you, the Molokai ferry NO LONGER EXISTS.  They simply didn’t bother to take down the site.

There is no Lanai to Molokai ferry or a ferry to Oahu either.  So unless you have a friend with a boat or jet-ski, or you are one hell of a good swimmer, the only way to arrive is via air.

Flights to Molokai:

There are only three airlines to Molokai to choose from; Ohana by Hawaiian, Mokulele, and Makani Kai.

Molokai has two airports. The main airport is Molokai Airport (MKK) also known as Hoolehua.  Molokai Airport is located in the center of the island, 7 miles northwest of Kaunakakai, the largest town on Molokai.  All flights that serve Molokai Airport are turbo-prop aircraft. No jet planes land here.  The Mokulele and Makani Kai flights are on little 9-seater, single engine planes that fly at about 2500 feet.  Everyone gets a window seat, and the views of west Maui and the southern coast of Molokai are spectacular.    The total flight time from Kahului to Molokai-MKK is only 17 minutes!   There are no TSA security checks on these flights.  And no tickets, just assigned seats by your weight.   It’s all refreshingly casual.  A guy rolled up to the counter 20 minutes before the flight and got on.  You can take two carry-on bags of up to 15lbs and they do weigh them. Larger bags must be checked for $20 each way.

Oahu to Molokai Flights:

Maui to Molokai Flights:

Kalaupapa to Molokai flights:

 

A secondary airport serves the geographically isolated Kalaupapa peninsula. Kalaupapa Airport (LUP) has flights from two destinations:

Be aware there is NO POSSIBLE GROUND TRANSPORTATION from Kalaupapa peninsula to the rest of the island of Molokai. It is an isolated peninsula, surrounded by ocean on three sides, and thousand-foot cliffs on the other. The only way to reach the rest of the island is via steep hiking trail (which is currently closed).

How to Get Around Molokai:

You definitely want to rent a car on Molokai. There is a county bus, but it isn’t going to get you to the stunning nature sights.  Roads are in good shape, and with only three main roads, you can’t really get lost. Just have enough gas when leaving Kaunakakai, because gas stations are nonexistent outside the town.  And be prepared for the gas prices…

Car Rental on Molokai:  There are three decent options for car rental, and one terrible one.  Be aware these local car rental shops only have a handful of cars.  It is entirely possible for every car on the island to be rented out.  Book far in advance.

If you are really adventurous, and um…cheap, you could attempt to get around solely by the free MEO Bus.  This single bus goes back and forth around the island.

There is no Uber or Lyft on Molokai.

There are a couple of taxi services.  Arrange rides a day in advance to ensure pick-up.  Airport to Hotel Molokai should run $35.

Stay Connected:

The only place to buy a SIM card on Molokai is the Verizon store next to Molokai Pizza Cafe.  Its best to get this sorted on Maui or Oahu before you arrive.  Cell phone coverage is surprisingly good for such a rural island.  I was able to get coverage way out on Papohaku Beach, and in several spots out on the east side too.

Places to Stay on Molokai:

 

Camping on Molokai:

There are three campgrounds on Molokai of varying appeal:

One Ali’i Beach Park

Centrally located on the south shore at Mile 3.3 of Kamehameha V Highway, just three miles from Kaunakakai. This Maui County Park has a big grass field with shaded spots for camping and picnic tables. Restrooms, showers, and drinking water are available. It’s convenient for access to Kaunakakai restaurants, but the ocean is too shallow and muddy for swimming here, and you can hear every car that drives by all night long. You can stay a maximum of four nights. The non-Hawaii resident fee is $10 per adult per night Mon-Thur, and $20 per adult per night on Fri-Sat-Sun and Holiday nights. To stay here you’ll have to fill out a Permit application and mail it in the Parks Department ahead of time. NOT RECOMMENDED.

Papohaku Beach Park

At the far west end of the island lies gorgeous three-mile long Papohaku Beach. At this Maui County Park, you can set up your tent in the shade of a kiawe tree. You will hear nothing but waves crashing at night. The ocean is plenty deep for swimming here, but the water can get really rough. Be careful. Restrooms and showers are available. To get here, take Maunaloa Highway (460) West to mile marker 15, then turn onto Kaluakoi Road. Follow Kaluakoi Road for 7 miles to Papohaku Beach Park. You can stay a maximum of four nights. The non-Hawaii resident fee is $10 per adult per night Mon-Thur, and $20 per adult per night on Fri-Sat-Sun and holiday nights. To stay here you’ll have to fill out a Permit application and mail it in the Parks Department ahead of time.   When we stayed here there was only one other tent in the entire campground.  It is a wonderful place to camp! HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!

Pala’au State Park

This state park sits high up on a cliff overlooking the Kalaupapa peninsula. With lots of shade under ironwood tress, and a higher elevation, this is the coolest spot to camp on a hot summer day. A short trail leads to a phallic stone thought to enhance fertility. Restrooms and picnic tables available, but no showers or drinking water. To get here, follow the Kalae Highway (470) past the village of Kualapuu to almost the end. Look for pavilion on left followed by camping area 1/4 mile further on the right. If you reach the lookout parking lot, you went just a little too far. You can stay a maximum of 5 nights, and then must wait 30 days before your next stay. The non-Hawaii resident fee is $18 per campsite, per night for up to six people. You can easily get a camping permit online through the Division of State Parks. This is a nice place to camp! RECOMMENDED.

Hotels on Molokai:

This is an easy section to write. There is only ONE HOTEL on all of Molokai.

Molokai Vacation Properties:

There are several oceanfront condos.  Wavecrest Molokai and Molokai Shores are two of the biggest.  Your best bet is either Booking.com or AirBnB for a decent Molokai vacation rental.

There are no Molokai resorts.  Molokai doesn’t do fancy.  If you are looking for resorts on Molokai, you’re in the wrong place.



Booking.com

Best Restaurants in Molokai:

Nothing fancy is being served on Molokai, but lots of good home cooking. Only a couple of restaurants serve alcohol, and many places are closed on Sundays. Some places are cash only. Expect “relaxed” service most everywhere.  As one menu states “If you’re in a hurry, you’re on the wrong island.”

In Kualapuu (Upcountry by the airport):

Kualapu’u Cookhouse – “Molokai’s Eating Landmark” If you’re starving when you get off the plane, or need a bite before leaving the island, this is your spot. Located down the street from the airport, the Cookhouse serves huge portions of everything. Prime rib, ono, Ahi, Mahi-Mahi, and crab-stuffed shrimp wrapped in bacon (seriously!) are popular entrees. Big outdoor picnic tables encourage meeting people. Live music on Thursdays. BYOB. Open 7am to 8pm Tues – Sat, 9am to 2pm Sunday, 7am to 2pm Monday. Cash only.

Best Choices in Kaunakakai:

Paddlers Inn Restaurant and Bar (serves alcohol) Certainly the most popular restaurant on the island. People like the pupus, burgers, salads, poke bowls, fresh fish, and sandwiches. Big portions. This is also the nightlife spot of Molokai. Open 10am to 9pm for dining, bar open late. Happy Hour 2-5pm. Closed Sunday.

Molokai Burger has great burgers, but gets even higher marks for their fried chicken. The only drive-thru “fast” food on Molokai. Good breakfasts too. Open Mon-Sat 7am to 9pm.

Molokai Pizza Café is the place for pizza on island.  It’s a modern, sit-down restaurant with A/C and a Pac-Man arcade game.  We enjoyed some pizza and salad and several games of Pac-Man.

Kamoi Snack-N-Go is THE place for ice cream on island. They serve 30 flavors of Dave’s Hawaiian Ice Cream, with some local Hawaiian flavors you won’t find anywhere else.

Kanemitsu Bakery is by far the most historic business on Molokai. This family-owned bakery has been selling “hot bread” out of a side window in a back alley since the 1930s. Every night but Monday from 730pm til 11pm, you can walk up to the window, request the filling you want – strawberry, blueberry, butter, cream cheese, or cinnamon, and get hot bread to go for $8 to $10. Tell anyone from Maui you went to Molokai, and they’ll ask if you brought them back Kanemitsu bread. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner too.

Ono Fish & Shrimp food truck gets the nod for best fish tacos on the island. Also fish n chips, mahi, shrimp. Open only on Tue, Wed, Thur, Fri 1030am to 2pm.

A Taste of Molokai – Poke Truck – served excellent fresh poke at reasonable prices.  We had multiple poke bowls.

Hula Bean Café – is the only real coffee shop on island.  I enjoyed a smooth mocha frappe here.  They also make sandwiches.

Hiro’s Ohana Grill at Hotel Molokai (serves alcohol) is the only true fine-dining on island.

East Side:

Mana’e Goods and Grindz – If you are way out on the East Side and get hungry, look no further. Breakfast, burgers, plate lunch, fried chicken, it’s all good at this little grab’n’go take-out. I recommend the “Paniolo Burger”  with bacon and barbeque sauce.  Open 8am to 3:30pm daily, except closed Wednesdays.

Groceries:

Kaunakakai has two decent sized grocery stores, Friendly Market Center and Misaki’s GroceryMolokai Wines and Spirits has a surprisingly good selection of all kinds of beer and wine.  Expect prices in line with the expense of having everything shipped halfway across the Pacific.  Outside of Kaunakakai, your options are limited.  In Maunaloa you’ll find the Maunaloa General Store, in Kaulapu’u lies the Kaulapu’u Market, and way out east, Manae Goods and Grindz has a small convenience store.

Molokai Nightlife:

When I told some Maui local boys that I was looking for a good bar on Molokai, their response was “Why? No can get buss up in Kihei?” Meaning, Molokai is small, tight-knit, and wary of haole (white) outsiders, so going into a bar is a good way to get beat up.   This isn’t true at all anymore though.  For one thing, there is really only one bar.  But don’t expect much excitement in the wee hours on Molokai. Most everything closes up early.

Get a Guidebook:

I am unimpressed by the available print and eBook guidebooks to Molokai.  Things change, restaurants come and go, and no print guidebook is going to beat the up-to-date information I’ve researched and listed here.  But, there is one Molokai travel guide that I do recommend:

Franko’s Molokai Guide Waterproof Map is an invaluable resource for the off-grid adventurer.  If you plan to bike and hike or even drive off-road around Molokai, this map will “fill in the blanks” that may show up as empty spaces on Google Maps.

What to Pack:

You can get the basics you need on Molokai, but not at Amazon or Walmart prices.  It’s better to bring with you quality gear at mainland prices.  You also don’t want to be spending your limited vacation time searching for the right stuff.  Here is what I use, and recommend you bring:

Snorkel, Mask and Fins – The Cressi Palau Short Fins provide a mask with a great fit for all faces, durable quality, and great fins that aren’t so long you fall on your face trying to exit the water.  The best snorkeling package value.  You’ll need this to see all the fishies on the barrier reef.

Travel Towel – The PackTowl Personal Microfiber towel is the best travel towel there is.  It’s comfortable, quick-drying, lightweight, and packs down to the size of a paperback book.  Comes in four sizes and eleven colors.  I have the largest size “Beach” at 36 x 59 inches in Blueberry.  Get this towel, and avoid having to buy a crappy convenience store “ALOHA” towel for $29.95 that you’ll never use again.

Reef Safe Sunscreen – Effective January 1, 2021 the State of Hawaii has banned all non reef-safe sunscreens from sale in the islands.  Why not get ahead of the curve, and bring this excellent sunscreen with you?  Thinksport SPF 50 rubs in easily and feels good on your skin.  And you’re saving our coral reefs.

Sunhat – It’s pretty sunny on the south shores of Molokai, and you might want a decent hat to go with that reef-safe sunscreen.  These Hemlock Hat Company wide brimmed straw hats are what all the cool kids are wearing at the beach these days.  I have the “Bandit” color.

While these items are of particular importance to make the most of your visit to Molokai, it would be worth checking out my Ultimate Travel Packing List that covers everything you might need for your trip.

Is Molokai Safe?

Yes, very safe.  The level of safety is comparable to a small farming town in the American Midwest.  Everyone knows everyone.  Crime is low.  It’s hard to steal a car when you got nowhere to drive it to!  Be respectful of locals, and they’ll be respectful of you.

 

THANKS FOR READING

Full Disclosure: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. This means that if you buy anything, I’ll earn a small commission at no cost to you. I only link to stuff I use, love, and recommend. I don’t accept bribes to endorse garbage. Your clicks help keep this site alive.

THANKS FOR YOUR SUPPORT!

If you enjoyed “18 Amazing Things To Do In Molokai”, please share it with your friends.  Sharing is Caring.

Exit mobile version